To my friends and family!

I arrived in Tokyo Tuesday afternoon and made it to the south gate of Shinjuku Station by 7pm, in time to meet my friend Kunimi Masashi(all Japanese will be written surname first). I had met him in Pusan when he visited the "Internet Cafe" where, as you may know, I spent all my time. He had translated a letter for me to my Japanese host family (whom I stayed with 5 years ago), and we had gone drinking. After dinner we went to his house at Musashi-sakai which is close to my host family's house(coincidence? I think not! ). He and I used his computer and his father sat with us and talked a while. The Kunimi family had lived in Australia for 4? years about 20 years ago. Masashi's father's sister had in Seattle since 1955 until she died 4 years ago. On that occasion her brother visited Seattle and even toured Microsoft. Masashi's sister studied for a few years at the UW(Univ. of WA). His brother is studying now in Maryland. Masashi works for Canon. The house was luxurious but had the right Japanese touches, the separate toilet, deep bathtub, and tatami mat room. Earlier that day they made a "Western bed" out of chairs and pillows for me, so I slept on it even though I have been sleeping on the floor for the past 4 years or so. His mother made me a great Western breakfast and we talked for a while, despite her English being the worst in her family. My Japanese is gradually coming back. We made a hitchhiking sign( in Japanese and Chinese characters)and then I started out at 9:45. At about 10:30 or 11am I finally found the correct onramp for the intercity highway. On that day I almost always waited 15 mins.-1/2 hr.for rides. Not too bad I suppose, but it always made me wonder why people passed me by. Of the eight rides I had that day, only 3 were interesting. The first was with Ito Mariko, an outdoor lighting saleswoman, the only young woman[married] to pick me up so far), a van full of fun-loving people my age, and a student who was my ride into Kyoto, and took me straight to "Tani House". He spoke the best English of any of the drivers. Tani House is a budget traveler's dream house. Tani-sensei(Mrs. Tani) took it over after her husband died and since she doesn't really follow the old posted rules, she is very relaxed and accommodating. She and I struck it off right away. I was so happy to arrive in Kyoto. I have been studying Japanese culture( or at least Asian culture) for about seven years now, so I am excited to finally be in the city I have read so much about. Last night I took I quick shower after I set down my bag(about 9:30), and went to a nearby drinking place/restaurant. I had forgotten how to order what I wanted and they had no menus. With the help of the other customers, body language, and kindness of the couple that owned the place I had a great meal. After dinner I made it back to the dormitory and wrote a little before going to bed. Unfortunately I couldn't sleep very well and got up quite early, but that put me in a meditative mood for a day full of temple gazing.

This morning I toured the temple buildings of Daitokuji( one of the main temples of Zen Buddhism, and right next door to Tani). I took notes on the signs and happened upon the monthly celebration of Sen-no Rikyu's death. He was a famous teamaster, in fact THE teamaster of Japan. This day is celebrated by his family and students who dress in formal kimonos and gather at a few of the smaller temples in the complex to serve or drink tea. I wish I could have participated! On the grounds is Daisen-in which is famous for a rock garden that imitates water in its course from the mountains as a metaphor for life, and especially a spiritual life. It was very well done, and the monk gave a quick tour that he had memorized in English. On the grounds I also watched a memorial ceremony, and meditated in the room afterwards, looking out at another beautiful rock garden. I forgot to mention that at Daisen-in I also had a cup of (whipped) green tea prepared in much the same way as Sen-no Rikyu would have done. This afternoon I will go to another famous temple, though which one I have yet to decide. I plan to be here for at least six days. The dormitory is quite cheap(1700\), but I will also try to stay at one of the temples. I'll write again in a few days. Hope you had a good August.  

(cont.)
After sending you my last letter I walked down the street to
Higashi-Honganji.

[By the way this "Internet Cafe" is essentially "free".  For 2 hrs. you
required to buy one drink, minimum of \350($3-4).  A great price, even
in Japan!]

Higashi-Honganji and Nishi-Honganji are the two headquarters of Jodo
Shin-shu, the "Pure-Land" sect  of Buddhism founded by Shinran Shonin.
Unfortunately I arrived just as they were closing the inside altar
doors,. so I wasn't able to see the statues.  It was only 3:50!

Everything in Kyoto starts closing at 4pm( temples, museums, etc...).
My next stop was the National Museum which stops accepting visitors at
4pm( Aack!).  Across the street the Sanjusengendo closed at 5pm and looked
huge.  It cost \500 to enter at 4:20.  They closed the entrance at
4:30.I tried just giving a little over \400 , but the ladies wouldn't
budge( it was the rest of my change).  So Kyoto may not be such a
paradise, but I am making the most of it.
   After taking the subway back to Tani, I bathed and found a reasonable
sushi place.  I ordered only my favorites( though they didn't have any
"flying-fish eggs[tobiko]") and then went around the corner to add draft
beer to my stomach.  After that, which cost me less than my first
night's meal, I returned to the dormitory.
   That night I hung out with some of the other guests.  They were two
Japanese guys and a Korean.  They were all in Kyoto for a kind of study
vacation( like me!).
   We talked in Japanese, Korean, and a little English.  The Korean and
I taught one of the Japanese fellows, Yoichi, Korean.  We also tried to
work out how to say, "Shut the fuck up!" in many languages.  The
following are the rudest terms we came up with, with the help of the
multi-nationalities at Tani(use at your own risk!):

Korean: Ip dak Chul!
French: Ferme la bouche!
Russian: Muo(long vowels) Chat(ch)
German: Heinst moll(long vowel)
Japanese: Da ma rei!

The next morning(yesterday) I finally made it to Ryoanji.  Ryoanji is
famous for its rock garden, one of the biggest, subtlest, and beautiful
in the world.  It is believed to be the quintessential rock garden in a
country full of them.  I arrived at about 8:45( it opens at 8:30) well
before the crowds.  The ladies at the ticket booth were so impressed by
my clothes( I have been wearing my devote layperson clothes for my
temple visits, a kind of pilgrimage) that they let me in for free.  I
told them I wasn't a monk( a lot of Japanese confuse me for one.
   I took a ridiculous number of pictures of the garden and the pond
nearby.  Really incredible.  I even meditated a little beside the
garden.  I suspect some people took my picture but that may just be my
ego creeping in.  It was everything it is supposed to be, and more. A
visitor to Kyoto can't help but notice the commercialism surrounding the
temples.  There are fees for everything.  I even check ed into the
arranged temple stays and they were quite overpriced.  Especially
compared to Korea where you can stay for one night at any temple(just
about) for nothing.  As a woman at the tourist office put it "They are
businesses.  The monks are businessmen."  That is certainly true to an
extent.  Still the temples are spiritually inspiring and you can feel
"good energy" there.  Of course most of the temples still house
practicing monks, and there are always areas that are "off-limits".  In
fact those areas are much bigger than at the temples in Korea.  But also
the Korean temples are much smaller.
   Before I left Ryoanji I ate a small meal at a restaurant with a
private garden( rock and flora et al) bordering the pond of the temple.
It was a little expensive but had great ambiance.
   Next I walked down through Myoshinji to one of its smaller
sub-temples called Taisho-in.  It has a beautiful garden that reminds me
of Ome Gardens in Washington state( waterfall and everything).  Then I
took a local train to Nijo Castle.  It used to be the Shogun's
residence (other than Tokyo).  Sadly the main castle tower had burned down
in 1750 and was replaced with part of an imperial estate after the
castle was given to the imperial family following the Meiji Restoration
in 1893.  Nonetheless the receiving rooms of Nijo were kept the same as
when the Shogun used them.  The wall and screen paintings are valued
treasures and the sheer opulence of the successful Shoguns's lives were
impressive.  He had one room were in between meetings he would hang-out
with maids and ladies-in-waiting.  In fact only women were allowed in
the room.  Also intriguing was the mastery of the power and respect the
Shoguns maintained.  Whenever they met with the feudal lords, for
example, the Shogun sat on a raised platform with only a page, who held
his sword and relayed letters.  To the Shogun's left were usually two
huge doors with large red tassels on them.  Behind these waited a pack
of samurai bodyguards ready to jump in and protect their master.  This
must have really frustrated any lord who became angry at the Shogun.  He
looked unprotected, but in actuality he might as well have been
surrounded by guards.

That evening I went by the sushi take-out/delivery place and ordered a
huge platter of sushi for about $40.  Kind of opulent, but I was hoping
someone else would help pay for it.  I ended up eating two thirds of it.
I had never filled myself up on sushi, but there is a first time for
everything.  I drank beer with it too, and used a frightening amount of
wasabi( Japanese horseradish).

I have just gone on too long here.  I will have to continue in the next
installment.
As a preview let me say that today(Saturday) I went to Kinkakuji(the
gold temple), and Tofukuji.  Will write more Monday.

(CORRECTION: Mr. Tani of Tani House is not dead but very ill. I believe he had a stroke, for he is weakened considerably and his family has insisted on taking care of him at home though he was at the hospital for a while.)

I shall continue my trip narrative, but now let's take a moment of silence for Princess Diana.)

-I was quite surprised to hear of her death. Is it only me or doesn't the circumstances of their death appear a bit suspect? If Diana didn't have any children I would strongly suspect the whole thing was staged to get the press's attention off of them. (Think about it.)

I have been writing the first parts of my trip narrative before coming to the internet cafe. As I continue the chronicle of my travels I am sitting in the Yasaka Kaikan, next to "Gion Corner", waiting for another performance of traditional Japanese theater to begin. I am in the very back of the theater tucked snugly in a seat that is not made for my "big hip" as my students used to call it. There are about ten minute breaks between performances, which are free.

Friday night I hung out with the same people as he night before and some Germans. I shared my sushi and beer with some of them. A later addition to the group was a beautiful woman from Seoul. She had come back the Korean guy from Osaka. She was very nice and I think all of us were a bit smitten with her. Unfortunately she left the next day.

Saturday morning I took the two German guys to Kinkakuji, the "temple of the Gold Pavilion". It was their first temple to go inside as they have a severely tight budget. I think they were impressed. We arrived just as the gates opened(9:00). There was already a line and I imagine there was a solid flow of visitors all day. Kinkakuji is said to be the "most visited" temple in Kyoto. The gold leaf covers the walls of the top two floors of the pavilion five times thicker than it was originally. The layers result in a deep color capable of dense reflection. As it is surrounded on three sides by a large pond, it has a lot to reflect. I stayed a while after the Germans left to get their bags and continue their vacation. I sat near where everyone has their picture taken , and took a few pictures of them. Next I went to the net cafe again and took care of business. E-mail sure is an excellent way to keep in touch during a vacation. After sending off the second installment I visited Tofukuji(for worshipping tofu?). I saw some great gardens there and watched some more monks working. I haven't seen many monks in Kyoto as they stay behind closed doors for the most part. I saw more around Pomosa on any given day. That evening I spent drinking gin and juice with an East Indian physicist, who was the only other guest in the dormitory. We had a good intellectual chat. Sunday morning I slept in for the first time since my trip began. I got up a little before noon and made my way to Otowasan Kiyomizudera( which means,"Clear Water Temple on Sound-of-Feathers Mountain). Kiyomizu was founded in 778 a.d. by Enchin. It is one of the stops for devout followers of Avalokitesvara on pilgrimage. It is in perched high on the sides of the mountain supported by many pillars of Zelkova trees. It has a great view and I brought a charm their for travelers. The water from which it gets its name was indeed delicious, and I sat at a teashop near the waterfall and had a cup brewed from the sacred water. A Swedish professor sat with me and I showed her my pictures from Pomosa. Then I made my way down to Gion, the still thriving entertainment, and shopping district of Kyoto. Many of the original wood buildings( or well-crafted replicas) still stand along narrow winding alleys. The district around the theater where I started writing this still houses exclusive restaurants and teahouses. I walked the narrow alleyways hoping to catch a glimpse of a geisha, but I was disappointed. They are said to still exist, but I'll believe it when I see one( and it would only be by accident cause I couldn't even begin to afford one). I returned to Tani to an empty dormitory, and essentially finally had a room to myself. Today I made it to Nanzenji. It is another of the important temples here and was perhaps the best presented of any I have seen so far. It is a number of buildings all joined by covered walkways. The rock gardens are beautiful and the paintings still on the walls inside were impressive( though pictures of them were forbidden due to the effect of flashes). After that was Nanzenin, with its beautiful wet rock garden( meaning that it actually has water). Then I walked along "Philosopher's Path" which is dedicated to a professor from Kyoto University who spent his life attempting to combine Eastern and Western philosophies. Of the temples along it I also visited Honenin( nice and quiet with hard-working gardeners) and Ginkakuji which is the temple of the grandson of the samurai who built Kinkakuji. Though named the "Temple of the Silver Pavilion" the grandson decided not to show up his grandfather and resisted covering his building in leaf. The garden is bigger and has more levels than the others I have seen and instead of gravel heavy gray sand( ground granite I assume) is used as a base. This makes it even more difficult to rake, and more fragile. This adds to the impermanence of the garden in accordance with Buddhist philosophy. I was pleased to meet some pretty college students from Tokyo there but hesitated in taking their picture. Then back here. I leave tomorrow after a quick visit to a small temple near Tani House. See you in Tokyo!  

Here I am on Thursday the 4th in Tokyo. In Shinjuku, to be exact. Actually I am first writing this while sitting in "Espresso Americano, Seattle Style Coffee Shop". I ordered a Cafe Mocha with lots of chocolate and a little mint. He did okay. I would have preferred a double-tall decaf mocha, with mint, which would have come topped with steamed milk and whipped cream, not to mention sprinkles (in a tall glass) if it was really "Seattle Style". Instead I have a single caffeinated with steamed milk, in a small coffee cup. I imagine a great number of people come in here and just say,"coffee".

Let's....after leaving the Kyoto internet cafe I returned to Tani and had dinner with two exchange students from Germany. The two attractive young women are here for just six months. They are chemistry majors who will study on their own except for lab work. After dinner I talked for quite a while with a fellow native Californian. In the morning I took a picture of the wonderful Mrs. Tani and set out to find the onramp ( called the "interchange", "inter", or "I.C." in Japanese) for the intercity highway. Finding the I.C. is the most difficult part of hitch-hiking in Japan. Public transportation never seems to get you exactly there. I am always left searching for it for blocks after getting off the bus. I was finally "thumbing-it" at about 11 o'clock. Perhaps I mentioned that I bought a travel charm at Kiyomizudera. I also bought one at a shrine near the Imperial Palace, in the shape of a boar( long story). These I had tied onto my pack and hoped for the best. Well..Tuesday I received the blessings of the charms. My first ride was from a Jodo Buddhist a year younger than I with a collection of "Queen" cds. He was going to Nagoya( a trip that had taken three rides a week before). We got along very well, and he had even lived in a temple. We parted at a service area outside Nagoya, after he took our picture, which he vowed to send to my e-mail address. After fifteen minutes of standing forlornly near the exit of the service area, I bought an ice cream cone and sat near the main exit of the snack shop, in the shade, and displayed my sign prominently. As I licked I attempted to engage drivers in friendly conversation. After a few minutes a gruff, older fellow said, "You, Tokyo, let's go." I was a little stunned, but I guessed those charms had worked their magic yet again. He turned out to be an extremely friendly and gracious entrepreneur. He has six children( one boy) and is on his second wife( a Philipino). He does some business in Japan and owns a motel, restaurant, and some other businesses in the Philippines. We talked in Japanese and English. His English was rather good if you completely throw out the rules of grammar. His level of communication was good due to the international nature of his business, though he had never been to college or maybe even high-school. He definitely has the hardworking spirit to help Japan's economy recover. A real middle-class blue collar businessman. He dropped me off near the "Chuo" railway line that goes out to my host family's home in Hamura, after I convinced him Hamura was too far out of his way. My host mother, Keiko-san, picked me up at the station and everything was much as I had left it. Even the picture of us from five years ago was sitting in the living room. This time my room would be the tatami mat room, as they had moved their bedroom upstairs. I took a bath and when I finished my host father, Ichiro-san, had returned home from work( about 8 p.m.). We had a dinner like the wonderful ones I remembered from five years ago. Nothing beats Japanese home cooking when compared to the best Japanese restaurants. Rice, miso, and a variety of dishes always satisfy. On Wednesday I rested from Kyoto, and tonight Masashi will come for dinner. Tomorrow I plan to visit the priest at Ippoin, a small Zen sub-temple in Hamura. I had made friends with the priest when I had lived here before. I hope he remembers me. This weekend my host family and I will visit Nikko, a mountain resort.

Hello All!

Here it is, perhaps my last installment. I am just two days away from San Francisco. I will be staying with my friend David (Calderon) Vale, who went to my high-school, and visiting with Michael Kritscher, David "Mike" Hansen, and perhaps others. Before I start let's have a moment of silence for Mother Teresa....

I know she had been ill for quite a while, but it is amazing that her death comes on the heels of Princess Diana's. Particularly interesting when Di's charity life is being so emphasized in the press. I guess they even knew each other somewhat. It is sad that we are losing two such compassionate people. It has been quite a year for deaths. Consider Ginsberg, Burroughs, Sagan, and George Burns(this year?). I hope we all live as productive lives as they did( or more).

Okay...when I left off Thursday I was looking forward to Masashi coming to dinner at my host parent's house. He did come and my host parents liked him, and he them. We even took pictures with his digital camera, and hooked it up to the TV. The technology is so incredible that we could watch ourselves on TV to set up pictures. Masashi will be sending me pictures by e-mail, or I might copy them from his homepage. I hope to put them on MY homepage soon. One of my friends in Pusan, Jeff Lebow, was kind enough to set me up with a starter homepage. When I work it all out I'll give you all the address.

On Friday I visited the priest at Ippoin Temple in Hamura. He was surprised to see me, and didn't recognize me until he related me to the ink painting I had done for him of Vimalakirti( a famous Buddhist layman/saint). We had a great chat and he gave me some of his latest writings, including a huge book written entirely in Chinese characters. He is more confident in my work as a scholar than I am. He and I always seem to connect in some way, and this time it was his heavy study, and teaching about, Korean Buddhism. Unlike most temple priests here he is an avid scholar. He is working towards his doctorate in Buddhism. Later this month he is leading a study tour of Korea and China. I gave him the names of my friends at Pomosa Temple( where I lived for a year in Pusan). We exchanged addresses this time, and took pictures of each other, so we should keep in touch. I plan on writing( hopefully on computer) to friends in Korea and Japan, including some monks. This will complement my study of Asian culture and especially Buddhism.

On Saturday my host parents and I went to Nikko. Nikko in in the mountainous area of central Japan. It is a resort town, but most famous for the memorial shrine( Toshogu) of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the grandest shogun of them all. Parts of town look almost identical to any American resort/ski town. There are numerous gift shops, inns, and bed & breakfasts( ryokans). The buildings are often either log cabins or Victorian style. Driving on the side roads reminded me of going on self-guided historical homes tours with my parents. Before we arrived in central Nikko we stopped at part of the famous Cryptomeria( cedar) highway used by daimyo( feudal lord) processions to Toshogu. It is bordered by cedars hundreds of years old. This beautiful road was built by Matsudaira Masatsuna. The shrine itself, the neighboring temple, Rinnoji, were our next stop. They were beautiful,yet completely extravagant. My host mother, Keiko-san, bought me a wishing plaque and I wrote down my hopes for my future on it. In front of Rinnoji there is a small sub-temple with a beautiful pond and garden. If I have the chance I would like to build a modest Japanese garden when I retire, that people could visit and appreciate like the ones I have seen here. We stayed at Japan Total Club, a small resort where my host father's company is a member. That night and the next morning we had buffet meals. As you probably know I ate more than the price of the meal, which made me realize that I will be returning to Seattle slightly heavier than when I left( ugh!).

Sunday started with Kegon Falls, named after the Avatamsaka(Diamond) Sutra. The highest falls in Japan, 100m( 330 ft.), they are beautiful as they include a group of smaller falls about two-thirds of the way down. Then we drove down from the falls( elev. 800m) to Edo Mura, a tourist folk village. We saw a ninja performance, as well as some more traditional arts, and learned a bit about Japan's feudal history through some great dioramas and recreated buildings. Unfortunately most everything was in Japanese, as foreign tourists seldom visit. I think foreigners are probably even more scarce at the "Western Village" nearby. To top off the short trip we ate at Denny's when we got back. The menu is of course different from back home, but I could still order a good clubhouse sandwich.

Today and tomorrow I will visit tourist sites around Tokyo.

see some of you soon-BJ

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