Routes Update

NEW ROUTES

Climber's Newsletter November 1997
NB all L and R are orientated to facing the rock

Cave Rock:

Cave Rock is the next big lump of rock further into Kg Laksamana/Kg Wira Damai. It is in front of a football field and (surprise, surprise) has a HUGE cave in it. Get a cheap thrill from the huge boulder stuck in the cave mouth.
(L to R when facing the rock)

1. MONKEY'S HIGHWAY, 2 pitches, natural pro (mostly slings), bolted anchor. 5C. 40m.
1st pitch: Starts below the smaller cave mouth with the boulder in it. Follow "V" shaped crackline to cave mouth and a threaded anchor. From there traverse horizontally across left to a big tree. Behind the tree is a bolt.
2nd pitch. Follow the bolt up, and then traverse R into a huge scoop. Climb the line of least resistance to steeper ground and the anchor.
(F.A.:Yuen-Li and Yen; end 1996)

2. MONSOON, 25m, 6a, mixed bolted and slings.
Start on the face to the right. Go up and traverse left to climb the ramp on the right side of the cave. Anchors at the ledge over the top of the cave mouth.
(F.A.: Yuen-Li and Yen; end 1996)

WHITE WALL:

Introduction

This has been the main area of development in Batu Caves in 1997. It is an inspiring cliff - very high with nice views at the top, sheltered and great rock. The climbs are very vertical, giving balancy climbing on crimpy, granite-like holds. All are high quality climbs.

Directions

From the football field in front of Cave Rock, if you look to the left and up a little, you will be able to see White Wall. Walk along the paved keeping the community centre and shops to your right. Keeping walking past the houses and take the second turning on the right. Head towards the big white cliff to your right. Follow the road past two junctions until the road leads in to two houses and some small ponds and a smelly drain in between. Cross the drain carefully and follow the obvious footpath uphill into the jungle. Keep scrambling uphill for 5 min until you reach the flat rock face.
A word of advice : bring a plastic sheet/mat as the belay area is very dusty.

Directions : Routes L to R

1. RAINBOW CONNECTION 5c, 15m
Short route on the leftmost part of the cliff. Climb to the shelf about midway then a choice of going left or right of the bolts. Finishes at a red rope anchor.
(Yuen-Li, Kioshi, Lina, March 1997)

Continuation 6a
Carry on past the anchor to the big crack and small roof at the arete. Exciting moves to the anchor on the high shelf.
(Akmal, August 1997)

2. (unnamed) 7a/6c+, 25m
Starts up the blank and balancey grey face. Follow the easy crackline and large pockets to a heinous finish.
(Rizal, Yuen-Li, August 1997)

3. Ist JULY SPECIAL 6b, 25m
Same anchor and last bolt as 4. Starts directly under the partly formed stalagtite where razor sharp holds await. Easier climbing leads to a small upside down mantleshelf. Climb diagonally to an overhanging finish.
(Rizal, Yuen-Li, Akmal, July 1997)

4. OPIUM WAR 6a+, 25m
Starts up large crack then traverses Left on the white slab. Follow corner then crack line up till the overhanging roof.
(Yuen-Li, Rizal, Akmal, July 1997)

5. BEYOND CLOUDS 6b, 32m. Can be done in two pitches as there is an anchor at 25m.
BEWARE OF LENGTH. Ensure that rope is long enough.
Starts at the three hand pockets in an otherwise blank wall. After the first anchor, the route follows the stalagmite formation up to and over the roof that tops the cliff.
(Yuen-Li, Peter Andrich, Kioshi, Jan 1997)

6. KAVADI 6c+, 25m
Starts just one meter right of Beyond Clouds.
(Rizal, Yuen-Li August 1997)

7. CHILLI PADI 7a, 35m
Starts just of the big, dusty white and black pillar. Very technical climbing on crimping holds.
(Kioshi March 1997)

8. FAKE MEAT 6b, 15m
The bold first move starts at the grey undercuts. 3 bolts lead to the anchor on a large white ledge.
(Bill Tucker, Yuen-Li May 1997)

9. CARCASS ROCK 6a+, 20m
Superb climbing up the stalagtite formation. A diagonal crack leaning left to more stalagtites and the anchor on a large shrlf.
(Kioshi Jan 1997)

10. KIOSHI'S DELIGHT 6b, 20m
Starts on a very blank wall just behind the tree. Climb through the stalagtites to a sling and the anchor.
(Kioshi, Jan 1997)

11. ENTER THE DRAGON 6c Natural Protection, 25m
Follow the crack up to the three big rock steps. First step is 6a, second is 6b and the third is 6c. Leads to a small sturdy tree which is the anchor. Be careful of the 6c step as protection has the tendency to fall out when doing the crux moves.

All bolts and anchors on these climbs were sponsored by Nomad Adventure Sdn Bhd, a company run by climbers for climbers. Nomad runs climbing courses and supplies premium climbing equipment. Part of the profits from the sale of gear is channelled into development of climbing in Malaysia.

For more information or if you just want to chat about the outdoors, email Hui Peng by clicking here or Yuen Li by clicking here.

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