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A Glimpse of My Home
by Preety Sengupta
On the map of India, the first noticeable thing about Gujarat is its
shape. To me, it suggests two hands joined in greetings.
The length of its sea-coast stands out, which flaunts some nice beaches
like Udwada, Tithal, Dummas, and Diu with its Portuguese-infected atmosphere.
Chorwad is popular too, but the Arabian Sea there gets wild with energetic
waves crashing ruthlessly on huge dark boulders on the shore. Once I
was there wearing a red scarf around my neck, and the waves really got
higher, and mightier, as if they wanted to wash me away. A local man
standing nearby pointed out that the red colour of the scarf was inciting
the ocean. A Bullish Force infused with Beauty, a show of Might mingled
with Magnificence - it was scary and fascinating.
Just 15 miles from Chorwad is the temple of Somnath, a very sacred
shrine of Lord Shiva. According to myth, Somnath is as old as creation,
manifested by Soma, the Moon God himself. It was destroyed by Mehmud
of Gazni seventeen times in the 11th century. The present edifice may
be about 40 years old. Here the water is inviting, but is not without
an undertow. An arrow points to the direction of the South Pole, and
attests that there is no land between that spot and the pole.
Then I must mention Patan, in Northern Gujarat, whose fame rests on
the practice of Patola-weaving, an art in which the warp and the weft
of the silk yarn are first tied and dyed in the desired traditional
designs before mounting them on the loom. I remember my visit to the
workshop of Chhotubhai, a few years ago, and watching him pass the shuttle-cock
back and forth , a thread at a time, to let the pattern emerge. Each
saree takes from six months to a year to complete, and by now costs
way over a lakh of Rupees. The saree I commissioned, before the price
increased so extravagantly, is truly priceless to me because it was
created by the Master Weaver himself.
Just outside the town is a step-well called “Rani ki Vav”. Carved
out in late 15th century to provide livelihood to the people and to
offer a cool place of rest to travellers, it was discovered only recently,
and is now a National Monument. The beauty of this Vav is extraordinary.
Its stone walls and many pillars are intricately ornamented, and the
fine lattice-work, as well as the details on the stone figures, will
leave any visitor totally amazed and moved to the core.
About twenty miles south is Modhera, the site of an exquisite 11th
century Sun Temple. Also etched out of stone, every inch of its outside
and inside is filled with detailed carvings of figures and flowers,
geometric patterns and fanciful designs. The State Government has started
organizing a free, three-night, Dance Festival there every January,
when well-known dance groups from across the country are invited. The
Temple is flood-lit, and hundreds of shimmering oil lamps are placed
on the long layered steps of a vast, old-time water reservoir.
While Gujarat’s only hill-station is Saputara with a modest altitude
of slightly over 3,000 feet, there are several hill-tops that carry
a lot of significance because of Living Temples on their peaks. Pavagadh
used to be a fortress once, now in ruins, but still housing temples
of Mother Goddess Kali. When I was there the last time, I was delighted
to find a newly-created rope-way which made the climbing fast - after
one has lined up for it, of course! Another hill-temple is Palitana,
near the tree-lined city of Bhavnagar. It is one of the most important
Jain sites, and is made of a large group of magnificent marble structures
that were built over a span of a thousand years. The well-paved road
makes for a comparatively easy hike, and is rewarding even for itself.
Nestled in the foot-hills of Girnar, a five-peak hill adorned with
important Jain temples, is the city of Junagadh which has relics from
the era of Emperor Ashok, and rock-inscriptions in Pali and Brahmi dating
back to 250 B.C. Closer in time, from 16th century, is the poet saint
of Gujarat Narsinh Mehta, whose references are found all over the city,
and whose faith-filled lyrics permeate Gujaratis the world over till
today.
The remote-looking, Western-most part of Gujarat is Kutchchh, which
has a little of every thing : a desert that is green; a desert that
is sandy and arid; a sanctuary for an unusual animal called “Ghudkhar”,
breeding grounds for birds like Flamingo, Pelican and Avocet; a vast
area with exposed salt deposits; and at Dholavira, an archeological
site that may be even older than Mohen jo Dero. As if this is not enough,
the people of Kutchchh are a special breed - sturdy, good-looking, and
extremely artistic. The bazaars of Bhuj are filled with their embroidery,
printed and tie-die fabric, silver work, wood carvings, and many other
handicrafts. It remains almost the most favourite region of mine in
Gujarat, and I often miss the kind, talented people I met there.
And yet, my heart is always filled with thoughts of Amdavad, my home-town.
Established in 1411 by Ahmedshah Badshah, it is full of embellishments
in the Mughal style of architecture. To recall some, there is the stunning
Jumma Masjid with its 260 pillars and 15 domes; the stepped water-tank
at Sarkhej with its elegant pavilions; the 15th century Kankaria Lake
with a one-time palace in its midst, and the Sidi Saiyad Mosque whose
intricately carved stone window has been the insignia of the city; and
is frequently copied in silver to be given out as trophies.
The most significant mention, for me, would be that of Gandhi Ashram,
where the Mahatma set up a simple retreat in 1915. It was the very pulse
of the nation during the Freedom movement. The ascetic cottage where
he lived is a museum and a National Monument. At nights there is a Sound
and Light presentation, which is very effective, and not to be missed.
A short stretch of the original “Dandi March” which Gandhiji started
to protest against the Salt Tax, is still there. To me, the Idealism
and the Patriotism is palpable in the area surrounding this sanctuary.
Memories remain kindled for ever, while no space is ever enough to
extol all the Beloved Places. I hope that the unattended rivers, lakes,
forests, and towns will still consider me their own. Always.
Preety Sengupta is an award winning poet and a writer with 21 books
in Gujarati and three in English.
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