Day Eight
The original itinerary for our trek said we'd go from Namche to Tengboche and stay two nights there. Nima, though, wanted to try some variations and we all happily agreed. So today we part company with the other group as they go on to Tengboche and we go to Khumjung. First though, we get up at 6am to go to Saturday Market (reminded me of a miniature Victoria Market in Melbourne) before setting off up that hill again - for the third time! - towards Kunde and Khumjung. A few false starts by Mandal before we finally find the right track up towards Syanboche airstrip, complete with windsock and yaks, and on over the ridge to Kunde. A beautiful walk with superb scenic shots.Toni told us all that a memorial to Sir Edmund Hilary's wife and daughter can be found up on the ridge above Kunde, but we don't have time to go visit it. They both died in a plane crash when on their way to join Sir Edmund here in the Khumbu. Once at Kunde we went to the Hospital, hoping for a tour. Sadly, it was closed because a young woman had just given birth and the baby had died. So, on again across the intermontane valley (thankyou for that little gem, Toni) to Khumjung. We stopped at the Gompa first and had a look at the yeti scalp. I lit a lamp in front of the statue of Padmasambhava - otherwise known as Guru Rinpoche. Revered almost more than Buddha himself as he was responsible for bringing Buddhism to Tibet and Nepal - and gave the massive prayerwheel a few revolutions. Then we tramped through the village up to our lodge for yet another delicious lunch.
After sorting out our rooms, we all went for a walk down to the Khumjung School and posed for a group photo in front of the kata-clad statue of Sir Edmund Hilary. The only person not in the photo was Colin. He was too busy off somewhere else getting stoned by a farmer who did not want his photo taken! Served him right! There have been a few times when I wouldn't have minded throwing a few stones at Colin myself. Every time you turn around, he's got a camera pointed at you!
Anyway, once Colin had rejoined us, we trooped off to the famous Mt Everest Bakery for hot apple pie and coffee. Mmmmmmmmm! Absolutely lipsmackingly delicious! On sale were some excellent T-shirts that had a map on the back of the entire route of our trek! A "must buy" if ever I saw one and a bargain at 350rs. The only detail missing from the map was the Kongma La, but what the hey! So, with full stomachs we lurch back to the lodge to be just in time for tea and bikkies! God this trekking business is hard! The cloud has really descended now. We're at 3790m and the clouds are almost to the ground!
This is the first day that we've been without the other group - they've gone to Tengboche. We'll pass them tomorrow as we go up and they come back down. So, from now on, it's just the ten of us and the team of Sherpas. Spent the evening watching the DVD of 'Himalaya'. Us ten, our Sherpas and half the porters, two independent trekkers, the lodge owner and his family all crowded into the diningroom. A room that is fully equipped with a TV, stereo, video and DVD player (bought for $30 from a Chinese trader)in the Khumjung Hill Top View Lodge at 3790m in a village that boasts no more than 10 streetlights, in the middle of nowhere, halfway to Everest! Life doesn't get much better!
Day Nine
Had my best night's sleep so far! Slept right through to 3.30am then again to 6am. Today we were treated to a sleep in - tea and washy water not until 7.30! After breakfast we had a demonstration of the Pressure Altitude Chamber bag, with Colin as our 'volunteer'. Then it was time to set off - downhill. And down and down and down and down we went all the way to Phunkitenga deside the Dudh Khosi. We had joined the main trail by this stage and there was a lot of traffic going both ways. We passed the other group on the way down and we all shook hands as we passed.
Lunch was in a clearing beside the water-turned prayerwheels. Then it was up and up and up for two hours to Tengboche Monastery. It was a hard slog and I was very glad to finally arrive...and excited to be at the fabled Tengboche. I had to keep pinching myself. Could hardly believe I was actually here! We had a quick lemon tea, then it was over to the monastery for prayers. It got too cold to stay there for very long (now I know why the monks have such heavy cloaks!) When we got back to the lodge, our bags had arrived, so it was off to our room to 'make' our beds and change into warm clothes. We're staying at the Tashi Delek Lodge and from our room window we'll have fabulous views of Everest once the cloud cover clears. Tomorrow there will be another change to the itinerary and instead of two nights in Dingboche, we'll camp at Ama Dablam Base Camp, then move onto Dingboche the following night.
Today's walk was lovely - forested with firs and flowers. Lots of Spanish moss hanging from trees. Nima told us yesterday that the musk deer live on those lichens and will actually climb the trees to get to the lichen! We saw two female tahr today and I managed to get a photo of one - I hope it turns out.
Sounds of Nepal
Clink clink of hammers on stone as builders shape blocks to build new lodges
Whistles and calls of yak herders
Clanging and tinkling of yak bells. Very melodious
Scuff, tramp, rattle of trekking boots on the trail
Toot toot of Kathmandu traffic
Mournful bellow of a yak. Described by Carmel as if it's complaining of bellyache
Rush and roar of Dudh Khosi tumbling over rock. Natural white noise
Dissonant crash of cymbals and dirgelike tones of horns and trumpets in the monasteries
Click click of trekking poles on rock
Day Ten
Up nice and early for phototaking session after breakfast. About 9am we set off downhill towards Deboche. Stopped for a quick visit to the Deboche nunnery, which is apparently the oldest in the Khumbu region. Then it was onwards to the Imje Khola. Walked through beautiful rhododendron and fir forest. Passed one spot that was simply magical. Pools of water under moss draped trees. Someone had tied katas to the trees, so I wasn't the only one who felt the magic in the place!
Once we reached Pangboche, we had a short stop outside a little shop, which gave Passang a chance to chat up a local girl! Then it was down to the river and across a wooden bridge to our lunch stop. Earlier in the day, we crossed a big metal bridge that had been built above the original suspension bridge. Festooned with prayerflags, the bridge offered a superb view up the valley of Ama Dablam and the river. During lunch, a yak train came down the hill and past our picnic spot. I jumped up and grabbed my camera to photograph them crossing the wooden bride, Indian file. Lunch was pizza - yum yum!
After lunch, the hard work started as we slogged our way uphill for what seemed like an eternity. The landscape was very reminiscent of English moors with beautiful russet-coloured grasses and stunning red plants and flowers. The clouds began to close in, creating a truly magical atmosphere. The weather turned rather chilly and everyone rugged up, but I stayed in shirtsleeves with just my '100' polar vest zipped up and my sunhat on. Plenty warm enough - in fact I was sweating! Over one hill, then it was up another one. I began to run out of fuel and had to have a bit of a snack, which I shared with Jack. My legs were really feeling the strain today and it was a relief to finally stop at Ama Dablam Base Cmp. It is situated in a rather sheltered bowl and it was very pleasant in the sun when we arrived. Now the cloud has set in and blanked everything out. There are at least two climbing expeditions here as well, but I don't know where they are from.
I have a really bad case of wind at the moment and farted my way uphill after lunch. Poor Carmel will bear the brunt of it in the tent tonight! She's already climbed into thermals and down jacket and I am about to do the same. It's going to be rather chilly tonight!
It was hard work today, but I loved the countryside. It was SO quiet. Just the sound of the wind rustling through the bushes and my breathing. Every now and again, you'd hear the 'chew chew' of a chough. Once the wind dropped, the only sound was of the stream babbling and burbling its way downhill.
Passed through the 4000m mark on the way into Ama Dablam Base Camp.
