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Places to Visit, Things to Do
(Continued)
Pinar del Rio
I had minimal hassles with touts in Pinar del Rio, other than being mobbed on
arrival at the bus station. Once I chose a tout, the rest scattered, and I
was pretty much left alone for the remainder of my sojourn. Several have
reported nasty experiences when arriving via rental car, however, with people
hollering something about a flat tire in hopes of slowing you down or
surrounding the car so that it is virtually stopped from driving further, so
they can sell you their services. (me)
We arranged horseback riding at Hotel Aguas Claras. Unfortunately, our
booking was lost in the 24-hour shift hand-over, so we had to wait an extra
day. We were glad we did: the riding was great fun. (a)
Playa Bailen
The hotel is only open in the summer, contrary to what Lonely Planet says.
In any case, they’ll overcharge you there, so stay in any house in the small
village for $6-11 a night (negotiate!). Bring your own food and water and be
prepared for no electricity. The crocodile farm is nearby. People are
helpful, but it’s hard to get away if you don’t have a car. (t)
Playa Giron
Playa Giron is a quiet village without attractions. The discotheque is always
closed because there are practically no tourists and the beaches are small,
ugly (The wall in front of the hotel beach is horrible!) and not too clean.
So, for those not interested in military museums it's a place to skip. (o)
Remedios
Remedios is very nice and being a national monument, they are taking care
of it. It is very colorful with restored buildings. (u)
Santa Clara
Santa Clara and Sancti Spiritus do not have very big historical centers, but
have nice pedestrian zones with unbelievable amount of shops and goods. It seems that the inland cities are richer
than the rest although we have not found any reason why. (y)
Santiago de Cuba
We rented a car ($80 for a day), hired a guide (we paid her well--$30--and
could probably have gotten away with less), and drove to Santiago for the
day. We went everywhere! She took us on a tour of a fort, coffee planation, a
school in the mountains and the highest point in Santiago. We drove all over
the city, with no problems. (c)
Santiago is also a beautiful city. A walk from the seaside on Aguilera, all
the way to Avenida Raul Pujol, gives a great impression of the city in all
its aspects. At the end, on Calle 10 and Raul Pujol you'll find a beautiful
authentic foodmarket. It's nice to enjoy a cocktail on top of Hotel Casa
Grande (we preferred the Ron Collins, the Mujita, the Pina Collada and the
Frozen Daquiri), and view the sunset, but a more cultural, or even bohemian,
atmosphere you'll find at the Casa de la Trova and the Casa des Tradiciones
(both on Heredia, one block from Parque Cespedes). Santiago enjoys a couple
of Discotheques, but we preferred the open-air concert garden at Aguilera (we
don't remember the name but it is also close to Parque Cespedes; so it really
is quite hard to avoid the hassles!). (d)
Visit the museo of carnaval in Santiago on Wednesday around 3:00 there is a
dance group that shows Afro-Cuban dance, very nice to see, good group also .
You also help them with a small tip you can give, but it is free whether you
give or not. (p)
We traveled last year for 5 days with a taxi we took in Santiago de Cuba.
We did this instead of a rental car which was expensive and did not appeal at
all. Our driver’s Lada was not appealing at first, but was very well taken
care of and far cheaper than a rental car (in November 1998 we paid $25 for
the car and driver). Furthermore, our driver was a very good guide and our
luggage was always safe. The name of this taxi privado (a cuenta propista) is
Guillermo Aguilera Diez, Ave. Cespedes #651, apto 2, Reparto Sueno. Tel:
226-33-117. Normally his car is parked next to the hotel and the Cathedral
and he takes tourists for a day or half day excursions in the area. (s)
Santiago de Cuba, well, everybody says it is great and you have to be
there at least 10 days to enjoy. The truth is, we could stand it only for two
nights. We did not like the city at all. The trip to the fortress was nice.
Santiago is industrial, with no typical bars. Casa de la Trova was no fun at
all with no place for dancing. I’m sorry, for us, thumbs down. (u)
While visiting Santiago, you will enjoy a day trip to El Morro and Cayo
Granma. Early in the morning, go to
the southwest corner of Parque Cespedes, alongside the cathedral, and you can
catch a peso truck most of the way to El Morro, the ancient fort at the mouth
of the harbor. When leaving there,
take the path to your left, towards the water, and follow it down past the
beach (yes, you can swim here) and around to the ferry pier for Cayo Granma,
about a kilometer’s walk. Make
friends while waiting for the ferry (1 peso or less) and you may wind up with
a tour of the local school and a tour around the island. There is a nice restaurant on the west
side where you can have a beer and watch the boats go by, talking with the locals. After you take the ferry back across to
the highway, there should be a bus or a taxi there to take you back to town.
(x)
Santiago de Cuba, well, everybody says it is great and you have to be
there at least for 10 days to enjoy.
The truth is we could stand it only for two nights. We did not like the city at all. The trip to the fortress was nice. Santiago is industrial, with no typical
bars. Casa de la Trova was no fun at
all with no place for dancing. I’m
sorry, for us, thumbs down. (y)
Go on the road to Parque Baconao, which is quite a nice drive. You’ll find some cactus, and a cactus
garden with some impressive species along the coastal road. There is an aquarium a bit further, but I
must say they had hardly any fish over there. They also do shows with dolphins, but as we were the only
visitors there was no show. But they
let me swim with the dolphins. I had
the time of my life with these two dolphins who jumped around and over me and
pushed me on my feet through the basin.
They did all kinds of tricks, it was great to be near them and to pet
them. I think they do this more often
as there is a lack of tourists because most people don’t go further than
visiting the Gran Piedra. (z)
Sierra Maestra Mountains
The Sierra Maestra Mountains seem to be closed for hikers traveling by
themselves. I had planned to go from the north to the south via Pico
Turquino, but was told by the police that the whole area was closed the next
year. The only place you can visit is the Commandancia de la Plata. That is
worth a visit, but be aware that the public transportation stops 7 km from
Villa Santo Domingo. The reason: the last 7 km are like black slopes and can
only be forced by a modern car with a lot of horse power and good brakes or
better a 4-wheel drive. Occasionally there is a truck to the next town, but I
had to wait 3 days to get back. (b)
Trekking is a challenge. To go independent into the Sierra Maestra is quite
difficult, not because of the mountains, more because of police who always
find you to kick you out. I tried it three times at different and not
touristy places and three times they kicked me out because I had no permit.
Twice even before I entered the first rock and the third time when I was the
first day in the mountains.(g)
The Pico Turquino trail is not closed, but you do require a permit from
Havana (the Institute of Scientific Research, I think; the major guidebooks
will point you to the right place). After walking most of the road from
Bartolomeo Maso to Santo Domingo with our packs we decided we weren't in good
enough shape to hike El Turquino, so we didn't press the point, but another
group did manage, with a lot of arguing, to convince the local officials to
sell them permits for $12.50 each. The Villa Santo Domingo is a nice restful
spot for a couple of days ($26/double, possibility of camping nearby), and if
you aren't up for the Turquino trek you can still get guides for short local
hikes. The Rio Yara offers great cooling-down opportunities on those hot
Oriente days. (m)
For $20 I chartered a Lada (particular car) to go to the Parque Nacional
Sierra Maestra but the driver didn't want to go up the mountain so we stopped
when the road turned steeper. I travelled the next 5 km on the back seat of a
motorcycle, whose driver received part of the trip price (negotiated between
both drivers). From the Villa Santo Domingo, we drove another km and then we
had to walk the last 5 km up to the Alto del Naranjo as the road was too
steep for the moto (East German 125cc motorcycle). I was lucky that the
motorcycle driver had been a mountain guide and that he volunteered to walk
with me to the Comandancia de La Plata, as a guide is mandatory and no
motorised transportation was available. The guides at Villa Santo Domingo
will only let you in the park if you can complete the return trip before 4.00
pm. The return trip back to Bayamo was the same (walk, motorcycle and the
Lada which was waiting for me). Tiring but exciting. The views up the Alto
are breathtaking and the wild oranges are delicious. (r)
Soroa
There are no houses here, only a hotel, which is quite
nice, has nice beds, and costs $34 for a double, including breakfast. (t)
Rainforest at its best. We went swimming under a huge
waterfall close to the Villa Soroa—quite an experience. Nice view from the
Bar Castillo de la Nubes. Don’t forget your mosquito repellent. (w)
Trinidad
This was one of my worst city experiences in Cuba, with touts, mostly
children, crawling all over you and asking for gifts and money. But since
early 1998 several people have reported that the begging has virtually
disappeared, a result of a police crackdown on such activities. It’s also a
very small town, and I didn’t personally understand the reason for the big
tourist draw. It’s got cobblestone streets and old buildings and a couple
museums, but what Cuban city doesn’t have most of that? (me)
Motel Las Cuevas is near some caves that have been made into a disco. It’s a
pretty wild concept, and worth a wander through. (me)
Trinidad has mostly one-way streets, and the signs cannot be read in the
dark. Parking looked difficult, so we just parked in the lot at the Motel Las
Cuevas and strolled through town. Walking around was great. We saw virtually
no begging. Perhaps there’s been a crackdown: when we walked around the Plaza
Mayor, there were always 2-4 cops patrolling. The drive from Trinidad through
Topes de Collantes to Manicaragua is quite easy to find and is beautiful.
There’s a mirador a few kilometers south of Topes de Collantes where you can
buy glasses of rum-spiked sugar cane juice and enjoy the birds flying around.
(a)
Trinidad was disappointing and it is also unclear to me what makes it that
touristic. Is this city confused with the island Trinidad? The museums in
Trinidad were poor and there is no guide to tour you around if you decide to
enter such a museum. It is possible to make a trip on horses to some small
cascades (and possible to swim). The price of such a horse-ride varies from
$10 to $20 for two persons (and accompanying Cubans of course). The police
behave very arrogantly and aggressively towards Cubans. One day there was a
special action and ordinary Cubans were picked up from the street and brought
to the police station. Upon arrival of the police car Cubans fled in all
directions!!! That night all Cuban girls who were present in the disco 'Las
Cuevas' were taken in under the pretense that they were prostitutes if they
were able to pay the entrance price. Cubans were not allowed to speak to
foreigners. Cubans told me that the reason for this was that they could tell
negative and bad things about Cuba and its leaders. (i)
Due to shortage of time and after much hesitation, I booked a one-day trip to
Trinidad by plane from Havana. Due to laziness of this particular tour guide,
we missed the plane and the tour was cancelled. (This is not common and the
tour organizer refunded us and compensated us by a complimentary day tour,
which I spent in Varadero). Fearing that an entire valuable day was being
wasted, I decided to arrange the trip by myself. The same day, after finding
out that there wouldn't be any buses to Trinidad, I bought a plane ticket for
$50 (bus fare by Viazul $25 one way). The ride was OK, and the bird's view of
Varadero and the mountains was spectacular. I left my luggage at the casa
particular I was staying at, and my host said she would arrange my
accommodation in Trinidad and that somebody dressed in black would wait for
me at the airport. Indeed, when I arrived a guy wearing all black was waiting
for me. He took me to a taxi from 1921 and we drove to his home ($15/night).
This arrangement was far better than what awaited my (much wealthier) fellow
passengers in the plane. That trip saved that day! Suddenly even my
impressions of a run-down shabby Havana became rosy and nice. I woke up early
the next day and strolled the streets of Trinidad, watching people, kids
going to school, the town waking up. No tourist buses. Happy kids eagerly
wanting me to take their pictures. No hassle I could not endure. (I cannot
recall seeing one single beggar.) It was absolutely beautiful. That afternoon
I took the bus back to Havana (when I arrived a taxi from 1950s was waiting
for me to take me back to the casa particular, is it luxury or what?). (q)
I visited the main spots of the area in a day by renting a scooter at the
“cremeria” Las Begonias, Maceo at Bolivar . I paid $20 by returning the
scooter early in the afternoon ($25 typically for a full day including petrol
& insurance) so I could save the taxi rides to the different places. The scooter
is not fit for the mountain. They tell you not to go to the Topes de
Collantes although I think the scooter should make the trip. It's possible to
drive with a passenger and share the expense. That way I visited at my pace
the Valle de los Ingenios and I went to Ancon (through Casilda and La Boca).
The next day a friend and I rented a particular taxi ($20) to go to the Topes
de Collantes where we walked to the waterfalls. (r)
Trinidad is wonderful, the Ancon beach is ok, but the best part is going
there on a bike via La Boca. The waterfall is just a tourist trap and you
even have to pay an entrance fee ($4)! I’ve seen much nicer waterfalls for
free. Go here is you are interested in post-Stalinist buildings. (u)
The Museo Romantico is closed for renovations (which may take years…). The
huge grotto La Cueva Maravillosa, near the Horizontes Hotel Las Cuevas near
Plaza Santa Ana is really worth a visit, though hours and guides are
unpredictable. Snorkelling is very good right off the beach at the right of
the Horizontes Costa Sur (the coral barrier is only 300 feet from the shore)
on Ancon Peninsula. Watch out for the sea urchins, though. (v)
A very pretty city and well worth visiting. Unfortunately too many bus
tourists during daytime and subsequently a high proportion of touts, both
getting on your nerves at times. Good view from the tower of the Museo
Historico Municipal. We went horseback riding, which wasn’t very exciting and
rather disorganized. Playa Ancon is an excellent beach and the reef just off
the coast (the sailing boat at Hotel Ancon takes you there and charges $5
including the snorkeling gear if you pretend to be a guest of the hotel) is
just fantastic. Playa la Boca on the other hand is a very popular holiday
resort for Cubans and it’s not all that easy to say why. It’s not clean as
such, but you’re strictly among locals and it’s easy to get a casa particular
at the seaside. (w)
Trinidad is wonderful. The Ancon
beach is ok, but the best part is going there on a bike via La Boca. The waterfall is just a tourist trap and
you even have to pay a $4 entrance fee.
I’ve seen much nicer waterfalls for free. Go on this trip if you are interested in post-Stalinist
buildings. (y)
In the casa de la trova in Trinidad I heard the best traditional Cuban
music. The band was really very
good. Also I must say that I had the
best salsa dancing partner ever in Cuba.
It was an old man, but really a very good dancer. I have my best salsa dancing memories from
Trinidad. Very contrary to all the
other Cuban men who always say that they are dance teachers, but in fact
mostly are lousy dancers and just try to cling to your body. We also went horseback riding in the
mountains. This was really a great
experience. The horseman, Elvis,
guided us through the mountains, a care on top of the mountain, banana
plantations and the waterfalls (we didn’t have to pay). He went away for a moment and came
galloping back with mangoes and other fruit I hadn’t seen. One advice: check your horse before you go
off. We negotiated a bargain for a
6-hour ride compared to the official announcements. (z)
Veradero
Stay the hell out of Varadero, unless you like artificial staying and
screaming lagerlouts. The locals you encounter will love you for not going
there! (b)
Varadero was rather nice and empty. I had no problem avoiding tourists or any
people asking for money or clothes. Varadero is very long and it isn't very
hard to find a quiet spot for relaxing. (h)
As for the Hotel Disco scene, in Veradero, I tried them all! The Rumba has
the most tourist action and is always packed. However, I dfound La Bamba the
best. It draws a good crowd as well, but there is a better mix of tourists
and Cubans, that is, not all tourists. They also have models, males and
females do a quick Cuban fashion show break each night, bathing suits, beach
wear, etc. It's quite the experience, disco, salsa, models, a couple onstage
contests involvig tourists, very entertaining. After discovering this club I
didn't go back to La Rumba, or any of the others. (l)
Few mysteries remain at the turn of the century. Are we alone in our
galaxy and why on earth would anyone want to spend his/her holiday in
Veradero? The beach is nice, and that’s it. Compared to the rest of Cuba the
place is boring. No historical places, a very ugly main road, a rather dull
dolphinarium (they let you and about 500 people swim with the poor dolphins
for $45). It was the only time in Cuba privately prepared food was
disgusting. So don’t let the lifeguard at Calle 53 near the Hotel Dos Mares take
you anywhere. And don’t go for the $70 whole-day catamaran sailing trip (swim
with dolphins, snorkel at a reef, stop on a remote island, eat lobster, drink
free beer) as it’s a ripoff. Sure the drinks are free, but the dolphin bit
means lining up in a pool and 2 poor dolphins pop by and give you a “kiss,”
snorkeling was at a dead reef (they told us it was too stormy to go somewhere
else) and the remote island turned out to be a restaurant on a little island,
where quite a few boats unloaded their gazillions of tourists and you get
something which vaguely reminded you of some sort of seafood that has been
dead for quite a while. And of course we didn’t sail, but used the motor the
whole time. (w)
Viñales
This is a sleepy town just north of Pinar del Rio. The scenery on the trip
out is beautiful, and some of the turns in the road open up on scenic vistas,
with green limestone hills surrounded by farmland. Recommended stops: the
Hotel Jasmines, which has a mirador overlooking the valley, and the caves
about 7 km north of the city. The caves are a tourist trap to a degree,
complete with musicians that strike up a tune as you enter the caves ($3 for
the short tour), hoping you’ll tip them a dollar, and a souvenir stand at the
end. Guides are multi-lingual, but the boat trip lasts only a few minutes.
(me)
Very pretty and impressive. We stayed at the Hotel Jasmines with a
spectacular view overlooking the valley. The first cave was a tourist trap,
so we skipped all the others. (w)
Return to places A-M
Add comments about what you loved or hated.
Thanks to sources:
(me) uh, that would be me, Allison, 12/96
(a) john@bishop-co.com, 1/98
(b) jon.anders@geocities.com 1/98
(c) subartley@hotmail.com, 2/98 and 4/98
(d) iplk@xs4all.nl, 5/98
(e) dfuentes@scholastic.com, 6/98
(f) shooter@interpoint.net, 6/98
(g) clausfi@aol.com, 7/98
(h) dfuentes@scholastic.com, 6/98
(i) frederik.vanhaverbeke@elis.rug.ac.be, 7/98
(j) fvazquez@jcce.org.cu, 7/98
(k) mandanose@email.msn.com, 8/98
(l) toapril@hotmail.com, 8/98
(m) matt@total.net, 8/98
(n) rgeiger@dir.fh-sbg.ac.at, 9/98
(o) jr2@Rcs1.urz.tu-dresden.de, 10/98
(p) Patrick.Smets@veritas.be, 12/98
(q) keivan@ce.luth.se, 12/98
(r) jean-marc.dugauquier@is.belgacom.be, 11/98
(s) lieven.decraemer@vtb.be, 7/99
(t)
mp.doma@siolnet & Mojca.fajdiga@siol.net) 1/00.
(u) julop@iname.com,
3/00
(v) christian.mondor@canadacouncil.ca, 3/00
(w) friedrichsdorf@gmx.net, 10/99
(x) andmeddave@hotmail.com, 5/00
(y) julop@inam.com, 7/00
(z) mmp@kabelfoon.nl, 10/00
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