Backpacking in Lake Superior Provincial Park

Notes by Nancy Gaarenstroom
September 1997

Friday, September 5, 1997

The annual backpacking trip continues with yet another destination and a new backpacker. This year we will be going to Lake Superior Provincial Park with Nancy Gaarenstroom, Linda Runyon, Tamara Ulicny, and Dolores Maledon, a first time backpacker. Feeling unorganized is also an annual event with this year being no different. As we were packing for ourselves the three of us threw in all kind of extra gear that Dolores might need. We also planned a route with a stop at the car in the middle so I threw in all kinds of extras thinking I might want them when we get back to the car. When Dad and Dolores picked me up this afternoon we loaded lots of stuff in their car, went to the Ulicny's and transferred it to their Tahoe, and Tamara, Dolores, and I headed off to Linda's in Sterling before five o'clock. I got to see both the kids arrive home from school but not Steve after work. We arrived in Sterling by seven, which was before Linda arrived home from work. She came soon after with chicken dinners from Iva's. We spread all of our gear in her living room and began packing. Dolores could not believe we could fit it all in four backpacks, but by midnight that is exactly what we had done. Actually our packs were quite a bit lighter than usual because we could leave half the food in the car to be picked up midway in our trip.

Saturday, September 6, 1997

We were up and on the road by ten. After one fruitless attempt to buy Beanie Babies at the Ace Hardware/Hallmark in West Branch, we headed for Canada. We had a late lunch at Gino's in the Canadian Soo, stopped at the Wood Carver and Agawa Indian Crafts store, and were in Wawa by six. We stayed at the Algoma Motel, the same motel the guys use on their way north for the fishing trip. Tamara came out from checking in with a remote control and directions to go down to the Beaver Motel and turn right. You have to go around the block to get to our room in the back of the building. We skipped dinner and drank wine and ate muffins and dill pickle potato chips in the room. Dolores cut Linda's hair. We watched some of Princess Di's funeral being replayed.

Sunday, September 7, 1997

We were up at six o'clock, all took showers, ate breakfast at the Viking, packed up, registered at the park office, drove to the trailhead at Gargantua and were on the trail by 10:35am. We headed north, passed the first three campsites very quickly, and were at the sites at Gargantua Bay in 45 minutes. The trail at this point is an old road, therefore quite easy, mostly through the woods with a lot of wildflowers. We had a lunch stop at Gargantua River, our first big challenge. There were boards nailed to a fallen tree to begin the crossing, but when they ran out it was quite a scramble over more fallen trees and large rocks. Tamara led the way and had little trouble with her long legs. The rest of us did fine even if it was less gracefully. We had Dolores take her pack off and pass it over first since she seemed nervous. We ate our usual lunch fare: beef jerky, pita and cashew butter sandwiches, cashews, almonds, dried cherries, pineapple and mango. We left about two and had another stretch with some challenging steep up and down with lots of tree roots, but made it to our campsite at Warp Bay in about 45 minutes. We set up our tents and met some neighbors canoeing in. Our immediate neighbor was a rather strange lone hiker that we initially saw laying in the grass and presumed dead. When Dolores and Linda went out bathing and he never budged, Tamara and I were sure he was dead. But when Dolores called to us, he woke up and immediately put on his glasses. Later he went in the water telling us we were "his inspiration." We enjoyed a cup of tea while drying out sitting in the sun on the beach. Our weather was ideal for hiking and enjoying the water. The bay was very shallow for a long way and quite warm because of it. We ate cheese and crackers on the beach, drank wine (Napa Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon) and were entertained by eight loons out in the bay. We also ate our dinner of beef stroganoff on the beach. We cleaned up, hung food on the best branches we could find, had a small campfire, looked at stars, and went to bed about ten. Dolores and I shared a tent and Tamara and Linda did. We all read for just a few minutes, then went to sleep.

Monday, September 8, 1997

Everyone was up around seven. These sites all have an open air toilet but with a toilet seat and quite nice. It was very breezy, cool and overcast. The water for oatmeal was very slow to boil. Then Linda cleaned the stove and the water for tea boiled much quicker. Tamara brought Awake black tea that has been prayed upon by a certified tea shaman. I immediately certified Tamara now to be known as Tamara S. Ulicny, CTS (certified tea shaman). Things get carried away and Linda ends up not only our MD but CWLT (certified Whisper Lite technician). Nancy is the CHPJ (certified horologist, photographer, and journalist). Dolores not only has been carrying the water filter but has taken on the job of filtering the drinking water. She is now CWFT (certified water filtration technician). All this silliness and it is still only morning. We move slowly but do pack up for a day hike and leave at almost noon. By this time the sky has cleared and it is another ideal day for hiking. We went further north on the trail stopping for lunch at a scenic overlook at the north end of Indian Harbor. As usual we admired all the mosses, lichens, mushrooms and wildflowers. We saw thimbleberries, blueberries, and raspberries, but only one or two fruits to taste. There were also berries on the Clintonia, Bunchberry, and Baneberry. After more than an hour of eating and just lazing on the rocks in the sun, we continue to the end of the trail to the campsites at Chalfonte Cove. We found a nice beach with lots of driftwood. We had fun poking around in it and wishing we could take some home to put in our gardens. We left there at about four and hiked back to our campsite in one hour and ten minutes. It is amazing the time you can make when you don't stop at every Clintonia, Bunchberry, and piece of moss. The trail was not difficult. We saw evidence of moose, both tracks and droppings, but had no actual moose sightings. Back at our site we all went in the bay and bathed again. It was a more natural experience since we now have no neighbors in any of the other sites. We did some laundry. The bay was flat and calm yesterday and full of waves today. Enjoyed our hors d'oevres in the sun on the beach again watching the waves crash in. Cooked our Polynesian chicken dinner tonight and ate by the campfire. We had a beautiful fire. Dessert was chocolate bars and we also had some hot chocolate even though it was not cold tonight. We went to bed about ten o'clock and Dolores and I didn't even attempt to read.

Tuesday, September 9, 1997

We were up about 7:00am again. It was overcast and kind of a misty rain with no promise of clearing. We ate and got ready for another day hike, this time to Devil's Chair, on a new trail not even marked on our map yet. We depart at our usual ten o'clock. As we predicted the sky doesn't clear, but instead rain comes down harder. But we found the trail just past our set of campsites and hike to the sites at Devil's Chair. They are all set at the end of little inlets and very pretty. Once again there is lots of driftwood. There was also a nice lookout over Devil's Chair which is actually a small island off shore. We found some ripe thimbleberries and a really luscious patch of red raspberries. Unfortunately some insect found Dolores and bit or stung her near her waist. Tamara was stung on her leg but got little sympathy because Dolores' looked so much worse. It continued to rain so we headed back to our site. We found water had leaked into our tent because the stakes gave in the sand allowing the rain fly to touch the tent. It wasn't too bad inside but still raining quite steadily. Linda and Tamara's tent had a little water inside too. We stood by the campfire site and ate some lunch while debating further plans. We decided to pack up and head toward the car and if it cleared up set up camp at one of the sites near there. We left at 2:30pm, stopped for one picture at a sign and otherwise high tailed it back our boots squishing most of the way. Dolores worried about coming over the bridge again, but we took a different route and all did fine. We were back at the Gargantua Bay cutoff to the campsites by 4:25pm and the car by 5:00pm. It really is a moderate to easy trail. The big excitement was once we reached the car. While trying to stuff wet backpacks in the car we realized there were mice in there. They must have misunderstood when we said that we wanted to see a moose. Tamara saw one go out a door, but at least one other ran up to the front of the car. I drove back to Wawa while everyone else was on mouse alert. The food left in the car seems to be okay. We went back to the Algoma Motel and all took hot showers and spread wet stuff all over our room. We had the usual wine and cheese and ordered a pizza. When we went to pick it up we also got a couple of mouse traps. We loaded them with cashew butter and left them in the car overnight. Dolores' bite is very red and indurated. Dr. Runyon gave her some cream and antihistamine. We all read for a bit before going to bed. It poured most of the night.

Wednesday, September 10, 1997

Slept in till about eight. Munched on some breakfast food in the room, then went to park headquarters to get money back because we cut our stay short. There was still no sign of the weather clearing up so we had decided to day hike today and then head on home. We did the loop at Orphan Lake starting at about one. Linda felt like something was biting her in the behind. Tamara worried that a bug had gotten "panty-locked" when Linda used the outhouse before beginning to hike. It rained a little bit during the day but not too bad. Once again I was amazed at how wonderful my boots and socks were. Even though the boots did not dry out my feet were very comfortable. We headed south of the lake first and had a scenic view of Orphan Lake and also Lake Superior. We stopped for lunch at the beach on Lake Superior about 3:00pm. Instead of sand this beach is all smooth polished stones. It was really beautiful. The northern loop back goes past the rapids and waterfall on the Baldhead River, then Orphan Lake again. Dolores was stung again. This time she saw the bee and did not react as severely leading us to believe the first was a spider bite. It was beginning to look infected so Linda now has her on antibiotics. We were back to the car by 5:25pm and drove to the Agawa Rock Trail. We hiked down to the Lake Superior shore and Linda, Tamara and I went out on the rocks to see the Indian pictographs. I can see why we were warned to not even try it if the waves were coming up on the rock. One of my boots got wet and I had a very treacherous return trip because of it slipping. Once out by the rock paintings it is difficult to enjoy them because you are so close. But I am glad we did it. Left there about 6:30pm and headed for the Soo making a not so quick stop at the Agawa Indian Crafts store again. We stayed the night at the Ramada Inn we had originally planned to be at on Saturday night. There is still no sign of the weather clearing up so we feel we made the right decision. It is amazing how much the trees have changed colors in the couple days we have been up here. It is beautiful in the rain, so with a little sun would be truly spectacular. At the Ramada we enjoyed the pool, whirlpool, and sauna then went to our room for a late dinner of wine, cheese, crackers, and chocolate. We turned our room into a spa. Dolores gave Linda a back massage. Tamar, Dolores, and I mudpacked our faces and the four of us all took advantage of Tamara's soothing foot soak, pumice cream, and shea butter. My feet have not felt so soft in months. We all read for awhile and went to bed about midnight. Once again it rained during the night.

Thursday, September 11, 1997

Slept in until about eight again. We really putzed around the room, reading, showering, eating a breakfast of chocolate bars and dill pickle potato chips. Finally we packed up and headed for home. We stopped at the duty free store where we hit a Beanie Baby bonanza. The sales clerks had Beanie Babies tucked in odd little spots all over the store and laughed at us as we ran around checking them out. We all bought some. At customs we declared purchasing souvenirs, some liquor, and Beanie Babies. The agent laughed and waved us on. We stopped for lunch at the Antlers Restaurant in the Soo. The stuffed creatures there were definitely not by Ty, Inc. The food was very good. We got to Linda's in Sterling about 5:15pm and found no new carpeting, much to Linda's disappointment. Her parents had been there and had only recently left. We set up wet tents downstairs and laundered wet clothes. We ate more backpacking snacks and Linda made some hot, spicy chili. Loretta had left Beanie Babies she and Nicki had gotten in Kentucky and we spent hours going through them. Later Tamara mentioned some magnets she had bought and Dolores said, "Magnet? Which Beanie is Magnet?" Another late night. To bed after midnight.

Friday, September 12, 1997

Got up to another overcast day. We still have not seen the sun since Monday. We packed up and left in two cars to head on back home. We met up at Birch Run for some power shopping and lunch. Tamara and I stayed a little longer than Linda and Dolores. Tamara dropped me off at about 7:30pm. It was disappointing to have to end our backpacking so early, but we still had a great time and have high hopes for next year. It can't rain on us three years in a row?

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