Contents:

Parallel link:

The first link is built to connect to the parallel port in your computer. The parallel port is the same port as your printer port. This link is relatively easy if you know how to solder. Parts needed: Soldering Iron, Solderable Male 25 Pin Connector (to plug into parallel port), a cover for the male connector, stereo 2.5mm plug or 2.5mm stereo socket (these must be stereo plugs or sockets in order for your link to work), 3 core cable (has two wires and a copper strand in the middle to act as a ground, and electrical tape. You can also use a more simple way. You can cut your original cable that came with your TI-85 (the one to link 2 calculators). Then you only need a connection for the parallel port. For a schematic diagram, see below:

Parts needed to build link

Part Description Radio Shack Catalog Number Quantity Price
Submini STEREO phone plug adapter 1/8" stereo => 3/32" (2.5mm stereo) 274-373 1 $2.99
Stereo 1/8" mini-size phone plug adapter 274-284 1 (one package of 2) $2.49
Silicon switching diodes 276-1620 2 (one package of 50) $2.29
25-position male solder D-sub connector 276-1547 One $1.49
2 conductor wire shielded with copper 278-514 1.5 m (one package of 20 feet) $3.89

 

For people in Belgium and the Netherlands who want to buy a link cable:

Diegenen die niet zo handig zijn met een soldeerbout, kunnen bij mij een klaargemaakte kabel bekomen. Indien U er één wenst kan u mij e-mailen. In het pakket zit een (werkende) link-kabel. Alle benodigde software voor gegevenstransfer. Én veel spelletjes, programma's, utilities, ... Allemaal direct klaar voor gebruik.De leveringstijd voor dit pakket bedraagd 1 tot 2 weken. De prijs is 500 BEF of 25 Fl. Dit is inclusief de verzendingskosten. Voor meer informatie gelieve een e-mail te sturen naar jantielens@hotmail.com

 

Accelerating your TI-85:

By: Keith L. Miller

Materials Needed:
     1 TI-85
     1 VERY small slide switch
     1 1pf cap
     2 4 inch small wires (the smaller the better)
       pencil soldering iron
       black tape
       small screwdriver (Phillips and regular)

Opening the TI-85:
There are three screws which need to be removed.  Two right below the battery
cover and the one that holds in the backup battery.  Once the screws are
removed, the case needs to be pried apart.  To do this without marring your 85,
first use the small regular screwdriver to pop the bottom corner up.  Then take
the battery cover and slide it along the side of the calculator.  It will force
the sides to pop open. I have found that this works best without scaring the
85's case.

What You See Next:
Now, you will see a silver shield covering the 85's circuit boards.  Remove the
two small screws at the bottom of the shield.  Once the screws are out, you
will see under it two circuit boards.  To accelerate your 85, you will have to
remove the two screws that hold the top board in place.  Now, lift the top
board up and move it out of the way.  This is what you'll see:

  ---------- CC -----------------              ------------------             
 |          |  |                 |      C9    |                  |            
 |          |  |                 |   R   C    |                  |            
 |          |  |       U6        |   R   C    |                  |            
 |          |  |                 |   R   C    |                  |            
 |    U5    |   -----------------             |                  |            
 |          |                        CCC      |         U4       |            
 |          |                                 |                  |           
 |          |                                 |                  |            
 |          |                                 |                  |            
 |          |                                 |                  |            
  ----------                                  |                  |            
                                               ------------------             

How to modify the board:
                                          -----------------------------------
                                         |                                   |
  ---------- CC -----------------        |     ------------------            |
 |          |  |                 |       C    |                  |           |
 |          |  |                 |   R   C    |                  |           |
 |          |  |       U6        |   R   C    |                  |           |
 |          |  |                 |   R   o    |                  |           |
 |    U5    |   -----------------        |    |                  |           |
 |          |                        CCC |    |         U4       |           |
 |          |                            |    |                  |           |
 |          |                            |    |                  |           |
 |          |                            |    |                  |           |
 |          |                            |    |                  |           |
  ----------                             |    |                  |           |
                                         |     ------------------            |
                                         |                            SW1    |
                                          --------------------------O----->O-
                      Screw Hole --> O                         CCC  |      |
                                                               CCC   --||--
                                                                      1pf
 -------------------
|                   |    First, desolder C9 completely from the board. 
|  /--\         SW1 |    NOTE: Be very careful as to not overheat C9.  It 
| |    |         __ |          will fry at high temps.  If it does however,
|  \--/         |__||          you can simply replace it with a 33pf
|-------------------|          cap.
|    |    |    |    |    
|    |    |    |    |    Next, resolder the bottom side of C9 to the top pad 
|    |    |    |    |    leaving the bottom pad open.
|    |    |    |    |
|    |    |    |    |    Now, solder two four inch long wires to your    
|    |    |    |    |    switch. It really doesn't matter which terminals
|    |    |    |    |    you use.  Now, solder the 1pf cap to both terminals
|    |    |    |    |    on the switch where the wires touch (see diagram).
 -------------------

Solder one of the four inch wires to the top of C9(the part of c9 that hasn't
been soldered to the board yet).  Solder the other wire to the pad where the 
bottom of C9 used to be.  I found it easiest to run the wires around U4 
and then tape them down using black electrical tape.  Just use small pieces 
of tape.  Try not to cover any components on the board.

Now, the electrical stuff is done.  The only thing left is to mount the switch.
I used a Dremal tool and cut a small rectangle out of the case just above 
battery compartment #4.  This leaves enough clearance for the switch when the
cover is replaced later.  Place the switch in the hole, and make sure there is
plenty of room for the switch to slide.  I used a hot glue gun to secure 
the switch, but just about any type of glue should work.  I don't recommend 
taping it in.  It might wiggle loose and touch something.

The last thing I did was to put black tape on the silver shield where the 
switch would touch when the case is put back together.  I also cut a 
small square notch out of the side of the shield for the two wires to bend 
up from the board to the switch.

Once this is all done, your calculator can run is turbo or normal mode.  
Switching in the middle of a computation or game will not effect the 
anything but the speed because there is always a cap connected.  

NOTES:  
If you can't find a 1pf cap, you can put two or more caps in series.
You might want to bend the leads on the switch 90 degrees to help with 
the clearance when the cover is replaced.

 

Accelerating your TI-85:
		     RADIO TRANSFER LINK PLAN
		     ========================
		     Designed By : Michael Jan
			Date : May 18, 1996
********************************************************************
INTRO --------------------------------------------------------------
********************************************************************

	RT LINK (Radio transfer link) basicly functions like a regular
TI-LINK except it is wireless! The parts for making this link will 
cost around $15 - $20 dollars for a pair, and the frequency is adjustable.

****NOTE that the RT links work in PAIRS.

	You may post & share this plan. But please give me credit for my 
work (at least put my name, Michael Jan).  I TESTED this plan, they transfer
within the range of 30 to 50 feet. (Which is more than what I expected,
great!). The following are the parts you need, you can obtain them at R.S.
			
	     * WORK ON YOUR OWN RISK, DON'T BLAME ME *
********************************************************************
----------------------------- PARTS --------------------------------
********************************************************************
PARTS           VALUE                           QUANTITY
--------------------------------------------------------------------

TI LINK         [TI BLACK LINK]                 1
(Cut Into 2)

Capacitors      [470 pF]                        2
		[100 pF]                        2
		[10  pF]                        2
		[4   pF]                        4
		[.01 uF]                        2
		[10  uF]                        4

Resistors       [10K Ohm]                       2
		[1.2K Ohm]                      2
		[33K Ohm]                       4
		[100 Ohm]                       2
		[180 Ohm]                       2

Transistors     [2SC1923]                       4

Coil(L)         [.27-.3]                        4

Battery Holder  [Holds 2 AA or 2 AAA]           2

Batteries       [AA or AAA]                     4

Diode           [Germanium]                     2

Copper Wire     [2 Feet]                        2
(Ant.)

*** NOTE The Parts Are For TWO RT LINKs, 
                Because They ONLY WORK In PAIRS!!!  ***

*******************************************************************
----------------------- DIRECTIONS --------------------------------
*******************************************************************

1. Print Out The Schematic Diagram (The Included GIF File), It is
   Easier To Put Parts Together.

2. Put The Parts Together By Following The Diagram (VERY IMPORTANT).
     *** NOTE For Schematic Diagram --

	Red Wire   = From TI Link
	White Wire = From TI Link
	(Copper Wire From TI Link Will Not Be Use)

		R  = Resistors
		C  = Capacitors
		T  = Transistors

	Connect +, - To Battery Holder

3. Adjust The 4 Coil(L)s Clockwise To MAX On Both RT Links.
   This Will Adjust The Frequences On Both LINKs To Be The Same.
   (You Can Adjust To Any Frequence You Like Between 90MHz-100MHz)

4. Put 2 Batteries Into Both Holders

5. THAT'S IT!!!, ENJOY YOU RT-LINK !!!!  =)

 


Last updated : 05-06-1997
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