Saturday, 16th. Oct, '99.
Auckland, New Zealand.

Islands sparkling in the early morning sun. Lush, green, pastoral Auckland. One of the few places visitors are actually greeted at the International airport with tea or coffee. Onto a shuttle bus with four "Visiting the colonies" from the UK, and two fellas from Sydney with an eight-hour stopover. Clear blue sky, fresh, cool morning air.

Hyatt Regency,
Auckland, New Zealand.

Nice to arrive at the hotel, with the spacious lobby as I remember it. Duncan, the previous manager has now been replaced, there is a different florist and a few other changes as well. Up to my lovely room #612, and it looks so welcoming and familiar with the blue sky, water and sails out the window - it feels like coming home !

The bottle of Baileys has leaked in my bag. Horrors - most of it IN my folded umbrella. Business cards, letters, matchboxes and notes awash and a soggy mess, as is my Paddynet name tag. Sort through everything and salvage what I can. Do some handwashing and time to sit down and study my itinery.

There are people I hope to catch up with here, and although this Hyatt also has in-room 'Guest Net' facilities, I know it restricts searches and prevents uploading. So downstairs in the business centre I check mail and even catch up with Charlene via Messenger, which is a nice suprise.

I still have the previous iHug connection on my laptop, so ring to activate it once again. Ihug are even more innovative than I expected - they have one dial-in number from anywhere in New Zealand, treated as a local call. This will allow me access from the Bay of Islands too, if I'm not too busy enjoying myself.

The itimised itinery Ann provided me shows I need to be downtown, rather than collected from the hotel. Blast. And what's this ? I return at 9.30pm the night before I'm meant to leave ? No way - that won't allow me to actually catch up with anyone - least of all visit the 'whaling wall'.

So - on the phone, alter my flight with Qantas, and eventually leave a message for Horizon Travel asking re-confirmation of arrangements. Being Saturday (I forgot) many places are not open, so stop gazing out the window and check out the shop !

Sunday, 17th. Oct, '99.

An early start to catch the bus downtown to start my three-day, two night tour of the Bay of Islands. Only 25 on this coach, and Hamish is our talkative driver full of facts and figures, local gossip and history lessons with a local flavour.

We fly over the Auckland bridge on a bright, clear morning too early for traffic and see all the boats moored off Takapuna for America's Cup 2000, and the first heat of the Louis Vuitton Cup challenge takes place tomorrow.

Drive up the Hibiscus Coast - through suburbs opening to wide green hilly areas, and my first impression is of how much erosion there is, and areas of land slide due to total deforestation. Rows and rows of terraced ridges from years of grazing stock. Then large expanses of natural forest - shorter, and denser than Australian bush - the native plants seem to have greyer, waxier leaves, probably salt-tolerant, and certainly more compact.

Hamish tells us all about the Kauri and we even stop to photograph two specimens. Stop also for morning tea at Kaiwaka. The air is fresh and clean, with plenty of birds.

Our first stop after dropping off people at the bus terminal is the Waitangi National Reserve, and our tour guide Kami explains how important this area is to New Zealanders. It was here the countries first flag was chosen and in 1840 the Treaty of Waitangi was signed.

The original house still stands, the only surviving colonial building prefabricated in Australia in 1833 and shipped to New Zealand. Also on the lovely grassy grounds the (Maori) meeting house - Whare Runanga, with elaborate carvings and intricate woven panels. Overall a very strong impression of dignity.

At one edge of the bay we also visited the impressive war canoe - Ngatokimatawhaorua, whole thirty five metres of it ! The paddles for the eighty rowers hung inside ready for use.

This was an excellent presentation - the detailed explanations and entire setting. No wonder this is an award-winning tourism site, while the National Reserve itself provided walkways along the lava rock coastline, through the native bush, mangrove forest, with audio-visuals thoughout the Visitors Centre.

Back on the bus, and we drop off another four passengers for dolphin/whale watching, and back to the wharf, where another group leave for the rest of their day trip. Next stop we drop off four at one of the hotels - leaving me, all by myself, the only one staying along the coast road.

Autolodge Paihia,
Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

I'm so unhappy - what happened here, Ann ? I'm so sick of travelling by myself, and this part was meant to be with a group of people. Didn't I pay for a 'group tour' ? The telephone connections are also different, and being Sunday no chance to locate an adaptor, so I sit in my room with the sliding doors open to the balcony and sulk. Do some hand washing and read.

Come mealtime I don't fancy sitting alone by myself again, so I walk down the street to check out the Internet Cafe the receptioniste tells me is probably closed, being 7pm.

No ! 'Boots-Off' is open - and Sam will be there another two hours yet, and points me in the direction of the arcade opposite, convinced I'll find something there I like.

So I choose The Vienna Inn, and head upstairs - to sit alone at a little table in the corner anyway. Am I having fun yet ? No. The whole reason for this 'tour' was to be with others, to share stuff with, even discuss a menu. I am so disappointed as I could have hired a car and driven up here by myself if that's what I'd wanted. What is the age limit for having an imaginery friend, anyway ?

The group of four from the UK at the next table are all happily swapping stories, and even though the 'Jagerschnitzel' was enjoyable and the glass of wine nice, I dash off as soon as I've eaten to catch Sam.

GeoCities refuses to connect to my car pages from any address, and I really wanted to contact Alan while I'm here, as I don't remember where he is ! I'd already made the mistake of notifying Ian my GeoTropics web-ring master suggesting we 'meet up again' to have it pointed out to me he's now in Wellington, the other end of this North Island. Oh dear. Yet ICQ is available, so I waste ten minutes or so then wander back to the hotel.

How about I try the bar ? Yes, I feel I could handle a crush of bodies and raucaus strangers. Instead, it's really an extension of the dining room, with tables and chairs - and I dread having to sit by myself again. Suprise ! The four people from the restaurant are here - and inviting me to join them for a drink - I was so grateful I wanted to hug them !

So the next twenty minutes or so where spent in very pleasant company. I shall sleep in tomorrow.

Monday, 18th. Oct, '99.

Awoken by a coach starting up outside my window - and it's only 6.45, so back under the covers for me as my itinery shows 'Day of leisure' today. There was a short, sharp, tropical downpour earlier, and now the bay is sparkling. Plenty of birds around, this really is an idyllic place and I envy those who live here.

Wander back to the Cyber cafe where Mic directs me to the electrical store for an adapter plug. I call back in anyway, deal with mail and catch up with Dilla and Yrrek on ICQ. Dilla has exams next week so with working this final week, won't be able to meet me this time either, pity.

GeoCities is still down so unable to upload anything. At least now I can try later, from my room.

Off to the dining room later, and chef Lindsay McAlpine's suggested wine to complement Hapuka is Montana Chardonnay '99 from Gisborne - Chardonnay capital of New Zealand.

Hot herb bread rolls. Grilled, the hapuka (grouper) is served with a mornay sauce, leeks, asparagas, honeyed sesame carrots and savoury duchesse potatoes. All attractively presented and followed by a thoroughly enjoyable 'pudding' - Kahlua and Baileys cheesecake with a lovely moist biscuit base. There is fresh cream, strawberries and grape sections garnished with a mint-life leaf I don't recognise (angelica) and sprinkled around the orange slices on the edge of the plate - green coconut.

A delicious, well-presented meal. Wonderful panoramic views, pleasant background music, friendly staff proud and knowledgable of the area - all in all a very enjoyable meal and a pleasant end to the day.

Chatting with the couple from New Hampshire at the next table, they have driven up from Hastings today, and loved everything they saw. Perhaps another time I'll return, and spend longer. Hire a car perhaps, and travel around myself.

Tuesday, 19th. October, '99.

Am I dreaming, or is that jasmine I smell ? So I cancel my wake-up call. It's such a beautiful, clear day - perfect for a day of 'island-hopping'.

Fullers "Bay of Islands" tour departs the jetty at 9am, and we cruise past Motuarohia, Moturua, Motukiele and Waewaetorea until we arrive at Motukohaho (hole-in-the-rock) Island past The Twins and Cape Brett. And yes - we sailed through - pretty amazing, and great views all round.

Captain James Cook wrote in his journal - "A small high island or rock with a hole pierced quite through it, like the arch of a bridge" November 27th, 1769.

Back to Urupukapuka where we had a lunch stop, and I went on the 'Yellow Submarine' first, to see below the water as they fed the fish.

Then back on board as the whistle blew and off to Russell, New Zealand's first European settlement and the original capital, made infamous during the whaling period around the 1830's.

Such a pretty place ! I went on the Russell mini-tour with Vima, around all the quaint, picturesque homes, hotels and cottages. We drove up to Flagstaff Hill with panoramic views of the entire area. Calm, clear water, clear blue sky and warm sun, wooded peaks of mainland, islands, pleasure craft, big-game boats heading out to sea. Yes, I'd love to live here.

Hyatt Regency,
Auckland, New Zealand.

Wednesday, 20th. October, '99.

America's Cup Village, whaling wall...

Thursday, 21st. October, '99.

Last stop - home.

How far is it ? - 1625 miles (2615 km)

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