The Rivers of Maritime Alps

OOPS! (as of Winter '94):

As you might have noticed, if you read the newspapers or watched the telly, the Maritime Alps region suffered very badly from flooding during the last part of 1994. Whole villages got washed downstream, bridges disappeared..... as you can guess, all bets are off for the description of these rivers. I have been told that the flooding also got the Verdon cachement and about 1000 cumex were chugging down the gorge at one point. It's a fair bet that things will be quite different now.

Contents

  1. Var
  2. Coulomp
  3. Tinée
  4. Vesubie
  5. Esteron
  6. Loup
  7. Siagne
  8. Verdon

Upper Var 11km Grade III(IV) {}

Get in at the D2202 bridge below Entraunes and get out below the road bridge in Guillaumes. A couple of good grade IV sections, better with some water.

Var - Daluis Gorge 10km Grade III 1½ hours {96}

This is a beautiful paddle with a fantastic gorge. We drove up and got in at a bridge about 1km below Guillaumes where the D2202 crosses over the river. You can certainly get in higher than this, but we had fairly low water and the region upstream looked like a poor paddle. Below here, the river is quite easy with only occasional obstructions to negotiate. As you pass under a really high bridge at the entrance to the gorge, look out for the bungie jumpers! The gorge below here is quite spectacular and in parts is almost perfectly vertical. The get out at the next bridge after the gorge, or about 1km further down at some gravel beds where there is a nice bivi spot which is quite popular with Germans. This is reached by turning down to the river just north of Daluis.

The Coulomp 9 km Grade III {}

Get in at the N202 road bridge about 2 km below Annot, then get out at the N202 bridge below the confluence with the Var. Needs a heap of rain.

The Tinée 14km Grade IV then V {}

Hop on at St Etienne from the D2205 and go on down to the Pont Rouge below Bourguet ant grade IV. Below this bridge is a grade V rapid and the remaining 8 km down to Isola contains two more sections of up to grade V. Get out before the barrage at Isola.

The Vesubie {}

The Esteron {}

The Loup {}

The Siagne {}

The Upper Verdon {}

Supposedly you can do:

but I don't know, especially the third one there. I don't know where you'd get on at Castellane. The dam there is bloody enormous!

The Verdon Gorge 30 km Grade V {94}

A fascinating place. The Verdon is dammed up by Castellane and the barrage here controls the water flow into the river. You need to find out if they are releasing before you bother going down there really. To get to Castellane is about 3 hours from Barcellonete. It might be quicker from Embrun as the roads that way are better. However, it seems that there is a release every year on the first weekend in July. The local EDF and the paddlers organise a sort of event. This is probably a good time to try the gorge. There's a good campsite by the main road in La Palud.

The easiest and normal get in is at the confluence of the Verdon and the Jabron about 13km down the D952 from Castellane. There is a small bridge over the river to a picnic area which makes a fine bivi spot (Pont de Carajuan). From here to the Couloir Samson is about 4km grade III with 2 falls of grade IV. The first by the road 200m from the Pont de Carajuan and the other right at the end by the Couloir Sampson. Both are easily spotted and portaged if need be.

After the Couloir Sampson begins the gorge proper. 22km grade IV with a small number of harder falls. The main difficulty with this river (at least at the 21cumex we had) is the severity of any mistakes. The water is constantly going through sumps some of which are quite hard to avoid. In a few places the river is completely blocked and in two places you actually enter a cavern. The other problem to be addressed is the length. The gorge took us 10 hours including a couple of swims, one of which probably used up an hour...so take lunch!

The main difficulties are:

  1. "L'Estelie" As soon as you see a metal foot bridge over the river hop out on river left. The 100m or so before and after this bridge are dangerous due to siphons so inspect carefully. Bank support 20m before to bridge is essential, and 70m below is a nasty siphon which apparently gobbled Suzy (as in makes the throwbags) way back. You might not be as lucky!
  2. "Guillotine" err we missed it! Basically there is a narrow boats width passage somewhere where you scoot along right by the cliff and think you'll never get out alive until you get to the end. Can get blocked by wood.
  3. "Styx" Pretty obvious when you get there. You are suddenly presented with the option of going into a cavern or getting out on river left. You can inspect or portage easily from the left bank. The danger here is as the water sweeps around the bend in the cave, half of the flow is sumping under the river right wall. Bank support is essential here, a swimmer almost certainly will not make it.
  4. "L'Imbout" By a large gravel bank on the left is a dangerous sump, fairly easily got around after which the river enters a tall, dark and narrow cave. Go with the flow and paddle through about 200m until you reach a log jam and climb out the hole in the roof to seal launch into the pool on the other side. You may also be able to squeeze through the hole at water level but it depends on the height of the boat and how lard-arsed you are!
  5. Without much warning that I can remember the river disappears under a huge block. If the water level is right you can squeeze through the hole on the left. Under the block is clear and unobstructed and while I was there a number of people capsized and popped up OK the other side, but I don't think it's to be recommended.
  6. Just around a bend, a large chockstone blocks the river. Best portaged river right and seal launch off the chockstone itself.
  7. The paddle out! It's a long way along the bit of flooded gorge at the end and mind out for the tourists in their pedallos. We paddled under the bridge where the lake begins to open out and got out on the left hand side where there's a large car park.

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Copyright © 1989 - 1997 Pat Thoyts

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