Waterproofing Electrical Splices
- Start by making a good mechanical connection with a crimp connector. Tug on the wires to test the strength (double crimping on each end of the splice sometimes helps). Then seal the connection with liquid neoprene. You'll probably find it called liquid tape at a supply house. Avoid getting the water based stuff if possible. The solvent based product makes a tougher skin. It usually takes two or three coats to completely seal the connector. When the neoprene is dry either wrap it with electrical tape or better cover it with heat shrink. The covering keeps the neoprene from being scraped off.
Oil Failure on the Water (outboards)
- If the oil failure warning on you outboard sounds off you need to handle the situation immediately. The best thing to do is dump oil into the gas tank (try to mix it at 50:1) and head on in. This means you need to keep some extra oil on board. In a pinch you can use the oil from the external oil supply tank.
Stripped Screws
- If the screw in a fiberglass hull strips out you might try using drywall anchors as a repair. They hold better than a larger screw and might be easier to use than a machine screw and nut.
Battery Cable Gauge for Troll Motors
| Cable Length | up to 10 feet | 11 to 15 feet | 16 to 20 feet |
| Minimum size | 8 gauge | 6 gauge | 4 gauge |
This info is based on OMC recommendations for their troll motors. Those motors are rated at a maximum of 36 amps. Note that this is a minimum size. "If it doesn't seem big enough use the next bigger size."
John's Tip for Electrical Corrosion:
- Here's my tip for preventing corrosion on trailer light harnesses and battery terminals. It works best if applied to "new" connectors but as long as the components are CLEAN it will still work. Apply a light coating of Triple Guard Grease (OMC) or Spline Grease (Mercury) to the electrical connection on your trailer every year or so and you'll never loose your trailer lights due to corrosion. Works great on lug nuts too!
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