Travel

 

Edinburgh

 

Last visited:-     20 November 2005

Last updated:-  11 December 2005

 

I’m ending up in Edinburgh a lot more these days. I’d gone off it for a while after moving to London, mainly because I’d been going there weekend in, weekend out for ages while I still lived up in Dundee. However, these days the scene has changed enough to be giving it a second chance. Prices are high for Scotland, but still give those of us with London purse strings a breath of fresh air.

 

Accommodation

As with Manchester, I generally stay with friends so I can’t speak for accommodation prices and quality. Several gay-owned B&B’s operate so it might be worth checking out the BearScots website. I’ve not stayed at former Mr Bear Scotland, Scott’s place, but it’s always been highly recommended. And if anyone knows if the place I stayed at once on Dublin Street is still operating, let me know.

 

Bars

I was warned that the Newtown Bar had gone downhill. I’ll agree it’s not the Bear Bar it used to be (what is?) but I still get a friendly welcome (if not a hearty recognition, but then I hadn’t been there in over 4 years…). Prices are very reasonable, look out for Happy Hour!) and they’ve got a great selection of whiskies. And that’s not just because I’ve spent the last 4 years in Bells hell down here in London…! Opening hours vary – they seem to be licensed late, but don’t seem to make the most of it during the week, closing up around normal times. There are horrifying rumours of a Coleherne-level make-over, but hopefully that's all they are.

 

The up-and-coming bar in Edinburgh has to be The Regent. I’m not sure if they’re pushing for the “Bear Bar” image, but I suspect they’re getting it anyway. Very friendly, and very busy at the weekends from what I’ve seen. Again, very reasonable (compared to London prices). They’ve got standard opening hours, but remember this is Scotland so they’re sensible!

 

The Claremont Bar seems to still be going strong and is still hosting the BearScots nights the first Saturday of the month. However, I haven't been to a specific night there in 5 years. We did swing by on a Sunday, but we were the only folks in the place.

 

There are plenty other bars around, but I have never been in any of them. When I lived up there they all had a reputation for being full of attitude. I’m told that's still the case, so probably best to avoid.

 

Clubs

I have a confession. I’d never clubbed in Edinburgh. Not unless you count the dance floor downstairs in the Newtown. Now, however, I can thoroughly recommend Burly (at least, it's Edinburgh night). Frankly I'm getting a bit tired of the scene's assertion that all Bears and their like want sex and darkrooms, so it was a refreshing breath of air to finally find a club that's about the dancing and socialisation, rather than the sex. Music policy wasn't entirely to my taste, but there again, it wasn't so pervasive that you couldn't hold a conversation. I’m told Alan Joy’s clubs are still great (Joy and Mingin) but, unfortunately can’t speak from personal experience. Once again, I have to say… watch this space.

 

Eating Out

Yes, yes. All the regulars are there. But, it seems, rapidly disappearing. The Burger King with the best view in the country (on Princes Street, looking straight over at the castle) has shut, but there’s still one at the other end of the street, opposite the Balmoral Hotel. There seems to be less McDonalds there too. Not a bad thing obviously. Starbucks is everywhere, but Subway hasn’t taken off in Scotland the way it has down South.

 

However, Edinburgh is that rare place. Somewhere you don’t want fast food. A leisurely plate of nachos in the Blue Moon Café is more the style there. And they’re good, though last tasted a couple of years ago. The café’s and restaurants down Broughton Street are, almost by definition, gay-friendly, but often change hands. I used to go to one a lot, but it seems to have disappeared.

 

For a proper meal out, I was taken to the SmokeStack recently, and thoroughly enjoyed it, reaching that magical place of “full up” before the desserts.

 

The best Indian in the country is in Edinburgh… and I can’t remember it’s name! It’s on Leith Walk, at the junction with London Road. Very attentive service and I couldn’t fault a thing.

 

Post-intoxication food is also best at the whole Leith Walk/ London Road/ Broughton Street mega-junction. Of course, being Scotland it’s all deep fried. And why not? From deep fried pizza to that most wonderful of delicacies the (deep fried) white pudding. There are several chippies around there and they’re all great (as Lorraine Kelly would say. Possibly.). Just remember that one Edinburgh curiosity. It’s salt ‘n’ sauce, not salt ‘n’ vinegar…

 

Taxi Firms

Erm. I’ll get back to you on that one. To be honest, I’m not sure of the “minicab” status in Scotland. I seem to remember that there’s no difference between black cabs and standard cars, that they’re all on the same tariff and legal status, but that may just be Dundee. Or my memory playing tricks. Anyone care to remind me…?

 

Night Buses

Exist but only on a very few routes.

 

Getting There

Trains from London (GNER from Kings Cross to Edinburgh Waverley) take about 4-5 hours depending on the number of stops.

 

Coaches (National Express from Victoria to St Andrew’s Square) take for ever. Don’t even think about it!

 

Edinburgh Airport is a 30 minute bus ride or huge cab fare to the city centre.

 

 

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