Charley dropped Linda Runyon off at 7:00 am. We picked up Elizabeth Kolasa. Diane Dossin, Linda Crandall, and Denise Dunn will be travelling in Diane’s van. We called to Diane’s and found out Linda had just arrived there and Denise had not yet arrived. We made plans to meet at the Cracker Barrel south of Toledo, stopped back at my house for my forgotten watch, and then headed off. We arrived at the Cracker Barrel about five minutes after the others. We had breakfast. I gave the other van one of our family radios so we could stay in touch and then we took off again. We continued on to Pigeon Forge stopping only to switch drivers once and once more to get gas. Linda Runyon took a turn driving even though she is not feeling well. She is not sure what is wrong. Diane, however, drove all the way. We arrived in Pigeon Forge about 6:30 pm. We left Linda in the room to rest, while the rest of us foraged for food. Traffic in Pigeon Forge was horrendous. We found The Old Mill Restaurant, but were not willing to wait to eat there. This is the weekend of the "Rod Run" and the town is overrun with hotrods and other old cars. U.S.441 looks like Woodward Avenue. We tried one more restaurant, then gave up and had dinner at a Dairy Queen. Back at the Hampton Inn, Linda R, Elizabeth, and I went to the pool and hot tub, then to bed.

Linda Runyon and I were up early, went to breakfast, and then read a few minutes in the lobby. Elizabeth came down, didn’t see us right away, and was worried we had left her there. Morning is not her best time. She works afternoons because she does better later in the day. Unfortunately this trip does not fit into that schedule, so we’ll be making her get up early. After everyone had eaten and packed up again, we went to Pigeon Forge Pottery and around the corner to Twisted Vessels to do some shopping. This area has been built up into such a tourist area and changed so much, yet the pottery place is still the same as I remember visiting here as a child. There was no one working because it was Sunday, but I asked about and found the seconds room in the back and found a couple of things to buy there. Almost everyone else bought black bears. We took the by-pass around Gatlinburg and headed to the Smoky Mountains National Park. Linda R drove because I experienced my second ever migraine headache. It was a little scary because my first migraine was only last Tuesday. Fortunately Linda had some medication and it worked for me. We stopped at the Sugarlands Visitor Center inside the park and bought postcards, maps and a trail guide book. We went to our campsite and found it would be too crowded with two tents and two cars, but fortunately were able to add an additional site right next door. The campground was not very full. We were right on the river with the facilities conveniently located across the street. Unfortunately the facilities did not include showers, but I was able to wash my hair in the sink. We lunched on cherries, nuts, and beef jerky, then put up the tents. Putting up our tent was a problem. The rainfly did not want to cooperate and cover the tent. If I didn’t have a migraine it would have given me one. We did the best we could and prayed for dry weather. About 4:00 pm we drove to the Little River Trail head. We first hiked the Little River Trail, where Denise was excited to spot a bear cub down an embankment and on the other side of the river. She felt secure enough to enjoy it even though I am sure Mama Bear was nearby. We also saw several deer that remained along the side of the trail very unconcerned about us. Diane has become Ms. Data on this trip. Her new watch is also a thermometer and altimeter. It is nice to be able to quantify sometimes and then again sometimes it is best to not know. Today we hiked up to 2775’ above sea level. From the Little River Trail we took the Cucumber Gap Trail, then the Jakes Creek Trail back to the cars. (Total 5 miles and 600’ elevation change) We got such a late start on our hike that it was quite dark by the time we were cooking dinner back at the campsite. We had crackers and cheese, bread and paté, tri-colored rotini with fresh sauteed onion and roasted garlic and onion sauce, dark chocolate, and a 1998 Rosemount Shiraz and 1996 St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel. Everything tasted great. Even though I brought firewood from home, it was too warm and we were too tired for a fire. We reorganized the van so Denise could sleep in it and went to bed. Read a little before going to sleep.

I didn’t sleep well, but didn’t get up until 7:30 am. We boiled water for coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and oatmeal. We also had shortbread and dried fruit. The van was rearranged again and packed up for a day hike to Chimney Tops. Denise chose to stay at the campsite and oil paint down by the river. The rest of us drove to Sugarlands again to mail postcards and then on to the trail head. The trail is only two miles long but straight up. The sign at the trailhead said it was an average of 2-3 hours for the hike. We did it in 5.5 hours. We crossed several bridges over a picturesque river, but had no great views until at the very top. Linda and Linda made an unsuccessful attempt to scramble over boulders to reach the summit. Linda R. needed assistance to get back down. Then we followed Diane up another route that required getting on all fours and getting really dirty. Elizabeth chose to wait below. I was concerned about getting back down once we got up there. At the top Diane ran into a retired Ford lawyer, Dave, and spent some time bringing him up to date on things at Ford. We lunched on beef jerky, cashews, cherries, and pretzels. We drank a lot of water. The downhill return trip was easier aerobically, but tough on the knees. (Total 4 miles and 1300’ elevation change) We were back to the parking lot by 4:45 pm and back at the campground in time for Linda, Linda, and I to take a refreshing dip in the river and still have dinner before dark. I was amazed at how much Denise had accomplished on her painting. We had crackers and gouda, white chili, and a 1997 DeLoach Zinfandel and more ’98 Rosemount Shiraz. Dessert tonight was white chocolate. We had a campfire tonight even though it is still warm. No one lasted very long however. We were all in bed by 9:45 pm.

Diane and Linda C. were up at 7:00 am and started water to boil for breakfast. Our whole tent was up soon after. Could Elizabeth be getting used to this early rising? We had another warm and lovely day. Today’s excursion was to Cade’s Cove, where we hiked 2.5 miles to Abrams Falls. This time Denise joined us and Elizabeth stayed at the campsite. We left the campsite at 10:00 am for a one-hour drive to Cade’s Cove on very windy roads. We hiked to the falls in 65 minutes. It is only about 250’ elevation change, but up and down several times. The falls were a popular spot and very lovely. We found Diane’s friend, Dave Coffman, and his grandson there when we arrived. After a half hour of eating lunch and picture taking (Denise put your hat back on) we did the return hike in the same amount of time. (Total 5 miles and about 300’ elevation change) We continued by car the rest of the way around the Cade’s Cove loop stopping at the Visitor Center and mill. The traffic slowed to view deer and came to a halt to see two (maybe three) bears up a tree. We went to a camp store and bought spaghetti to use with our remaining sauce for dinner. Denise and I splurged on ice cream. It was another hour to drive back to Elkmont. Elizabeth was waiting to greet us. She enjoyed her day relaxing there. When we went in the river to clean up tonight little fish were nibbling on our feet. We started dinner and packing for our trek to LeConte Lodge tomorrow. With our spaghetti we had bread and paté and Simi Cabernet Sauvignon (’96) and Berenger Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (’95). After dishes and cleaning up Diane discovered her van did not start. Jumper cables were borrowed and my van used to start it. She then drove it to make sure the battery was well charged. We all finished our packing and were in bed by ten.

We did get up early, in the dark, before seven. Denise started water to boil and we all just set about to packing. It is still dry and pleasant. Good for packing up the tents. We had a bite to eat, put moleskin on our feet, and left for the trailhead by 8:30 am. Denise, Elizabeth, and I were dropped off at Alum Cave Bluff Trailhead. We started on up the trail while the others dropped off my van at Newfound Gap and shuttled back. It is not too far to drive and will allow us to take a different route down if we choose. We had notes from Ed Wright’s website explaining the trail. He’s hiked it over 1000 times. Before Arch Rock, Diane, Linda, and Linda caught up with us. We hiked together through Arch Rock, a very easy hike with stairs and handrail. Shortly after we split up again and Denise, Diane, and I went on ahead. It is a cool day, 54º-58ºF, and quite pleasant to hike. The weather is typical of the Smokies, misty, foggy, and limited visibility. The Alum trail is very beautiful. I especially enjoy the misty, foggy scenes. We arrived at Alum Cave Bluffs at 11:35 am and stopped for lunch. From Inspiration Point to the Bluffs was very steep and our lunch spot there was steep (and dusty) as well. Linda, Linda, and Elizabeth arrived about half an hour later. We visited with them a few minutes but were chilled by waves of fog rolling in, so we took off again. We continued up at a slow steady pace with others passing us in both directions. Just past the tree trunk at the three-mile mark we met Graham Cooper, a congenial lone hiker heading down. He’s done the trip many times over the last 55 years. He teased us about being Yankees, but while we were chatting we discovered his grandfather was a McNutt from Ohio, so we may be cousins! We were asking if Ed Wright was on the trail and shortly after he came down on his 1215^th trip. We took pictures and signed his trip log and may be on his web site. Everyone is quite fascinated with what Denise is toting on her backpack (two canvases that Curt made a carrier for). Actually we are all the talk of the trail. We have backpacks when everyone else has just a day pack. To us carrying a very light and not nearly full backpack is such a refreshing change from the usual. The hike was so enjoyable that Bust @ss Rock was renamed Happy Hiney by Denise. It is great to have her on the trip again. The Grassy Slide area was very different and picturesque – a very steep grassy hillside with many gentian and other wildflowers. Just when we thought we’d run out of steam it leveled off and we were at LeConte Lodge. It was about 3:00 pm. We checked in. Diane, Denise and I took Cabin 5. It is a small room with an upper and lower double-bed-size bunk and an extra twin bed. There is a kerosene heater and lamp. We have a bucket and kettle to fetch water and a key to the flush toilets. There is also an outhouse that is available for anyone to use, but you must be a registered guest to use the flush toilets. There is water available from a spigot near the office and you can get warm water from the dining hall. There is a large porch off the office lined with rocking chairs. We went down to the dining hall for coffee and hot chocolate. They were wonderful and we had many refills. Just below the dining room seven llamas were munching and getting loaded for their return trip. Llamas are used to bring supplies up, because they are so easy on the trail. One man accompanies them along the Rainbow Falls Trail. They started down at four. Linda, Linda, and Elizabeth arrived about 4:30 pm and were shown to Cabin 6. They got drinks before the kitchen closed to prepare dinner. At 6:00 pm they rang the bell to announce dinner. There was a mad rush for the dining hall, by our group and others. We had stuffed ourselves by 6:30 pm. Dinner was vegetable soup, cornbread, beef, mashed potatoes, beans, baked apples, peaches, and chocolate chip cookies. The wine was the Shiraz Zinfandel we carried up. Once fully stuffed, Linda, Linda, Diane and I hiked the 0.2 mile to Cliff Tops to see the sunset. It was very beautiful. We were there with many folks who’d been there many years and never had seen a scenic sunset, so we feel very fortunate. Many of them were outraged that our artist did not come. One woman threatened to beat her with a stick.. From the cabin side you can see the lights of Gatlinburg and it is very pretty too. Denise and Diane read while I wrote, but all lights were out by 9:00 pm. We did have the kerosene heater lit to warm the cabin, but it was so smelly that we turned it off before going to sleep. When they lit it they explained to Denise how to turn it off. She didn’t get it. I went to ask how and returned to realize I didn’t get it either. Finally Diane went to ask, and they picked up a chair to demonstrate and we finally understood. I am sure there is much talk about the whacko women in Cabins 5 and 6.

I didn’t sleep well at all. We were warned that the cabins were overrun with mice, but I could verify that there was little or no mouse activity in Cabin 5, because I was awake a good part of the night. I didn’t make it to Myrtle Point for sunrise though. Neither did anyone else from our group. Linda and Linda did do a short early morning hike. Bill knocked on our door at 7:45 am to make sure we were up for 8:00 am breakfast. When the bell did ring at 8:00 Denise bolted down the stairs to be first in line for coffee. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of pancakes, eggs, Canadian bacon, and biscuits. Elizabeth joined us a little late. After the dining hall cleared we gathered around the stove for awhile. We are the only group staying for a second night, so everyone else took off to pack up and leave. Denise took off to try to find someplace out of the wind to paint. Linda, Linda, Diane, and I did hike to High Top and Myrtle Point. At High Top there is a large rock cairn, an attempt to increase the height of the mountain. We added a rock to it. It is another beautiful day – windy and cool, but sunny. We had a low of 33º last night. We shared the trail with three deer. We heard that if deer are here then the bears aren’t. I don’t know if I believe it. The view from Myrtle Point is quite spectacular. We were back in time for Linda R. and I to wash our hair (at the pump) before lunch. Diane did it later with warm water from the kitchen. We were the only ones at lunch. Once again we ate very well – alphabet soup, warm homemade bread, chicken salad, cheese, peanut butter and jelly, chocolate chip cookies, and banana nut bread right out of the oven. This afternoon was reserved for sitting in the rockers on the porch in the sun and reading, except Denise painted some more. She has lots of company as everyone enjoys seeing her progress. In our cabin Denise was showing me the scene of her next painting, a still life of the lamp in the window and we were both amazed to see deer just outside. I picked up my camera and took a picture, so maybe Denise can put them in the painting as well. Soon after Linda C. came after them with her video camera. Three day hikers lucked out and were able to spend the night when another group had no shows. They joined us for dinner. While everyone else had the same menu as last night, since it was our second night we had soup, chicken and dumplings, cornbread, corn, carrots, pears, apples, and chocolate chip cookies. Once again we enjoyed wine with dinner. After dinner we again hiked to Cliff Top for our second spectacular sunset. I think last night’s was better but am not complaining. It is a long 0.2 mile up there right after dinner. This evening our group joined others in the main office for some reading and socializing. Linda R. took the opportunity to nap in the absence of mice. Cabin 6 had many late night visitors running around last night. There is a ledge around the room that they literally use as a track to run around. We either lucked out in Cabin 5 or the mice find the fumes from the kerosene heater as noxious as we did. We had the heater lit again tonight to warm up the cabin before bed. It was still smelly, but at least now we know how to turn it off and maybe it will keep the mice away. Lights out at ten. I fell asleep quickly with the help of a sleeping pill from Linda R.

I was up at 6:30 am, went to the toilets, and then hiked to Myrtle Point for sunrise with Linda and Linda. We were a minute late, but enjoyed it. There were a few others there. We enjoyed a leisurely walk back. Breakfast was a repeat of yesterday’s. Then we had to go pack up. At 9:25 am Linda R, Denise, and Elizabeth started down the trail. Linda C. went to dump out their water bucket only to find a dead mouse in it. Linda C, Diane, and I visited with each other and various staff members. We left about an hour after the others for a very pleasant walk down the mountain. We decided to go down the same Alum Cave Trail we hiked up. Today is sunny and bright and it will be much different views than on Wednesday. We passed a few hikers going up and lodge employees William and Katie passed us on their way down. We met up with the other three hikers at the Bluffs for lunch. All six of us hiked together until after Arch Rock. Linda C, Diane, and I then went on ahead, getting to the car at 2:30 pm. We drove to Newfound Gap to pick up my van. Took time to use the toilets there, step on the Appalachian Trail, and step into North Carolina. When we returned to Alum Trailhead, Elizabeth, Denise, and Linda were waiting for us, having finished at 2:50 pm. An employee from the Lodge was in the parking lot, so Linda R. was able to return the restroom key she hiked down with. She didn’t even know she had it until all the way down. We all hopped in cars and headed to Pigeon Forge via the Gatlinburg bypass. We were still seeing lots of old cars. We found out when getting gas that last weekend’s Rod Run was the little show precursor to this weekend’s Grand Rod Run. Our plans to go to our cabin at Timber Tops, clean up, and return to town for dinner changed. We were near the Old Mill Restaurant and found it not crowded at all at 4:00 pm. So we cleaned up in the restroom and got a table for dinner. We had a great meal but no wine, as we are in a dry county. They could serve us our own wine, but no one had the energy to go down to the car to get it. It was an adventure finding Timber Tops because I screwed up, realized it, then waited to see if Diane followed me. She didn’t and was waiting at the office when we got there. It was a windy road up there and I was grateful to be doing it in daylight. Our cabin is a luxurious three-bedroom, three-bathroom cabin with a large hot-water heater. We all took warm showers then sat on the deck enjoying our third lovely sunset in a row. Linda R, Elizabeth, and I tried out the hot tub. It was very delightful and relaxing. Read awhile before going to bed and getting a good night’s sleep.

Almost everyone got up about seven. We munched on our breakfast food. Denise and I bravely went down to Pigeon Forge. This weekend’s car event is even bigger than last weekend’s. We went to a western wear store and were just amazed at the selection. Denise did some Christmas shopping. We made fun of the ugly boots we saw. We drove past the outlet malls without even stopping. Neither of us had the energy to go in and look around. We went to Food Fair and bought food for lunch and dinner. Headed back to our cabin "The Eagle’s Nest" and fixed lunch. Then Denise, Diane, and I spent a couple hours in the hot tub talking and reading. Denise painted on her still life some more. Others took naps and generally just relaxed. It was a very pleasant way to spend our last day before heading home. With our steak, baked potatoes, and salad for dinner we had a ’97 Raymond Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and a ’95 Rosemount Mountain Blue Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon. Diane made everyone write down a "Top Ten List" from our trip. In the evening there was more hot tubbing and reading. Went to bed with an alarm set for tomorrow we leave for home.

Drove 1,303 miles

Hiked 27.6 miles with 4900’ elevation change