AABENRAA
Another town with a unique maritime past
- home port of the China
Sailors and Master Ship Builders -
"Slotsgade"
- an old street, - once the
home for sailors and ship builders -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Aabenraa is another one of those
towns with a very strong and distinct maritime past.
In fact,- during a period in
its heyday during the last half of the 18 hundreds -, Aabenraa was the
second biggest maritime center in Denmark, - only exceeded by Copenhagen
- - - -
It became the home to numerous
ship owners,- amongst them Jørgen
Bruhn -,
who eventual became the biggest ship owner in Denmark. Also shipbuilding
flourished, and in the Aabenraa Museum you can see an old map showing the
port area as it appeared in 1866. On this map you can count 5 permanent
ship yards.
But that is not all!
You do not see the biggest and most famous of them all, - Jørgen
Bruhn's yard -, because it was placed outside the port area on a small
island , - Kalvø
-, at the bottom of the nearby bay, - Genner Bugt.
Furthermore, there were
ship builders who made only one ship, and then closed down when the job
was finished, and also those "one time" ship yards , you cannot find on
the map.
There would be nothing unusual
if a town of the size of Aabenraa had one ship yard ,- but actually having
so many is quite unique taken into consideration, that Aabenraa is only
a relatively small provincial town - - -
And they really could build
ships - -
The Aabenraa ship builders
pioneered the construction and development of clipper ships in Denmark,-
not only the best and the biggest in Denmark-, but in all of Scandinavia,
and those ships became well known all over the world for their good
quality , high standard, and not at least for their speed and beauty -
- -
One of those great ships,- the
"Cimber"
- , owned by Jørgen Bruhn, and built on his yard at Kalvø
in 1857 still holds the world record for the fastest voyage ever done by
a sailing ship from Liverpool around the "Horn" to San Francisco.
"Cimber" made the voyage in
103 days,- 12 days faster than the previous record-, and could very well
have been the fastest ship on the oceans in those days - - -
It was big too,- about 2800
tons-, which makes it even bigger than the navy frigate "Jylland"
from 1860. This clearly shows the great skill of the local ship builders
- - -
Also it might be worth to mention,
that the first Danish ship that ever rounded "The Horn" , happened to be
from Aabenraa! Of course - - -
"Slotsgade"
- another view -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
The Aabenraa ships sailed over
the most of the world, but when the first Opium War in China ended in 1840,
- which forced China to open up its ports for foreign trade -, and the
"Asiatic Company" in Denmark finally abolished its monopoly on the China
trade, the Aabenraa ship owners immediately grabbed the opportunity for
this huge new market, and eventually China and the Far East became their
favorite play ground, and it remained so up till our time, when the last
of the great Aabenraa ship owners , - Jebsen & Co. - , had ships
in China charter well into the seventies - - -
( See the story about the last
China trader,- "Emma
Jebsen".)
Staffordshire Dogs
- and YES! ,- the "Staffordshire"
dogs are here too -
- a sure indication of a maritime
past -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
The difference between Aabenraa
and another small, but well known , maritime town,- Marstal
-, is very distinct.
While Marstal specialized in
relatively small ships,- mainly schooners -, with traditional rounded bows
and quite wide hulls that could hold a lot of cargo, the Aabenraa ship
owners usually went for much bigger ships , often sleek, fast clippers
with at least three full rigged masts, well suited for trade all over the
world,- and made for speed.
But unlike Aabenraa,- Marstal
survived and remains to this day a major center for smaller ships,- the
coasters -, while the once so important and big shipping business in Aabenraa
slowly but surely died out!
The great ship owners and
master shipbuilders of Aabenraa apparently never accepted that ships built
of steel plates and driven by steam engines were far superior to the traditional
sailing ships, and therefore they realized too late, that the combination
of steel and steam was indeed better than wood and sail.
To them a ship was built of
wood, and driven by the wind, - flying over the oceans under towers of
white canvas, accompanied only by the sound of the wind and the waves -
- -
This is true sailing, and any
sailor who loves ships and the ocean can understand this very , very well,
but you cannot fight against development!
Therefore ,- when the shipping
community in Aabenraa finally realized what the future demanded, it was
too late!
One by one the once famous
ship yards had to close down, and likewise the once so great and powerful
ship owners had to give up their traditional trade!
Backyard House in "Slotsgade"
It is highly recommended to
have a look into the narrow passages ,
leading into cozy court yards
behind the old city houses -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Only one of the well known ship owners,- Michael Jebsen-, saw the great potential in the steam ship, and he tried in vain to persuade the local investors and shipbuilders to hire technical people, who could rivet steel plates together, and install machines, boilers and pipe systems , but all in vain - - - Nobody was interested - - -
Eventually he had to go to Germany
to find a ship builder who was willing to built his steam ship, and since
then Jebsen never again contracted a sailing ship for his fleet!
As a result of his foresight,
his company is now the only surviving of the once so powerful ship owning
community in Aabenraa.
But today Jebsen & Co.
does not any longer operate their own fleet of ships! It stopped
in the seventies , but if you go to Hong Kong ,- or for that matter the
whole Far East region -, the company has grown very big out there with
about 4 - 5000 people employed in offices all over Asia!
Another backyard at "Slotsgade"
- what a great place for an
old China sailor to finally drop the anchor -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
And Aabenraa???
Well,- the glorious maritime
past is forever gone, and if you visit Aabenraa today, you will not find
much evidence about it, unless you visit the Aabenraa Museum, which has
a truly unique maritime collection ,- in fact one of the best in the country
- - -.
But when walking in the old
streets the keen eye can still spot the faithful "Staffordshire"
dogs on display in several windows - - and you can see other typical sailor
souvenirs as well.
Also the great mansion of Jørgen
Bruhn is still there,- now used for other businesses.
See picture - - -
"Redergaarden"
The white house in the background
, - facing the square -,
was once Jørgen Bruhn's
big city house, - "Redergaarden" -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
"Redergaarden"
- a closer look at Jørgen
Bruhn's mansion, - right at the city's big square -"Storetorv"-
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
The mansion of Aabenraa's other
big ship owner, - Jacob Jebsen -, is much more impressive than Jørgen
Bruhn's big city house.
Just outside town you can find
Jebsens great mansion ,- "Lensnack"-, from 1908.
It overlooks the fjord from
a beautiful location with the Chinese name "Lai Mun",- again a reminder
of the company's strong links to China and the China trade - - -
The following picture shows
the entrance to the big park surrounding the mansion.
The main entrance to the park
surrounding "Lensnack" .
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Take note of the Chinese lions
on top of the pillars at the entrance.
On top of the wrought iron
gate you can see the initials "JJ" in gold, which obviously must refer
to the builder of the great house, - ship owner Jacob Jebsen.
On the middle brick pillar
of the gate you can also see some initials, - "MJ" - , which I believe
refers to ship owner Michael Jebsen.
"Lensnack"
- on the hill top overlooking
Aabenraa fjord -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
"Lensnack"
- a closer view -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
The old building of Jebsen
& Co.
- and a view along "Skibbrogade"
,- where once Ship Owners and sea Captains lived -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
The old Jebsen office is still
standing, although the big and highly polished brass sign with the Jebsen
name has now gone, being replaced with a more modest sign on the door showing
the names of the people now occupying the house.
A look behind the old Jebsen
building , - a wonderful courtyard with cobbled stones -
- and a chestnut tree -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
This lovely court yard was once
part of a garden that stretched all the way down to the harbour front.
From there Jacob Jebsen could
walk home by crossing a dam that went from the water front directly across
the harbour to his new mansion "Lensnack" - - -
Today this is not possible
anymore because of later port extensions - - -
Well, - it is possible, but
the shortcut across the water does not exist anymore due to a later harbour
expansions, so if you want to take the trip today, you will have to walk
all the way around the new port basin.
A memory from the past , -
a wall decoration from the old Jebsen & Co. courtyard - -
- the ship's bell from Jebsen
ship "Heinrich Jessen" of Hong Kong , 1940 -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
I wonder if the old ships bell in the court yard is still there???
But for sure you can see the
new Jebsen office from 1972, with its huge Chinese characters on the wall
,- (See picture) -, and with Chinese lions guarding the front
door - - -
And at the harbour front ,-
not so far away -, you can find a big, old stock anchor on display , as
a reminder of what once was!
The Jebsen Office, - "Rhederi
M. Jebsen" -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
The unique and well designed
yellow building to the very right, is also a Jebsen building, but I think
that it has nothing to do with the office, but is rented out as apartments
- - -
The garden from the old Jebsen
Office in "Skibbrogade" actually ended there, and it was from this place
that Jacob Jebsen had his shortcut between the office and his mansion "Lensnack"
- - -
See next picture, which is a
model of old Aabenraa where you can see the location of old Jebsen property,
- as shown on the previous pictures -
It's within the red circle
which I have drawn in order to mark it - - -
The inner part of "Gammel havn",
with the old Jebsen property. (Red Circle)
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
At present days, the new Jebsen
office, - as seen on the previous picture -, is placed just behind the
almost finished ship on the slipway at the bottom of the harbour - - -
At the bottom of the red circle,
is the present days location of the unique designed apartment building
- -
The Jebsen & Co. main office
in Aabenraa.
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
The big, Chinese characters
seem to have a double meaning, which is quite normal in China.
The two first characters sounds
very much like how the Jebsen name is pronounced, but in fact the first
character means a "winner" and the following character means "success".
The third characters means
"foreign" and the last one is the old word for "company". (Hong)
Indeed an extremely good and
very suitable name for a company like Jebsen.
Otherwise the town has many
houses built from money made on shipping,- and of course you can still
see the streets where the sailors and the shipbuilders once lived. In the
surrounding countryside there are several big farms and mansions once owned
by retired sea Captains and ship owners, but you have to know where to
look.
"Store Pottergade"
- another interesting area
of the city -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
At the end of "Store Pottergade"
you will find this lovely square -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Aabenraa
-
whit strange houses, - where the China sailors once walked.
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Back to "Slotsgade"
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Sailors were here!
Funny, old city house, - with
lots of "Staffordshire" dogs in the windows.
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Wonderful backyard details
-
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
"Slotsgade"
- a final view of a wonderful,
old street with wonderful, old houses -
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
But what about the many shipyards
that made Aabenraa famous???
Anything left????
Well,- "Gammel Havn", - "Old
Harbour" -, is still there, but the shipyards that turned out the great
sailing ships have long gone, although Aabenraa still have a small repair
yard.
However, - if you want to see
what it once looked like, you can visit the maritime museum of Aabenraa,
and see a great model of old Aabenraa, - including the port with its many
shipyards - - -
See following pictures - - -
"Gammel Havn" - "Old harbour"
-, with shipyards occupying both sides.
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Side view of "Gammel havn.
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
"Gammel Havn", - the inner
harbour.
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
Close-up of Reimers' Yard
(Photography by Karsten Petersen)
That was a few of my pictures from old Aabenraa , - now "sleeping"-, but where China sailors once walked ,- where great clipper ships were built,- and fortunes were made by enterprising ship owners, ship builders and China traders - - -
But if you take a trip to the
island Kalvø, you can still see the remains of
Jørgen
Bruhn's yard
, where the
famed clipper ship "Cimber" was
built.
The characteristic terrace
houses that once housed the ship builders are still there, - and likewise
the yards administration building - - -
However,- the slipway where
once the great clippers were built and launched, can only be seen as a
hollow in the grass, - leading down to the beach - - -
But if you have imagination,
- and can dream -, then stop and close your eyes for a moment, and try
to "see" and "feel" the atmosphere of what once was! And I guarantee,
that you really can "smell" fresh, cut wood, sawdust and tar, - and "hear"
the sounds of the ship builders axes, hammers and saws - - -
Continue to
"KALVØ"
Also, - please try the link
to "The Gold Coast"
- a very special cemetery -
BACK to "The Ships" menu - -
Updated: June 19th. 2003
Feb. 03. 2004
Jan.14.2008