The one issue that affects us all is covering up the facial hair. It's often the great
dividing line between passing and getting unmasked - a most unpleasent experience, as we all know!
This little transcript doesn't guarentee you success if you intend to walk into the mall on a
crowded Saturday afternoon for that extended shopping expedition. Good genetics will get you farther.
What I will tell you about are some things I do to make my facial hair disappear for a while. At
least until I'm through with electrolysis.
I was presented with several different methods when I first started following my destiny
and allowing my woman inside to manifest herself. I remember the first timid visit to a theatrical
makeup shop - I was lucky to find a sympathetic esthetician wo had worked in Hollywood and was familiar
with working with the TG community. I still use the beard cover creme she recommended - but only when
I do a photo shoot. The simple fact of the matter is that all foundations - including those wonderful
creme stick greasepaints that hide our facial hair, are, in a few words - TOO LIGHT FOR OUR
COMPLEXIONS. You know what I mean - those terrfic cremes maybe hide your beard, but you wind up looking
like a mime. So unless you are planning on reinventing Marcel Marceau, let's get down to basics.
CHOOSING THE FOUNDATION
First of all you need to find a foundation that is right for your complexion. This is not as difficult
as it may seem. Our complexions fall into a few basic types:
-yellow: very typical of blondes. Your foundation will have a somewhat pinkish tone.
-olive: This is mine. Any Mediterranean stock, this will be yours. Also, Hispanic.
-china: what I call a pale, almost translucent look. Redheads, Celtic, fall tend to
fall in here. Note: I'm a redhead, but part Mediterranean heritage puts me into
the olive class. Illustrates the variables involved here.
You may want to get some help here - I did my first time, and it saved me alot of lost
time in experimentation. Many estheticians - or make-up experts- a fairly new certification which has branched out
from cosmetology - are happy to help. And they will NOT judge - after all, business is business.
Check word of mouth in your area. Or check links on the 'Net.
Once you have an idea, you will want to purchase the following items at a store. More likely, you
will have more success going to a larger theatrical outlet. These items can also be purchased over
the 'Net. See my links page for some suggestions.
Number 11 Grease Paint. Also known as "Indian Makeup". Stein's Velvet Stick is a
common brand avialable. Another is MAx Factor Pan Stick N-11, although this one seems to be
difficult to find lately. The sum total of this wonder is that it will make you look like a
foil for cowpokes on the Western Channel - but also cover your beard in the process.
Basic Foundation. This is the Foundation cover you selected in the paragraph mentioned
above. Stay away from drug store makeups - they really don't work. Go for the better department
store products - Clinique, Clarins, Bobby Brown, MACS, to mention a few. Or, go to the theatrical
houses and go for Ben Nye products. I also use Joe Blasco, but find that Nye is always available,
no matter where I go.
Beard Cover stick. Yes, this has it's place - but not necessarily to cover your
beard. It should be a shade or two darker than your basic foundation.More on this..
Red Greasepaint Rouge. Ben Bye makes a nice basic one for only a few dollars. This
will be your most important purchase. It's the key to allowing your makeup artistry to look natural
as opposed to clownish. Unless, of course, you are dead set on being a mime...
Face Powder/Pressed Powder. Yes, there is a difference. The face powder will stay
at home. The packed will go with you for touch ups. (If you can't/arent going out, the pressed
isn't necessary). You also want a powder puff - a GOOD one - and a number 4 brush for applying.
A note here - the powder is VITAL - and I mean VITAL - to setting your "face". Don't skimp here!
Cold Cream - You don't have to get Pond's - the big economy jars wok just as well
and won't damage your skin. You go through this stuff pretty fast, so get alot.
These are the minimums necessary in preparing your face. After doing this for a while,
you will begin to learn how to apply different "looks" for yourself depending on your mood.
And you will want different shades of foundation if you start experimenting. But for most of us,
what I have mentioned above will get you started. Once you have these, you will be able to do
either a "day face", a "night face", or a "photo face". And you WILL be able to nearly eliminate
your beard to the point that, at least in the evening, you will seem to be the smooth faced
girl you know you are!
THE PROCEDURE
1) The Really, Close, Shave.
Unless you have opted for laser surgery or electrolysis...
Central to success in covering your beard is shaving as close as possible. No matter
how furry, it is possible to get off a good deal of hair. One of the first secrets is:
let it grow! If you are going out at night, skip the morning shave, and let it get shaggy.
A paradox of the close shave is that it is easier to cut close if it's longer. I can't explain,
it just is. If you have used dipliatories on your body hair, you know all about this.
Now that it's afternoon/evening, and you are ready to shave, the next thing is:
DON'T USE SHAVING CREME!
Yup - it doesn't work as well. I'd advise one of two things: hair conditioner, or Moisturizing
Facial Creme. This will not only lubricate, but help stand up the longer hairs so they are
easier to mow down. Apply the stuff in liberal amounts, UPWARDS and aginst the grain of your
beard. This is a key motion you will use in all of your foundation work, so get used to it.
This allows the stuff to get in among the hairs.
Next, use a fresh razor, shave as you normally would. Then, shave agina, woth careful,
upwards strokes against the grain of the beard. This is the key to getting a really close
shave. Be careful, and TAKE YOUR TIME! You will bleed far less, and get more hair. Once
you are done, splash cold water on your face, and go relax with a glass of wine or your favorite
beverage.
After a few minutes, take some more facial creme, and apply to your entire face. This
will soothe and moisturize your skin, and make it alot easier to apply your makeup. Let it be
absorbed by your skin for a few minutes (maybe finish that wine!).
There is an alternative to this. Find an old-time barber - and get a straight blade
shave from him. The old-timers will give you a shave so close, you will swear your face is
a babies bottom. It works - but they are a dying breed, not easy to find in rural areas,
and ultimately, not all that practical MOST of the time. But they DO work.....
Then, four easy steps to total coverage:
1) Apply the #11 panstick. Ever put on "war paint" as a kid or attempt to mimic
aboriginal warriors? Or finger painting? That's how you are going to apply
this stuff. In streaks - you don't want to cake it in a layer. Do this to your entire
beard growth area. Pay attention to the upper lip, and the areas of most growth, usually
around your chin. That done, then, using your finger tips, blend and spread the streaks
UPWARD AGAINST THE GRAIN of your beard. When, you are finished, you will have a thin
area covering your beard. DO NOT spread it beyond this area. What you are doing is
using dark tones to conceal. Light tones will bring out a feature. This is due to the
way the human eye works.
2) Apply your skin foundation. In the same way, apply your foundation to the uncovered facial
areas. This is why I avoid liquids, as do many estheticians. A secret here is to
apply it to your eye lid areas, both above and below the eye. in equal measure. This will
help your eyeshadow go on smoother. (See EYES). Lastly, carefully blend the dividing lines
of the two areas so they shade gradually into one another.
3) Apply the red grease paint. lightly dab in dots, and spread in a simialer manner over your entire
face. This will prevent your face from looking whitish and give it a natural color. You
may have noticed that many of us appear to have pale, whitish complexions in pictures. This
simple step will avoid the drawn out look. Be careful here - a little goes a long way.
4) Lastly - take your powder. Open the cap, shake out a thin layer in the cover. Using the
puff, dab into the powder, then on your face. Work it over your entire face. This
will cut down on the shininess and give your whole face a natural color.
Step back and admire your work. You should see a smooth faced, natural complected girl.
Removing it is simple - gob on cold cream from that big jar you bought. Then use kleenixs, and
wipe it all off. Your skin will like the moisturizing property of the cold cream. This can
be taken a step further with the eyes - and I do - by using special eye makeup remover.
I use the one by Lancome - costs more, but it's worth it with the eyes.
Now on to eyes and then lips...
NOTE:
If you are going to be getting pictures taken under lights, go darker on all the above steps.
When I am doing a photo shoot. I add another layer over steps one and two before applying the
rouge in step three. This is because the bright photographers lights pale you out. If you
have ever been in a TV studio or movie set, or seen News people doing a live broadcast, you
can see how dark their makeup seems in natural light. Doesn't on the screen though.
TIPS:
-The above is for the evening. In the daytime, I use a darker foundation, spread it evenly,
put on light eyeshadow, light on the lipstick, and then out the door. I basically leave out
steps #1 and #3 and apply step two to my entire face. Then I'm good for the day.
-All of this is easier when your skin is smoother, and/or if you are darker - either
by skin color, or tanned. Good skin care will go a long way towards helping your cause here.
Check the tips on skin care, and consider CAREFULLY acquiring and keeping a good tan.
-Don't waste your money on drug store quality cosmetics - I can't emphasize this enough!
- Can't find #11 greasepaint? In a pinch, I've used darker burgundy shades of Max Factor
LIPSTICK - yep - and it worked. Others have used blue eye shadow. The trick is
to use a darker coler to conceal. Beards are actually bluish in color, which is
why beard covers are traditionally called blue concealers
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