Cozumel
Back to the Plaza...



Date: July 05, 2000 - - July 09, 2000
Airline: Continental - - Austin, Texas to Houston, Texas to San Miguel, Cozumel
Hotel: Plaza Las Glorias ($748 including 2 tank boat dives for 3 days and air fare)
Dive Operator: Dive Paradise (Afternoon dive $10, Night Dive $32)
Tips: $2.50 / dive / diver
Travel Agency: Bay Adventure Inc
Food and Drinks: $275
Transfers to/from Airport: $15
Park Fee: $2/person (only one fee for the week)
Gifts and souvenirs: $100
Total cost: $1225
Weather: Hot 95 degrees, Scattered Showers
Divers: Dan W., Rick H., Mike S.

The airline, Continental Airlines pretty much gets an 'A' for this trip. All flights were on time and we made it with all our luggage. Nothing interesting about the flight... which is a good thing.

At the San Miguel airport, each passenger must purchase a transfer ticket for about $8. What appears to be unclear is whether the transfer included the round trip fare. The driver of our suburban taxi took both parts of the ticket. We are not sure, but, we think we should have received part of it back as the return ticket. Guess we will never know...

The hotel, Plaza Las Glorias had improved over our first experience. The water was one of the most significant improvements. Previously, the water more resembled the color tea rather than any thing I've ever seen coming out of a faucet. None the less, we still chose to stick to bottled water. They were in the process of painting some of the areas on the lower floors and the premises had been very well cared for over the years. The hotel was generally crowded during our stay with some real nice scenery lounging around the pool area. Across the street, a new "supermarket" has opened which made it handy for those items which you may forget at home. It's pretty much a third world version of Walmart.

The only complaint came when a six pack of glass bottles hit the floor of our room and we couldn't get any one from the hotel to cleanup the broken glass. It basically sat there for an entire day and night until we checked out.

The food was too enjoyable! We ate way too much. My favorite restaurant turned out to be very reliable. La Mission, just a block or two east of the plaza, serves excellent food. In addition, the food preparation is something interesting to see as well. The lights were turned down a couple times as the waiters prepared these blue flaming drinks. Unfortunately, there are now two La Mission restaurants and they may have very similar menus, but the food quality was definitely not the same. The newer restaurant, just south of the plaza, did not meet the standards of the older one east of the plaza. It was a disappointment to say the least.

We returned to both Guido's (north of the plaza) and Las Palmeras (on the plaza) for two of our other outings. Both restaurants upheld the quality of both food and service we have come to enjoy from these establishments.

The dive operators Dive Paradise turned out to be a bit of a disappointment when compared to our previous experience with Aqua Safari. Although, we also had a negative experience with Aqua Safari at the hotel. We attempted to rent tanks from Aqua Safari for a checkout dive on our first day. They refused to let one of our divers dive because he is diabetic. He has been diving since 1995 and has never had a problem or been turned down by dive operator. We wondered if Aqua Safari didn't want to rent us gear because the bulk of our dives had been part of a package deal with Dive Paradise.

Dive Paradise did give us tanks to use but we had to drag our gear down to the Barracuda Hotel in order to complete our checkout dive. On the first day, our boat was nearly an hour late. Turns out, Dive Paradise was leasing this boat because of a peak in the number of divers during the July time frame. The boat, Lorena, barely classified as a dive boat. All of our gear was basically piled in the center of the boat and you had to sift through the pile to find your equipment. This boat, and I use the term lightly, could have been out maneuvered by any child in a rowboat. Since the boat lacked anything that resembled speed, we were only able to make it to some the reefs close to the hotel. We refused to be booked on this boat again. Another problem we ran into with Dive Paradise appeared to be the result of the dive masters' desire to only go on short trips. Unfortunately, the best reefs are the farthest from the hotel. In defense of the dive masters, we were told they had been working long days with hardly any time off. So I can see their reluctance to make the longer trips. However, we paid to go to some where other than the shallow reefs. On the last day, several of the divers on the boat banded together and basically demanded to go to the reefs on the south end of the island. We were not disappointed, although it did rain on us along the way.

There were some high lights to the diving. We did have a couple dive masters who did an excellent job. On our night dive, the dive master pointed out several items, including two small sea horses (my first) as well as several octopi and a school of squid. In addition, I got to see my first Mantra Ray off of the San Francisco Wall. The best diving was definitely on the last day.

There were a couple of, lets say, interesting experiences during our dive trip. Both occurred close to the International pier. The first occurred just after we had entered the water. Turns out we entered on top of one of the tourist submarines. The second incident occurred as we were ending a dive. We were in the middle of our deco-stop when the dive master began to frantically bang on his tank. Turns out we were about to surface under one of the cruise ships. We surfaced a few feet from the cruise ship but the current began drawing us closer. The dive boat was no-where in sight. We had to swim against the current until it pushed us past the back of the boat. By this time our captain finally arrived. The current was rather strong and some people were having difficulty boarding the boat. In fact on woman lost a fin when she was fighting the current and trying to hold on to the boat. This appears to have happened to several other divers in the last year. The September issue of the Undercurrent newsletter documented stories from other divers who also ended up too close to the cruise ships. (www.undercurrent.orgy)

A couple divers from our group did return with some lost treasures. We found a Scubapro weight belt (with 20+lbs of weight) and an integrated weight pouch.

If you have ever dove in Cozumel or any other major dive sight, you are familiar with the typical dive procedures. Every dive starts with the pre-dive briefing. Unfortunately, after diving in Cozumel for several years, you will have heard the same speech repeated over and over. After hearing it 40 or more times, you will be pretty much disgusted at the waste of your time. Sooner or later some one will figure this out, unless the lawyers get involved and then we will be doomed to listen to the same speech forever just like the one given by the flight attendants...

The trip included two divers who had never been to Cozumel and two returning divers. Overall, the trip was successful with only a few minor irritations. Cozumel is definitely growing, which has some benefits such as the supermarket, but may one day become just another tourist trap. The increased number of cruise ships was proof of this fact. When the cruise ships arrived, every store, bar and taxi were filled with tourist. There was a noticeable difference every time a cruise ship departed or arrived. One of the hot spots for the sea going passengers was Carlos and Charles. There was an abundance of drinking and dancing and barely enough room to walk around anywhere inside. In addition, they had a lot of entertaining events to keep the crowd partying hard and drinking to excess. It appears the Texas women were winning the beer chugging contest (from a baby bottle) as well as the best tattoo contest! The general age of the crowd varied such that almost every age from 21-50 had a substantial representation. Carlos and Charlies is definitely the place to be when the ships arrive.

The shopping in Cozumel is also still reasonable. There are many bargains to be found and they are still willing to negotiate. If you have time, try some of the stores on the edge of town. The prices do vary from store to store.

The diving remains excellent as well as the water clarity. The abundance of sea life appears to be flurishing and the reefs appear to be holding up to the increasing number of divers. Although the water is fairly warm, some type of protection is still recommended due to the increased dispersion of heat caused by the current. Usually, a dive skin or polartech will suffice.

The only item missing in Cozumel's diving is a sunken wreck to dive. It would be a nice addition to the diving and could help relieve some of the stress on the reefs by moving the divers to a new location.


Daily Dive Log

Water Temp: 80+
Dive Log No. 66-75
Computer Dives

July 05, 2000
Dive Location: Barracuda Hotel - Checkout (45mn@20ft)

July 06, 2000
Dive Location: Santa Rosa Wall (34mn@83ft)
Dive Location: Los Palmos (44@66)
Dive Location: Villa Blanca Wall (42@65)

July 07, 2000
Dive Location: San Francisco (43mn@90ft)
Dive Location: Paradise Reef (50@49)
Dive Location: Villa Blanca Wall (night) (45@52)

July 08, 2000
Dive Location: Palancar Gardens (37mn@83ft)
Dive Location: Tormentos Reef (47@61)
Dive Location: Balones de Chancanab (40@68)


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