Once more I focus my eyeglass on Taiwan. And in this letter I have turned it onto Taiwan's fledging democracy. The history of which is short and of no interest to me, so I have bothered to only undertake the smallest amount of research. If you are interested, I am sure there are plenty of tomes dedicated to the topic. As far as I am concerned, Taiwan is still in its democratic infancy; a period of time in which the common people have learnt to enjoy the freshness of being able to choose a large number of its politicians. I am sure, after a few years, they will be jaded to the feeling.

As a quick introduction, the best I can do is as follows. At the end of the Second World War, the Nationalists were in control of China, including Taiwan. Taiwan had been under Japanese rule for nearly thirty years. But things did not go well for the Nationalist leader Chiang Kai-Shek on the mainland, and it did not go too well for the nationalist in Taiwan either. In Taiwan anti-nationalist riots resulted in the disappearance of roughly twenty thousand people around the twenty-eighth of February, 1947 (Remembered as 2/28, but do not expect many Taiwanese to be 'interested' in discussing it.) The KMT's actions were certainly not a good example of their democratic principles in work.

In 1949, the nationalists got their butts kicked by the Communists on the mainland, so Chiang Kai-Shek fled to Taiwan with all his supporters, the majority of his army and their families. He also took a lot of the antiquities and gold of the old Ching Dynasty with him; something for the mantelpiece I imagine. In Taiwan the Nationalist army built its defenses and made the island into a fortress to repel the Communists. At the same time, they set up a new government, which claimed itself to be the rightful government for the whole of China. Taiwan, the Republic of China, remained in the UN until 1971 at which time it was ousted by the People's Republic of China.

From the start, Chiang Kai-Shek made it clear that Taiwan was an interim seat of power, and that the Nationalist's goal was to seize the mainland back, yeah him and whose army? This has always had an important effect. Taiwan continued to be a province of China. The mainland, to the KMT, was a place controlled by insurgents, and to be retaken in the future. From the Mainland's point of view, Taiwan was a renegade province, and a part of China, to be reunited either by force or coercion.

While the Nationalists were waiting to take back the mainland, political dissention was not to be allowed and the country became a one party state, under the KMT (a.k.a. the Guo Ming Dang - the Nationalist Party.) Elections were allowed, the choice of candidates was naturally limited though, but the seats were contended by more than one candidate. In 1975, Chiang Kai-Shek died at the helm, a sprightly age of 87. Chiang Kai-Shek was succeeded by his son, Chiang Ching-Kuo. Ching-Kuo lasted until 1988. Chiang Ching-Kuo continued the Nationalists rule, but did end martial law in Taiwan in 1987; it had last 38 years from when the Nationalists arrived in 1947 with their asses smarting. Also during Ching-Kuo's presidency, in 1986, a new party was formed, the People's Democratic Party (DPP), they set themselves up as an opposition to the KMT. Even though the Nationalists had banned other political parties, Ching-Kuo ruled that the KMT was not allowed to stop the formation of the DPP. The DPP were duly allowed to field candidates in national elections.

For the greatest part of Taiwan's history the government had ruled as a one party state, vying for international recognition as the rightful government, albeit in exile, of the whole of China. The Nationalists held a firm control of the country and censored political opinion. But with the succession of Mr. Lee Dong-Hui to the presidency, after the death of Chiang Ching-Kuo, reforms started. Mr. Lee Dong-Hui was in some sense Taiwan's first elected president, albeit by the government. He was also the first Taiwanese president as the previous two were both mainland Chinese. Under his moderate reformist policies he started a change in the structure of Taiwan's government. His changes have so far included national elections for both houses in the legislative assembly, public elections for all of the mayors, city officials and local councils, and most importantly of all presidential elections.

The elections and reforms have lead to intense interest, and spawned a plethora of political parties. The two main parties are still the Nationalists and the People's Democratic Party. On manifesto points, there is little difference between the two of them, except that the KMT still hold to the idea of unification with the mainland with the KMT as the government - its never said, but I doubt they have any other thought. The DPP believe in independence for Taiwan, a Republic of Taiwan rather than of China. The only other difference between the two parties is that the DPP's legislators throw better punches (More on that later.)

A third party is the New Party, and a recent newcomer. It is a splinter party from the DPP and has taken some of its voters and following with it. They hold with the idea of a separate Taiwan, but are hoping it will happen soon. The other two procrastinate about their own opinions, and when unification or independence should happen. Their procrastination could be because the Mainland has a tendency to threaten Taiwan if it starts talking about change; it also has a tendency to fire up its war machine before any important elections in Taiwan. Next down the chain are the minority parties such as the Labor Party, the ethnic minorities parties and the Gangland Boss Wife's Party.

Choice has changed the country, and the populace has found that it has given them new gifts. How else would the electorate decide who to vote for? Influencing elections through blatant vote buying is illegal in Taiwan. Though which part, 'blatant' or 'vote buying' is the illegal part I am not sure. In the past, it was not uncommon for the candidates to slip voters a few dollars, I am sure, it was just good intentional greasing of the electoral machinery. How the candidates could ensure their money actually bought the votes it was intended for is anybody's guess. I am sure, Taiwan's endeavors to be democratic, protected the secrecy of voting; therefore, the candidates only piece of mind can be the fact that not giving a financial inducement resulted in disenfranchised voters giving them a cold shoulder at the election booth. Nowadays, vote buying is frowned on. Every election, the local authorities make every effort to uncover vote tampering, usually in opposition candidates; but many of the older generation yearns for the good old days of palm greasing.

Aware of the risk of being branded corrupt, the candidates seek new inducements to pursued the electorate of their singular political worthiness. Hence the campaign dinner. Here the voters are wooed by the candidates' eloquent speeches while eating a full dinner. Backhanding some cash is a democratic faux pas, but a free slap-up meal is still de rigueur. Thus many Taiwanese regard elections as a time of plenty, "Put that wok away Mrs. Chen, its election time again." I am sure, shrewd voters will want to gather as much information about the candidates before belching, sorry I mean coming, to a decision. How much of the speeches are listened to is anyone's guess. But if you get remembered for a good nosh then it cannot be all that bad for your electoral chances. Though, as with the cash I think people will remember you more for want you do not give, as to want you do give, "I can't remember an iota about his fiscal policy, but the beef noodles were damn good."

Some candidates have forgone the freebee route to election success. Unfortunately, the only successful ones were those who were assured a seat. The others failed, but with their consciences intact, not a big consolation. Electoral reform and outlawing of the campaign meals needs to be done. But if it guarantees you a seat, then why change the system. Change to the system is not going to come from outside as the electorate are happy to munch. Possibly the younger generations will change things, but as long as the older generations hold sway, nothing is going to happen quickly.

Even with the voter tampering, a large group of the population do get involved in the elections, exhibiting a "We can make a difference" exuberance. Possibly after so many years of control by the Nationalists, people like to wave their flags of freedom. The country is still staunchly inclined to the Nationalist Party, partly due to the years of isolation, with the mainland always on the horizon, and partly due to the older generations "if it ain't broken don't fix it" mentality. The Nationalist to their credit have created a strong economy, that is challenging Japan for manufacturing output, all in a small island packed with over two million inhabitants. Two million that have taken to flag waving with pride.

Of course, there is very little to differentiate the candidates in the elections. Manifestos are possible weak on ideas but full of rhetoric of the better Taiwan that will emerge at the candidate's hands. Like washing-up powder, they rely on flashy advertising and a punchy slogan. What is on the outside is important, the substance is not. Thus the electorate often has little to go on. At least the dinners might prove to have some benefits. But once behind their woman, or man, the supports will visually show their support by turning up to rallies and marches. Wild euphoria will erupt at the wave of a hand, a joke at the opposition, and the finish of a speech. Supports will don the colors of the chosen and march down roads to the beat of drums and blare of slogans. Once committed, Taiwanese will back their candidate to the hilt.

Campaigning would not be too bad if it was for the associated advertising. The methodology here seems to be an excessive and overwhelm visual and aural assault. During the run ups placards and Japanese style flags adorn the roadsides, bridges and intersections. And, as with most things in a Chinese culture, where one is good, twenty is better. Assailed as you drive down the street by a cornucopia of advertising you might try to hide from it all in the sanctuary of your home. Think again! If you try to hide away at home, they will come after you with loudspeakers and drums. Election time is definitely a time for suffering hearing impairment.

Loudspeaker trucks cruise the streets, blaring out slogans and pleas for support. These little utility trucks travel around in packs of two to four. They bear billboards with the candidates beaming face on. Each truck has its own speakers playing identical looped recordings, the only problem is the tapes are not synchronized, so the effort is disjointed slogans as the small convey trundles past.

If you are really unlucky, the candidate in his campaign truck will come by on a whirlwind tour. Wearing his red sash and with hands clasped together in supplication, he will beg you to vote for him with the plea, "Bai tou. Bai tou." Behind him will be an entourage of loudspeaker trucks, supporters in their cars, and trucks with gangs of drum beaters. These convoys can be a just a few vehicles or a whopping twenty or more that block up the roads. And as the day of the election gets closer the candidate will ward off bad spirits by setting off fireworks every so often. Not just one or two little squibs mind you, but great boxes of the things, which cause shellshock to anyone in their blast wave, cars alarms are setoff and, even possibly, the US is put on Def-Com 3.

I have often wondered what happens to the machines of campaign when the elections are all over? Where do all the loudspeaker trucks go? Who collects up all the roadside junk? I have hypothesized that the trucks frequent quiet roads mournfully playing karaoke tunes. Some though will find employment with wedding dress stores and spend their time blasting out the Wedding March. The advertising does not last long on the roadside, they are usually collected quite quickly. This is not because of public spirit to keep the streets clean, but more likely due to acute embarrassment on the part of the failed candidates.

Not content with the traditional pressing of the flesh in small numbers, political rallies have become a significant part for the prestigious parties battling for the high-profile positions. During the 'Three-in-One' elections in November of '98, the Nationalist Party and the DPP tried to out-do each other in size and theatrics of their rallies. The KMT's crowning moment was when they dressed up as modern day knights of the round table, in costume armor and bearing illuminated swords. I somewhat missed the connection between the two, unless the idea was that it was a utopian idea bound to fail because of internal problems cause by a devoted follower.

Campaigning is not always just an assault on the senses, even the candidates and their supporter can get wound up a little bit too far. Again the 'Three-in-One' proved a good example as to how important the elections are to the candidates. Two candidates, on their own flesh pressing tours, bumped into each other and decided that a few political opinions could be aired. A brawl ensured between their supporters and the candidates, one a women, fists flew and blood flowed. The police, looking less effective than high school monitors, tried to intervene and pulled the parties apart. Needless to say, the brawls continued every time the police pulled a pair apart and then rushed off to deal with another pair. After all the fighting, witnessed by a large assembly of television camera crews, the police carted off a pair of supports only because they had a few bottles of Molotov cocktail in the back of their car. The pair claimed the bottles were just for carry extra gasoline as they did not have a jerry can. (Sad to say though, their alibi sounds mildly plausible when I consider some of the Taiwanese driving ethics I have witnessed.)

When I saw the pair of candidates brawling, it occurred to me that they were trying to prove to the electorate that they could hold their own against the KMT and DPP legislator pugilists. The two parties have been well known for their ability to debate contentious issues through the use of physical contact. Their fistfights and spats of chair throwing have a slapstick quality, at times an almost schoolyard appearance, as spectators huddle around the combatants and jeer them on or try to separate the pair. With snotty, running noses the two will return to their seats, occasional turning to hurl some whiney reproach. For all the Assembly's good deeds these brawls always make the news, and on occasion, the international news. With such publicity, being able to fight it out when elected seems to be a perquisite of standing as a candidate.

Where do all the candidates come from? Why do they want to be in politics? Are good questions. Questions a writer with strong journalistic feels would get their teeth into with relish (Or any other handy condiment.) I am not one of that sort, and rather prefer to sit on my sofa and irrationally come to subjective conclusions. Recent local elections, which seemed to attract anyone with enough money to throw around, seemed to be full of the bored housewives of national politicians, the feckless sons of successful businessmen, and the family of gangland bosses. Why? Well local government is a good place to get rid of these individuals while still giving them respectable jobs. They can try at managing other peoples money without risk to their families. They can accept the odd junket, and there are many of the bonuses that come from grateful constituents. And of course, they can be used to steer the odd contract or tidbit of inside information towards their benefactor.

Corruption is going to be a natural part of local government in Taiwan. Corruption though sounds a bit strong, but it is the way a Westerner would see it. To someone from an Asian country maybe it is the way things are. The lucky are the people who have a chance to influence the way things happen. Having a line to such a person is part of your prestige. A sort of family thing, where the family looks after itself first. Those without a connection, just consider it part of fate and strive to make their own.

Does it all make a difference in the end? Yes, of course. The country's enthusiasm for political freedom has to be fed. It will go through a time where the people enjoy it all, not just because of the free meals. Next though, I assume, the country will go through a period of apathy where they wonder if they actually make a difference. Attendance to the rallies and marches will wane, and voters will not bother to vote. The populace will wonder how the situation can be reformed and old blood in the parties will be letted. Taiwan's government will be reborn and a new fresh approach to politics will be seen. Or it will all end up like the Japanese, and Taiwan will go through decades of weak coalition governments. Governments lead by politicians who just want to feather their nests before being found out. At least though, it will all be democratic, a fact that will annoy big brother.

As a thorn in the side of the Mainland's perfect society, Taiwan, which is still a province and still has provincial representatives, irks the communists. They cannot stand its rebellious noises, its democratic society that is so financially well off. It does nothing to convince its own country folk that democracy is an evil. Due to this and other things, China has always made its presence known during the times of elections. One of its biggest outputs has been the threat to invade the moment Taiwan declares independence. This has been considered a moderately significant reason for the failure of the DPP, and other parties, to either oust the Nationalists, from control of the government, or form a coalition.

While the Mainland chooses to remain silent for the majority of the time, it will rumble its disapproval occasional. It though normal picks any moment of great democratic change. Verbal threats are the main tool, but on occasion purposeful military exercises, that are claimed to be coincidental, are also utilized. And when the political event is significant enough more practical displays of power, as in the 1996 First Taiwanese Presidential Election. During that campaign the Mainland chose to test fire a few of its new continental ballistic missiles into the seas surrounding Taiwan. During that time, I enjoyed practicing my first air-raid drill, which completely shutdown Taipei for ten minutes, even the taxis had to stop. America in turn by coincidence steered a carrier fleet thorough the Taiwanese Strait. And at the end of it all, the incumbent president Mr. Lee Dong-Hui was elected as Taiwan's first democratically elected president.

Reference:
Lonely Planet Guide to Taiwan.
3rd Edition, July 1994.
Pages 11-13, 16-18.

Tuesday, 15th of June, 1999.

Legislators in the main house of the Taiwanese Government, the Li Fa Yuan, managed to display their metal again for the World to see.

A dispute erupted over the ruling government's desire to keep control of all forms of gambling and the oppositions desire to beat them at getting a public lottery started.

The DPP, which lost control of the mayorship of the capital Taipei, but wrestled control of the second largest city KaoShuiang out of the ruling parties hands, the KMT, started a public lottery. The aim of the lottery was to raise funds for local KaoShuiang concerns, while making the gambling mad Taiwanese with a chance to try their luck.

For the DPP to show disdain at the Government's control of such things smarted for the KMT. The KMT reacted by rushing out motions to re-affirm their control over gambling and sanction lotteries as a nationally controlled game and not locally.

DPP and KMT legislators debated the motions vigorously and with great animation. Not happy at pressing their points verbally some KMT legislators began to take the debate to the floor and some of the opposition with it. Scuffles ensued as legislators squabbled over control of microphones and it was not long before the pugilist nature of some of them got control.

The brawls that started, while not serious in the injuries caused, showed the Li Fa Yuan as a circus. The footage of the legislators in school yard fights must have been a godsend for foreign countries wanting to make a mockery of Taiwan and its government, not in the least Mainland China. The Mainland can always boast a well ordered and disciplined house of government, it is of course a single-party government whose only governmental power is a big rubber stamp for the plans of the Communist Party.

The result of the brawls led to a walkout by the opposition party. The ruling party then had full control of the proceedings and passed all their motions and a few more they threw in for good measure. The local lottery that the DPP had set up in KaoShuiang was declared illegal and ordered to be taken apart.

Does the walkout of the DPP and the following rubber stamping of the KMT's motions to stop them hurt the DPP? No. The DPP probably had no chance at stopping the majority KMT from passing their motions. The DPP had only wanted to look like Good Granny giving the electorate some candy, so that the KMT would have to play caring Big Bad Daddy and take it back.