The beautiful town of Bruges.
Instead of a history of Bruges, which you could probably find at http://www.ricksteves.com/, I'll present you with some Art History.
Many of the world's most famous painters were Flemish, including Rubens, who is probably still the richest artist who ever lived (richer even than Picasso). And it's funny, people talk about nudes being lofty art, but what Rubens made money at was delivering what his patrons wanted. That was two things: cheesecake (enter the nudes), and for their egos to be buttered up (this is typically hunting scenes depicting the Duke or whomever hunting wild beasts and looking manlier than in real life). Nude chicks were cheesecake even when you didn't have cameras, and you had to paint them, people. It's the truth.
While I was in Bruges I walked through a small museum there, the Groeninge Museum, which is primarily known for its collection of Flemish Primitives from earlier, super-wealthy times in Bruges history. And these just cracked me up! I had to try hard not to snigger disrespectfully at the many, many depictions of Biblical events. This was for two reasons: one, in the grand old tradition of patronage, the wealthy cloth merchant who had commissioned the painting would be off to one side, piously praying, present at the Adoration of the Magi, or in the crowd around the Baptism of Jesus (this was the way to butter them up in the 1400s-1500s).
And two, something easy to find in art history, a total lack of interest in depicting the landscape as it would really look in the Holy Land. For instance, a depiction of the Flight to Egypt, in the lush green countryside of Flanders. Um, yeah. I mean, back then you could hardly hop a jet or search on the web to see what it really looks like, so it's natural to just paint what you know. But it still is a hoot. I'm easily amused though; even a blond, blue-eyed Jesus is enough to make me chuckle.
Bruges is a nice town. It's extremely touristy, but you don't mind it. There's almost no language barrier since most Belgians speak at least four languages, so it's a really nice, easy place to start your travels if you've never been to Europe. Also it's very easy to get to from London and ease on down into the Continent. It's got an incredible load of shopping - most major brands. I was happy to find my favorite, The Body Shop, and pick up some shampoo and things. Also, the major brands of Belgian chocolate are well represented with at least two shops each - Godiva, Leonidas, Neuhaus. Also lots of smaller shops. I stopped in at Verbeke, a family-run shop recommended in Rick Steves' books. You know what? I'll take See's. But they were very nice.
And I must add, amusement aside, that the art really is incredible; the paintings are vibrant and beautiful, and of course the Flemish techniques are totally amazing. To an American, just to lay eyes on a 500 year-old painting is breathtaking. And it's really wild to be here, where it all happened, where the artists lived, and where they envisioned the Flight to Egypt. The Europeans live with all this history every day, but it leaves me dazzled. And with Bruges looking so medieval, it was easy to imagine the artist with his egg yolks or his linseed oil and brushes working in the afternoon light.
I will be so excited, by the way, whenever I see a ferret in a painting. They pop up occasionally in hunting scenes (they have been used for rabbit-hunting for centuries) or as pets (trendy in the Victorian era). But that's just me. And, hooray! I have a few photos up and organized. You can just go to http://geocities.datacellar.net/minsq and I have links to photos of Valbonne and of Bruges. I hope you enjoy 'em. It's back to France for the weekend for me, actually a three-day weekend because All Saint's Day is a holiday for KPN. And I found an apartment I can lease for three months here in outer Brussels, so now I can bring some more stuff and make myself at home. Take care, everyone. Ciao!
M i n s q
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