ROUTES

CLIMBING ROUTES KUALA LUMPUR

Climber's Newsletter Jan 1996

ROUTES AND ACCESS

Shorter Trail to Bukit Takun
Calling adventure climbing enthusiasts! A "new" trail leading to Bukit Takun shortens the walk by more than half. It also by-passes the golf course and eliminates previous access problems.
To find the trail, drive as normal to Bukit Takun but at the T junction, instead of turning left to the golf course, turn right. Follow the road around and head towards a large reservoir. Follow the road that obviously leads as close and as high up as possible up Bukit Takun. The road is a dead end and there is a concrete drain leading up the hill into the jungle. Follow this and after a steep climb, join the old trail heading towards the rock. Bukit Takun still offers the best crack climbing and traditional "natural pro" routes in all of Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore. See you there with your friends!

Red Rocks, Batu Caves

Introduction

Red Rocks was probably the most significant development for climbing in Kuala Lumpur in 1995. Red Rocks is an excellent sport climbing crag for climbers of all abilities. It is well protected from the sun and remains dry even in heavy rain. Most of the routes feature a short and gymnastic overhanging start. Stalagmites and hidden pockets add to the enjoyment and quality of the routes.

Access

By car: Drive past Petronas, cross the railway line and keep going until a large cross-roads with a mosque on the corner. Turn right and follow the road a distance until you see a sign on the left for KAMPUNG LAKSAMANA. Turn right immediately and follow the road around, passing a rickety bridge, until you get to a football field. Park there and walk back through the houses towards the lake. Red Rocks is the last cliff and it has a an obvious flat cleared area in front of it. It is directly behind a house which is being built.

Routes

All bolts at Red Rocks are sponsoredby NOMAD.

Orientation: Facing the flat clearing is a large bouldering section that bulges out.
On the left of the bulge, from left to right:

1. Owl face, 5c, 20m, natural pro start with bolts higher.
Start at the small valley just left of the bulge. Climb the face with the diagonal cracks then cross behind the obvious black pillar. Climb the second face, then tango rightwards onto the large lump with small trees on it. Continue straight up until the anchors.
(15/7/95 Yuen-Li, Phillip Sigmund)

2. Return of the Spotted Owl, 6a, bolted, 20m
The classic route at Red Rocks. Follow the line of bolts just behind a small stump just left of the face with diagonal cracks. At the second face, go left and up in the corner until the two bolts. There turn and casually step onto the stalagmite. Go left and up to anchors.
(15/7/95 Yuen-Li, Phillip Sigmund)

3. Power Pull, 6c, a top-rope/bouldering problem which offers a variation start for Tomodachi, 8m.
Climb from under and right of the big stalagmite formation.
(2/9/95 Kenny, Richard, Yuen-Li)

4. Mantis, 6b-, variation start for Tomodachi, bolted and slings, 8m.
Start at the large scoop and heel hook up. Follow the threaded slings and traverse around and under the stalagmite. Enjoy the hidden hand hold.
(3/9/95 Yuen-Li, Sharin and gang)

5. Tomodachi, 6b+, bolted, 20m
The must-do route at Red Rocks. Start at the large scoop and float straight up between the stalagmites on strenuous moves. Follow remaining bolts on thin moves to anchors.
(15/8/95 Asada, Yuen-Li, Khairul, Kenny)

6. Blood Brothers, 6c, bolted, 10m
A quality route on thin and strenuous moves between the next two stalagmites on the left.
(10/9/95 Yuen-Li, Kenny, Richard)

Right of the buldge, from left to right

7. Sweet Child of Mine, 6b+/6c, bolted, 22m
The first bolt is between the 2 stalagmites in the small valley. Follow the grey patch on the rock on hidden pockets to the hanging stalagmite. The crux is the small roof formed by the stalagmite.
(Nov 95 Yuen-Li, Yen, Kenny, Shafiee)

8. Nacho Cheese (7b), bolted, 24m
Starts just right of Sweet Child on the big terrace. Try to avoid the terrace and follow the bolt line.
(May 96, Kioshi Yoshida)

9. Yen's Route, 6b+/6c, bolted, 22m
Climbs the large and obvious stalagmite in the middle of the cliff. At the ledge, go right around the corner and straight up.
(June 95, Yen, Kenny, Khairul)

10. Cool Ranch, 7a, bolted, 20m
Just right of Yen's route. From the terrace go straight up the arete, crossing left of Yen's route.
(May 96, Kioshi Yoshida)

11. The First Temptation, 6b, unfinished 12m,
Starts directly behind the water tank. Follow the pockets and threaded slings to a hanging belay.
(1/1/96 Yuen-Li, Izan)

12. Atlantis, 5c/6a, Natural pro, 2 pitches, bolted anchors. Need 50m rope and lots of slings.Friends 2,3.5 useful.
1st pitch: Start on the ramp above the water tank and climb the pocketed face furthest right until a cave.15m
2nd pitch: Traverse left for about 10m and then climb upwards to the hanging belay next to a tree. 15m
(3/7/95 Yuen-Li, Kenny)

Batu Caves, Quarry Area

1. Holy Sun Wall : project 4/5b

2. Riverbed Wall

Family Climb, 2 pitches, bolted, 95m, need 2 ropes.
1st pitch : grade 3 / 4, 4 bolts
2nd pitch : grade 4 / 5, 4 bolts

3. Marble Wall (Routes right to left)
Breeze Climb, 30m, 5c/A1, 10 bolts free, 3 bolts aid.
first overhand aid, 2nd overhand free.
Dihedral, 25m, 6b+, not yet bolted (top rope)
Project, 15m, 5a/6b, not yet bolted, not completed.
(All climbs by Peter Andrich, Allan Tan. Jul-Aug 1995)

For more information or if you just want to chat about the outdoors, email Hui Peng by clicking here or Yuen Li by clicking here.

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