The Aran Chronicles

or

the Aran Islands past and present

The Mission of the Aran Chronicles


It is my hope with these chronicles to convey to you a taste of my fascination with the Aran Islands, Arainn na Naomh, Oileain Arann.  I was captivated by the place long before I ever set eyes on this strange and wonderful space.

My interest in Aran is ultimately hereditary.  In January 1905 in the village of Kilmurvy on Inismore, Aran, a girl child was born to Barbara (nee Faherty) and Martin Hernon.  They named her Brigid.  She grew up with her three sisters and three brothers and, like so many Irish families before and since, most of them emigrated.  Her sister, Naula,  went to England; Anthony and Bartley went to America and eventually brought Brigid over.  There it was that she met and married Luke Connolly, a county Monaghan man, and bore four children.  The third child, born in 1940, was yours truly, Michael Connolly.

I was recently pleasantly surprised when I reviewed "hit" statistics for this site.  It seems there are a lot more people interested in Aran than I imagined.  I shouldn't have been surprised since I know how captivating these islands can be. As a result, I decided to revise these pages.  I've made a start with these few following words and, as time allows, I will expand the contents of these chronicles.



Charles Lever, Irish novelist, describing Aran: "...that great mountain rising abruptly from the sea...those wild fantastic rocks, with their drooping seaweed; those solemn caves wherein the rumbling sea rushes to issue forth again in some distant cleft."


Geography of Aran

Located at the western end of Galway Bay, the three islands of Aran raise their backs to the mighty Atlantic. Iniseer to the sourt-east in the chain is visible from the cliffs of Moher in county Clare. The population of approximately 250 is centered on the village of Iniseer. To the north-west of Iniseer is the island of Inismaan with about 400 inhabitants. There is a small airport in the north of the island. The third and largest island is Inismore, being 12 kilometers by 3 k. at its widest point. The waters of Galway Bay lap at its eastern shore but it rises to 123 meters as it faces the vast ocean. Inismore's main settlement, Kilronan, has a safe anchorage for its fishing boats and the ferries from Galway and the Connemara coast. The island boasts a population of 900 souls. Straw, Brannock and Rock Islands are small, uninhabited islands in the group.


The Physical Landscape

The sheer cliffs that face the Atlantic Ocean to the west are a bleak, but impressive sight. They rise as much as 300 feet from the sea surface.

At a few places, the water was worn away the limestone at the seas surface, but the higher reaches of the cliff remain. The erosion has created an enormous shelf that hangs hundreds of feet out over the water. The sea crashes against the cliffs with a tremendous ferocity, and frequently sends waves crashing 200 feet in the air.


Aran of the Saints

St. Enda was renowned for the strictness and discipline of his monastic rule.  He had travelled in Europe and had been influenced by Martin of Tours, David of Wales and Ninian of Whithorn, who all practiced a severe form of asceticism akin to that of the desert monasteries in Egypt.


Some of the earliest monastic settlements were by the edge of the sea, near cliffs, where the full majesty of nature exploded, illuminated, and rested, paraphrasing the rhythms of our natural life itself, with all its vicissitudes.


Celtic hermits chose the most secluded but also the most beautiful places for the ascetical lifestyles.  Their lives became intertwined with the rhythms of the seasons and the pace of their isolated world.
Saint Cavan's Church

Thomas Westropp, in an 1895 article in the Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland, vol.25, describes the ruins of the church on Iniseer as follows:

"Teampull Choemhain, the most interesting building on the island, bears the name of Keevan (Cavan), a brother of Kevin of Glendalough, and a disciple of Enda. It stands on a low knoll, much used for burial, and covered with the intruding sand--and is a beautiful object with its ivied gables and dark walls crowned with sea pinks and yellow vetches, rising out of the pale shifting sand. It consists of a nave and chancel, respectively 16 feet 4 inches by 12 feet, and 11 feet 4 inches by 10 feet 6 inches. The chancel, with the west and north walls of the nave, is ancient, but the chancel arch and south door are inserted pointed arches.
The west door (like the Ivy Church of Glendalough) is only used to give access to a later sacristy or residence; it is a fine and massive example of the linteled door with inclined jambs, 1 foot 10 inches to 2 feet wide. The lintel projects 9 inches from the face of the inner wall. The east window is also typical, the head hollowed out of one block, and the splay with a round arch. The chancel has also a south window with an angular head of two blocks, like those in Temple Brecan and Kilcananagh. The south capital of the chancel arch has antique foliage, and a head is carved on the base of the same pier.

The grave of the Saint lies north-east of the church, no inappropriate position for the last resting-place of a reputed queller of the tempest and the waves. Below the church a circular building with a round cell in it has been disclosed by the shifting of the
sand. Bronze pins are often found on the shore near it."

Daphne Pochin Mould, in her book, The Aran Islands (the islands series, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1972) writes:

"St. Cavan's church has not shared a like fate [buried entirely by the sand] simply because of energetic and constant digging. In 1971 the dunes rose round it as high as the gables and the ancient little church was cradled in a bed of soft sand. In O'Donovan's time the islanders went each Sunday to pray there, and today they still hold a big annual pilgrimage on the saint's day, 14 June, when the Mass is celebrated at the old church.

Teampall Chaomhain has been compared to the Trinity Church at Glendalough in county Wicklow. St. Caomhen or Cavan was the brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough, it is claimed, but few, if any, certainties are known about his life. The present chancel of the little church in the sand dunes is tenth century, with a nave added perhaps a century or so later. The doorway of the old church, with its heavy stone lintel, was re-inserted in the new west wall. The head of the chancel arch, the pointed arch of the doorway in the south wall, and the sacristy are late medieval. St. Caomhen's grave lies north-east of the church and is covered by blown sand (1971), and sand runs right up to the old graveyard and the church.

Just as with Gobnet, even if little is known of his personal history, Cavan was a real man, to whom Iniseer people have turned for help for centuries. At Ballyvourney it is claimed that Gobnet's intercession brings answers to prayer, and cures; so too with
Cavan on Iniseer. It is, of course, notoriously difficult to 'prove' a miraculous cure, but as far as the patient is concerned the matter is simple enough: 'I was sick, now I am well.'.

Roderick O'Flahery (1684) says that Iniseer was also called Ara Choemain, Cavan's Island. The distribution of sand and grass was rather different then. At the old church, he says, 'there is a marble stone over his [Cavan's] tomb with a square wall built about it on a plain green field in prospect of the sea, where sick people used to lie overnight and recover health of God for his [Cavan's] sake. I have seen one grievously tormented by a thorn thrust into his eye, who, by so lying in Saint Coemhan's burying place, had it miraculously taken out without the least feeling of the patient, a mark whereof remains to this day in the corner of his eye.'

St. Cavan was also much called upon for help in storm and fog at sea. Nurse Hedderman, the first nurse on the island, whose book of experiences was published in 1917, had to struggle against island superstitions, folk 'cures' and poverty. But she went to the trouble of collecting stories of some of the alleged cures brought about by St. Cavan's intercession. The mother of a child with what appeared to have been acute meningitis, whom the doctor had given up on, went to the saint's grave and would not leave it. She had the half-conscious child carried on the 'rounds' of the church, and it suddenly recovered and ran home cured. And hospital-trained Nurse Hedderman, in the final desperation of a case when no doctor could be found, and a half staved old woman in a cold house seemed to be dying with acute inflammatory rheumatism and complications that pointed to pericarditis, tried prayer. The woman's family promised prayers to St. Cavan and some of her relatives went to the church. That evening the patient was a little better, in three weeks time well again. Tough island constitutions, or the power of prayer? The answer is anybody's guess, but the woman was well again."


Farming on Aran

The Aran Islands -- Inismore, Inismaan, and Iniseer -- have no naturally occurring topsoil so soil has been created by breaking the surface limestone and working a mixture of seaweed, sand, and manure. As a result of the effort to create soil here, the islands are covered with a fantastic network of limestone walls. The walls are about three feet high and enclose many small pastures, often no more than a few hundred square feet in area. The surface of the islands is about 18 square miles, but there are more than 5,000 miles of walls.


The Aran Cottage

Like many Irish houses the houses were simple in design, painted white. Some of the older ones had thatched roofs, their walls thick, allowing for the picturesque wide window ledges. Some of the window surrounds were painted red, standing out brightly against the stark white.


Folklore of Aran

The custom of carrying an effigy of St. Brigit from door to door is still carried out in Inismaan and Iniseer.


A custom still found in Arainn, Inis Mor, is that of bringing live shellfish into the home on St. Brigit's day. These are placed in the four corners of the house and are said to increase its prosperity in the coming year.


Tourism

Getting to Aran

There are three ports serving the Aran Islands, they are Rosaveel, Galway and, in County Clare, Doolin.

From Galway the harbour is in the City and very easy to get to, one Ship serves all three islands the "Oileann Arainn".This sails all year round although in winter the service does not run every day.

From Rosaveel there are a number of boats serving all three islands with more frequent journeys to Inis Mór.

From Doolin in County Clare you can go to any of the three islands on a number of boats.

The journey by boat takes on average an hour to an hour and a half.

Contact Island Ferries or Doolin Ferries

Going to Aran by plane is by far the quickest way to get there, the journey takes just six minutes and the plane visits all three islands. Aer Arann provide flights all year round to each of the three islands with at least 4 flights per day. They also provide a Mini Bus service between Galway and Salthill Tourist Offices making it easier to get to the airport which is located at Inverin in Connemara, Co. Galway. During the Summer/Peak Season more flights are available. Car Parking is available Free at the airport.

Contact Aer Arann for further details.


Literature 

The fascination with Aran is not limited to you and I.  Many people before us have succumbed to the lure of these enchanted isles.  Here are some who have written about Aran.

Birds of the Aran Islands, Edward A. Armstrong, Irish Naturalist's Journal, vol. 12, no. 8, October, 1957
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Birds Seen on Inishmore, Aran Islands, 6-9 November 1957, John H. Barrett, Irish Naturalist's Journal, vol. 12, no. 12, October, 1958
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Aran of the Saints, James G. Barry, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, vol. VII, 1885-6
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The South Isles of Aran, Oliver J. Burke, Kegan, Paul, Trench and Co., London, 1887
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Witchcraft In the Aran Islands, Nathaniel Colgan, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, vol. 25, 1895
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Notes on the Flora of the Aran Islands, Nathaniel Colgan, Irish Naturalist's Journal, 1893
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Oileain Arann, Leo Daly, Swinford, 1975
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The Limestone Crosses of Clare and Aran, Liam De Paor, Journal of the Galway Archaeological and Historical Society, vol. 26, 1955-6
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A woman of Aran : the life and times of Bridget Dirrane, BridgetDirrane, Blackwater Press, Dublin, c1997.
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The Aran Islands : another world, Bill Doyle, Lilliput Press, Dublin, 1999.
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a film, The Man of Aran, Robert Flaherty, filmed 1932-3, release 1934
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a film, Oidhche Sheanchais or The Story Teller, Robert Flaherty, 1934
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Settlement and Population in the Aran Islands, R.A. Gailey, Irish Geography, vol. 4, no. 1, 1959
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The Aran Isles: A Report, M. H. Gill, Excursion of the Ethnological Section of the British Association from Dublin to the Western Islands of Aran, Dublin, 1857
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Synge's the Aran Islands : a world of grey, Arnold Goldman, Colin Smythe, Gerrards Cross, 1991.
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Arkin: Outpost in Aran, J.R.W. Goulden, Irish Sword, vol. 1, no. 4. 1952-3
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The ABO and RH Blood Groups of the Aran Islanders, Earle and Folan Hackett, Irish Journal of Medical Science, June, 1958
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The Ethnography of the Aran Islands, A.C. Haddon and C.R. Browne, Royal Irish Academy Proceedings, ser. 3, vol.II, 1891-3
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A List of Plants Found in the Aran Islands, H. C. Hart, Dublin, 1875
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Synge's first symphony : the Aran Islands, William E. Hart, Mariel Publications, New Britain, CT, c1993.
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Ethnological Excursion to the Aran Islands, Martin Haverty, Dublin, 1859
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Glimpses of My Life in Aran, B. N. Hedderman, Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co., London, 1917
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Notes on Some Antiquities on Aranmore in the Bay of Galway, Rev. William Kilbride, Journal of the Historical and Antiquarian Association of Ireland, vol. 1, ser. 3, 1868
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Notes on Some of the Ancient Villages in the Aran Isles, County of Galway, George Henry Kinahan, Royal Irish Academy Proceedings, vol. 10, 1866-70
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Inishmore: An Outpost Island, L.E. Klimm, Geographical Review, vol. 17, 1927
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The Relation Between Field Patterns and Jointing in the Aran Islands, L.E. Klimm, Geographical Review, vol. 25, 1935
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The Rain Tanks of Aran, L.E. Klimm, Bulletin of the Geographical Societyof Philadelphia, 1936
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Finding of Whales' Vertebrae in Clochan-na-Carraige, Inishmore, Aran, Co. Galway, H. G. Leask, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, vol. 73, 1943
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Crosses at Kilbrecan, Aran, R.A.S. MacAlister, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, vol. 25, 1895
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The Stone of the Seven Romans, R.A.S. MacAlister, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, series 6, vol. 3, 1913
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The Cross Inscribed Holed Stone at Mainster Chiarain, Aran, Co. Galway, R.A.S. MacAlister, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, vol. 52, 1922
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The Innocent Eye, Arthur Calder Marshall, London, 1963 (a study of Robert Flaherty)
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The islands of Ireland; their scenery, people, life, and antiquities, Thomas H. Mason, Batsford, London, 1950
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The cripple of Inishmaan, Martin McDonagh, Methuen Drama, London, 1997.
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The Antiquarian Remains of Inisheer, Aran, county Galway, D.B. McNeill, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, vol. 68, 1938
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Legends In the Landscape, Dara Molloy, guidebook to the island
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The Aran Islands, Daphne Pochin Mould, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1972
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Hero Breed, Pat Mullen, London, 1936
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Man of Aran, Pat Mullen, E.P. Dutton & Co., New York, 1935
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Come another day, Pat Mullen, Faber & Faber, London, 1940.
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On Two Sepulchral Urns Found in June 1885, in the South Isles of Arran, Denis Murphy, Royal Irish Academy Proceedings, vol. 12, 1879-88
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The Timeless Arans, Robert Cushman Murphy, National Geographic Magazine, June 1931
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Wild plants of the Burren and the Aran Islands : a simple souvenir guide to the flowers and fern, E.Charles Nelson, Collins Press,Wilton, Cork,    c1999
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Smuainte ar Árainn, Úna Ní Fhaircheallaigh, ar n-a cur amac do Connrad na Gaedilge, Dublin, 1902
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History of the Aran Islands, T.V. O'Brien, 1945 (manuscript copies in Trinity College Dublin (#3198) and London Library)
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Ailleadoireacht i nArainn, Tadhg O'Ceallaigh, An Stoc, April 1929
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Short Annals of Aran, Tomas O'Cillin, Archiepiscopal Library, Tuam (manuscript by former parish priest in Aran)
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Inis Meáin : seanchas agus scéalta, Peadar Ó Concheanainn, An Gúm, Dublin, 1993.
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Conamara Agus Arainn, 1880-1980, Gneithe den Stair Shoisialta, Micheal O'Conghaile, Clo Iar-Chonnachta Teo., Beal an Daingin, Conamara, 1988
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Thatched Homes of the Aran Islands, An Teachin Ceanntui, Dara O'Connaola, Ceard Shiopa Inis Oirr Teo., 1988
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Guide to the Aran Islands, Cuaiart ar Oilean Arann, Dara O'Connaola, Ceard Shiopa Inis Oirr Teo., 1978
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An Gaiscioch Beag, Dara O'Connaola, An Gum, 1979
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Oileáin Árann, Mártan Ó Domhnaill, Muinntir C. S. Ó Fallamhain, Dublin, 1930.
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Images of Aran : photographs by Father Browne, 1925 & 1938, Edward Eugene O'Donnell, Wolfhound Press, Dublin; 1998
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Cliffmen of the West, Tom O'Flaherty, London, 1935
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Aranmen All, Tom O'Flaherty, Dublin, 1934, Hamish Hamilton Ltd., 1934
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Téarmaí tógálá agus tís as Inis Meáin, Micheal O'Siadhail, Institiúid Ardléinn Bhaile Átha Cliath, Dublin, 1978
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Aran: Islands of Legend, P.A. O'Siochain, Devin-Adair, New York, 1962
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Scéalta Mháirtín Neile : Bailiúchán scéalta ó Árainn, Holger Pedersen, Comhairle Bhéaloideas Éireann An Coláiste Ollscoile, Dublin, 1994.
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The Non-Marine Mollusca of Inishmore, R.A. Phillips, Irish Naturalist's Journal, vol. 19, 1910
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Oileain Arann, Stair na nOilean Anuas Go dti, Antoine Powell, Wolfhound Press, Dublin, 1984
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When the Vestal Came to Aran, Hilary Pyle, The Irish Times, Dublin, 1964
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Stranger in Aran, Elizabeth Rivers, Cuals Press, Dublin, 1946
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Stone of Aran: Pilgrimage, Tim Robinson, Lilliput Press, Mullingar/Wolfhound Press, Dublin, 1986
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Stones of Aran :  labyrinth , Tim Robinson, Lilliput Press, Dublin, Ireland, 1995.
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Oileain Arann, a Map of the Aran Islands, Tim Robinson, Cill Ronain, 1975
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Oileain Arann, a Map and Guide, Tim Robinson, Cill Ronain, 1980
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J.M. Synge's Guide to the Aran Islands, ed. Ruth Wills Shaw, Devin-Adair, Old Greenwich,1975
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J. M. Synge and His World, Robin Skelton, 1971
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Aran Islands, a Personal Journey, Dennis Smith, Doubleday & Co., Garden City, 1980
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On the Occurrence of a Peculiar Race of the Humble Bee, Bombus Smithianus White, on the Aran Islands in Western Ireland, A.W. Stelfox, Irish Naturalist's Journal, vol. 4, no. 12, Novenber 1933
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My Wallet of Photographs, J.M. Synge, ed. Lilo Stephens, Dolmen Press, Dublin, 1971
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a film, How the Myth Was Made, George Stoney, distributed by Museum of Modern Art, New York, 1978
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The Aran Islands, John M. Synge, Elkin Mathews, London, 1907
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The Kelp Makers, John M. Synge, Manchester Guardian, July 1905
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Four plays and the Aran Islands, John M. Synge, Oxford University Press, London, 1962.
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The Arans, Ireland's Invincible Isles, Veronica Thomas, National Geographic Magazine, April, 1971
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The Flora of the Aran Islands, D.A. Webb, Journal of Life Sciences, Royal Dublin Society, vol. 2, 1980
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The North Isle of Aran, Thomas J. Westropp, Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland Journal, vol. 25, 1895
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A Study of the Early Forts and Stone Huts in Inishmore, Aran Islands, Thomas J. Westropp, Royal Irish Academy Proceedings, vol. XXVIII, Sect. C, 1910
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A Study of the Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran Isles, Ireland: Its Plan, Growth and Records, Thomas J. Westropp, Royal Irish Academy Proceedings, vol. 28, sec. C, 1909-10, reprint, Hodges, Figgis & Co., London, 1910
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Brasil and the Legendary Islands of the North Atlantic, Thomas J. Westropp, Royal Irish Academy Proceedings, vol. 30, 1912-13
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Notes On the Flora of the Islands of Arran, E.P. Wright, Proceeding of the Natural History Society of Dublin, vol. 5, 1866
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The Aran Islands and Galway City including Westropp' Account of the Aran Islands, Mount Salus Press, Dublin, ?1971
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The Aran Isles, National Geographic Magazine, April, 1996
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An Aran reader, Lilliput Press, Dublin, 1991.
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Archaeological inventory of County Galway, Stationery Office, Dublin,  1993
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The Book of Aran, Tir Eolas, 1995
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Field and shore : daily life & traditions : Aran Islands, 1900, Institiúid Ardléinn Bhaile Átha Cliath, Dublin, 1978
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Harmony Guide to Aran Knitting, Lyric Books Ltd., London, 1991
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Report on the Aran Islands, Congested Districts Board, 1893
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A Sketch of the History and Antiquities of the Southern Islands of Aran, Royal Irish Academy Transactions, vol.XIV, Antiquities, 1821-5
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A World of Stone, Curriculum Development Unit, O'Brien Press, Dublin, 1977
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The Aran Islands

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