Let me start by congratulating you on your choice of profession. It is a hard road to become a successful warrior, but it is also a lot of fun.

A word of warning: A warrior is the absolute hardest profession to choose in the game. I recommend that only those who enjoy a challenge attempt to make a warrior.

Part 1-Races

Part 2-Stats

Part 3-Training

Part 3a-Damage Factor Reduction

Part 4-Equipment Selection

Part 4a-When to Buy Better Armor

Part 5-The Warrior Guild

Part 6-Roleplaying

Part 7-Names

Part 8-Parting Advice

In GemStone III you have the choice of being one of eight distinct races (seven really). Each has its own set of pros and cons.

Humans-Adept at nearly everything. No penalties to worry about.

Elves-Great reflexes and dexterity. High penalty to discipline, and a small penalty to strength. Their reflexes gives them a good defense, and combined with their high dexterity, makes them one of the few races able to swing two-handed weapons at 5 seconds. Their penalty to strength however, gives a -5 to their AS.

Half Elves-Sharing traits of both elves and humans. No significant penalties, and a little bit of Elven swiftness.

Dark Elves-Quick like their lighter cousins, but physically weaker.

Sylvankind-Elves who spend most of their time in the forest. They are quick, but not as quick as ordinary elves. They have few penalties, and are nearly as adaptable as humans.

Giantmen-Strong and sturdy warriors with many, many health points. They have great bonuses to strength, giving them a +15 to AS, but suffer an aura penalty, making them a bit more susceptible to elemental magics.

Dwarves-Nearly as strong as the giants, and almost as many health points. They have an innate resistance to magic, and poisons.

Halflings-Extremely dextrous and good reflexes. Like the elves, they can swing a two-hander at 5 seconds, but they suffer a huge penalty to strength, which results in a -20 to their AS.

I myself am an elf, purely for roleplaying purposes. Each of the races is specialized in their own area. Pick the one who you like, or if you can't decide between a remaining few, pick the one you feel will help you to benefit the most.

As anyone will tell you, try to get one roll in the 90's, three in the 80's and the rest over 35. They should all add to over 620. Placing them is a bit different.

Listed below are the growth intervals for each race of the warrior profession:

CON DEX DIS LOG INT STR REF CHR WIS AUR

Dark Elf 28 30 20 10 8 30 35 15 15 15

Dwarf 35 20 25 10 10 35 25 13 18 15

Elf 25 30 15 15 12 30 32 10 17 20

Giantman 35 23 20 10 10 35 28 15 15 15

Half-Elf 30 27 18 10 10 32 32 17 15 15

Halfling 35 30 15 8 10 25 35 18 15 15

Human 32 25 20 10 12 32 30 15 15 15

Sylvankind 28 30 15 10 10 25 35 20 15 18

The higher the number, the more quickly the stat will grow. There are quite a few different methods of placement.

Maxing: Making sure you will achieve your highest potential later, making you much more powerful. This will leave you quite weak in the beginning, but there is no way anyone who did not do this will match you at higher levels (by higher I mean 50+). To do this, put your highest numbers in the stats with the lowest growth intervals. (I.E. A human warrior's logic stat is the slowest to grow, so put your highest number there).

Partly Maxing: This is the preferred method by most. The number of training points you receive at higher levels will not equal that of one who maxed, but they will be plenty. Take the two highest growing stats, like strength and constitution, and put low to medium numbers in them. (I.E. Strength 58, Constitution 56).

Power-Grabbing: This is regretted by many at higher levels. Put your highest numbers in Strength, Constitution, and other stats which, you use the most, but grow the fastest. This will leave you almost invincible in the beginning, but losing a lot of training points in the end.

Remember, your stats directly determine training points which are the most important thing to any character who wishes to hunt, or do anything well. Also, keep in mind that you get a +10 to strength and constitution for being a warrior.

I know all of you probably want to know how I placed my stats. I put them in the following order.

Aura, Discipline, Dexterity, Reflex, Strength, Constitution, Wisdom, Logic, Intelligence, Charisma.

As you can see, I partly maxed, putting strength and constitution low, but keeping reflex and dexterity high, so that I have a good defense, and can swing quickly.

Before you go about placing them though, let me tell you how each will effect you.

Constitution: The bonus to this stat is added to your races max health points, to determine your total max hp's. Since it takes a while to train your hp's to the max, you will not see a need for more in this for quite a while.

Dexterity: This determines success with wands, dodging maneuvers, and when the bonus is combined with that of reflex, determines how many seconds, if any, are reduced from your attack round time, not to go under 5. Countless other things are no doubt determined by this as well.

Discipline: This stat determines both mental, and physical training points, and total control over your body.

Strength: The feature of this stat that you will notice the most, is that the bonus to it is added to your AS. It grows very quickly for a warrior.

Reflex: The bonus to this stat is added to your DS, which is my reason for suggesting it be placed high on the list. Also, see dexterity.

Charisma: Helps you with trading. No real use for it just yet, but you never know. I placed mine low because I'm an elf, and still get a pretty high bonus.

Logic: Along with intelligence, determines how much experience your mind can hold, and how fast it absorbs. Your current level also affects absorption, so it is not a real necessity to place anything high here.

Intelligence: See logic.

Aura: This determines spirit points, and your defense against elemental spells as well as both mental and physical training points. Very important.

Wisdom: Many relegate this to a low position, but its slow growth rate, and ability to add to our defense against spirit magic (a warrior's bane), makes me think differently.

I have listed below all of the skills, and my thoughts on each. I hope this helps you decide what to train in.

Double Weapon Use-A nice skill if you want to have the advantage of two attacks at once. Unfortunately, they don't hit as hard as two-handed weapons, and don't give the advantage of a shield like single-handed weapons. Make sure if this is your calling that, you double-train every year (level). It wasn't mine. Total Cost: 10/3

Armor Use-The main point of being a warrior in my opinion is to someday don that suit of full plate. Later on, I'll talk about when to upgrade, but for now, let me recommend doubling, instead of tripling, since it does max out, in a sense. Once you do reach the point you wish to achieve, switch to singling, as you will not be encumbered as quickly by overtraining. Moreover, it's good for DF Redux. Total Cost: 6/0

Shield Use: If you intend to swing a single-handed weapon, using a shield is the main advantage to it. Double each year because it maxes out at a bonus of 300. Total Cost 6/0

Combat Maneuvers: Double every year no matter what. This helps with MANY, MANY things. It is costly, but you'll be glad you did it. Total Cost: 12/9

Edged Weapons: The most prevalent single-handed weapon type there is. My personal favorite. Before the implementation of DF Redux, these were really the only way to go, now two-handers have it easier later on, but harder at first. Double each year if you wish to use these. Total Cost: 6/3

Blunt Weapons: If you decide you prefer blunt over edged, or wish to train in both, double train. The same comment about single-handed weapons under edged applies here as well. Total Cost: 6/3

Two-Handed Weapons: These are a wide variety of swords, axes, hammers, and such that are too heavy to use with one hand. These are a nice advantage for a warrior, especially later on. Double train in these solely, or in addition to another weapon type. Total Cost: 12/3 (same as doubling in edged and shield).

Ranged Weapons: Great attack, but poor defense from them. Not really all that good, unless an engagement system is put in, which may very well be in the future. If you wish to be an archer, double train each year. Total Cost: 9/4

Thrown Weapons: These really aren't fully implemented, so information is sketchy at best. Once again, double train if it's your calling. Total Cost: 12/3

Pole-Arm Weapons: Weapons like lances, spears, pikes, etc. Like two-handers they do immense damage, but most leave you without a shield. Double train if you like staffs and such. Total Cost: 12/3

Climbing: Helps you to go places without falling to your death. I recommend alternating every year with swimming. Total Cost: 2/.5 (half every year, since you are alternating).

Swimming: Like climbing, helps you to get places, but this time, without drowning. Total Cost: 1.5/0 (half every year, since you are alternating).

Fighting Multiple Opponents: Not yet implemented, but good for redux. In addition, it may very well be implemented soon. Things are always changing in GS. If you want to have an advantage once it comes, train once a year, or once every other year. Total Cost: 5/2 or 2.5/1

Disarm Traps: Very good skill combined with bashing. Bashing is not very good if you die from a trap every time. Single train every year. Total Cost: 2/4

Pick Locks: Not very worthwhile due to bashing, but if you like the style of it, then by all means, single train. Total Cost: 2/4

Stalk/Hide: Unfortunately, if you use a single-handed weapon, at later levels you will need to ambush things from hiding in order to survive. Single every year if single-handers are your style, and try to double later on. Total Cost for Singling: 3/2

Perception: Great skill. Helps you find treasure, hidden players or critters, and allows you to see certain things. Single every year. Total Cost: 0/3

Spell Research: In my honest opinion, not worth it. The great cost of this, and the fact that it decreases your DF Redux makes it a bad choice. There are so many out there that know spells and can give them to you if you choose to ask. Total Cost 0/32 (presuming one spell every 5 years, which is what some recommend to warriors who get spells. Normal cost for once every level is 0/160).

Scroll Reading: A nice skill to supplement your fighting abilities. Some scrolls out there have very nice spells in them. Try to learn this skill every other year until you have a 62 in it. You can read nearly any scroll by then. Total Cost: 0/3.5 (due to the fact that you only need to save half each level).

Magic Item Use: Another nice skill to start on when you finish with scroll reading. You can decide to go to either 62, or 102. Once every other year, in the same manner. Total Cost: 0/5 (due to the fact that you only need to save half each level).

Mana Sharing: A great skill, which helps your magic-using friends. You give them your mana, that you can't use, and they cast a few spells on you, or are able to continue hunting with you. Train once every three years (usually starting after level 25). Total Cost: 0/8.33 (due to the fact that you only need to save one third each level).

Spell Aiming: You don't need this unless you cast elemental spells at your foes. You use weapons, and will surely never get any good spells to cast at opponents. Singling Cost: 5/25

Ambush: See stalking and hiding. This also helps with out in the open targeting, yet so does combat maneuvers, so if you can use a two-handed weapon later on, it is not truly necessary, but a luxury. However, single-handers should train once a year in this, eventually doubling once points free up. Total Cost for Singling: 4/4

Physical Training: Adds to your health points. You reach a maximum, so anything more than singling is unnecessary. After you reach your maximum, continue to single, as the more training you have in this, the quicker your hp's will regenerate.

First Aid: This helps with stopping bleeding, and skinning. Not bleeding to death is nice, especially as a warrior. Single in this. Total Cost: 1/3

Trading: This skill is not really a necessity. It helps to talk down merchants, but the effects are minimal. In addition, the shopkeepers won’t like you much if you continue to get the lowest price possible from them. Cost for Singling: 0/4

Pick Pockets: A way of supplementing your income, but not worth it for a warrior. Too many characters with high perception, and you can't get enough ranks to outweigh that. Cost for Singling: 3/3

Brawling: A great skill. If you wish to use Voln Fu as a mainstay against the undead, then double train. If you wish to rely on your sword, single train, as it helps with defense when your weapon is sheathed. Singling Cost: 2/1

I train in this manner:

• Armor Use 2x
• Shield Use 2x
• Combat Maneuvers 2x
• Edged 2x
• Two-Handed 2x
• Climbing/Swimming Alternating 1x
• Multi-Opponent 1x
• Disarm Traps 1x
• Perception 1x
• Scroll Reading .5x (Started late, as I did not have available points, but it is no big deal for a skill that reaches effectiveness soon).
• Mana Share .3x (starting after the 25^th year).
• Physical Training 1x
• First Aid 1x (I was not able to single every level until level 6, but the 5 ranks I lost mean next to nothing when diminishing returns come into play later on in life).
• Brawling 1x

As you can see, I wanted to be versatile, and this costs a LOT of training points (57.5 physical, and 40.33 mental, exactly. No one will get such a high amount for a while). That is why it is a good idea to partly max, or max, so that you will have them to spend later. It also helps to start with good rolls. Being able to save up unused training points over the years helps a lot as well. Just remember that you do not need to begin training in the skills that max out, with the exception of armor use and shield use. You can wait until you get enough points to do so, and spend points in other skills you wish to train in that do not max.

It is my personal recommendation that you train in more than one weapon type.

Redux was a great benefit given to us warriors. It was an important step taken in balancing us out with the other professions. Don't expect to see it until you are in your early twenties. It is impossible, or so it seems, to get it before 21.

Redux is granted by getting a certain number of primary and weapon ranks, that cancel out magical and age based modifiers. To see the formula, type help dfredux in the game, I won't write it here.

One who gets 8 primary, and 3 weapon ranks per level will start seeing redux at level 23. This is the average. My training gives me somewhere around 9/5. The more you train for redux, the more effective it is. However, while you should train with redux in mind, do not train solely for it.

Now when you start out in either Wehnimer's or Icemule, you have a weapon, shield, sheath, yada, yada, yada.

The shield you are given is good until you can afford to upgrade to a substantial magic metal. Not mithril, but something like ora or higher.

The weapon is suited for your training, but may not be the best you can get. You should visit the weaponsmith and see what he has to offer. If you're lucky enough to start with a longsword or a falchion, keep that however.

The armor you start with is usually reinforced leather. Keep that for now.

I am not going to explain the mechanics of armor. There are plenty of guides for that. I will tell you when to upgrade however.

Take your weapons base rt, add your armor's rt penalty, then take off the rt you negate from armor use and your dexterity and reflex bonus. If it is 5, stick with the armor. If your total is under 5 buy a set which gives you a 5. If your total is over 5, buy a set that gives you a 5.

The warrior guild has branches opened in Icemule, Wehnimer's Landing, and Teras Isle. The cost for joining, and being a member is very low. It is not an institution made to balance warriors. It is for roleplaying purposes only. The skills are very useful, but not designed to give you power.

The six skills are Batter Barriers, Warrior Tricks, Disarm, Berserk, Tackle, and Warcry. Each has its own effect. It is best to get a specific guide to the guild if you wish to learn more.

You must be level 15 to join the guild, unless invited early by a guildmaster. It is not a good idea to be invited early, as many look down on early invites, and the skills are nearly impossible to learn at a young age.

The most important thing to remember is that GemStone III is a roleplaying game. Play your role well, and you'll have fun. If you do nothing but hunt, you'll soon find the game boring. Make goals for yourself, but don't make a goal to get to legend in three months. You'll miss everything the game has to offer if you do that.

Also, don't use terms like AS, DS, AvD, and such. They belong only in the combat equation. You do not speak of your skill in something in real life with numbers, so don't do it in this life.

When you roll up your warrior, take some time, and think of a serious name. There are endless tides of ridiculous names out there. Would you have any respect for someone named Coffee Drinker? Neither would I.

The last thing I'm going to say is to just have fun. Don't be a giantman warrior if you like halflings better. People respect you for your roleplaying, not your AS, DS, or other stupid things like that.