This information courtesy of Phillipe Siuberski (siuberski@hotmail.com)
Some tips and experiences based on my 4 weeks trip in August 96:
Havana:
* Swimming: the Hotel Sevilla charged $ 5 for an access to their
swimming pool (with no towels provided). Expensive but better place than
the pool of the Deauville. By the way, at $ 45 for a single room, the
Deauville is too expensive and gloomy for a really pleasant stay.
* Burgers: if after a while you*re fed up with traditional rice and
beans and pizzas, you might want to go for a burger. Then, avoid the El
Rapido snacks. Their Hot Dogs are simply tasteless. Rather go for a
burger at Burgil (for instance in Miramar or at the junction of Italia
and Neptuna). Cheeseburgers are OK.
* Chinese: for a better choice of exotic food, go to the little
Chinatown (between Reina and Zanja). You can find good simple Chinese
food for something between 25 and 40 pesos Cubano (less than $ 2). There
is also a fruit market.
* Live Salsa-Rock: here is a good tip to meet young people, students of
the University and listen to live music. There is live action every
Thursday afternoon at the Teatro Nacional, junction of Calle 39 and
Paseo in Plaza de la Revolucion (tel. 79-6011, 79-3558). It starts at 2
pm and is a good bargain at 3 pesos cubano. If tickets are no longer
avaible, try to pay US$ 3, they would probably find a way to let you in.
* Plaza de la Catedral: go at 6.30 pm (in the summer): the light is nice
and the place is almost empty. A far better experience than going in at
mid-day,...
* Baseball: unfortunately, there are no baseball matches in the summer.
The season usually starts in October or November. For the latest news,
check with baseball fans in front of Hotel Ingleterra on the Parque
Central.
* Playas del Este: I just have one advice concerning those little
seaside resorts: don*t go! There is nothing to do, and there are a lot
of tourists (a majority of Italians and Germans) looking for "fresh
flesh". You don*t feel like in a big city with a lot to do and neither
in a real rural atmosphere. To be avoided, in my opinion.
Pinar del Rio province
* Soroa: a good idea is to go refresh yourself in the waterfalls. It*s a
bit like in a Tarzan movie: you swim just under the falls. Entrance is
one or two dollars.
You can spend the night -or just stop for a few hour- in the charming
Hotel La Moka (aka Las Terrazas). When driving from La Havana on the
carreta central, turn right at km 51.
* Vinales: everybody knows the viewpoint from Hotel Los Jasmines. It is
even better when you look at the beautiful valley from inside the
swimming pool. If you order a drink, they will let you in without any
problem.
* Cueva del Indio: I have found this attraction rather unattractive.
It*s just a cave, you have to pay, to queue and to listen to the
musicians they put in the cave -you just feel stupid to be among those
organized tours tourists.
* Vinales: this is one of my preferred location in Cuba: the village is
very relaxed and there is a very nice and almost secret botanical
garden. This is how to find it: coming from Los Jasmines road by car,
you enter the village of Vinales. Turn right at the junction with the
main road. Follow the main street until the end of the village, then
turn left, direction of the Cueva del Indio and park. Just 50 meters
from the cross road, you will find the entrance of the garden. The gate
is decorated with fruits and stickers from various *adventurous* tour
operators such as *Sport-Adventure* . Nevertheless, there are not a lot
of people there. Knock the door and ask the old black lady to show you
here garden. She will explain you everything about the fruits and plants
and even might tell you stories about the Santeria and other miracles
that happened in the region. She is also a collector of empty foreign
cigarettes packs. You will be happy to give her some dollars.
Central Cuba
* Remedios: Probably my favorite city in Central Cuba, Remedios is in
some aspect as interesting as Trinidad. And, as there are almost no
tourists, you will not be harassed. Try to go there on a Saturday night.
Start with the mass in probably the most beautiful church of the Island.
Even non-Catholic will enjoy the songs and the friendshipness of people.
After the mass, everybody goes on the main square. Everybody is well
dress and turn around the square while music are played from loud
speakers. That means that every two minutes, they cross the way of
somebody they know. Around the square, there are a couple of discos
where you will probably be the only non-Cuban. There are also plenty
opportunities to make good photographs in the colonial streets. The
Cabarein beach, some 10 km away, is rather unpleasant, while very
popular with Remedians.
The East
* Baracoa: this town is not easy to reach. The regular flight from
Santiago is difficult to catch (always full), and there is only one a
week. I have been said that there is a daily flight from Santiago to
Baracoa but it is only Cezna used by the post office. Nevertheless, it
is said to be possible to take one of the 4 or 5 seats available on
those flight. Go to the airport as early as 7 am and try to get a seat.
If you*re lucky, you will then enjoy a wonderful trip. Personally, I had
to go to Baracoa by car. The Taxi driver offered me to go there for 150
dollars. It was too expensive for me, so he accepted to drive me there
for half the price, but in his own car, having taken off his uniform. It
is still rather expensive and other travelers might find cheaper ways to
go to Baracoa. From there to Havana, a flight is 75 USD one way.
Baracoa in itself is very nice, very different from the other parts of
the country. The Casa de la Trova is a nice little daily attraction.
There are also small discos around the parque central and reachable
beaches. The nicest hotel is El Castillo (tel 214-2103) but it is always
full. So, it is worth booking a long time in advance. The restaurant
there is very nice. The pool there is another big attraction of the
hotel. It is the right place to treat yourself after a hard journey.
I have found a small casa particular on the local Malecon, 50 meters
from the Hotel La Rusa. Nothing luxurious but good location. In Baracoa,
the carnival is held around the 20th of August. A lot of people gather
there for the occasion.
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