Clogged sink and lavatory drains are probably the most frequent plumbing problem for homeowners. Usually the problem is not in the system, but with the system's users. Clogs in the drainage system of your home occur mostly in two areas: the traps and the waste drain pipes to which the traps connect. Traps and drain pipes are intended to handle liquids not solids. Hair, bits of soap, food scraps, and grease flowing into the system can clog a drain. When water or waste won't run out of a sink, lavatory, tub, or toilet, called "fixtures", the debris blocking the route usually is in the trap. If so, the unclogging process is simple. If the debris is in the drain pipe you may be able to unclog it if:

The blockage is not too compacted in the pipe and the debris is near enough to the trap that a suction cup plunger or plumber's auger (snake) can reach it. The blockage is in a pipe near enough to a clean-out plug (a capped opening) that may be cleared with a plumber's auger.

ABOUT DRAIN PIPES

Drainage of waste and sewage is done through a network of pipes that transports waste from fixtures and appliances to a sewer or septic system. The drain pipes in your home drain via gravity. The pipes are not under any water pressure so you don't have to turn off the water to work on a drain system. All fixtures (sinks, bathtubs, lavatories) that drain into a vent stack (main drain) are fitted with traps. Traps usually are the problem when the system won't drain.Traps have curved configurations to hold water. This water forms a seal to keep out sewer gases, which can be unhealthy as well as causing awful odors. The water seal also deters crawling creatures from entering a fixture from the sewer line. The main drain line will not only have a trap in it just before it leaves the building, it will also have a vent stack, which goes up through the roof of the house.

DRAIN MAINTENANCE

The steps for clearing a clogged sink or lavatory drain pipe should proceed from the easiest to the most difficult to perform. Begin by plunging the drain. The air pressure this causes can dislodge blockages. If that doesn't work, use a plumber's auger to rout the clog out. Chemical drain cleaners are not recommended. Mechanical procedures are usually more effective. However, if you are going to use chemical drain cleaner, follow directions on the container carefully, and wear goggles, heavy rubber gloves and protective clothing. Chemical drain cleaners can relieve a clogged drain but need a small flow of water to be effective.

CAUTION: Chemical drain cleaners can be dangerous to your plumbing system. Follow directions and warnings on the container before use. If your home has a septic system, make sure the product states that it is safe for such a system. Chemicals in some drain cleaners destroy the bacterial action in a septic system.

Preventive Maintenance

The first step in drain maintenance is to avoid clogs. A kitchen drain , which clogs more frequently than others, can be kept open by keeping grease and debris out of the sink. Pour grease from pans into a tin can to be thrown in the trash. Pouring hot water down the drain for a minute a day will help clear the trap and drain pipe. All lavatory sinks should have small filtered screens to catch hair and soap pieces before they go down the drain and cause clogs. If none of the preventive methods help, the steps to follow for unclogging a drain are as follows:

1. Prepare to use a plunger by pouring a quart of boiling water mixed with a cup of ammonia into the drain and allow to sit for thirty minutes. Boiling water and ammonia will loosen a clog.

2. Block all openings that are part of the sink or lavatory setup. Stuff wet rags in any overflow holes or in the drain of the adjacent sink of a double sink.

3. Apply a think layer of petroleum jelly on the rim of the plunger to create a tighter seal between the rubber cup and the drain.

4. With two to three inches of water in the basin, place the plunger over the drain hole. Use steady, rhythmic, and forceful downward strokes to clear the clog. Try ten strokes at a time then test the water flow down the drain. Use up to fifty strokes. If clear, run hot water for a few minutes to flush any clog residue.

5. If plunging doesn't work, drop and clean the trap.

6. If the trap is clean and the pipes are blocked, try clearing the pipe with a plumber's auger. Different sizes are available.

7. If you can't reach the blockage with an auger, call a professional plumber. The pro probably will rod the drain pipe down through the vent stack on the roof of your home.

BLOCKAGE AT STRAINERS AND STOPPERS

Blockages located at the drain's strainer (kitchen sinks) or stoppper (lavatories and bathtubs) are very common plumbing problems.

Clearing Strainers. To clear the blockage, remove the strainer by prying it up and out with the tip of a standard screwdriver. Don't bend or mar the strainer. Floor drains in a basement or garage, are removed with a pry bar. Some strainers are held by screws. Remove the screws and pry around the strainer with the tip of a screwdriver or knife. Then clean the strainer and wipe away any debris at the top of the strainer base.

Clearing Stoppers. Stoppers may be removed in several different ways. Some stoppers are opened and then removed by turning the stopper with your fingers. Some come out by unscrewing a pivot rod that is connected to the opener/closer. You may need pliers here. If so, pad the jaws of the pliers with cloth or adhesive bandages so you don't damage the chrome finish. After the stopper is out, clean it at the base of the drain opening. If sink, lavatory, and/or tub blockages occur frequently, give all drains a weekly dose of boiling water and ammonia followed by plunging as preventive maintenance.

CLOGGED TRAPS

Traps are the primary drain blockers in most residential drainage systems. The good news is that traps are easier to clean than many mechanical stoppers. Before disassembling a trap, try a plunger first. Plug the overflow drain (if the fixture has one) with a wet cloth to increase the suction of the cup. Put the suction cup directly over the drain opening and fill the basin with two inches of water. The water acts as a seal and adds suction to the cup. Work the handle up and down forcefully.

Cleaning the Trap. If suction won't work, remove the trap below the fixture. The trap is held by two large chromed or plastic couplings. You may be able to loosen the couplings by hand. If not, use a pipe wrench and pad the ridges in the jaws of the wrench with cloth so the jaws do not damage the chrome finish. Once loosened, the couplings slide up or down and the trap can be removed. The trap piece telescopes into the fixture's tailpiece and the beginning of the drain pipe. Be gentle with the pipe wrench - they have lots of torque and can easily bend and damage the pipes and the fittings. Just loosen the coupleling on its threads and complete the removal job by using your hands.

Clean-out plugs. If a trap has a square or hex plug in the base of the bend, you can unscrew it to clean debris from the trap instead of removing the trap itself. Use a bent-out wire coat hanger for this job. As you clean the trap, check it for wear. Metal or plastic (traps are one or the other) can wear thin and start to leak. If you spot wear, replace the trap. If the trap is clear and the drain still plugged , run an auger down through the fixture drain hole, maneuvering it so it goes around bends. If this doesn't work and the trap has a plug in the base, remove the plug and insert the auger through the hole. If there isn't any plug in the trap, remove the trap. The object is to get the end of the auger against the clog (which is probably in the drain pipe extension or stub-out) and break up the clog by pushing the auger back and forth in a twisting motion. Clean-out plugs are spaced in the run of big drain pipes. The plugs are usually on vertical pipes (sometimes horizontal) in a basement or crawl space. Often the plugs/pipes are accessible outdoors along the foundation of the house. You may find them in a garage or pantry closet. The drain pipes are capped with a steel disk with a spare fitting on the top of the disk. The spare fits a wrench. Have a waste bucket handy when opening this port. Then insert an auger into the pipe both ways: up and down. Break-up any debris within reach. If you can't reach it, call a pro. A garden hose can substitue here for an auger. Remove the nozzle and turn on full blast.

If your house is older, the bathtub drain system may be equipped with a drum trap. Look on the bathroom floor under a tile, perhaps. The trap may be in the floor in the basement or crawl space. Clean this trap by removing the lid and clear it similar to a clean-out plug or trap as detailed above.

CLOGGED TOILET DRAINS

The problem here is often too much tissue at time of flush. You might trace the clog to a flushed washcloth, sponge, towel, or bath toy. To clear a toilet, first try a plunger to break up tissue clogs. If ineffective, use a closet auger with a corkscrew point on the end to open the toilet. This tool is very flexible and turns easily into the trap in the bowl to snag the object. Before working with the closet auger, use a cup and waste bucket to remove as much debris from the bowl as possible. You can protect your hand and arm by sticking both into a heavy plastic garbage bag. Move the closet auger under and down the bowl to the blockage and then pull out the blockage. Avoid pushing it down through the trap. If it goes into the main drain, the drain can get clogged: the object probably won't dissolve itself through flushing. If you can't reach the clog with the auger and if there's a clean-out plug under the toilet, remove the plug and auger the pipe. Be prepared with a large bucket for trickle-down of lots of water and debris.

CLOGGED APPLIANCE TRAPS

A dishwasher, clothes washer, and garbage disposer also have traps that sometimes get clogged.

Dishwasher Problems. For a dishwasher, you may be able to remove the drain port cover and thread a slim rod or auger down the drain pipe to clean the trap. If you can get under the machine, you may be able to drop the trap and clean it. However, a clogged trap/pipe may not be the problem. A malfunctioning drain valve solenoid can be the trouble-maker. Call a pro for this.

Another dishwasher clogging problem may be the strainer at the bottom of the dishwasher inside the machine. The strainer,(usually metal but sometimes plastic) can easily be removed for cleaning. Just lift out the strainer, which is in two parts or halves. Then clean out the ports under a tap and rinse. You can avoid clogged strainer problems by properly cleaning dishes, glasses, pots, pans, etc., before you put them into the dishwasher for washing. A dishwasher is not a garbage disposer.

Clothes Washer Problems. Washing machine drainage problems are traced to two things: an improperly set control on the panel of the machine (make sure the machine and the timer have gone through a complete cycle), or a block in the discharge hose or trap. Inspect the hose for any blockage or kinks or severe bends in the hose. A good way to check the hose for blockage is to remove it from the machine. Use a screwdriver if it's held with a worm clamp - pliers if it's held with a spring clamp. Remove clogging material with a wood rod or by aiming the end of a faucet into the hose opening and turning on the faucet to force out debris. If the washer problem is a clogged trap, remove the drain hose, insert an auger in the pipe and run the auger down through the trap and pipe.

Garbage Disposer Problems. Garbage disposers have traps similar to sinks. If the disposer is clogged, it probably will be in the trap. You can avoid disposer clogging problems by using plenty of water during the disposer's food-grinding cycle. Don't skimp on water. The water flushes away the ground-up debris in the disposer. If the disposer is connected to the sink drain, you will have to remove the connection and pipe and clean out the pipe or the sink trap/pipe.Because a slurry of garbage tends to stick to the inside of the disposer drain line and hold moisture, the drain from the disposer to the main drain tends to rust or corrode much more quickly than, for example, the drain from a sink. It's a good idea to remove the drain line of a disposal unit every two or three years and clean it out. It is a messy job, but it will ensure a longer life for the drain line and save you clogging problems. You will have to replace the gaskets in the slip joints when you disassemble the drain, and some of the slip couplings may have deteriorated and also require replacement.

* How-To Booklet #8 for Fred Meyer by Creative

Homeowner Press, 24 Park Way, POBox 38,

Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458.

Consult State and local codes , observe safety precautions.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this brochure has been furnished by the National Retail Harware Association. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither the N.H.R.A. nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this booklet.

HOW TO REPAIR A FAUCET* STYLE: STEM TYPE / PROBLEM: Water drips from faucet spout

CAUSE: Worn or damaged seat washer

SOLUTION: replace faucet

PROBLEM: Corroded or worn seat

SOLUTION: regrind/replace

PROBLEM: Worn or damaged stem washer

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Worn stem

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Worn seat diaphragm

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Water leaks from handle base

CAUSE: Worn or damaged "O" rings

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Worn stem packing

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Faucet chatters or squeals when used

CAUSE: Loose or damaged stem screws

SOLUTION: tighten or replace

PROBLEM: Loose stem

SOLUTION: tighten

PROBLEM: Worn stem washer

SOLUTION: replace

STYLE: BALL-TYPE FAUCET

PROBLEM: Water drips from faucet spout

CAUSE: Worn or damaged seats

SOLUTION: replace

CAUSE: Weak springs

SOLUTION: replace

CAUSE: Worn or damaged ball

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Leakage at spout handle

CAUSE: Worn cam

SOLUTION: replace

CAUSE: Worn cam seat

SOLUTION: replace

CAUSE: Loose or damaged adjusting ring

SOLUTION: Tighten if loose; replace if damaged

PROBLEM: Leakage at bottom of spout handle

CAUSE: Worn or damaged body "O" rings

SOLUTION: replace

STYLE: CARTRIDGE FAUCET:

PROBLEM: Water drips from faucet spout

CAUSE: Worn or damaged body "O" rings

SOLUTION: replace

CAUSE: Corroded or worn cartridge

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Leakage at faucet handle

CAUSE: Worn or damaged body "O" rings

SOLUTION: replace

PROBLEM: Water leaks from spout or handle

CAUSE: Worn or damaged disc seals

SOLUTION: replace

Ball-Type Faucet Repair

1. Shut off water supply valves then drain lines by turning faucet on.

2. Use an allen wrench to loosen the set screw holding the handle in place and remove handle

. 3. Loosen and remove the adjusting ring by using the special wrench provided in the repair kit.

4. To remove cap, use pliers and turn counterclockwise. Protect cap finish with cloth.

5. Remove spout assembly.

6. Remove cam assembly by pulling up on ball shaft. You may need to use pliers.

7. Removing seats and springs is best done by inserting a pencil or sharp tool into the seat assembly and gently lifting it out. Check and clean inlet ports before replacing seats and springs.

8. To replace "O" rings on body, use a sharp tool to pry away from body. Roll new correct size "O" ring into place.

9. When reassembling, be sure to align slot in ball with pin in body and key on cam with slot in body.

10. Hand-tighten the cap, then screw adjusting ring into place with special wrench and replace handle. Turn on water and check for leaks. If necessary, further tighten adjusting ring.

Cartridge-Type Faucet Repair

1. Shut off water supply valves then drain lines by turning faucet on.

2. Pry off ddecorative cover and remove screw cap.

3. Pull spout assembly off.

4. Pull retainer clip from its slot.

5. Using pliers, lift cartridge out of body. Note position of cartridge ears so that when replacing, they are in identical position.

6. Remove "O" rings by prying away from body and rolling new ones into place, or replace entire cartridge.

7. Reverse procedure for re-assembly.

Disc-Type Faucet Repair

1. Shut off water supply valves and drain lines by turning faucet on.

2. Lift handle up as far as possible and loosen set screw.

3. Lift handle off and unscrew cap.

4. Loosen screws holding ceramic disc cartridge in body and lift cartridge out.

5. On underside of cartridge are the set of seals that should be replaced. Check and clean inlet ports.

6. Reassemble by reversing above procedure, being sure cartridge holes align with inlet ports.

Stem-Type Faucets

1. Shut off water supply valves then drain lines by turning both faucet handles on.

2. Pry off decorative cap on handle and remove screw holding handle.

3. Gently pry off handle with a screwdriver or use a faucet handle puller.

4. Use pliers or wrench to remove stem locknut/bonnet.

5. Depending on style of faucet, either unscrew stem or lift up to remove stem cartridge from faucet body.

6. To replace stem washer, remove brass screw and replace washer.

7. To resurface a worn or pitted faucet seat, insert faucet reseating tool. Press lightly and turn handle clockwise several times. Check for smoothness and be sure to remove fillings with a damp cloth.

8. To remove an old seat, use faucet wrench and turn counterclockwise, then lift out. When installing a new seat, use pipe joint compound on outside threads of seat to ensure a good seat.

9. Leaks at the faucet handle can usually be stopped by replacing the packing washer. If you do not have or cannot get the correct washer, string packing can be wound around the stem clockwise, using 1-1/2 times as much thickness as would be required to fill the packing nut. When the nut is tightened, the packing compresses into solid form and acts as a seal.

10. Newer cartridge stems simply require the replacement of "O" rings to eliminate leaks.

* 1992 Plumb Shop, Southfield, MI 48034

CORRECTING COMMON PAINT PROBLEMS* Here are tips and suggestions on how to correct common paint problems. Homeowners all over the country experience these types of problems. Take the time to read the instructions carefully and follow them, and you can correct many of the paint problems around your home. STAINED SPOTS FROM RUSTING NAIL HEADS Nail heads can rust and create spots on painted surfaces in your home. This problem is caused by using uncoated steel nails where excessive moisture exists under the paint. The uncoated steel nails obviously cannot be removed, but you can correct the moisture problem. Try to locate the source of excessive moisture. Check for leakage from the eaves, evaporation from nearby plumbing pipes, sweating caused by heat from a bathroom or kitchen. If you can locate the source of moisture, try eliminating the problem by shutting off the condensation that causes the moisture. Remove any stained paint around all nail heads by sanding the area or using a wire brush. Sand clear down to the nail head, then sand the nail itself to remove the built-up rust. Use a nail punch to countersink all nail heads approximately 1/8" below the wood surface. Apply one even layer of undercoat over the countersunk nail and the area around it. After the area is primed, fill the countersunk hole with a good grade of caulking compound. Allowing the compound to dry, then apply one coat of a good grade of outside house paint. After adequate drying time, apply a second coat. Use the steps to correct the problem. PEELING PAINT UNDER THE OVERHANG OF A ROOF Paint sometimes peels under the overhang of a roof or in other areas of your home that are protected from weather. Such peeling is usually caused by a build-up of "salt" deposits, which are normally washed away aby rain in exposed areas. Your first step is to remove the peeling paint by sanding the surface thoroughly. After sanding, prepare a solution using a cleaner that leaves no film such as trisodium phosphate and water. Wash the sanded surface with this solution. RInse the area with clear water and allow it to dry. After the surface has dried completely, apply two coats of a good grade of undercoating paint. When the undercoat has thoroughly dried, apply a coat of a top-quality house paint. Under some conditions, two finish coats may be required. THis treatment should correct the peeling problem. FLAKING PAINT Paint flaking is caused by moisture that collects behind the painted surface. Moisture enters the wood siding from the unpainted side. The absorbing and drying of the moisture causes repeated swelling and shrinking, thus breaking the paint film and causing it to pull away from the wood surface. The first step is locating the source of the moisture. Check the area for leakage from the gutters or eaves of the house. If the flaking paint is near a bathroom or kitchen, the pipes may be sweating or leaking, or excess heat may be causing condensation. You may need to install attic louvers, moisture vents or exhaust fans to correct the build-up of moisture. Scrape and sand away all flaking paint. Remove the paint as far as 12" in all directions beyond the flaking area. Sand the surface down to the unpainted woood, and spot prime the area with a good grade of undercoat. Protect the area against moisture by caulking all seams, holes and cracks that appear in the freshly sanded area. After the caulking compound has thoroughly dried, apply at least one coat of a top-quality house paint according to the manufacturer's directions. You may need to apply two coats. These steps should completely resolve the problem. SPOT PEELING Spot peeling sometimes occurs on the siding of a house in areas exposed to the sun's heat. Peeling is usually caused by moisture trapped in the siding that is drawn to the surface by the sun's rays. The moisture lifts the paint away from the surface. The first step is locating the source of the trapped moisture. Check carefully for leaks in the gutters or eaves of the house. If the peeling area is near a kitchen or bathroom, you may need to install an exhaust fan to remove the moisture and sweat build-up. Louvers placed in the overhang of the roof - or wedges and vents placed in the siding - sometimes allow the trapped moisture to escape. Remove all the old paint in the peeling area. Scrape off the paint approximately 12" beyond the peeling area. Sand the surface down to the original wood undercoat. Caulk all holes, cracks and seams with a good grade of caulking compound to avoid a repeat of the problem. After the caulking compound has had time to dry thoroughly, apply at least one coat of a good grade of house paint. This should completely correct the problem. PEELING DOWNSPOUTS AND GUTTERS Gutters and downspouts normally peeel because they were not properly treated and primed when originally painted. Galvanized metal usually has a thin, invisible film that causes many paint problems. Remove the loose paint from the downspouts and gutters with a wire brush, scraper or some other stiff tool. Use a power brush or power sander fro big projects. Be sure that all loose paint is removed. Otherwise, the problem will occur again after another painting. Don't take shortcuts - correct the problem now by doing the job right. If you are using latex-based paint, clean the sanded area with a good grade of solvent. Apply a heavy coat of the solvent and allow it to evaporate. Special solvents are available for treating galvanized metal. After the solvent has evaporated, apply the latex paint directly to the bare galvanized area. For large areas, finish the job with two top coats. If you are using an oil-based paint, prime the sanded areas with a good grade of metal primer. After the primer has dried, apply one coat of a good grade of metal paint. Finish the job with at least one coat of a good-quality house paint. Use two coats in extreme cases. CRACKING OR ALLIGATORING Extreme cracking, sometimes known as alligatoring, is caused when a second or third coat of paint is applied befire the previous coat dried completely. In some cases, cracking or alligatoring is caused when the undercoat is incompatible with the type of finish coat applied to the surface. The only solution is to completely sand away the cracked or alligatored surface. Use power sanding or brushing equipment for large areas. After the cracked or alligatored paint is completely removed from the surface, brush the area thoroughly to remove dust and loose paint particles. Apply one coat of a good quality undercoat paint. Allow the undercoat paint to dry thoroughly, then apply a second coat of a top-quality house paint of the desired color. This completely corrects the problem. CHECKING OF A PAINTED SURFACE Checking usually occurs on a painted plywood surface. As the plywood veneer ages, it cracks from repeated expansion and contraction. This weathering and aging causes the painted surface to check. When checking occurs, the entire checked area must be sanded smooth. The job will be easier with a power sander. After the sanding is comlete, prime the bare wood with one coat of good grade undercoat. Fill all holes, cracks and seams with a good grade of caulking compound. After the caulking compound and undercoat paint have dried thoroughly, apply one layer of a good grade of outside house paint. In cases where the plywood is extremely aged, you may need to replace the wood completely. If new plywood is mounted, you can prevent it from checking by sanding the surface of the new plywood smooth. After sanding, apply one coat of a good grade of latex wood primer. After the primer has thoroughly dried, apply one or two coats of a top-quality outside house paint. MILDEW ON PAINT Mildew is caused by a combination of high humidity and high temperature that creates a growth of fungus on the paint film. Completely remove mildew from the surface. If you simply paint over it, the mildew will grow right through the new coat of paint. Make a solution of 1/3 cup of powdered detergent and 1/2 cup of household bleach mixed in one gallon of warm water. Scrub the entire mildewed surface thoroughly using this solution. Scrub the area vigorously, then rinse lightly with clean water. Apply one coat of a good grade of undercoat paint and allow it to dry. After the undercoat layer has thoroughly dried, apply a finish coat of mildew-resistant outside paint or a top-grade of latex outside house paint. This procedure will remove the mildew problem. BLISTERING Blistering is caused by moisture trapped in the wood that is drawn to the surface by the sun's rays. As the moisture rises, it pulls the paint away from the surface and causes blistering. Locate the source of the excess moisture and eliminate it. Check first for leakage from the gutters or eaves of the house. If the area is near a bathroom or kitchen, you may need to install an exhaust fan to remove the excess heat, steam and moisture. You can also install moisture vents or wedges in the siding to permit the moisture to escape. Scrape or sand away all the old paint in the blistered area down to the wood. Scrape the unblistered paint out about 12" beyond the blistered area. Next, sand this area thoroughly, right down to the fresh wood. Then prime it with a good grade of undercoat paint. Block future moisture problems by sealing all cracks, holes and seams with a good grade of caulking compound. After the caulking compound and undercoat have dried thoroughly, apply a second coat of a good grade of outside house paint. THis eliminates the problem. CHALKING AND FLAKING ON MASONRY SURFACES Chalking and flaking on masonry surfaces are usually caused by inadequate preparation of the surface prior to painting. This causes the paint to flake off or powder. First, remove the chalking or flaking with a wire brush or by sandblasting. If the job is big, use power sanders or wire brushes. Next, seal all cracks with a good grade of masonry conditioner following the manufacturer's instructions. After the masonry conditioner has thoroughly dried, apply one or two coats of a good grade of latex house paint or an exterior masonry paint. Your flaking problem is corrected! LEAD WARNING Lead is a highly toxic metal. Lead can harm virtually every system in the human body. Lead is particularly harmful to the developing brain and nervous system of fetuses and young children. Children who are lead poisoned can suffer from damage to the brain and nervous system, slowed growth, hearing problems, and kidney damage. The effects of lead on children can be permanent. High levels can also cause health problems in adults, such as high blood pressure, nerve disorders, reproductive system disorders, digestive problems, and kidney damage. Very severe exposure to lead can cause coma, convulsions, and even death. The most common sources of lead exposure in and around the house are lead-based paint, household dust (for example, dust from deteriorating lead paint), soil, and drinking water. Any house or apartment built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint. Most homes built before 1960 contain lead-based paint. Any painted surface, interior or exterior, may contain lead-based paint. Paint in poor condition-chipping or peeling- poses the greatest health hazard. Any surfaces covered with lead-based paint that are subjec to friction (floors, windows, cabinets) are likely to generate lead dust. Lead-based paint on interior and exterior windows of particular concern because the repeated opening and closing of the windows creates lead dust. Before you repair or renovate your home, you should call your local health department and ask if they can test your home for lead-based paint. If the health department cannot test, ask them who can. If lead-based paint is found in your home, have the repair or renovation done by a worker who has been trained to protect your family and home from exposure to lead dust and chips. In areas of your home where you know or suspect there is lead-base paint, avoid activities such as scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun on a painted surface. It is important to know that imporper removal of lead-based paint can create hazardowus levels of lead dust and fumes. Contact the National Lead Information Center Hotline at 1-800-LEAD-FYI for more information about lead poisoning prevention. * 1991 Home Center Institute/National Retail Hardware Association. Booklet #17 for The Home Depot. Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this brochure has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither the NRHA nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this booklet.

EXTERIOR PAINT* EXTERIOR PAINTING* As a general rule, the exterior or body of your house should be painted every 6 - 8 years--or even before this if you note deterioration of the paint film such as cracking, peeling, flaking, fading, and just plain paint failure, although paint failure can usually be traced to surface failure (the substratum) rather than the paint. Paint seldom, if ever, "fails." As with any paint job, more than 90% of the work involved should be with preparation of the surface. For paint to adhere properly, it must be applied to a clean and dry surface--free of dirt, dust, grease, and flaking paint or other types of paint trouble. The time that you invest in cleaning, scraping, and patching will make it all worthwhile. Applying the paint is the easiest part of the painting project. Exterior Paint Finishes There are two types: body paint or the finish that you apply to the siding of the house, and trim paint or the finish that you apply to doors, windows, gutters, etc. Trim paint is different in that it is formulated with special resins that dry to a semi-gloss finish which is easier to keep clean than body paint which is more "elastic" so it can expand and contract with outside temperature changes. Body paint (sometimes called "structure" paint) also looks better on rough surfaces often found on siding: wood, concrete, brick. What type paint should you buy? --Latex Finish Paint can be used on most surfaces. Some surfaces will require a primer for masonry and aluminum siding. Contrary to popular belief latex may be applied over exterior oil paint IF the oil paint is tightly bonded to the surface and deglossed. Latex paint may be applied in temperatures between 50 degrees and 80 degrees , and even when the furface to be painted is slightly damp. The material won't lap. It is almost odorless, thinned with water, and fade-, fume-, and mildew- resistant. Since it's water-based, tool clean-up can be under the kitchen sink faucet. You can buy latex in a wide range of pre-mixed colors; prices are comparable with other types of paint--sometimes even a tad less expensive. --Acrylic Finish Paint.This finish has all the features of latex finish paint, but it dries faster. It is a type of latex paint in formulation. Its cost is usually slightly higher than latex finish paint. Like latex, it may be applied with a brush, roller, pad painter, and spray gun. --Alkyd Finish Paint may be applied to any surface but unprimed masonry and metals. It is thinned with turpentine or mineral spirits; the finish dries more slowly than latex or acrylic. Alkyd finish is recommended for chalking surfaces. It may be applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. --Oil Finish Paint is formulated for most surfaces. It is slow-drying, however, if this is a consideration and it is solvent-thinned. It may be brushed, rolled, or sprayed on the surface. --Trim Paint is available in the Big 4: latex, acrylic, alkyd, and oil finishes. It is made for windows, doors, shutters, fascia and other "trim" parts of a house. In latex, you can buy it color-matched to body paint. This is called a "latex system." --Masonry Finish Paint. Latex is excellent. So is Portland cement mixtures and alkyd and epoxy. --For Porches/Decks/Steps, use a finish called "porch & deck" enamel. It can be latex, acrylic, alkyd, oil, rubber, polyurethane. It can be applied with a brush, roller, floor brush, or a squeegee. Check the label on the container for specific, special data. --Exterior Stain is available for wood shakes and shingles, plywood siding, panel siding, decks, and outdoor furniture pieces. There are two types: semi-transparent if you want to see the wood under the stain, and pigmented if you don't want to see much of the wood under the stain. Buy pigmented stain for plywood siding. The "plugs" in plywood siding are synthetic and will not take semi-transparent stain without showing the plug. --Primers are especially formulated for both old and new wood and metal. Use a primer instead of thinning finish paint. You will be dollars ahead if you do, since thinning finish paint dilutes it so it doesn't furnish the best bonding surface as a primer does. --Screen Paint. Thin trim paint 25%. Or buy screen paint, which is a form of trim paint --Plastic Finishes. Use marine formulated paints on fiberglass. Do not paint other types of plastic. The results could be very disapointing. --Wood Roofs. The finish should be a water-repellent preservative. Never paint a wood roof with standard paint. Wood roofs hold moisture; the paint will pop off the surface and cause a mess. If you want to change the color of a wood roof, use a semi-transparent stain. Brush it on. --Asphalt Roofs. Use an asphalt bituminous roof coating only. A solvent-thinned paint will dissolve the shingles. You will need at least two coats of finish to cover the roof surface. Sometimes three coats are necessary. Brush, roll, spray. --Metal Roofs can be painted with most any metal paint. The roof must be cleaned and primed, however, for best results. Do not use standard paint; it will pop off the metal due to moisture. If the metal is terne, a tin-steel alloy, use an iron-oxide primer. The finish paint can be latex or alkyd. --Mildew. The surface must be cleaned before painting it with a finish formulated with mildewcide. To clean away mildew, use one quart of household bleach, one-third cup of standard laundry detergent (powder), and two-thirds cup of any cleaner containing trisodium phosphate all mixed in three quarts of warm water. Plan to use lots of elbow grease and have lots of patience. If you have mildew removed professionally, steam will be used. --Soot. Give your house a bath, using a cup of trisodium phosphate and powdered laundry detergent mixed in 4 quarts of water. Rinse after washing with a stiff brush or auto washing brush on a handle. Paint Brushes Paint brushes are made with natural or synthetic bristles. Natural bristles should never be used with a latex or water-based paint, because the bristles absorb water and become mop-like. Handles of brushes should be comfortable in your hand and easy to clean. Grip the bristles. The brush should feel "full." The bristles also should fan out slightly and not clump when pressed against the palm of your hand and they should spring back into their original position afterward. The tips of natural bristles should be flagged. The flags (like several little bristles jutting off the end of a main bristle) offer more brushing bristles. Most exterior paint jobs can be handles with three size brushes--or types: a 4-in. brush for siding and big surfaces; a 1 to 1-1/2-in. trim brush; a 2-to 2-1/2-in sash brush. It is recommended that you do not buy larger brushes to make the job go faster. You will find brushes over 4-ins. wide unwieldy and too heavy to swing. Use a roller if you want "width." Roller Applicators A roller has two parts: a frame and a cover. Roller frames and covers are a standard size, but the covers vary as to thickness and composition of the nap. The nap will be specified on the roller cover package as short, medium, or long. Short nap, about 1/4-in. thick, is used to apply paint to smooth surfacessuch as aluminum and wood lap siding. Medium nap covers are used for semi-rough surfaces, while long nap covers are used for rough surfaces such as concrete block and brick. Most roller frames are threaded inside the end of the handle to accept an extension handle for working higher than an easy reach. You can buy an extension or use a standard-size screw-on mop handle. An extension is recommended. The best buy in roller pans are the ones that have ribbed bottoms. The roller cover rolls scross the ribs and picks up paint more evenly. Also, you can fit the bottom of the pan with metal hardware cloth which lets the cover pick up more paint evenly. A Plan For Painting Organization makes any job go faster and exterior painting is no exception. By following this checklist your project should move right along with speed: 1. Give your house a bath. Use trisodium phosphate mixed with water and apply this solution with a long-handled car wash brush. Start washing the house from the top and work your way down. When you're finished, rinse the house with a garden hose and let the job set a week or so until the surfaces are dry. 2. Estimate your paint needs and buy the paint and equipment. A gallon of body paint on a "mormal" surface will cover approximately 300sq. ft. Double this for dry masonry surfaces. YOu will need one gallon of trim paint for every 4 gallons of body paint. 3. Repair any building componenet that is damaged, i.e., roofing, gutters and downspouts, cracked and split siding, crumbling mortar joints, loose boards and casings. 4.Remove window and door screens and all exterior hardware such as house numbers, mailboxes and so forth. 5. If you polan to paint the foundation of your home or siding that extends almost to ground level, trim away any vegetation touching the house and pull grass and weeds next to the foundation. 6. Remove damaged and peeling paint. 7. Caulk all open cracks around window and door frames, casing, fascia, soffits, columns, railings. It is estimated that 7 tubes of caulking are needed for an average 3 bedroom house-painting project. 8. Spot-prime bare wood with a primer compatible with the finish coat of paint that you will apply to the house. 9. Cover plants, shrubs, walks, railings, and other items you do not want damaged by paint. 10. Paint only one side of the house at a time. Complete it before you move to another section. Selected Painting Tips Applying paint, as mentioned earlier, is the easiest part of the paint job. You're ready to spread it when all surfaces have been properly cleaned. Dip the brush just about 1/3 its bristle length into the paint. This will load the brush, but not enough so the paint will run down the handle.Slap the flat of the bristles on the bucket side. Paint corners and under the courses of lap siding and shingles first. Do a couple of rows, working from top to bottom. Tip the brush up so the edges of siding/shingles are properly covered. Distribute the paint on the surface so the surface is thoroughly covered. Work from a dry surface into a wet surface with the brush tip. Smooth the paint, working out any sags, surtains, hallidays with the very tip of the brush. Siding edges, ends, and face should be covered. At the foundation, point the tip of the brush downward. This keeps the brisltes off the foundation as flat surface is painted. OR at the foundation, use a short length of scrap board (plywood or hardboard) as a paint "shield" to keep the finish off the foundation. Paint casings and trim form the top to the bottom and from dry to wet. This way, the brush catches any runs and sags in the finish. 1. If a ladder is in your painting picture, be careful setting and climbing it. An extension ladder must be overlapped by three rungs--NEVER less. IF you climb onto a roof, make sure there are at least three rungs of the ladder exteded over the eaves of the roof. 2. Work on a ladder with your hips between the side rails of the ladder. Do not overreach with your arms; instead, get down and reset the ladder. Ladders must be set with the bottom of the bottom rails level. Also, the slope of the ladder should be about 1/4th its length. Example: the ladder is a 20-footer. Slope it away from the vertical furface by 5-ft. 3. "Box-mix: body paint. "Boxing" is pouring the contents of one paint can into a large bucket and then pouring the contents of another paint can into the same bucket. This way, the paint is blended even though you may buy different "batches" at the store. Boxing is especially recommended for mixed colors. 4. To paint fascia, gutters, and soffits, work from left to right (if you're right-handed). Go from top to bottom. Coat the fascia first, then the gutter, and then the soffit. 5. To paint lapped siding, also work from left to right and from top to bottom. This way you will be reaching and working above the top of the ladder, if a ladder is used. Go completely across the house section as one unit. Then go back to the start, lower the ladder, and go completely across the section again. 6. If you're painting grooved siding, use a short-bristled brush and work up and down the grooves in the shingles--not across. Paint the underside of the shingles--where they overlap-- first and then move onto the flat surfaces--up-and -down. 8. If you're painting concrete block or brick, expect to use about 50%--maybe even more--paint on the surface than on a mormal wood surface. A whitewash abrush (7-8-ins. wide) is ideal for applying the paint since the surface is rough and will quickly wear out regular--pure or nylon. When the job is finished--but the paint is not yet thoroughly dry--the surface may appear blothchy and uneven. If so, let the paint dry completely before you draw any conclusions. If the job is indeed blotchy, another coat of paint is needed. THis coat will not require as much paint to cover the same surface--about 50%less in fact. 9. If you're painting stucco, the techniques are the same as for painting brick and lbock with one exception: double-coat the surface as you paint it. Although double-coating takes about 10% more paint, the additional paint usually assures you of a smooth, blotch-free job when the paint is dry. Never use a Portland cement paint over a stucco surface that has been painted with another type of paint. 10. When painting metal, prime it with a metal primer if the metal is new-never painted. If the metal has been painted and the paint film is solidly bonded to the metal, paint over the metal with regular house paint. When painting metal watch carefully for runs and sags in the fresh paint. Use a fairly dry brush or roller when you paint metal surfaces. 11. Peeling paint almost always is caused by moisture. Before repainting a peeled, but now clean surface, find out where the moisture is coming from and correct it. Suspect poor ventilation if the peeling is around a bathroom, kitchen or laundry room window. Also look for damaged gutters and downspouts if paint is peeling along fascias and down along the siding of a house. *How-To-Booklet #28 from Fred Meyer. Creative Homeowner Press. 24 Park Way, P.O. Box 38, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458.