Spectacles – You will need period spectacles or contacts. Along with shoes, this should be the first items purchased. Eyeglasses should be from the 1850-60’s. Do not buy reproductions as none we have seen meet our requirements.

Shoes – Federal issue type, rawhide laces and pegged or sewn soles.

Foot Pattern Trousers – Trousers should be sky blue kersey wool with a diagonal weave in Schuylkill, J.T. Martin or Deering patterns. Features include split vents on cuffs, right side waist band seam watch pocket, side seam pockets starting below the waist seam, narrow tapering waist band and three to five button fly. Trousers were issued in the following sizes: 1 – waist 32"x 31" inseam, 2 – waist 34"x 32" inseam, 3- waist 36"x 33" and 4 – waist 38"x 34". We recommend you stick to these sizes if possible. If the only problem is that the legs are too long, then just roll them up.

Sack Coat – Dark blue light weight flannel with a diagonal weave. Correct coats, although lined, do have a looser weave than most sutler row coats, so they are cooler. Features include short collar, four brass buttons, small scalloped vent in rear of the cuff, one piece body lining of wool or cotton/wool weave and a sleeve lining of muslin. Sack coats were issued in the following sizes: 1 – 36, 2 – 38, 3 – 40 and 4 – 42. Try to stick to these sizes if possible. Remember that coats will shrink if they get wet.

Shirts – Federal issue wool flannel or civilian style shirt. Shirts should be either checkered, striped, or solid colors with proper buttons. Porcelain is preferrable on civilian shirts. Stay away from print shirts. Solid colors should not be bright. Fabric should not be a very thin light weight cotton.

Socks – 100 % wool socks.

Drawers – These are not a required item but are very useful. They make your wool trousers more comfortable to wear and if you tuck them into your socks you can protect yourself from insects. Features should include raised back waist, legs extend to lower calf, narrow fly and constructed of muslin, linen or flannel.

Suspenders – Suspenders should be period suspenders. A majority of suspenders you will see on sutler row are not correct. The less expensive option is to make your own. Use pieces of period fabric and cut button holes into them for your trousers.

Headgear – Since we primarily portray Western Federal soldiers, period black slouch hats, hardee hats or forage caps are all correct. Forage caps should be dark blue with chin strap and visor, early war version is preferable. Headgear is one item that may change depending upon the event. Model 1858 black Hardees and slouch hats should be made of beaver felt and black with a period lining. If you plan to use the Hardees on campaign, it can be shaped to suit. Black slouch hats should be of period patterns such as beehive, porkpie and mosby hats. When purchasing slouch hats make sure it is of period pattern! Do not put anything on any of these hats except a company letter unless the scenario calls for it. Slouch and Hardee hats should not have the pinched effect on the front of crown. Look at original photos for guidance.

Weapon – The first preference is an 1861 Springfield .58 caliber rifled musket with second preference an 1853 Three Band Enfield struck bright. These two choices are correct at most events. Other acceptable firearms include the 1842 and 1855 Springfield muskets. The 1861 Springfields should be manufactured by either Armisport or Euroarms and the 1853 Enfields should be manufactured by Armisport as these are the most authentic reproductions. Glossy polyeurothane finishes should be removed from the stock. The Euroarms Enfield will need to be "defarbed". To defarb a Euroarms Enfield and remove the polyeurothane finish, see HOW TO IMPROVE YOUR IMPRESSION.

Belt – U.S. 1856 black leather waist belt with brass keeper and large U.S. oval belt plate.

Cartridge Box – U.S. 1855 black leather cartridge box with U.S. oval plate and correct leather sling with brass eagle plate.

Cap Box – U.S. 1850 pattern leather cap box.

Bayonet – Appropriate original or reproduction bayonet. Make sure the bayonet fits your rifle. Be careful with the reproduction bayonets, they bend very easily.

Bayonet Scabbard – U.S. waist belt two rivet gaylord pattern scabbard. Make sure your bayonet will fit into it.

Canteen – U. S. M1858 smoothside canteen with leather or proper canvas strap. Stainless steel is permitted. Cover should be either gray or brown wool or jean wool. Sky blue covers were very rare during the War as demand for sky blue wool was used for trousers and greatcoats.

Tin Cup – Cup can include a bail or a cover but not both. There is no evidence of any "Billie Cups" (cups with both bail and cover) used during the War. We recommend getting a large cup with bail as it has many uses. The cup covers aren’t very practical as they lead to rusting in the interior of the cup.

Tin Plate – You can also use a canteen half. Shallow or "pie dish" plates are both acceptable.

Utensils – Period patterns only.

Blanket – U.S. issue blankets of gray or brown wool. Regulation blankets were 5 ½’x 7’ and weighed 5 pounds. Black end stripes are preferable and should be weaved into the blanket not dyed.

Gum Blanket – Rubberized blankets. These are more practical than the poncho and were much more common. Correct dimensions are 45"x 79" with brass grommets of roughly 5/8". Beware of gums with the larger brass grommets.

Tent – For simplicity, accuracy and expense, we prefer you to sleep under the stars unless bad weather is expected. Since we portray soldiers on campaign at most events, the only tentage option is a shelter half. Shelter halves were constructed of cotton duck with rough dimensions of 66"x60" and weighed 1 ½ pounds with hand sewn button holes and grommets. Buttons should be metal or bone. Brass grommets are unacceptable. Poles and stakes should be tree branches not finished wood. Another option are the issued poles. Do not buy shelter ends as these were, at best, very rare. It is not necessary to buy two halves. Pard up with someone else as the soldiers did. A frames are acceptable for early war events but currently there is no need for anyone to buy one. There are plenty in the unit and they can easily sleep four or more soldiers.

Greatcoat – Greatcoats were made of sky blue kersey wool with diagonal weave. They should be single breasted, with five buttons on front offset, six button cape, standing collar, body and sleeves lined with heavy cotton, jean or wool, single button strap on back and unfinished bottom.

Knapsack – M1855 double bag made of linen or cotton canvas painted black with boiled linseed oil base. These knapsacks are relatively small. One bag has four flaps with two buckles and the other bag is a one flap pocket with two ties. Greatcoat straps fit on top of the knapsack.