Nihonmachi: Portland's Japantown
I finally got down to the Oregon Nikkei Legacy Center this afternoon to see their current exhibit, Nihonmachi: Portland's Japantown Remembered.
Just over there
Was our old community.
Echoes! Echoes! Echoes!
-- Poem from the JA Historical Plaza
The exhibit consisted of photographs and a few artifacts of
Nihonmachi or Japantown, the pre-War hub of the Japanese community. This was a 12-square-block area of downtown Portland that is now called Old Town. At the time, it was a bustling commercial center, with Japanese grocery stores, hotels, bath houses, laundries, theaters, gambling and social clubs, doctors' and dentists' offices, barber shops, beauty salons, tailor shops, garages and restaurants. The prices of goods seem unbelievable: a new suit was $12.50! But wages were also lower back then.
A few copies of the Japanese-language newspaper, Oshu Nippo* were on display. After the attack on Pearl Harbor on 07 December 1941, its printing press was seized by United States federal authorities, who then used it to print propaganda leaflets that were dropped on Japan. The press was never returned.
There were photos of floats the Japanese community used to enter in the annual Rose Festival parade before the Internment. This was like The Winning Float mural in Chemainus BC and the Strawberry Festival parade scene in Snow Falling On Cedars, where Ishmael sees Hatsue atop a float as Strawberry Queen.
School of course was important for Nikkei children. Class photos show Atkinson School at NW 11th Avenue and Davis had almost all Japanese students -- quite the reverse of my own experience in Edmonton AB. Most of the older children went to Lincoln High School, a building that is now called Lincoln Hall and used by
Portland State University for its music program. (Local Asian American drumming group Portland Taiko presented their annual home concert there until last year, when they moved it to a larger venue to accommodate their growing popularity.)
In addition to mainstream education, Nikkei children went to Nihongo gakko (Japanese language school). One of the school books on display was open to a Japanese dialogue, printed in katakana and simple kanji, with the student's romaji phonetic notes jotted alongside in pencil.
Sports were shown to be a big part of life in Nihonmachi, both Japanese -- karate and sumo (!) -- and American -- baseball, basketball, golf, football. Maybe something the self-image of Nikkei athletes can be inferred from the names they chose for their teams: Reserves, Midgets, Giants. The team jacket of Jack Yoshihara, a Nikkei player on the 1941 Oregon State University Beavers football team was on display. His team went to the Rose Bowl that year, but he was unable to join them because the game was (as it is today) in Pasadena CA, within the wartime Exclusion Zone. This story was especially poignant, given that the Beavers were finally again in a bowl game this year, victorious 41-9 over Notre Dame in the Fiesta Bowl on New Year's Day.
The last picture in the exhibit was taken after the Evacuation Sale of one of the Japantown stores, the window displays empty except for a Christmas backdrop. Portland’s nearly 1,900 residents of Japanese ancestry were rounded up at the Multnomah County expo center then sent on to the Minidoka internment camp in Idaho.
After the Internment, JAs dispersed and resettled within mainstream society, and Nihonmachi never regained its vitality. Today's Old Town is a bit rundown, although gentrification has started, with many new condominium loft developments at the edges. There are only a few Japan- or Japanese American-related storefronts, including the ONLC.
Ultimately, the exhibit is a bit depressing. It could have shown how JAs today get together, despite their dispersal, through churches and clubs where common interests are pursued.
The Nihonmachi exhibit closes next week on 13 January 2001. The next exhibit, Executive Order 9066: 50 Years Before and 50 Years After opens in February.
* The early Nikkei-jin called their American states "O-shu" (Oregon), "Wa-shu" (Washington) and "Ka-shu" (California).
Oregon Nikkei Legacy Center, 117 N.W. 2nd Ave., Portland OR, 503-224-1458
(06 January 2001)
A New Year and Millennium
Akemashite Omedetou Gozaimasu! Happy New Year!
We made it safely into the new millennium!
Dorami-chan worked hard during the past week to make osechi ryouri, Japanese New Year food, that we will be eating for the next few days. This was Dorami-chan's first attempt, so as a hedge and comparison we also ordered a prepared osechi meal from the deli department of Uwajimaya, a local Asian food store. She needn't have worried -- her dishes were delicious.
For New Year's Eve, we touched up the apartment cleaning job (osouji) we had done in preparation for
my parents' visit last week, then went downtown for a late supper. The bus was free, Tri-Met's way of discouraging DUIs.
We went to Koji Osakaya Japanese Restaurant for
toshi-koshi soba (year-crossing buckwheat noodle soup). It turned out many of the other customers were Japanese, including a group of snowboarder ryugakusei who left their table in such a state of disarray that we wondered where manners have gone among young people in Japan these days. Noodles cross between years, but not the generation gap!
Our after-dinner options were limited to exorbitantly priced parties at restaurants, bars and clubs. The local Buddhist temple had its ritual new year bell ringing at 6 p.m. instead of the traditional time at midnight (maybe so people could go to those parties?), too early for us. So we went to the Willamette River for a walk, and passed by Pioneer Courthouse Square, where many youths had gathered, seemingly unaware that there would be no fireworks and no public, all-ages First Night event this year (maybe the city blew the budget on the Y2K celebration?).
We got home safely in time for an American tradition: watching Dick Clark's (tape-delayed for the Pacific time zone) ringing in of the new year in New York's Times Square.
(01 January 2001)