This is a copy of the manual I recieved with my boat. The staples were rusty.
The text is a close facsimile, the paragraph spacing is not.
Dotted line ---------- denotes a new page.

SAN JUAN 21
OWNERS MANUAL
INDEX

Congratulations on your purchase of the San Juan 21. Built by racing sailors the San Juan is of the same high quality as all Clark Boats. With a minimum of maintenance, your San Juan will provide years of sailing pleasure. This booklet is designed to give the new owner useful incormation about rigging and maintaining his new boat.
Don Clark, Designer
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1. TRAILER HOOK-UP
IMPORTANT: To prevent trailer damage to the hull, trailer boat only with normal sailing gear stowed inside to prevent excessive weight on the trailer bunk supports. When loading your San Juan 21, be sure all gear is stowed properly to avoid damage by shifting around.
A. TRAILER HITCH WEIGHT
The weight at the tongue of the trailer should be 100-125 lbs. for proper balance and steering. Major adjustments should not be necessary.
B. CHECKLIST BEFORE TRAILERING
1. Hook up to car

(a) Safety chains connected
(b) Lights connected and working
2. Bow snug in bow chock-winch line tight and locked
3. Weight of keel resting on trailer with keel lift wire slack
4. Proper stowage of gear
5. Main hatch and companionway closed
6. Mast secured with legal overhang
7. All rigging secured
8. Aft tie down secured
NOTE: (a) Trailer hitch ball is 1 7/8"
(b) Trailer tires inflated to 32 P.S.I.
(c) Keep trailer bearing lubricated
DRIVE CAREFULLY
A car pulling a boat trailer has its mobility, and its ability to avoid an accident, seriously reduce. The principles of defensive driving which are always important, become critical when you're pulling a boat trailer. Total weight of boat and trailer, normal gear, is 2,000 lbs.
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II. RIGGING AND LAUNCHING
Before launching, park on a level spot to rig your San Juan. Also check to see there are no overhead wires between you and the launch ramp. Clearance required after stepping the mast is approx. 34 feet.
A. STEPPING THE MAST
1. Remove from mast supports and walk it aft until you are able to match the mast step hinge to the deck plate. Pin in position with the mast resting on the rear support. Make sure mast hunge pin is cottered on both sides.
2. Check that all halyards are free and cleated.
3. Check that the backstay, upper and lower shrouds are connected to their chainplates and that the turnbuckles are lying aft of the chainplates. Normally these will be left connected for trailering.
4. One person "walks" the mast up from inside the cockpit as another pulls on the forestay from the foredeck. This operation can be done eliminating the second person. However, the jib or spinnaker halyard must be used as a temporary forestay until the person stepping the mast can move forward to secure the forestay. Watch carefully for fouled rigging and turnbuckles while walking up the mast.
5. After connecting forestay, tighten to same tension as backstay and tighten lock nuts.
6. Before each sailing it is recommended that the locknuts on turnbuckles be checked for tightness.
B. RIGGING THE BOOM
1. Gooseneck fitting slips into the mast groove.
2. Clip the boom holder from the backstay to the end of the boom.
3. Rig the mainsheet by starting with a bowline on the becket block running through the lower sheave on the fiddle block on the end of the boom then through the single block and back through the becket block and to the main cam.
4. Attach to boom vang with the shackle provided.
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C. LAUNCHING PROCEDURE
1. Winch keel up fully
2. Remove all tie downs
3. Attach bow line
4. Back down ramp until water level is just at top of wheel rims.
SET PARKING BRAKE
5. Slack bow winch and muscle assist launch if necessary
III. RIGGING FOR SAIL
A. LOWER THE KEEL AND PIN IN POSITION - Remember to remove lock bolt before lowering keel.
B. ATTACH TILLER TO RUDDER AND HANG RUDDER ON TRANSOM FITTINGS.
C. RIG SAILS
1. Working jib - shackle tack to bow tang. Then snap sail to forestay and attach halyard shackle to head of sail. Check to see that jib halyard is not fouled. Lead jib sheets through blocks on cabin top then through fairleeds to the cleats at rear of cabin top.
2. Genoa Jib - The genoa is rigged the same as the working jib, except the sheets are lead outside the shrouds to the genoa tracks along the cockpit sides.
3. Main - Slide the foot of the sail into the boom. Secure the tack at the gooseneck and connect the outhaul. The outhaul runs from aft hole in end of boom through clew grommet back through block in boom end and then to cleat. Start head feeding into mast groove then connect main halyard.
Insert battens. Be sure they are centered in the elastic and securely installed.
Sails are now ready for hoisting. When hoisting the main, hoist completely then cleat. When hoisting the jib, use the halyard block to obtain a purchase to get a good luff tension. The halyard block need not be unthreaded each time, just leave the loop wound in the block. ALWAYS HOIST SAILS WITH BOAT HEAD TO WIND.
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IMPORTANT NOTICE
Under sail the keel can be safely raised and pinned up th halfway. Never sail with the keel pin out or with the keel more than halfway up as there could be danger of swamping or capsize. See keel lowering mechanism inside front cover. As the San Juan 21 will not float when swamped be sure the keel is locked down and the companionway hatch is closed when sailing in winds over 20 mph.
IV. HAUL-OUT PROCEDURE
Basically the haul out is the same as the previous instructions in reverse. When hauling the boat on to the trailer care must be taken that the boat remains centered. Also remember to let the keel down to rest on the trailer before trailering. If the boat comes up onto the trailer with difficulty try wetting the bunks with water and dish washing liquid soup or back the trailer further into the water.
V. MAINTANANCE
A. MAST AND BOOM
The mast and boom of your San Juan 21 are anodized to give the aluminum protection from salt spray and natural elements. It is good to tie all halyards and shrouds away from the mast while trailering and mooring to prevent chafing the anodized finish. Wash with a water hose after sailing in salt water is a good practice. A clean mast and rigging helps keep sails clean so wipe road dirt etc, off before step- ping the mast.
B. RIGGING
Standing rigging should be inspected periodically for broken strands or loose bolts and clevis pins. Also check turnbuckle barrel locknuts for tightness. Keep the spreader tips well taped to prevent damage to the sails.
Running rigging may become stiff with dirt and salt water after use. This can be remedied by washing in light detergent or flushing with a garden hose.
Always tie a figure eight knot in the ends of the sheets to prevent them from coming out of the blocks or fairleads.
C. FITTINGS
All fittings are stainless steel, aluminum or plastic. All good quality stainless has a slight amount of carbon steel in the alloy, therefore, you may notice a slight rust film occasionally. This will clean up with soap and water and occasionally a mild abrasive soap such as ajax or comet can be employed. A good boat wash after salt water sailing will help keep your fitting looking like new. Oxalic acid, purchased at a pharmacy and diluted in water makes a good teak stripper and will remove rust stains but be careful, wear gloves and flush very thoroughly with fresh water.
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D. KEEL MECHANISM
Periodically inspect the keel wire for wear or broken strands. Replace at the first sign of any damage. Always replace with stainless steel 5/32" 7 x 19 flexible cable. The replacement can be carried out easily with the boat on the trailer or at moorage. The mast post and keel brace inside the cabin is anodized aluminum and should need little care. Check the sheave periodically to see that it turns freely under load. Remember while sailing keep the load off the keel wire and winch and keep the keel pin inserted.
E. FIBERGLASS SURFACES
Although your San Juan fiberglass surfaces are maintenance free a little care is needed to keep the boat in like new condition. Fre- quent washings with soap and water will keep abrasive dirt and salt off the hull and deck (which helps also to keep sails clean). A good paste wax applied at least twice a year will preserve the gloss and help prevent oxidation. Remeber strong detergents and abrasive clean- ers remove wax so be sure to re-wax after their use.
F. TEAKWOOD CARE
Many sailors prefer to leave their teakwood 'bleach' and thus do nothing for maintenance. To preserve the oiled finish however, it is necessary to re-oil the teak with a good teak oil such as Watco ot Tung oil whenever it becomes noticabley weathered.
G. CUSHIONS
The cushions are vinyl and may be cleaned with soap and water. Care must be taken to prevent mildew by turning cushions upright when leaving the boat. When boat is out of use for a longer period of time, remove the cushions and store in a dry place.
H. SAILS
Always remove the battens, fold, bag and store sails in a dry location. Never fold wet sails but wait until dry to prevent any pos- sible mildew. Dacron sails can be rinsed free of salt with fresh water, lay then on the grass and rinse with water hose. Never iron sails to remove the wrinkles.
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VI. MAST TUNE AND SAILING HINTS
A. MAST RAKE
1. Adjust forestay so that mast has approx. 6-8" of aft rake. This may be accomplished either on he trailer or in calm water with the keel down. In either case suspend a weight from the main halyard.
(a) In water: Lower keel and keep body weight close to hatch opening when measuring.
2. Make pencil marks on the boom 6" and 8" aft of the aft face of the mast.
3. Adjust forestay until main halyard hangs between these pencil marks.
4. Snug up backstay and check mast to ensure that you have not over tightened the backstay and "hooked" the mast.
5. Lock forestay and backstay turnbuckles up tight.
B. SHROUD TENSION
1. Adjust long upper shrouds so that turnbuckles are equally extended and tension is just snug.
2. Adjust lower shrouds so that there is slightly more tension than on the upper shrouds and the mast stands straight with no curv- ature to either side.
3. Slack off upper shroud turnbuckles 1/2 turn of the turnbuckle barrel.
4. Lock up all 4 shroud turnbuckles.
C. SAILING ADJUSTMENTS
1. Keel must be fully down for these tests.
2. Take the boat out in a moderate wind with the headsail you will be using the most.
3. Sailing to windward with a moderate amount of heel and with main and jib sheeted fairly well snug there should be the slightest tendency for the boat to head up to windward.
4. If so; your boat may be considered properly tuned and will require either no or only minor adjustments.
5. If you experience more than slight weather helm
(a) Make certain main is not pulled in too tight
(b) Try moving jib or genoa leads forward.
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(c) Try tightening outhaul, downhaul and/or cunningham adjustments on the main.
(d) You may be trying to sail in too much wind with the genoa.
(e) Crew weight may not be properly distributed.
(f) Rake mast forward more.
6. If you experiance slight lee helm or neutral helm
(a) Before you panic: The San Juan 21 was designed to sail with the jib in light winds with no or little heel with NEUTRAL or slight lee helm with the addition of the genoa and a little heel the boat should have a slight weather helm.
7. If you experience excessive lee helm
(a) Make certian main is not too loose
(b) Try moving jib or genoa leads aft
(c) Try slacking-outhaul, downhaul and/or cunningham ad- justments on the main.
(d) Crew weight may not be properly distributed.
(e) Rake mast aft more.
GOOD SAILING
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KEEL LOWERING MECHANISM
1. Note the 3 bolts A, B, and C in the sketch below.
a. Bolt A is keel pin, it should not require maintenance and is covered with fiberglass to prevent leakage.
b. Bolt B is lower stop-it should not be removed unless it is bent in which case it should be replaced.
c. Bolt C is removable locking pin. It must be removed to lower the keel. The keel has 2 locking positions-full down and half down. When the keel is in either of these positions take the strain off the keel lifting wire to preserve the wire. The keel cannot be lowered without first removing this bolt.
2. To gain access to the keel simply remove the 4 screws in top access plate and remove the plate. This will expose the lifting mechanism. Replacing the wire is a simple affair and should be done at the first sign of wear. Inspect the block at this time for wear, replace the block if necessary.
IMPORTANT: WHEN RAISING OR LOWERING KEEL DO NOT LET GO OF THE HANDLE. BE AWARE THAT A FREELY SPINNING HANDLE MAY CAUSE SEVERE BODILY INJURY.


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