Bait Tank's

Homemade



cooler baittank

I use this tank if fishing in smaller boat's.

This is a simple bait tank but effective for keeping bait lively especially herring, minnows, or a small number of shad.

Place a 500gph bilge pump a little more than halfway down the inside of the cooler. Just screw the bilge pump to the side of the tank drill a hole and run wire thru then caulk with silicone. I extend the wire leads and install clips to snap on the battery.

Changing the water whenever I get foam or dirt on the water surface. The pump circulates the water. The bait is then forced to swim and take in oxygen by the water flowing across their gills. I have tryed many things from airators to pumping in oxygen and this has worked the best for me and is much simpler.

I have used an insulated cooler in this example. This keeps the water temperature the same for a longer period of time. Any tank may be used depending on how much money you want to invest. The tank or barrel should be round to keep the bait from stacking into corners and getting red nosed.




In the diagram below is a tank that I use in larger boats. It will hold more bait than the above tank but is more complicated in its construction.

large tankI use a 30 gallon barrel but a smaller barrel may be used but should be at least 15 gallon. Barrel's should be cleaned thouroughly to remove all traces of whatever it had origanally contained.

The water fill line is run to transom and is vinyl flex tubing. It is attached to a thru hull pump of at least 600gph that should have a screen to keep trash out of the pump. The pump may be run if anchored or slow trolling. When the boat is moving rapidly it will not pick up water and should be shut off. I empty the barrell with a coffee can or 2 gallon bucket. ****You may rig a bilge pump with 4-5ft. of tubing to empty and fill the tank. This externally rigged bilge pump can then be lowered into the tank to empty it or lowered into lake or river to fill the tank. This would eliminate the job of having to dip water out of the tank. This would also eliminate the transom pump and water fill line. This is a matter of personal preference.

Once again as in the first bait tank the bilge pump in the tank is used to circulate water and force the bait to swim.

I have not included in the diagram or text all the connecting fittings and wiring connections as these can be different according to availability in your area and boat design. Use your own judgement(ideas) on how you want to place tank and design changes remembering that you are adding weight to the boat and should allow for that effect. I also have not included a top or cover on the tank. I use a top or cover I made by pop riveting a lid to the barrel. I made this lid from the top of another barrel. Here again you can use wood or whatever you prefer for the lid.

If using the permanent method of water feed line remember to keep the connecting tubing running constantly uphill with out any sags to keep the tube from airlocking.


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