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Fabric Requirements: The required fabric measurements given in the instructions are approximations, and are in greater amounts than actually needed to construct a given garment. If you're like me, you'll be glad to have bought more than enough material to accomodate the pattern. Spandex stretches more either left to right, or top to bottom, so determine this before you buy it. Just give the fabric a pull in both directions and note which stretches more (this is called the greatest stretch of fabric). All of the patterns on the site indicate the greatest stretch of fabric and you must lay out the pattern according to it for the garment to fit properly. I suggest that you take a printout of the pattern and instructions with you when you buy the material. Lay the pattern out on the fabric before you get it cut to determine if you have enough. Swimwear Lining: Most fabric stores sell swimwear lining. It is usually tan in color and has a greater stretch than spandex. Use it when you sew light-colored fabrics and don't want the suit to be see-through when wet. Most light-colored spandex (white, yellow, lime green) is quite translucent when wet, so be sure to test a swatch of fabric before you sew your garment. Some of my patterns have instructions for lining the front of the suit. If you don't want the rear to be see-through either, cut a piece of lining the same size as the seat and pin or baste it to the fabric before you sew. Percentage of Stretch: The stretch of the fabric you are using must have at least 75% stretch one way and 50% stretch the other way. To check the stretch, fold the fabric about 6 inches from the edge and place it next to a ruler. Grip the fabric at the beginning of the ruler with your left hand and at 10 inches (25 cm)with your right. Stretch your right hand out as far as it will go without straining, leaving your left hand where it is. Fabric with 50% stretch will stretch to 15 inches (37.5 cm), and fabric with 75% stretch will stretch to 17 inches (42.5 cm). Cutting Spandex: Layers of spandex can be difficult to cut because it is slippery. The best way I've found is to use a rotary blade cutter and mat. You can find these at most any fabric store. The cutter works like a utility knife that has a round, rotating blade. It makes cutting curves a breeze and you can use a ruler to guide straight cuts. The mat is plastic and it "self-heals" cuts so they don't show. Buying Spandex: Spandex may be difficult to find in some small towns. Most fabric stores stock spandex in the swimwear section. Be prepared for limited selection of colors and patterns. Costume and theatre stores are also a good place to buy spandex. Check out the hotlinks page to see some links to fabric retailers online. Starting Stitch: The best way to start a stitch is to put the fabric under the presserfoot and lower it. Next stitch just 3 or 4 stitches with the foot pedal or by rolling the handwheel. This secures the thread to the fabric. Then you can pull the loose thread ends to help feed the fabric through. Backstitching: Most of the instructions don't mention backstitching, but the use of a backstitch will create stronger seams. Create backstitching by simply sewing about 8 stitches forward, then shift the machine into reverse, sew backward 8 stitches and again forward for 8 more. Use backstitching at the beginning and end of every seam to prevent stitches from unravelling. Stretching As You Sew: spandex needs to be stretched as you sew otherwise the stitches can break when the garment is worn. It's easier to control the stretch if you sew in small sections about 6 inches (15 cm) long. Get a good grip on the fabric and pull it toward you it when the needle is down. Then sew slow and steady as you stretch it. This is especially useful when sewing elastic. Serger Seams: Many of you have suggested using a serger to create faster, stronger seams. A serger will definitely cut down the time spent creating these garments and will give them a longer life and more professional look. If you have a serger you can eliminate the zigzag stitching and serge the seams instead. Twin Needle Sewing: A twin needle gives garments a professional touch, because it sews 2 seams at one time, spaced perfectly apart.A twin needle can be found in most fabric stores and most sewing machines support its use. Refer to your machine's manual for threading. Use only on straight topstitching. Underwear That's Fun-to-wear: You can make any of these suits as underwear. Simply disregard instructions for lining the suit. If you prefer, you can use cotton/spandex fabric instead of nylon/spandex. Be sure to wash cotton/spandex fabric before you cut it to prevent shrinkage. |
