Brief
(inofficial)
History of Mountaineering and Climbing
Sport in Estonia,
History of "Firn" Included
On 27 September 1829, the founder of scientific mountaineering
Johann Jacob Friedrich Wilhelm Parrot, being at that time a
professor of physics of the
University of Tartu, climbed to the top of
Mt. Ararat (5165m) together with H.Abovjan
(the future famous Armenian poet) and 3 other students.
Due to this event, and also to the first ascent to the Eastern Summit
of
Mt. Elbrus (5621m) by Killar Hasirov in 1829, this year is
deemed to mark the birth of Russian Alpinism.
An organized alpinism emerged in Estonia many years later.
There is no high mountains in Estonia, and during half a century
before the last great political changes the travelling
possibilities were to the large extent restricted to the
borders of former SU, so...
That's how it all began:
1956
for the first time seven Estonians attend the SU
high-mountain training camps for climbers
1957
eighteen Estonian climbers led by Peeter Varep ascend
Kazbek (5047m) in
Central Caucasus (July 29-30)
founded is the Mountaineering Section of Tallinn
(later known as a Club - "Tallinna Alpinismi Klubi")
1958
Jaanus Orgulas is the first Estonian to reach (with a group of German climbers) the Eastern Summit of
Mt. Elbrus (5624m) in
Central Caucasus on August 4; a day later he is followed by
another 31 Estonian climbers also ascending the summit
Jüri Martin performs a climb rated 4 by the
Russian Federation Difficulty Rating System
(RUS) - compare to the
Alpine Grading System used in Western Europe
1959
Mountaineering Club "Firn" is founded in Tartu
by Mati Klein, Rein Küttim, J. Martin, Vello Park,
Erik Reino, Tõnu Tennisson, Priit Vürst and
Kuldev Ääremaa, all students of the
University of Tartu
(at that time known as 'Tartu State University')
Since 1960 several official commemorative dates were
used as pleas for organizing expeditions with a goal of
ascending one of the peaks over 7000m high in
the Pamirs
or ascending virgin peaks never climbed before and giving
them corresponding names.
1960
on July 30, in course of Estonian expedition led by P. Varep, fifteen climbers led by Hillar Kaal ascend a 6211m
high virgin peak in the Zaalayskiy mountain range
(
the Pamirs) and name the peak "Estonia"
in course of expedition led by P. Varep 14 Estonian climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m) on 11 August: Heino Paltser (leader) + P. Varep, A. Sulg, F. Jürna; and another group (from the south) - Ragnar Palmre +
E. Agasild, Kaljo Palmiste, Ilmar Palo, V. Park, Ilmar Priimets, S. Rehtsalu, Jüri Tohver, Ain Uusna, T. Salo
three more Estonians on the top of
Pik Lenin (7134m): Vello Vets, Peet Väinastu, Ilmar Sööt
1968
V. Park is the first Estonian to climb a route rated 6
(RUS) by
ascending
Ailama (4547m) with a group of Georgian climbers, thus becoming a Champion of Georgia
1970
the 3rd Estonian Pamirs-expedition: 12 climbers led by I. Priimets ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7106m); 8 climbers ascend
Pik Kommunizma (7495m, now known as Pik Samani; the first ascent by
climbers from Balticum) - H. Paltser + I. Priimets, Jaak Sumeri, T. Tennison,
J. Tohver, A. Uusna, P. Vürst, K. Ääremaa
4 climbers (P. Varep, V. Park, K. Palmiste, I. Palo) ascend
Pik Kommunizma (7495m), Peeter Varep
(Tallinn, 1914-1984) being in 1972 the world's eldest
man to climb over 7000m
Heino Paltser is killed by a casual stone while performing
a rock climb on a route rated 5B(RUS) in
Tien Shan
1973
in course of an Estonian expedition to the South-Western Pamirs led by
P. Vürst, a high-altitude traverse (rated 5B/RUS) between the peaks of
Nikoladze and
Pik Karl Marx (6723m) is performed by a group led by T. Tennisson
1974
in course of an Estonian expedition (led by I. Priimets) to
Pik Lenin (7134m,
the Pamirs) from the south, 7 peaks are ascended (incl. 2 virgin peaks + 1 new route; Pik Lenin - Juhan Ahlberg, Hindrek Kriis, Enn Branno, M. Klein, V. Park, K. Palmiste, R. Tanner, L. Hiiesalu, I. Palo);
the expedition ends most tragically in the history of Estonian mountaineering - three of the most experienced Estonian climbers are killed by an unexpected
snow avalanche (triggered by an earthquake) just below the top of Pik Lenin on the most difficult route from the south.
They were motors of "Firn" - Erik Reino, Tõnu Tennisson, Priit Vürst (acting president)... ; the survivals E. Saar and J. Sumeri had a very narrow escape
the first visit of climbers from Estonia to the Alps
the silver mark designed in 1959 by J. Martin is established as a mark of the "Firn's" membership; all the marks assigned to the new members carry their individual serial numbers, the mark No.1 is assigned to E. Saar
Olaf Sööt and Jüri Tint (residing abroad) are the first
Estonians to ascend
Mt. McKinley (6194m, the highest peak of the continent of North America,
Alaska)
1977
the 175th anniversary of the
reopening of the
University of Tartu
is commemorated by "Firn" in the form of expedition to
Kazbek (5047m,
Central Caucasus),
in course of which some young members of "Firn" (Kalle Hansen, H. Kriis,
Karl Ottas, Jaan Paaver, Ivo Parmas, Immar Puun, Aivar Pärgmäe,
Veiko Tamm, Toomas Täht) symbolically finish the historical unfinished
climb (in 1811) to this peak by J.F. Parrot (who later became the rector of the University of Tartu
1831-1833)
joint expedition with Latvian climbers to the Alai mountain
range in
the Pamirs
1978
first 4 Estonian climbers are invited to join the
International Mountaineering Camp ("MAL") in the Pamirs
as guides for climbers from outside the SU; during the following 15 years many climbers from Estonia will have opportunities to combine their work for MAL with high-altitude or technical climbs
the 150th anniversary of J.F. Parrot's ascent to
Mt. Ararat is commemorated by an ascent to
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7106m,
the Pamirs): J. Ahlberg, I. Priimets, E. Saar, J. Sumeri
1979
Helme Suuk is the first Estonin woman to ascend over 7000m high peak
(
Pik Lenin (7134m,
the Pamirs) in course of an expedition led by I. Priimets)
1982
Urmas Grauen climbs through a 1200m long route "Kamin Kagor"
(Central Asia),
rated 6 (RUS)
the 350th anniversary of the initial establishment of the
University of Tartu by the Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus II
is commemorated by "Firn" with an expedition to the Tanimas
mountain range in Central
Pamirs led by Kalev Muru; two virgin peaks are ascended and named respectively as "Tartu Ülikool 350" (6350m) -
K. Muru + Anu Kallavus, K. Hansen, Andres Paris, Kalle Aedviir, Jaan Künnap, and
"J.F.Parrot" (6277m) - Alfred Lõhmus + H. Suuk, I. Parmas, Ivo Goldi,
Ants Salk, Ants Stern
before the expedition Estonian climbers participate
vigorously in several SU high-mountain training camps - there is a record
number of 148 participants from Estonia during the summer months
1983
I. Priimets is the first Estonian climber to ascend (with a group from MAL)
Pik Pobeda
(7439m,
Tien Shan), thus becoming the first Estonian
with the title of 'Snow Leopard'
six Estonian climbers get their
Mountain Guide papers (Russian "Instruktor Alpinizma")
from the special Guide School located in the Bezengi
region of
Central Caucasus
Rein Grauberg ("Firn") dies in result of an illness strike happened while he approached Pik Lenin
(the Pamirs)
with a group of hikers
Jaak Sumeri (Viljandi) dies in result of a strike while working as a
Mountain Guide in a Russian alpine camp in Central Asia
1984
in course of Estonian Pamirs expedition led by I. Priimets a 6047m high
virgin peak is ascended and called "Tallinn" (in honour of the Estonian capital)
by three separate groups using different routes: (17 august) I. Priimets +
U. Grauen, E. Branno, R. Loik; (18 aug.) J. Künnap + A. Kallavus, K. Muru,
A. Paris, A. Stern, T. Lepik; (19 aug.) I. Goldi + H. Suuk, E. Haavik, A. Salk,
Ü. Treijar, R. Tanner, V. Park, L. Hiiesalu, P. Väinastu;
on 18 and 20 august, A. Lõhmus and K. Hansen ascend two virgin peaks
(5750m and 5700m), one of which is named "Kalev"
another five Estonians attend the Guide School in Caucasus and get their
Mountain Guide papers
1985
Tiina Tamm ("Firn") perishes in a crevasse region while descending
Pik Lenin
(the Pamirs)
after a nonofficial attempt to climb the mountain with V. Tamm
1986
A. Kallavus is the first Estonian woman to perform a technical ascent rated 5B (RUS): she performs two such ascents in the Fan Mountains region of Pamiro-Alai in a pair with Vladimir Vladimirov
Balticum'86, an annual meeting of climbers from Estonia,
Latvia and Lithuania combined with the competition of
reports on the summer ascents, is organized by Firn and held
at Sangaste Castle in South Estonia
1987
on 8 august, the first Estonians (A. Lõhmus, K. Muru, J. Künnap) ascend Khan Tengri (7010m, Tien Shan) with a Russian group, all acquiring the title of 'Snow Leopard'
climbing activities based on the Alpine Camp "Artuch" (Pamiro-Alai)
1989
two Estonians of a group led by Tõivo Sarmet ascend
Khan Tengri (7010m,
Tien Shan)
eleven climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m) in
the Pamirs in course of an expedition led by Mihhail Sobelman
in course of an Estonian expedition to Pamiro-Alai a
group of climbers led by K. Muru ascend an over 5000m high
virgin peak, naming it after the University of Tartu;
climbing activities in the Ark valley region
1990
in course of expedition to
the Pamirs and
Tien Shan led by
V. Vladimirov,
Pik Lenin (7134m) is ascended by 15 and
Khan Tengri (7010m)
by 7 climbers (both groups guided by J. Künnap);
H. Suuk is the first Estonian woman to ascend
Khan Tengri
a group of 5 climbers led by T. Sarmet ascends peak Estonia (6211m) and
Pik Lenin (7134m) in
the Pamirs
multiple ascents to
Mt. Elbrus (5642m, the highest peak of Europe,
Central Caucasus)
in course of an expedition led by Urmas Grauen
1991
an expedition to Central
Pamirs led by
U. Grauen is held in course of preparation to the
planned Annapurna expedition; two virgin peaks over 5000m
are ascended and named correspondingly "Norma" (5467m) and "Paide";
11 climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m) via the normal route
in course of expedition to
the Pamirs led by
V. Vladimirov, Pik Korzhenevskaya (7106m) is ascended by 5 and
Pik Kommunizma (7495m)
by 7 climbers (both groups guided by J. Künnap);
H. Suuk is the first Estonian woman to acquire the title of
'Snow Leopard'
organization of the Annapurna expedition fails due to
financial problems...
Estonia (being represented by "Firn") becomes a member of
UIAA
1992
three Estonian groups (led by V. Vladimirov, U. Grauen, and T. Sarmet)
climb in the Pamirs;
8 climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
1993
two climbers of two groups (led by T. Sarmet and Peedo Nelke) ascend
Khan Tengri (7010m,
Tien Shan)
the first Estonian group of 11 climbers (led by V. Vladimirov and
J. Künnap; incl. the first woman H. Suuk) ascends
Mont Blanc (4807m,
from the French side)
"Alpikirka" ("Ice Axe", in Estonian), a book by
Peeter Varep (1914-1984) containing his memoirs on the history
of mountaineering in Estonia, is printed in Tallinn
1994
Matterhorn
(4478m) is ascended via the classical Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat)
route by the first seven Estonian climbers (incl. the first woman)
in course of an expedition to Swiss Alps led by Erika Ader (Nõo)
two groups of climbers from Tallinn (led by V. Vladimirov - 15 climbers and
U. Grauen - 11 climbers incl. the first two Estonian women Els Kütt and
Aili Grauen) ascend
Mt. Kilimanjaro (5963m, the highest peak of the continent of Africa)
in an attempt to ascend
Pik Pobeda
(7439m, Tien Shan),
a group of 3 climbers led by T. Sarmet reach so-called Black Obelisk (7100m)
the Estonian membership in
UIAA is stopped
(postponed due to financial problems)
1995
Rein Grabbi (residing in USA) is the first Estonian to ascend
Aconcagua
(6962m, the highest peak of the continent of South America, the
Andes)
Matterhorn
(4478m) is ascended (via Hörnligrat) by a group of 5 climbers
led by T. Sarmet
1996
"Firn" resumes its activities after nearly two years
of stagnation caused by recent political and economical changes in Estonia,
and a new group of dedicated young people (mainly students)
starts with training and alpine education process
1997
Aleksei Kovalchuk is the first climber from Estonia to climb over 8000m:
he ascends Cho Oyu
(8201m, Himalaya)
two groups from Tallinn led by T. Sarmet (4 climbers)
and J. Künnap (3 climbers) ascend
Aconcagua
(6962m, the Andes)
"The First Estonian Women's Expedition Elbrus'97" is organized by "Firn"
(and led by K. Muru) - some young climbers ascend the Eastern Summit of
Mt. Elbrus (5621m)
in
Central Caucasus
the "Rock Climbing Club of Tallinn"
("
Tallinna Kaljuronimisklubi") is founded by 14 active climbers
in Tallinn;
the first in Estonia climbing gym is opened in Tallinn
the "Mountain Expeditions Club"
("Mägiekspeditsioonide Klubi" = MEK) is founded in Tallinn
1998
the tradition of an annual ice-climbing competition
held at Rannamõisa see-bank near Tallinn is revived by MEK
a series (becoming annual) of "Opened Estonian Rock Climbing Competitions"
is initiated by the
Rock Climbing Club of Tallinn
Estonian flag is for the first time hoisted as high as 8600m by Boris Slepikovsky (Sillamäe) who participates with A. Kovalchuk in an international expedition to
Mt. Everest
(Himalaya),
both climbing over 8500m
five Estonian climbers ascend
Cho Oyu (8201m) from
Tibet in course of the
First Estonian Himalayan Expedition led by T. Sarmet:
on 9 October - Aarne Sarapuu and Tarmo Riga; on 11 Oct. - Margus Proos,
Raivo Plumer, T. Sarmet
1999
in course of an expedition organized by the MEK and
led by T. Sarmet, seven Estonian climbers (T. Sarmet, Ivar Lai, Urmas Leppmets, Ivar Mäerand, R. Plumer, Raul Vahisalu, Andrus Öövel) ascend
Mt. McKinley
(6194m, Alaska)
on 31 May
a group organized by the "Youth Travel Club" ("Noorte Matkaklubi", Tallinn)
and led by its founder Valdo Kangur makes on 15 April a
winter ascent to the Eastern Summit of
Mt. Elbrus (5621m,
Central Caucasus)
and descends using snowboards (Valdek Udris, Kristjan-Erik Suurväli,
Marek Hajetski, Erik Hajetski) and skis (V. Kangur, Peeter Luik, Renee Tuul;
also Ilka Uusitalo and Mika Seppänen from Finland)
the Mountaineering Club Firn
("Alpiklubi Firn")
is founded on 18 May by an initiative group of
21 climbers in Tartu to continue the activities of
the 'previous edition' of "Firn" (with official name "Tartu Alpiklubi Firn"),
which is officially discontinued being unable to fit the new law system;
the descendant club has a new statute and well defined membership,
but the symbolics of the old "Firn" is taken over
the "Jaan Künnap's Mountaineering Club"
("
Jaan Künnapi Alpinismiklubi", JKAK) is created in Tallinn
in place of the disappeared Mountaineering Club of Tallinn
by an experienced Estonian climber and art photographer
Jaan Künnap
an 'Estonian invasion' to
Mont Blanc (4807m,
Western Alps):
somehow, several Estonian groups with far over 100 participants ascend the
'Top of the Western Europe' during the summer months, mostly
from the Italian side (via the
Aiguilles Grises route, but also via the
Three-Mont-Blanc route)
in course of an expedition to
the Pamirs organized by
JKAK (becoming, as well as
Mt. Elbrus
expedition, an annual enterprise), two climbers (Alar Linna, Erik Hints) ascend Pik Lenin
(7134m)
Balticum'99 is organized by "Firn" and held in Tartu
a reunion meet dedicated to the 40th anniversary of "Firn" is held in Tartu;
four of the historical
presidents of "Firn" participate in the show
2000
the first Estonian Open Interclub Icewall-Climbing Competition
is organized at the end of March by NMK and
JKAK at Rannamõisa
in course of an expedition organized by NMK and led by V. Kangur
six Estonian climbers (Toomas Sumeri, B. Slepikovsky, Toomas Holmberg,
Jüri Vilismäe, V. Kangur, V. Udris) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m);
on 21 August V. Udris descends from the top with his snowboard (second such
descent at all and the first one via the North Face of the peak)
the tradition of electing the club's best climbers and
hikers of the season is revived by "Firn" on the basis of the new
statute
"Firn" decides to establish an electronic database containing
information on the routes passed by Estonian climbers and hikers;
the database is still under construction
the tradition of Estonian "mountaineer's pentathlon" -
a complex of contests including cross-country skiing, running,
climbing and some gymnastic exercises - is revived by "Firn" under the
new name of AMMV;
the first skiing competition of this new
series
is held in January at Kääriku (Southern Estonia);
"Firn" is the first club to win the new Challenge Prize called
"Sõitis Mäkke" ("Rode Into a Hill") that is established
for the best club team in the Skiing Relay-Race Competition
three JKAK climbers
(Priit Melnik, Enn Nõmmik, Alar Sikk) ascend
Mt. McKinley
(6194m, Alaska)
two Estonian climbers (R. Plumer, T. Riga) ascend
Broad Peak (8047m) in
Karakoram (Pakistan)
in course of the
Expedition organized by MEK
and led by T. Sarmet
two climbers (Urmas Peiker, Hannes Oja) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
on 23 August, V. Udris and Mart Toom ascend
Matterhorn (4478m)
via the Lion Ridge (Liongrat) route from the Italian side
the design of an
official flag of "Firn" is established in result of a contest
the first in Estonia artificial
climbing wall
with a rock-like relief is opened in September in a new shoping center
"Lõunakeskus" (LK) in Tartu; the LK wall is administered by "Firn"
2002
on 8 February, Toivo Laan ("Firn") ascends
Mt. Ararat (5165m),
being the first Estonian on the top (after J.J.F.Parrot in 1829)
on 15 May, A. Kovalchuk (Tallinn) is one of the climbers to ascend
Lhotse
(8516m, Himalaya)
in course of an expedition organized by climbers from St.Petersburg
on July 30, the flag of "Firn" is for the first time hoisted on the top
of the Italian summit of
Matterhorn (4477m)
by five climbers from Tartu (Viktor Palm, Priit Rooden, Meeri Sassian,
Vladimir Shor, Marko Veisson) after ascending it via the south-west
ridge (Liongrat, from the Italian side)
five climbers (led by J. Künnap) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
2003
on May 22, A. Sikk (Võru) ascends
Mt. Everest (8850m)
from the North Side with Saulius Vilius (Lithuania) in course of the
First Estonian Mt. Everest expedition led by T. Sarmet (MEK); Alar Sikk is the first Estonian climber to reach the highest summit on the Earth;
I. Lai reaches the altitude of 8550m everestnews.com
two climbers (Leivo Sepp, Marko Kalve) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
2004
in April-May, Rain Lond and M. Kalve cross the Greenland icefield on skis from east to west without dogs or any external support in course of their
Greenland expedition (32 days,
~570 km), thus repeating the achievement of the historic expedition led by
Fridtjof Nansen
back in 1888
a new handbook for hikers and climbers ('Matkaspordi Käsiraamat', in
Estonian, compiled by J. Künnap) contains a section on the history
of mountaineering in Estonia
2005
in course of an expedition
organized by JKAK,
two climbers (K.-E. Suurväli, Meelis Nurk) ascend
Aconcagua
(6962m, the Andes)
on August 7, five climbers (K.-E. Suurväli + Priit Joosu, H. Oja,
P. Rooden, Priit Simson) ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7106m); on August 17, P. Joosu ascends
Ismail Samani
(7495m, the former Pik Kommunizma)
on August 17, T. Laan and Kalle Ribelus ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
in August, 22 Estonian climbers (two of them only 13 years old) ascend
Kazbek (5047m) in
Central Caucasus
in course of an expedition to Georgian mountains organized by V. Kangur
(becoming an annual enterprise)
on 5 October, five climbers (Silver Aid, Marko Aid, Peeter Pihelgas,
Eduard Aksjonov, Jürgen Saarniit) ascend
Mt. Ararat (5165m)
on 26 November, 37 Estonian climbers ascend
Mt. Kilimanjaro
(5963m), thus establishing a new world record of the number of climbers
(all belonging to the same nation) ascending Mt. Kilimanjaro in one day (the
previous record was 32 climbers from USA)
on 13 January, five climbers (Jane Riga, A. Sikk, P. Melnik, T. Riga,
T. Sumeri) ascend
Vinson Massif
(4892m, the highest peak of the continent of
Antarctica)
in course of the first Estonian
Antarctica expedition
on 20 July, three climbers (J. Kütt, Tõnu Põld,
Olavi Vaino) ascend
Matterhorn (4478m)
E. Habakuk ("Firn") ascends (with a French group)
Mt. McKinley
(6194m, Alaska),
being the first Estonian woman to ascend the peak
on 16 August, five climbers (Tiina Tamm, P. Joosu, J. Saarniit,
Üllar Põld, Raimo Rotberg) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m);
T. Tamm (Tallinn) is the second Estonian woman to ascend the peak
in course of an expedition organized by V. Kangur,
four climbers (Argo Mere, Fred Viidul, Tarmo All, I. Mäerand) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m);
on 18 August, A. Mere is the first Estonian to descend the peak with skis
(via its North Face); a day later, V. Kangur repeats such a descent
starting from the altitude of 6900m
a new 8m high artificial
climbing wall
with a rock-like relief (being the second wall of this type in Tartu)
is opened in the new sports hall of the
University of Tartu
on 2 December, A. Sikk, A. Kaasik, and Ervin Mast are the
first Estonian climbers to ascend
Carstensz Pyramid
(or Puncak Jaya, 4884m), the highest mountain of the continent of
Australia and Oceania, located on the island of
New Guinea
in the end of December, E. Habakuk ascends
Aconcagua
(6962m, the Andes)
on 27 January, A. Sikk ascends
Mt. Kilimanjaro
(5963m), becoming the first Estonian climber to ascend the highest mountains on the seven continents (the
Seven Summits)
in course of their one month long (starting 8 May)
Greenland expedition,
Timo Palo (Estonia) and Audun Tholfsen (Norway) cross the Greenland icefield on skis from east to west without dogs or any external support
on 9 July, Eva Liivak ("Firn") falls to her death while descending in a
group of 6 from the summit of
Aiguille du Chardonnet
(3824m, French Alps)