Equip Yourself for PolingIf you passed the "I have the right boat" test, you could use a pole. Twelve foot poles are hard to come by, but here are the two routes you can take: consulting Garrett Conover's book "Beyond the Paddle" (1991, Tillbury House Publishers, Gardiner, Maine - of course), you will find yourself in pursuit of a piece of clear spruce, 1.5 inches by 1.5. I'll tell you a secret: Don't bother looking in Home Depot. I found the clearest piece of spruce (which is what your basic two by four is made of), and cut it down into squares. Using a hand plane, I knocked off the corners to make it octagonal, then knocked those corners off too. I also tapered it from 1.5 inches at the foot to slightly less than 1 inch at the top. I shoed it with a piece of chrome sink drain pipe and stuck a lag bolt in the end. Finally, I wrapped and sanded fiberglass around the spots with knots. It worked nice for a while, but the swelling of the wet wood finally popped the fiberglass, and I heard a big "crack" the last time I leaned over the gunwale with it, ascending a chute through a beaver dam.
Which is best? They both have advantages. The Aluminum is lighter, won't have any weakening defects, stows nicely in the canoe (you can tie it off inside the gunwale, out of the way, and it will spring back straight when you untie it). It also chills your hands (nasty in cold weather), transmits ear-splitting clankity-clanks as it smacks the rocks underwater. Birds fly from their perches, animals flee in terror. The wood is quiet, easy on the hands, and plenty strong if it has no knots or defects. It doesn't bend into the gunwale as nicely and tends to take a curved shape after a short time of stowage. This curve doesn't seem to affect performance though. I made mine tapered and shoed only on one end, but I could stick either end in the water, in a pinch. I guess, if I could find a decent chunk of spruce, I'd want a 12 foot woody.
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