SAINT MALO, FRANCE

April 2002

 

Friday, April 19, 2002

Mom and Dad arrived late this afternoon to stay with Dale and Amy. We visited and discussed schedules awhile, then Steve and I headed to the airport. We figured out the new terminal, had a short wait at the gate, then boarding began. NW50 to Paris left a little late, but the flight was otherwise uneventful. We had a meal with wine, then slept. I woke up just as they were serving a breakfast before landing.

Saturday, April 20, 2002

Found our way through Charles DeGaulle Airport to the train station meeting several other conferees (Vince Crist, Aleksander Jablonski, Don Baer) on the way. We boarded the TGV and I slept all the way to Rennes, where we changed trains. The second train to Saint Malo was only an hour and I managed to stay awake. We walked the few minutes from the train station to the Hotel d’Univers just inside the walled city (Intra Muros). Our room was 421, which is actually on the fifth floor to us. There was a tiny elevator retrofitted inside the staircase that could hold me and my suitcase. Steve walked up. We have a view of rooftops with pigeons and seagulls, but the room is large by European standards and lots of storage space. We unpacked and rested a bit, then Steve and I walked around the city on the wall. It was sunny and warm and took 20-25 minutes to walk. We met others from the conference and nine of us (Don, Vince, Bob and Gillian Wild, Peter and Gillian Sherwood, Jim and Pat Castle, and Marie Abel) went to dinner together. Steve had Cancale oysters, mackeral in mustard sauce, and crème brulee. I had a lovely salad with cheese and toast, trois poissons in phyllo, and pommes cidre and cassis sorbet. Some four hours later we finished dinner and headed back, getting to bed after midnight.

Sunday, April 21, 2002

Slept well again, making up for the lack of sleep at home before we left. Woke up just before the alarm went off. We walked around inside the city streets this morning, got croissants and orange juice and ate outside in the sun. It is another very pleasant day. At ten o’clock we boarded a bus at St. Vincent Square just outside the city wall and headed off for a 1.5 hour ride to Mont Saint Michel. The abbey was built over a period of many centuries on the rocky outcropping, a granite massif accessible only during low tide. We spent much of our time with Don Baer climbing up this rock, walking through the abbey (even as a mass was going on), and stopping at a seaside restaurant for gallettes with champignons, fromage, jambon, et oeuf (the local specialty buckwheat crepes) and Pomme Cidre (the local specialty hard apple cider). Then Steve and I walked around the Mont and then found a nice spot to sit in the shade awhile. We had glace before getting on the bus for the return ride. We went through the city of Cancale famous for its oysters and saw many oyster farms. When we returned to Saint Malo at six o’clock there were a lot of meeting attendees in town. Steve and I napped before dinner then took a walk before going to bed.

 

Monday, April 22, 2002

Just got up in time for Steve to go down to breakfast and get to his meeting at 8:30. The Workshop is titled "XPS: From Spectra to Results – Toward an Expert System." I met up with Gillian Wild and Ann Sykes and walked with them around the wall and then on the promenade along the beach to the east of the city. We stopped for coffee (Coke for me) at one of the hotels overlooking the beach. We walked on further then down on the beach to walk back. We had sandwiches, jambon et emmenthal and I had cidre again. At 2:00 we met in the lobby and Madame Langeron (Annick) led an excursion to Dinard by ferry. As we walked through the walled city, she pointed out the main shopping street and some particularly interesting shops, as well as the post office and a grocery store in the basement of a building around the corner from our hotel. This meeting has an abundance of spouses attending, seventeen I think. At no time did we all get together. Today there were nine of us on the trip. We boarded the ferry for the ten-minute ride to Dinard. Again it was a lovely, warm, sunny day. I was quite comfortable in short sleeves. At the ferry dock and around the corner is a very warm microclimate because of all the rocks and it is sheltered by the wind. There were palm trees and mimosa. I am enamored with shrubs called ceanothus or California lilac. They are just covered with blue purple lilac-like small flowers. I will check when I get home if they are available anywhere. We stopped by the beach on the other side of the peninsula and had glace. We walked back to the ferry through town window shopping and even making a few purchases. I found a book store and purchased Harry Potter in French for Amy. We caught the ferry back then split up for the walk back across the city and more shopping. I walked with Susan, my friend from St. Pierre de Chartreuse and Hungary, who is now Peter Weightman’s wife. We went to several shoe stores. When I got back Steve was still in the poster session. So I just caught up with him just before dinner. After dinner we walked around the wall with Don Baer. It was still very warm and pleasant this evening.

Tuesday, April 23, 2002

Set an earlier alarm and got up at 6:30. We walked around a bit, and had our usual breakfast of coffee, orange juice, fruit, croissants, wonderful bread with ham and cheese or jelly. We walked around the wall again before Steve had to head off to his meeting. They break out into individual groups today. Steve’s Group B still meets in the hotel. At 9:30 I met Gillian Wild, Ann, and Katalina Danka (from Debrecen, Hungary) in the lobby. Gillian and Bob brought their car over on the ferry (with a tandem bike on top for a post-meeting excursion). She offered to drive us to Dinan. We first crossed the barrage across the river where the tides are used to generate power. Just across Gillian pulled into a lot and we were able to see the road lift up and a sailboat come through the lock. Lobster fisherman were setting off in a dinghy to their fishing boat with a couple of traps. Gillian did a wonderful job getting us to Dinan driving on the right side of the road (pun intended) when she is used to the left. We walked through this lovely medieval town with half-timber wood construction like Saint Malo before being destroyed by fire. One street full of artisans and craft shops goes steeply down to the River Rennes. The streets seem like pedestrian-only walkways but even on the narrowest streets a car will occasionally come by. The only thing that deters them is steps. We walked back up the same street until we reached the wall. We went on top of it and followed it around a bit, getting nice views of some lovely backyards below. Sat outside at a café and had coffee and a jar of water. Gillian then drove us across the river to return via a different route, stopping off at Dol de Bretagne first. It is the site of a very old Cathedral interesting especially because of its painted walls. A wooden sculpture remains from the fourteenth century. We walked around the town and saw children playing basketball on recess. Then we headed for the coastline, driving through Cancale and its oyster farms again. Gillian went out on a small peninsula that had a fabulous view of the coast. In the middle of Cancale I asked Gillian to stop so I could photograph the statues of women washing oysters in their baskets. Heading back to Saint Malo we drove through Rotheneuf and looked for Les Roches Sculptes. They were definitely off the beaten path, but well worth the effort to find them. They were chiseled into the rocks at seaside over a period of 25 years by the Abbe Fuore at the end of the 19th century. I think we all expected more religious themes, but found whimsical carvings, pirates, monsters, and many faces. I’m sure they were a good excuse to spend 25 years in a beautiful spot.! In typical French fashion there were no handrails or designated paths to stay on. It was then a short trip to Saint Malo, but difficult to find a parking spot. The walled city had been closed to car traffic due to a bicycle race and cars were parked everywhere outside. Fortunately Ann saw a spot on the other side of the road we came in on, but it took us awhile to turn around and get there. At seven we had a reception across from the hotel at the Hotel de Ville (city hall) located in the old fort. I was nearly run down by a bicyclist warming up for the race. The Lord Mayor did not make it but we were welcomed by the lovely Deputy Mayor with a brief address, then drinks and snacks. Back to the hotel for dinner made more difficult by the actual bicycle race going on. I am not sure of the exact route, but know that they had to do it 52 times. After another delicious meal we took our usual walk then to bed.

Wednesday, April 24, 2002

Up early again for our usual walk and breakfast. One minute before the meeting started Steve found out he was now chairman of his group. Susan, Gillian, Ann, and I headed off to the tourist office. Susan then returned to the hotel, but the rest of us went to the post office so that I could buy stamps, then continued on to Saint Servant out on the peninsula with Tour Solidor (Cape-Horn Captains Museum) and Fort de la Cite d’Aleth. It was a very foggy, misty morning and we could barely see Dinard across the bay, but it was very lovely. It was very picturesque with many boats left high and dry on the beach by the low tide. We watched fishermen unload their shellfish into a truck and seagulls fight over crab remains. Armaments around the fort were severely damaged during the war. We learned later that tunnels below the fort are now used for mushroom farming. We walked back to the city and stopped at a creperie for a lunch of gallettes (mine was oignons et crème fraiche) and a dessert crepe with chocolate. When we went back outside the fog had cleared and it was a clear blue sky and sun. Stopped at a couple of shops on our way back to the hotel. Rested in my room until 2:30 and the tour was to begin. Steve was just finishing lunch. We met others outside and were broken into two groups for the afternoon tour. It began at the Hotel de Ville, where we got to view some non-public areas and had some great views from atop the wall there. Interestingly the fort was built with the highest towers toward the city. That was because Saint Malo was a refuge for all criminals and most of the danger lay within the city. We saw Chateaubriand’s birthplace and heard one version of why his name became attached to meat. The romantic poet and statesman, it is said, had an ulcer and under doctor’s orders was to eat a large piece of rarely cooked meat everyday. Daily a servant went to the butcher to buy a large piece of meat for Chateaubriand. Eventually his request was shortened to just Chateaubriand. We ended our tour at St. Vincent Cathedral which was begun in the 12th century. It was carefully restored after its partial destruction and finished when the spire was completed in 1987. It is unusual because you descend to the altar and front of the church. It was also surprising to me to find the altar a very modern piece of sculpture. We were free to return on our own. Steve and I explored a few streets we had not yet walked down and stopped to do some souvenir shopping. We had a drink at our hotel upon our return. Steve had a beer fortified with whiskey and I had my usual cidre. The dinner banquet tonight was at the Restaurant St. Pierre. We walked there going the long way around the wall. The seating was quite crowded for our group, but the company entertaining, the waitstaff very pleasant, and the food wonderful. Another four-hour meal and then we walked back the same route and again got to bed after midnight.

Thursday, April 25, 2002

The meetings were scheduled to begin a little later this morning because of the banquet running late last night, so we slept in a little. Steve and I walked and ate breakfast, then he headed off to his meeting and I chatted with some other companions in the dining room for awhile. Then Gillian, Ann, and I headed across the street to the museum at the Hotel de Ville. At first we nearly walked in one door and then out the other, but we backtracked some and found other stairways and rooms to explore. We went to the highest point on the roof and saw the conferees below having their break outdoors. The museum covered the history of the region, the corsairs such as Surcouf, writers Chateaubriand and Lamennais, explorers including Cartier, Duguay-Trouin, Maupertuis, and Charcot. Then when we thought we were really done and taking an exit we found yet another two stories of exhibits. It was a wonderful museum and even though we only crossed the street to get there we got plenty of exercise going up and down stairs. We finished up just in time to meet Madame and Monsieur Langeron for a walk to Grand Bé. It was overcast and somewhat chilly, but low tide and a nice walk. Chateaubriand was a powerful enough politician to be able to have his burial wishes carried out. He wished to be interred standing up, with nothing between him and the sea so that he could continue to carry on his conversation with the sea. I was surprised when we reached his burial site to find absolutely no marking or designation of it at all. Part of the group decided to head back then, but the Langerons, Danielle, Gillian, Ann, and I walked on to the next sometimes-island, Petit Bé, with a fort on it. The rocks between the two were covered with mussels, limpets, and periwinkles. We couldn’t tarry there because the tide was beginning to come in and we needed to get back. We went to lunch at the oldest creperie and had the best gallettes yet. We also had more cidre and dessert crepes. The food and conversation were both enjoyable. I found out the sculptor who did the altar at St. Vincent Cathedral here, Etienne, is the son of painter Arcobas from St. Pierre de Chartreuse. Gillian missed the tour yesterday so we went back to the cathedral today and learned more about Etienne. Then Annick took us to a nice shop for pottery and to one where I could buy buckwheat flour to make my own gallettes. It was a lovely day. Madame Langeron calls me Madame Michigan. She told me about her trip to Michigan and visiting Henry Ford Village and Museum. Before dinner this evening there was a group photo, then a very special meal, beginning with seafood – oysters (I ate two!), shrimps, and periwinkles that we learned to eat with a winkle pick (essentially an upholstery pin). Main course was lamb with zucchini and tomatoes. Dessert was a cake soaked in liqueur. Our second dessert was then birthday cake for Bob Wild. He was quite surprised. Steve got a demo of Wolfgang’s work then went upstairs to practice his talk for tomorrow. I went to the bar with the Wilds, the Castles, and others. Bob bought me one of their specialty apple liqueur drinks. I am glad I tried it but won’t be needing another. Mostly I chatted with Gillian and Pat.

Friday, April 26, 2002

Up early and out to see high tide. This is the time of the month with the highest tides, 10-13 meters. I was surprised to see how few people were around, but though the tide was high it was not spectacular. There were no crashing waves and no sunshine. After breakfast Ann and I set off for the market in Saint Servant. The outdoor area was just being set up, but had fabric, toys, evening gowns, and purses. The indoor area housed vegetables, fruits, flowers, cheese, eggs, butter, meat, fish, and shellfish. I bought cheese and salmon spread. We stopped at a candy store on the way back and I bought sardine-shaped chocolates, gallettes, and crepes. Another stop at the grocery store for more candy and cidre. After we dropped off our purchases Ann and I went to the little aquarium in the wall near our hotel. It was old but had some interesting things. There were fish from Africa, Asia, and South America, as well as one tank labeled from Lake Erie. It contained some small spotted sturgeon-like fish and lots and lots of guppies! We bought sandwiches and found our husbands to find a spot to eat. We got drenched in a downpour just as the four of us were boarding an afternoon bus to Dinan. The ride was long enough that we dried out before getting there, but the windows were so fogged that the views were not terrific. The weather was a little cool but quite pleasant in Dinan. Ann and I retraced some of our steps from our previous trip. We walked down to the river again. Found some new sights like an overlook view of the river and a different church. We actually went inside the cathedral we had seen the other day as well. It was bright and had lovely glass windows. We stopped at a café for a drink, then headed back to catch our bus to Saint Malo window shopping on the way. Waiting for the bus was rather cold and we had barely gotten on when another downpour hit. The bus was crowded with school children heading home for the weekend. It was awhile before we could even sit together. Steve napped in the room until it was time to check out high tide. This time it was great conditions – sun and a strong wind blowing in from the sea. The waves were really crashing. I tried to take pictures, but it was difficult to capture the high waves. We walked all along the sea getting soaked only once. The construction zone we had been detouring around all week was actually opened up. There were lots of sightseers on the ramparts. We walked back through town and stopped for dinner. Steve had mussels again with pomme frites. I had soup de Poisson and salade. We were both too full for dessert.

Saturday, April 27, 2002

Up early and over to the train station to begin our long journey home. Seventeen hours later we are back at our house.

 

 

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