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Terrific Thailand...

We arrived in the morning to a sweltering hot and humid 35 degrees which slapped us in the face as we walked out of the airport building and into our awaiting air-conditioned taxi.

We then discovered that the plane was not really a plane, but a time capsule that took us from 19th century Calcutta to 21st century Bangkok with high rise serene tower blocks. The roads were wide and long and we soared down the motorway onto the spaghetti junction (or should I say noodle?) at 120kmph - reaching our destination Khoa Sang Road AKA Tourist-Haven. This road has everything a foreigner wants neatly bundled into one long street - yet evoked memories of my mother leaning over with that knowing wise smile 'be careful of what you wish for........"

The stalls offer fake designer watches, T-shirts, jeans and every type of modern gadget and cigarette lighter you could imagine. Cafes and bars line the streets offering dishes from every continent and videos and even soccer matches live from Europe. Taxis and Tuks-Tuks (Thai equivalent to autorickshaws) wait for their prey alongside overpriced and unreliable travel agencies with the occasional couple coming out of the glass door screaming "Don't go in there they take your money and don't deliver they rip you off" - apparently a common occurrence here. Trust No-one!

So we trekked to the south bus station and purchased our tickets to the idyllic island of Kho Phang Nang leaving Christmas Eve at 8pm and arriving at 10 am on Christmas day at a cost of 320 B (about $8). En route to our hotel we happened across a McDs and a cinema complex complete with 20 foot digital Video wall showing how films were made etc.... We bought tickets and stocked up with popcorn and took our positions for "The Jackal". In Thailand before each film the audience must stand as a picture of the king appears on screen and the national anthem is played - I haven't even seen a photo of our Mary McAleese - but we stood respectfully.

 
THAILAND.

   $1 US      = 45 Thai Bhats (decreased to 55)
   1 Sterling = 78 Thai Bhats 

Saturday 20th to Monday 22nd December 1997
Hotel; Welcome Guest House, Kho Sang Road.
I recommend that you try to get a hotel off Kho Sang road There are some great spots in monks villas which are much more homely and cultural than the loud Kho Sang road area.
Room Type: Double room, outside shower and toilet (200B)
Verdict: Sufficient, hot water Bangkok
Bangkok has all the mod-cons and facilities of a modern western city, including the traffic jams and pollution. It also has a wealth of things to see, places to visit and hidden adventures.

Eating and Entertainment
Along Kho Sang Road where all the tourists hang out are many cafes with both Thai and western food and most offer videos and football on large screens. There is a lovely Indian restaurant if you prefer the hot Indian food to sweet Thai food. It is possible to spend a whole day in these cafes merely watching movies, reading and writing letters. Bangkok also houses all the fast food chains, plenty of McDonalds, KFC, Dunkin Donuts etc.... There are also a few cinema complexes showing current hits in English. The Central Cinema complex on the way to the southern bus station is an impressive high-tech cinema. Of course the more mischievous souls head for the night shows on Pha Pong. Beware of being ripped off. A beer may only cost 70B but they'll try to charge for shows and all kinds of 'extras'.

Sight-seeing and Shopping
Bangkok is well endowed with plenty of temples and sights. Don't try to see too many Wats or you will be sick of them before you even get out of Bangkok. The Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are magnificently gaudy and a great first introduction to Thai style architecture. The Emerald Buddha is a meditating statue about 2 feet in height has been the object of a tug-of-war between the Thais and the Lao since it was found in Chang Rai, Northern Thailand in 1464. It is perched in it's specially made golden gown atop an extremely ornate golden altarpiece bordered by larger gold Buddhas standing in the peace position; elbows to the side, arms out and palms facing upwards. The Audience Hall, the symmetrical Dusit Group, the Golden Stuppa, the Belfry and all the other buildings in the compound are intricately detailed in metallic coloured tiled mosaics. One has to admire the detail, craftsmanship and restoration work.
I found the permanent collection at The National Gallery not as good as the fantastic artworks on display in the Environmental exhibition. Allow a few hours to wander around the National Museum across the road.
There are many clothes, crafts or fruit and vegetable markets, which you can explore, some at weekends and others being the early morning floating markets. You can get cheap fake designer clothes, watches and jewellery on Kho Sang Road and it's environs. Although local markets are cheaper they mainly cater for local tiny petite figures!

Transport and Communications
Tuk-tuks on Kho Sang Road try to charge high prices. We found it very difficult to bargain down to a fair price. Therefore if we did not avail of public transport (boat or bus) we took taxis which have a pick-up fee of 35B and are very cheap thereafter mainly because they don't get very far very quickly in the ridiculously congested traffic of Bangkok.
The G.P.O. in south Bangkok has a superb parcel service for all those people who have gone wild shopping. Stamps and great postcards can be bought in local shops everywhere. There are many telephone exchanges and fax facilities on Kho Sang road although not all of them have a call-back facility (which you must pay for). Phone cards are also available in local shops. Email and Internet is accessible at HELLO Cafe on Kho Sang road quite cheaply. There is a scanner there too but it was never working when I was there.

Boats
A boat journey down the canals are a must. The silent waters off the main rivers have a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere, wooden houses balance on stilts over lapping water. Residents get around by boat, kids play on wooden stairs above the water and older folks laze in swaying hammocks while pets snooze the afternoon away.
If you are trying to get around the city it is often quicker to catch the express boat along the river and then make your own way from one of the many stops to your inland destination.

AROUND BANGKOK
There are many great one or two day trips from Bangkok One should make an effort to get out while waiting for visas etc. It is too easy to waste time watching videos and shopping in Bangkok. Try not to let this happen. Unless you're a middle aged couple or on business I would not recommend the Rose Gardens as it is very package-tourist and a colourful showy version of Thai culture.


Travel and visas
Arranging travel around Thailand can be done at any of the tour operators on Kho Sang road. Be aware of the many horror stories from a lot of travelers about these places. We decided to book a ticket directly from the Southern bus station to the southern islands. However it is as easy and as cheap to book tickets up north in any of the Kho Sang road tour operators. We shopped around for the cheapest and most reliable and bargained down the price. We encountered no difficulties or rip-offs going through the tour operators.
We bought our visas for Laos and Vietnam directly from the embassies which is cheaper and less risky than trusting a third party with your passport.

> going south

 
    

If you have any comments or suggestions I would love to hear them. Please mail me

© Catherine Wilson 97-99

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