QUESTIONS ANSWERED

BITS
Saturday, 25-Mar-2000 22:19:28
Once again, as a hunter judge, what kind of a bit would you like to see Green Hunters going in? My horse goes very nicely in a rubber jointed pelham with double reins. I can't have him in a snaffle because he tends to lean on the bit and this one backs him off a little bit. Would we be penalized for this? Thanks
Kelly

Re: BITS
Saturday, 25-Mar-2000 22:59:37
A short shanked pelham is just fine. I showed a successful hunter in one myself. There is nothing wrong with it. There are many choices which are within the range of 'acceptible' hunter bits. Use the one which works best for you. Once again, it is the horse's performance which is being judged.
Sandy

Saturday, 01-Apr-2000 07:12:15
Re Re: BITS
My pony always pulls and jerks me. I've tried all the bits you said to. What should I do?
Emily

Re Re Re: BITS
Saturday, 01-Apr-2000 13:11:56
Hi Emily,
A bit is only as effective as the rider using it. You must ride with a trainer you respect and who you will learn from. One of the reasons riding is so much fun is the challenge it presents. Just when you think you’ve solved one problem, your pony raises another question. Remember that you cannot teach your pony to lighten or stop pulling with hands alone. When he pulls on you, the last thing you want to do is to get into a tug of war. After all, he outweighs you by a bunch. The advantage we have over our mounts is our intelligence, rather than our strength. We must out think our horse or pony, not wrestle with him. On the flat, begin by doing lots of transitions. Walk to halt, walk to posting trot, back to sitting trot, walk then canter to walk, halt, etc. The trick is to use your legs in downward transitions, as well as upward ones. You must teach your pony to use the hind legs. When he pulls on your hands, resist the urge to take your leg off. Continue to ride him forward from your legs and close your hands, resisting. The moment you feel any softening on your pony’s part, you must instantly reward that by relaxing the pressure of your hands and legs. If he begins to pull again, start from the beginning, incorporating lots of transitions. Your goal is to help your pony learn balance. By using your leg in the downward transitions, you are telling him to stay active behind. The rider who does not understand the need to do this will soon find that his or her pony is carrying most of his weight on the forehand. When that rider asks for a downward transition, his pony will not feel balanced enough to lighten his front end and will consequently ‘lean’ on the rider’s hands. Teach this pony to activate the back end and come forward from behind, so that the rear legs are doing their share of the work and the pony can come back to the rider in ‘balance.’ It will be best to work your pony in an enclosed ring or arena until he learns to accept and listen to your aids.
Sandy

BITS
Saturday, 01-Apr-2000 13:53:51
Hi Sandy! You sound like a great horse judge and a very caring person. What I would like to know is how to soften my 18 year old arabian mare mouth. I have read many articles on how to soften the mouth and they do not help much. For Western I ride her with a curb and she throws her head and does not take to the bit much. For a while she gives in but then up with the head. I have also had her checked and her teeth and everything were fine. When I have the curb chain on (even loosely) She throws her head so high. I don't even have to touch the reins because she knows what whoa means. For english I use a Pelham bit(I have no chain on it) and she takes to it better but as with the western bit she also opens and chews on the bit. If i leave her in her stall for an hour each couple of days will that help? She does produce saliva though with her pelham bit. Also can I show english with a pelham? (just open showing) Thanks for the help. She has wonderful gaits and i know she is capable of having a headset. Thanks again.
Cassie

Re: BITS
Saturday, 01-Apr-2000 15:44:53
Hi Cassie,
I’m not a Western aficionado, so I think you’d do better to make your Western riding inquiries of an expert in that discipline. A pelham is a perfectly acceptable bit in Hunter Classes. I much prefer a short shanked one, such as the Tom Thumb variety. If your horse has no soundness problems and her teeth are in good shape, I’d next examine the fit of your saddle. That can often be the cause of a horse inverting in the head and neck. Be sure there is ample room in the pommel area and that the saddle is not pinching her anywhere, both when you are on the ground and when mounted.
Rather than leaving her in the stall wearing her bridle, I'd suggest longing her both with and without your saddle on her back. See if there is any difference in her behavior. She will be dealing with less weight on her back when you are on the ground, but doing this might help to isolate the problem. If you have someone competent to do so, ask them to longe her with you mounted, first with the ground person controlling your mare and then with your handling the reins. This test might give you more information and help to evaluate whether your mare's evasions are tack related or might be correctable through lessons with a good trainer. Good luck. Do keep us posted.
Sandy

POINTS TO LOOK FOR WHEN JUDGING SHOW-JUMPING
Wednesday, 05-Apr-2000 07:56:16
Hi Sandy,
Just discovered yr site and i'm enjoying it.
I've volunteered to assist a judge in a coming competition and would be glad if you can tell me some important points to look out when judging.Thanks
maychooi

Re: POINTS TO LOOK FOR WHEN JUDGING SHOW-JUMPING
Wednesday, 05-Apr-2000 14:32:52
Hi,
Show jumping is judged by very specific rules and tables, set forth in our AHSA Rule book. You can peruse the Rules pertaining to Show Jumping in the Jumper section of the book at: http://www.ahsa.org/rulebook2000/. You want to acquaint yourself with the Jumper rules and various tables. Some jumper classes are judged under tables which count faults for touching the jumps, such as a half fault for a fence touched with any part of the horse behind the stifle and one fault for hitting the fence with the front legs. In other tables, such as Table II, touches are not taken into account, placing the emphasis on knockdowns only. I would suggest discussing your job description with the official you will be assisting and getting a clear understanding of what will be expected of you at the show. If you will be involved in Hunter or Hunt Seat Equitation classes in addition to Show Jumping, you can find a full description of the requirements for those classes in their respective sections of the rule book, as well. Good luck to you.
Sandy

JUDGE'S LICENSE
Saturday, 25-Mar-2000 11:12:01
How can obtain an application for a Florida hunter-jumper-equitation judging licensure?
Judy Iby

Re: JUDGE'S LICENSE
Saturday, 25-Mar-2000 15:57:17
Hi Judy,
I don't know how you would obtain a judging license, for only the state of Florida. Try this site http://www.delmarfair.com/. 'Hopefully, they can help you. Should you decide to work toward getting licensed by the American Horse Shows Association, which would enable you to judge in all of the states in the USA, you can go the www.ahsa.org/ or call the AHSA office in KY at: 212-972-2472. Ask for the Licensed Officials Department. Good luck to you.
Sandy

JUDGING A BEGINNER EQ. DIVISION
Friday, 17-Mar-2000 08:14:18
Sandy, Hi! I enjoy your website very much - very informative and helpful. It's great what you are doing. What stands out or what do you look for in judging a beginner eq class? Jean

Re: JUDGING A BEGINNER EQ. DIVISION
Friday, 17-Mar-2000 20:23:37
Thank you, Jean! I’m happy to hear you are enjoying this site.
Judging beginners is not very different from judging equitation in any division. One thing holds true in all classes and that is we must judge horsemanship in comparison to those available to be judged in any class. The same is true in beginner equitation.
Sometimes, a short stirrup class looks more like the flat phase of the Maclay, and I wonder if I have the correct class on my card and at other times, the contestants are fortunate to stay on the up side of their ponies. When presented with a more ‘gifted’ group of riders, my criteria must adjust and it will take more to win the blue ribbon. Everything is relative when judging with the winner of one class, sometimes, the best of the worst.
In general, beginner equitators should have basic control of their mount, looking where they are going and demonstrating some general knowledge of the basics. I want to see depressed heels, eyes up and ahead and basic control of steering. What I most like to see, is a rider who is considerate of his or her mount, with an elementary command of the proper use of the aids. In other words, ‘squeeze’ not ‘kick,’ asking rather than demanding or bullying their pony. A good attitude is not only important in the purchase of a beginner pony, it is important for the rider to learn early on, as well.
Sandy

SUITABILITY/JUDGING
Monday, 17-Apr-2000 18:33:53
Sandy-
I am a beginner judge, and would like your opinion about a situation at a small show I judged yesterday. The pony division had five entries. Four of them were quite nice ponies. The fifth was a small pony, who a local trainer has recently sold to one of her short stirrup riders. This pony is quite fancy, a good mover, pretty keen and a little spooky to the jumps, but jumps well. The short stirrup rider who bought the pony is way over mounted, and she cannot get the pony around eight x's. Because of this, the trainer had her own daughter show the pony in the hunters. The child is HUGE on this pony, and rides really well. I don't mean a little large, the pony is a small, and she rides horses. Her feet were almost hitting the jumps. I put her last in all three classes. Afterwards, the trainer(her Mom) approached me and wanted to know what I hadn't liked. She said,"This division is judged on the pony, it shouldn't matter how big she is." I told her that she was correct, it is judged on the pony and a nice pony should be able to do his job with the appropriate size rider. I would personally pin an honest, plain pony that packed a small child faithfully, than a fancy, hot one that needs almost a professional ride. Sorry this is so long Sandy, but I would like to know how you feel about this. While I agreed that her daughter needs to get on this pony occasionally to give him a good ride, it can be done at home or during the schooling break. What do you think? By the way, the other ponies were quite nice and had good trips. I didn't put her behind horrible trips.... Thanks in advance for your help.
Dana

Re: SUITABILITY/JUDGING
Tuesday, 18-Apr-2000 19:15:25
Hi Dana,
I think you did your job well. Our AHSA Rule Book states, "Suitability of a pony for a rider is determined by height and weight of the rider as related to the size of the pony. Judges must penalize but not necessarily eliminate an entry not having such manners and suitability".
The pony division specifies that ‘suitability’ is to count. The way it is worded, that leaves a great deal to the official’s discretion. That is the way it should be. Those horsemen and women who have proven themselves worthy of a Judging license are being paid for their ‘educated’ opinion. All too often, exhibitors forget that. No one can make universally approved decisions when judging. Don’t be afraid to use your own opinion. We must be very aware of the rules and abide by them, but when a rule is written in such a way as to encourage the judge to contribute his or her opinion, then, I feel, that is what we are being asked to do.
Some judges place almost no emphasis on size, where others all but eliminate a slightly large child on a pony. The situation you describe in your question leads me to believe I would have done the same thing as you.
In Article 2601. General of the AHSA Rule Book, it states: 1. "No junior over 12 years of age may ride in a Regular Small Pony Hunter Section. No junior over 14 years of age may ride in a Regular Medium Pony Hunter Section. Riders under 18 years of age may ride for other exhibitors who have more than one entry in the Under Saddle class and/or exhibit the pony in the model class".
The rider in question may have broken this rule if she is over 12 years of age, which she may well be, if riding a horse. You have no way of knowing that and at a small, unrecognized show, this rule may not even be enforced, however, if the rider is so large as to greatly detract from the picture, you are certainly acting within your job description penalizing the pair accordingly. Good luck with your judging. Don't hesitate to call on me whenever I can help. I'll be happy to.
Sandy

Re: Re: SUITABLITY/JUDGING
Tuesday, 18-Apr-2000 19:53:39
140.186.115.62 writes:
Thanks for your help, and easing my mind that I had done the right thing. At the time I didn't think twice about it, it wasn't until she approached me that I began to have my doubts. I tried to explain to the trainer-Mom that I WAS judging the pony, and in my opinion the fact that he needs such a grown-up, experienced ride is a direct reflection on him. I guess it's a matter of priorities, fancy vs. honest and useful. I don't personally believe that fancy IS always the most important thing.. especially at the level of showing that I am judging at. Very local...
Dana

SHOWING
VARIETY OF QUESTIONS
Sunday, 23-Apr-2000 20:28:21
Hi Sandy,
Since spring is coming, and therefore more riding, I've come up with a few questions. I'd appreciate any input. First, I'm interested in buying a new saddle. I've never bought a new one, so I was wondering what the best methods of getting one are. Like is buying from a catoloug better? And how does the whole "test ride saddle" deal work? Second, approximatly what is one stride in a jump line equal to? Like how would I measure a one stride obstacle? Thanks for your help in advance!
P.S. My horse, Dutch, is doing so much better with jumping now. When I first got him last year, he kept refusing, but a couple weeks ago (when we hadn't really been doing much work), I decided to start with jumping again and he jumped so willingly. Like he was bored and decided this was something new that he liked. It's great! lol And always, thanks, this is such a great board!
Cathy

SHOWING: Sunday, 23-Apr-2000 07:32:51
hello,iam a hunter rider and i was wondering the most important things for showing.see i just got a pony and he is very green and iam going to start showing him but before i do i wanted to know some of the important things for showing so i could work on those things.thanks for answering my question.
lauren and Preppi
ps preppi is my pony

WILL THIS HORSE BE TOO BIG?
Thursday, 23-Mar-2000 08:33:46
Hi Sandy
I am looking at a horse to buy for hunters. He is expensive so I am trying to look into it thoroughly. He is a nice boy, quiet, steady and moves well. We get along well. But he is also 17.1 hands, with a warmblood body. Is he going to be too big in the hunter ring? What sort of problems can I anticipate? Some people tell me that he'll be marked down by the judge as soon as he walks into the ring - is that true? Will there be any bias against us?
Thanks for your help.
Melissa

Re: WILL THIS HORSE BE TOO BIG?
Thursday, 23-Mar-2000 20:15:23
Absolutely not, Melissa! Unless you are tiny or he is big in a course way and incapable of coping with his own size, a 17.1hand horse is a nice size for a hunter.
Sandy

CAN I JUMP MY HORSE HIGHER?
Tuesday, 21-Mar-2000 09:58:36
Dear Sandy,
Two years ago my 15.2hand Paint/QH was diagnosed with perpera (I don't know how to spell it). I have jumped him over fences up to 3'6". He looks like he could easily jump higher, and I've seen him jump a 5'fence(on accident). Do you think that he could jump higher and not hurt his legs? Thank you for your help!
Sincerely,
Charismatic7

Re: CAN I JUMP MY HORSE HIGHER?
Tuesday, 21-Mar-2000 10:57:37
Charismatic,
'Sound's like your little Paint has a big heart, however, yours is a question for a veterinarian. I'm not qualified to venture a guess on your horse's condition. Good luck with him.
Sa HUNTER PLEASURE CLASSES
Friday, 07-Apr-2000 22:56:10
I'll be entering a hunter pleasure division (2 flat classes) for the first time next weekend at a locally rated A show (it has good competition, ribbons, etc. but has a more relaxed atmosphere than an AHSA rated show). I'm not really sure what is expected though! The rulebook doesn't say much. Just w/t/c with light contact. And it's judged on manners, preformance, quality, presence, substance, and soundness. Open to riders of any status and for horses normally used for pleasure purposes.
So I'm assuming I won't have to back up, but that's not a big concern of mine. I'd like to know what a judge is looking for and what I should be doing as the rider to make my horse the most appealing. Also, what "frame" should my horse be in? It seems like the nose stuck out is undesirable and judges want the more engaged horse (which Jeff has to be anyway since he's so bouncy and wide!). My instructor will probably have to help me choose the best pace - working I'd assume. Oh should I canter in 3-point and will I have to sit the trot?
Lots of questions ;-) Jeff's a 15.3hh Paint/WB cross, 8 years old, very even tempered, chestnut with chrome (handsome horse), I think he's got a big stride, he's got a lot of "bounce" in his step but I've been doing well sitting to his gaits. He's a bit lazy about getting round/on the bit but once he's warmed up he's "there" until you're done :)
Thanks!!
Pam

Re: HUNTER PLEASURE CLASSES
Saturday, 08-Apr-2000 15:41:20
Hi Pam,
Backing is frequently called for in ‘Pleasure’ classes, so I don’t advise assuming it won’t be. Pleasure divisions are generally based primarily on good manners, quality and length of movement, soundness and style. Light contact is requested, which does not mean "no" contact. It means just what it says, ‘light’ contact or in other words, a soft contact with the horse’s mouth. The pleasure mount is expected to travel at a relaxed, but not ‘dead’ pace. The pleasure horse should accept the bit without appearing ‘programmed’ or overly flexed. The canter should be demonstrated in a sitting position, which is slightly in front of the vertical. A light two point, just slightly forward, is generally accepted, as well. Good luck and don’t forget to come back with a report of how things went at the show.
Sandy

Re: CONTACT AND BACKING
Monday, 10-Apr-2000 13:40:35
Hello Pam,
‘Sorry I didn’t respond over the weekend. Yesterday was the M.S. Walk for a Cure and I was immersed in that for the weekend. Well, in spite of all, gale force wind and snow we have exceeded last year's total, thanks to all of you who gave of your time and financial aid. Have you seen the updated MS Walk link on my home page? http://geocities.datacellar.net/Heartland/Meadows/7078/. Just scroll down to the bit for the link to the Pepperhill MS Walk Team.
Our team earned $11,425.00 this year with more still coming in. Check out how many $100. Club members are highlighted on the MS Walk Page on my URL.
Those are people and companies who donated $100. or more this year. AWESOME! The deadline for contributions to be included in this year's Walk is not till May 29th, so if you can think of any big hearted friends who'd like to be a part of the research for a cure for M.S., please have checks made out to the National M.S. Society and sent to me at 145 Mercer Rd., Colts Neck, NJ 07722. Donations of any amount are greatly appreciated.
Riding in the higher levels of Equitation, I would expect to see a straight line from the rider’s elbow to the bit in the horse’s mouth. There should be no slack in the reins. This level of rider is expected to be capable of communicating with the horse without danger of inadvertently hitting their mount’s mouth. They should be in control of their own balance and stability of position, rather than having to depend on the reins as a source of balance.
In a pleasure class, where ‘light’ contact with the horse’s mouth is requested, there will be a slight curve or slack in the reins, however, reins should never be so long as to negate control. You should keep the rein length short enough to permit communication with your horse.
When asking him to back, shortening the rein a bit is quite permissible. Shortening them to a length which is too confining, is not.
Regarding the choice of bit, you may want to discuss that with your trainer. Perhaps switching to a plain snaffle, rather than the rubber one would give you some aid for backing. You are correct in riding him forward into a resisting hand, using leg. Keep your upper body tall while closing your fists tightly around the reins. Use leg, increasing the pressure if needed to complete the back up.
Be sure to give with your hands as soon as he cooperates and takes a step backward. After taking 3 to 5 steps back, on a straight line, tactfully ask your mount to move forward, returning to his original position. Good luck at the show. Enjoy!
Sandy

CONTACT AND BACKING
Saturday, 08-Apr-2000 21:25:14
Hi Sandy, thanks for answering :)
I'll have to ask my instructor, but could you just clarify the difference between a light contact in a pleasure class and "steady" contact in an equ class? My instructor usually has us ride with a longer rein in pleasure classes, but I'm not totally comfortable with it that long at shows just yet and it makes it harder to "keep him together."
I think I know exactly what canter to ride because last Monday I was schooling on my own and our first direction felt so nice that it made me smile! Very relaxed, smooth, and flowing with Jeff "on the aids" ready to come back or move forward.
Regarding backing, is it "wrong" to shorten my reins before being asked to back? Do you have a good exercise to help Jeff be more responsive to the back aids? I tried after my lesson Friday, but wasn't very successful (he's not the best about it anyway). I squeezed with my legs to push him into the bridle while holding the contact and then squeezed the rein while still softly squeezing with my legs but that didn't work. We've got him in a rubber D-ring (I think because he's become a "schoolie") right now. Which is certainly a major improvement from the fall of 1998 when he was in a pelham and the winter of 1998-1999 when he was very strong in a slow twist full cheek :)
I get to school by myself on Monday again, provided it doesn't rain (we just had our outdoor done, so I get the indoor to myself for a 1/2hr to an hr). So I plan to work on my transitions, riding with "light contact," getting him to listen to my leg, and a little backing.
Thanks again. :)
Oh, P.S. - in my lesson Friday I got all but 1 of my lead changes (which I had forgotten about anyway) :) I'm easing into Novice Hunter this year; my friend's jumping Jeff for me at the first show and I'm doing the warm ups and u/s.

CONTACT AND BACKING
Saturday, 08-Apr-2000 21:25:14
Hi Sandy, thanks for answering :)
I'll have to ask my instructor, but could you just clarify the difference between a light contact in a pleasure class and "steady" contact in an equ class? My instructor usually has us ride with a longer rein in pleasure classes, but I'm not totally comfortable with it that long at shows just yet and it makes it harder to "keep him together."
I think I know exactly what canter to ride because last Monday I was schooling on my own and our first direction felt so nice that it made me smile! Very relaxed, smooth, and flowing with Jeff "on the aids" ready to come back or move forward.
Regarding backing, is it "wrong" to shorten my reins before being asked to back? Do you have a good exercise to help Jeff be more responsive to the back aids? I tried after my lesson Friday, but wasn't very successful (he's not the best about it anyway). I squeezed with my legs to push him into the bridle while holding the contact and then squeezed the rein while still softly squeezing with my legs but that didn't work. We've got him in a rubber D-ring (I think because he's become a "schoolie") right now. Which is certainly a major improvement from the fall of 1998 when he was in a pelham and the winter of 1998-1999 when he was very strong in a slow twist full cheek :)
I get to school by myself on Monday again, provided it doesn't rain (we just had our outdoor done, so I get the indoor to myself for a 1/2hr to an hr). So I plan to work on my transitions, riding with "light contact," getting him to listen to my leg, and a little backing.
Thanks again. :)
Oh, P.S. - in my lesson Friday I got all but 1 of my lead changes (which I had forgotten about anyway) :) I'm easing into Novice Hunter this year; my friend's jumping Jeff for me at the first show and I'm doing the warm ups and u/s.

CONTACT AND BACKING
Saturday, 08-Apr-2000 21:25:14
Hi Sandy, thanks for answering :)
I'll have to ask my instructor, but could you just clarify the difference between a light contact in a pleasure class and "steady" contact in an equ class? My instructor usually has us ride with a longer rein in pleasure classes, but I'm not totally comfortable with it that long at shows just yet and it makes it harder to "keep him together."
I think I know exactly what canter to ride because last Monday I was schooling on my own and our first direction felt so nice that it made me smile! Very relaxed, smooth, and flowing with Jeff "on the aids" ready to come back or move forward.
Regarding backing, is it "wrong" to shorten my reins before being asked to back? Do you have a good exercise to help Jeff be more responsive to the back aids? I tried after my lesson Friday, but wasn't very successful (he's not the best about it anyway). I squeezed with my legs to push him into the bridle while holding the contact and then squeezed the rein while still softly squeezing with my legs but that didn't work. We've got him in a rubber D-ring (I think because he's become a "schoolie") right now. Which is certainly a major improvement from the fall of 1998 when he was in a pelham and the winter of 1998-1999 when he was very strong in a slow twist full cheek :)
I get to school by myself on Monday again, provided it doesn't rain (we just had our outdoor done, so I get the indoor to myself for a 1/2hr to an hr). So I plan to work on my transitions, riding with "light contact," getting him to listen to my leg, and a little backing.
Thanks again. :)
Oh, P.S. - in my lesson Friday I got all but 1 of my lead changes (which I had forgotten about anyway) :) I'm easing into Novice Hunter this year; my friend's jumping Jeff for me at the first show and I'm doing the warm ups and u/s.

CONTACT AND BACKING
Saturday, 08-Apr-2000 21:25:14
Hi Sandy, thanks for answering :)
I'll have to ask my instructor, but could you just clarify the difference between a light contact in a pleasure class and "steady" contact in an equ class? My instructor usually has us ride with a longer rein in pleasure classes, but I'm not totally comfortable with it that long at shows just yet and it makes it harder to "keep him together."
I think I know exactly what canter to ride because last Monday I was schooling on my own and our first direction felt so nice that it made me smile! Very relaxed, smooth, and flowing with Jeff "on the aids" ready to come back or move forward.
Regarding backing, is it "wrong" to shorten my reins before being asked to back? Do you have a good exercise to help Jeff be more responsive to the back aids? I tried after my lesson Friday, but wasn't very successful (he's not the best about it anyway). I squeezed with my legs to push him into the bridle while holding the contact and then squeezed the rein while still softly squeezing with my legs but that didn't work. We've got him in a rubber D-ring (I think because he's become a "schoolie") right now. Which is certainly a major improvement from the fall of 1998 when he was in a pelham and the winter of 1998-1999 when he was very strong in a slow twist full cheek :)
I get to school by myself on Monday again, provided it doesn't rain (we just had our outdoor done, so I get the indoor to myself for a 1/2hr to an hr). So I plan to work on my transitions, riding with "light contact," getting him to listen to my leg, and a little backing.
Thanks again. :)
Oh, P.S. - in my lesson Friday I got all but 1 of my lead changes (which I had forgotten about anyway) :) I'm easing into Novice Hunter this year; my friend's jumping Jeff for me at the first show and I'm doing the warm ups and u/s.

CONTACT AND BACKING
Saturday, 08-Apr-2000 21:25:14
Hi Sandy, thanks for answering :)
I'll have to ask my instructor, but could you just clarify the difference between a light contact in a pleasure class and "steady" contact in an equ class? My instructor usually has us ride with a longer rein in pleasure classes, but I'm not totally comfortable with it that long at shows just yet and it makes it harder to "keep him together."
I think I know exactly what canter to ride because last Monday I was schooling on my own and our first direction felt so nice that it made me smile! Very relaxed, smooth, and flowing with Jeff "on the aids" ready to come back or move forward.
Regarding backing, is it "wrong" to shorten my reins before being asked to back? Do you have a good exercise to help Jeff be more responsive to the back aids? I tried after my lesson Friday, but wasn't very successful (he's not the best about it anyway). I squeezed with my legs to push him into the bridle while holding the contact and then squeezed the rein while still softly squeezing with my legs but that didn't work. We've got him in a rubber D-ring (I think because he's become a "schoolie") right now. Which is certainly a major improvement from the fall of 1998 when he was in a pelham and the winter of 1998-1999 when he was very strong in a slow twist full cheek :)
I get to school by myself on Monday again, provided it doesn't rain (we just had our outdoor done, so I get the indoor to myself for a 1/2hr to an hr). So I plan to work on my transitions, riding with "light contact," getting him to listen to my leg, and a little backing.
Thanks again. :)
Oh, P.S. - in my lesson Friday I got all but 1 of my lead changes (which I had forgotten about anyway) :) I'm easing into Novice Hunter this year; my friend's jumping Jeff for me at the first show and I'm doing the warm ups and u/s.

SHOWMANSHIP
Wednesday, 29-Mar-2000 20:17:14
Hello!
The person that I work with has a requirement that at shows everyone has to do showmanship because she believes that if we can't control them on the ground we shouldnt be able to ride them. I was wondering if you had any times on showmanship; how to turn yourself out the best and how to present your horse well. Thanks!!
Steff

Re: SHOWMANSHIP
Thursday, 30-Mar-2000 14:59:44
Hi Stef,
The closest I get to judging showmanship is the ‘model’ or conformation section of a conformation or pony class, since the AHSA Rule Book does not offer specifications for hunter ‘showmanship.’ When exhibiting your horse or pony in such a class, your appearance should be much the same as it would be if you were showing astride your mount. Breeches or jods, a well fitted, conservative hunt coat over a ratcatcher for girls and women or shirt and tie for men. Women should have hair tucked up or otherwise neatly contained and in a hairnet and helmet. Well polished high boots or jodpher boots should be worn. Dark gloves are a nice addition.
It is generally a good idea to have an attention getting device, like a piece of cellophane or a small box of tic tacs, for use in persuading your animal to stick out his nose and stretch his neck, pointing the ears forward when the judge is appraising your entry.
Of course, your horse or pony must be turned out immaculately, with excess hair all trimmed away and a coat of hoof polish on the feet. The bridle must be clean and in good repair, as well. You will want to position your entry with the front legs straight and together and then position the hind legs with one leg slightly behind the other. He should look alert and attentive, with a stretch in the neck, ears well forward and nose out.
Sandy

Thursday, 30-Mar-2000 20:10:45
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!
Stephanie

ndy

TRAINERS
Friday, 17-Mar-2000 20:51:21
I wrote to u before about trainers in New York and now where moving to South Carolina. I went to look for barns but very few where found. Do u know of any traniers down south around Greenville that teach equitation and hunters.
Ttink18@aol.com

Re: TRAINERS
Friday, 17-Mar-2000 23:55:20
Hello Ttink,
No names are coming to mind, but I’ll keep thinking. Meanwhile, I’d give the AHSA office in KY a call, asking for names of professionals in the Greenville area. You’d be wise to check out the leads they can offer you, by visiting each trainer, personally. Watch some lessons, tactfully inspect the condition of the horses and stable. See if the facility and trainer have what you desire. Good luck.
Sandy

Re: Re: TRAINERS
Saturday, 18-Mar-2000 12:
Thanks very much for calling KY. i'll look back in a couple of days.

Re: Re: Re: TRAINERS
Saturday, 18-Mar-2000 15:15:44
Ttink,
I suggest you call the AHSA office in KY. (ph) 606-258-2472 (fax) 606-231-6662 or write to them at:
American Horse Shows Association, 4047 Iron works Parkway, Lexington, Kentucky 40511. They can give you a list of professionals within a reasonable drive from your new location. Good luck.
Sandy

Re: Re: Re: Re: TRAINERS
Sunday, 19-Mar-2000 08:31:14
Thanks i'll try that
Ttink18@aol.com

CAN YOU HELP ME??
Monday, 20-Mar-2000 20:53:02
Hi-I take lessons at a stable in Hudson, WI and i usually ride western. But this week i feel "extra brave" and i want to start hunt seat.. but i have a problem. I have NO clue about it. Not even how to put the saddle on!! Well.. maybe a little bit about that. But i know nothing else about the sport. Besides when i started training for hunt seat down in Arizona. And that was just the basics. So i was just wondering if you had any "tips" so that i don't make a fool out of myself. I do understand that lessons are learning experinces, but i like to know what i'm getting myself into so that i don't look SO dumb. Anyways, if you could please e-mail anything that you think would be a big help to me... that would be awesome. The little things are what i need! Thanks for your time!
Kelsey

Re: CAN YOU HELP ME??
Monday, 20-Mar-2000 21:22:04
Good idea, Kelsey. Once you’ve experienced the fun and exhilaration of jumping, you’ll wonder why you waited so long. Go to a tack shop and ask for a good book on beginning English style riding. You will find lots of useful information in books, which will help you feel confident to start riding Hunt Seat. See if there is a pony club in your area. There is a wealth of good information to be gained as a pony club member. Ask around and if you can find an opportunity to observe riders at a horse show, you will both learn by watching and have a chance to evaluate various trainers, as well. Study the style, attitude and ability of the trainers while they coach their students. This will prepare you for making a good choice in an instructor. Once you’ve made your choice, approach the trainer of your choice and ask to meet with him or her at a convenient time to discuss their riding program, policies, etc. It takes many years to become an accomplished horseman, regardless of the style of riding you choose. There is no shame in being a beginner at something. Everyone started there. Good luck. Let us know how you progress.

LESSON IDEAS
Wednesday, 29-Mar-2000 14:28:23
Hi Sandy! I have been teaching a twelve year old girl for about 4 months now and I am looking for some suggestions of "different" things to work on. Her lessons are always private so all the attention is on her. I have worked on cavalettis, done the arm exercises, we work without stirrups, etc. I don't want her to get bored so I am looking for ideas of things to work on. She does the short stirrup division and is a fairly strong rider. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
Allison

Re: LESSON IDEAS
Wednesday, 29-Mar-2000 19:50:49
Hi Allison,
Naturally, exercises used in lessons will vary depending on the strong or weak points of the rider. I have several exercises within the pages of my URL. I like the eye exercise (Ride In), which is described in one of the training links. It is especially useful in developing an accurate eye for a distance when jumping, and can be used on the flat, as well. It can be incorporated in future lessons, teaching the young rider to plan ahead when performing figures of 8, serpentines etc.
Sandy

QUALIFYING PERIOD
Sunday, 19-Mar-2000 01:25:00
When is the qualifying period for:
Devon~ April first til March 31st?
PA National?
Washington?
National?
Do you have to qualify for Cap. Challenge? if so, when is the qualifying period? I would really like some dates as listed for Devon above. Thanks Sandy!
voodoo

Re: QUALIFYING PERIOD
Sunday, 19-Mar-2000 09:33:25
Hello Voodoo,
To learn the qualifying dates, entry deadline date and more about the Devon Horse Show, go to http://www.thedevonhorseshow.org/ or you can request that information by writing or calling the Horse Show office at: Box 865, Devon, PA 19333
(610) 964-0550 FAX (610) 964-1608
Pre-Show Hours: Monday-Friday 9:00am - 4:00pm
Sandy

Re: QUALIFYING PERIOD
Sunday, 19-Mar-2000 14:22:38
Hi,
thanks for the info. Any info on the qualifying dates for the other indoor shows i listed?
Thanks- really apprecaite it.
voodoo

Re: Re: QUALIFYING PERIOD
Sunday, 19-Mar-2000 14:31:38
Voodoo,
Links to most major horse shows, plus a host of other worthwhile sites can be found at:http://www.bigeq.com/info/links.htm. Enjoy!
Sandy

DOMINANCE
Friday, 17-Mar-2000 21:55:45
My 4 year old mare that i asked about headset earlier is slowly makeing progress. However we are continually fighting so to speak about dominance. She is an extreamly dominant mare. Do you have any suggestions as to what i can do with her to help put us in the right order as to dominace? also is there anything that will help me get her over this when i'm on her with other horses? Like in the show ring?
thanks
Elisabeth

Re: DOMINANCE
Hi Elisabeth,
Chances are that nothing in the form of excercises will change your mare's personality quirks, any more than doing so would change the personality traits of any people you know, however annoying their habits may be. Certainly, you should avoid situations (such as free-longeing) that leave you vulnerable to your mare's worst behaviors. If she behaves agressively during free longeing, don't free longe her, period. What could you possibly gain from it?
Don't expect miracles from training, clinics, seminars, or excercises, and don't expect your mare to wake up one day and have a different personality. Each horse is an individual, with likes, dislikes, and varying degrees of tolerance for both work and interaction with humans. Some are pets, some are child-safe, some are suitable for recreational or part-time adult riders (I hate lumping all adults into one category), some are suitable to be a junior rider's first green schooling project, and others only for those with extensive experience. There are some animals who due to behavioral issues, should only be handled in a professionally supervised setting, and some extremely difficult cases who should be handled exclusively by professional trainers, grooms, and riders.
The fact that you even have to think about the term "dominance" indicates to me that your mare has already scored a big victory over you in that department. I use the term during my beginner's orientation class (required of my riders before mounted lessons start) to teach even my youngest students (6-7years) about equine behaviors, and the need to address horses directly and firmly from the start, without question and without fail. If I detect a tendency toward hesitancy, I address this before it gets out of hand; I never expose a student to a difficult situation or an uncooperative horse before I can be certain that the student can act and react with total confidence. If such confidence does not become second nature to the point where it develops into an involuntary reflex (one that is as natural as breathing or blinking), working with a difficult horse will never be safe. The old adage that animals can sense emotions such as fear and submission is absolutely true, especially in our closest companion animals, horses and dogs.
No seminar, clinic, or method of training will change your mare's essential makeup. You may learn to cope better with her behaviors, and you may even be able to devise a program that integrates the level of handling she will tolerate with the level of training that you and she need to attain whatever clearly defined performance goal you have in mind (you do have one, right?). But if your ultimate aim is to be able to relax at the barn, it sounds like you will need a different horse. This is not to make any sort of judgement about your riding ability or as to whether your mare has talent, or is a worthwhile schooling project. Just that you will never be able to fit a square peg into a round hole. In fact, the most successful trainers have done nothing more mysterious than to convince their clients not to try to do so. Very few of them give seminars--they are far too busy at shows and at home with a barn filled with successful students and horses.
Good luck,
Mary O'Connor
AHSA "r" H/J/HE

Re: Re: DOMINANCE
Saturday, 18-Mar-2000 21:49:46
She displays little messages to me. When I'm riding she is fine until we get around other horses. Then she will pin her ears and unless i give her a sharp "No" she will kick out at the horse. When i free lunge her she will come at me and then veer off and sometimes when she's really wound up kick out at me. I really never minded that until someone else said i should do something about it. Then I was at a loss as to what. Thanks
Elisabeth

Re: Re: Re: DOMINANCE
Sunday, 19-Mar-2000 09:24:05
Permitting a horse too much tolerance can be very dangerous. Remember, one kick can mame you. Do not permit this kind of mis-behavior from your mare. If you are stumped, find a good professional to point you in the right direction
Sandy

Re: Re: Re: Re: DOMINANCE
Monday, 20-Mar-2000 16:23:13
Hi Sandy, Elisabeth--I was just browsing through the board here and felt I'd add my 2cents here. Goodness gracious! Elisabeth, that uneasy feeling that I detect between the lines of your posts has to be affecting your enjoyment of your mare and riding! Rest assured, that is not what your time at the barn should be about. Aggressive behaviors can get out of hand in an instant, with devastating, even fatal results. You should not ever free-lunge your mare at all if she behaves as you describe! Every time you handle your mare, it should be with the expectation that she will mind her manners; if you are on her in the company of other horses you will need to keep her attention on what you are asking her to do; this means that you must be prepared to keep her busy at all times. Young horses are like young children in the classroom; if you don't give them a task, they will fool around. If your attention wanders, hers will too. It comes as a surprise to many riders who are gaining in experience, but not quite "there" yet, that working with horses that are unpredictable for whatever reason (whether they are young, green, spooky, hot-headed, etc) requires so much concentration. It takes a sharp set of reflexes (usually developed over the course of years of experience) to deal with these types of mounts successfully, as situations develop quickly and turn quite dangerous if they aren't anticipated and headed off or nipped in the bud. If your reflexes aren't up to speed, you stand little chance of gaining the upper hand. Sandy's advice about working with a competent pro is right on the money--I'd go further and suggest you turn the whole project of schooling your mare over to a pro while you take advantage of a "schoolmaster" type mount and work on basic strengthening excercises you may have had to put off recently, such as daily and extensive work without stirrups. When you are a stronger rider, and your horse is more civilized, your partnership will have a far better chance of succeeding.
Mary O'Connor, AHSA "r" H/J/HE

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: DOMINANCE
Tuesday, 21-Mar-2000 17:40:17
I couldn't agree more, Mary. Thanks for your input. Well said, as usual!
Sandy

PREGNANT MARE
Wednesday, 26-Apr-2000 20:05:31
Hello!
One of the mares I ride often is due to have her baby in about 3-4 weeks. Once the baby is born how should I go about getting her back into shape? I ride her hunter jumper and would like to have her ready for next show season; this was her last baby. Thank you!
Carol

Re: PREGNANT MARE
Wednesday, 26-Apr-2000 22:33:12
Hi Carol,
It is good to hear such concern voiced by young equestrians. You are both wise and compassionate. The answer to your question should be based on the health and condition of the particular mare you are concerned with. I have had little experience with broodmares and suggest you discuss this issue with your vet. You might also want to visit http://www.sandhills.org/vet/askvet.htm where Dr. Hamilton, a vet offering advice online, can address your question from a veterinary viewpoint. His e-mail address is netvet@pinehurst.net Good luck.
Sandy

CHANGING A HORSE’S CAREER FROM GYMKHANNA TO HUNTER
(Desiree) (09-Aug-1999 18:41:28)
Re: CHANGING A HORSE’S CAREER FROM GYMKHANNA TO HUNTER
Monday, 09-Aug-1999 19:54:11
Hi Desiree,
You are to be commended for undertaking a worthwhile but difficult job on your own. However, the best advice I can share with you is to look around for a successful trainer, who can guide you in the right direction and spot trouble before it begins, saving you time and much effort. Even if weekly lessons are not an option for you, try to take a lesson every other week or even monthly. You have the right idea in beginning this horse's re-schooling by softening its mouth, however, a kimberwick is not my idea of the correct bit to accomplish your goal. Before you begin, have your mount's teeth checked by a good equine dentist to smooth out any painfully sharp edges or deal with problem wolfe teeth. His long history in a western curb will make his mouth seem a bit numb. You may find more success in trying different types of snaffles till you find one which makes the horse salivate and chew on the bit. If you are familiar with the proper proceedure in longing a horse, start by doing so while experimenting with different bits. In this way, you can begin training while simultaneously re-bitting him. Work on transitions from walk to trot and back to walk and then halting. Voice aids are a big asset with any horse, but will be particularly valuable on one with a hard mouth. Take your time, being patient, but firm while teaching him to respond promptly to your aids. Once your horse shows willingness at the trot, walk and halt, you can begin to include some cantering. Continue working on transitions and obedience while you are still on the ground. When you are happy with his progress, at the end of a longing session, go ahead and mount up. Start in a small ring, where you can use the rail or arena walls to stop him if he seems to associate the saddle and rider with his previous training and reverts back to his old ways. Be patient, using solid objects (walls or rails), rather than strong bits to teach him to stop. Continue working on transitions, adding controlled, even circles and other figures, keeping him interested and happy in his new 'line of work.' Good luck, Desiree and do keep us updated on your progress.
Sandy

BRAIDING A HUNTER FOR A SHOW: 29-Apr-2000 20:52:49
I am currently riding a horse in hunt seat classes at horse shows. I really need to know how to braid a hunter's mane and tail for the upcoming show season. I would greatly appreciate it if you could give me some information about it or if you could offer me some website adresses about this subject.
Thankyou,
Sam

Re: BRAIDING A HUNTER FOR A HORSE SHOW.
Saturday, 29-Apr-2000 22:08:30
Hi Sam,
It is a very good idea to learn to braid your own horse for shows. With enough practice, that ability might even prove to be a good source of income, braiding for other people. Braiding a horse well takes practice. It is best to learn from someone who braids well and is willing to let you observe. You can make yourself useful by cutting yarn for this person or holding a skittish horse. Most braiders would not mind a little extra help and will give you helpful hints in exchange. Once you have an idea of what results you are shooting for, go home and practice on your own mount. You will want to start with a clean animal, with no soap residue or show sheen, which would make the hair slippery. Comb the mane over to the off (right) side of the animal’s neck and begin by cutting the yarn before you begin braiding. You will need approximately 30 pieces of yarn, each about a foot long. Place the cut yarn in a convenient place, perhaps on one cross tie. Begin by measuring two of your fingers width of mane, nearest the horse’s head, comb this section again and begin to braid it. When you’ve braided about half way down the braid, place one length of yarn behind the three sections forming the next loop of the braid and include the yarn in the two outer sections of the mane hair, continuing to braid until you run out of hair. Be sure you end the braid with the yarn in the two outer sections of the braid again before tying the yarn into a knot. Let the knotted braid hang loose while you repeat this process all the way down the length of your horse’s neck. Once you have completed this initial step, you are ready to use a mane pulling device, like your ‘teacher’ used or a large pin or hook to tuck the braids, prior to cutting the yarn neatly when you are done. It is generally a good idea to pull all the braids up before tying any of them off. That allows you to adjust the length of the braids, making them as close to symmetrical as possible. Then, when you’re happy they are all even, tie them off and cut off loose ends of yarn.
Sandy

OPEN LETTER
Tuesday, 03-Aug-1999 02:08:28
I just want you to know that I agree with the points you make in your letter 110%. Having the privlege of owning "an old campainer" who is teaching my daughter more than any young horse ever could, I truly appreciate your viewpoint.
Barbara Klecz

Re: OPEN LETTER
Tuesday, 03-Aug-1999 03:24:18
Thank you, Barbara.
Sandy

JUMPING
Thursday, 05-Aug-1999
I own a 9yr old TB mare!She is really sweet and very willing!I do very well in hunter under saddle classes ext. she doesn't rush on the flat anymore!I started jumping her 1 month ago!She likes yo rush the fences!She loves to jump and will mantane her pace until 5 strides before the jump!I hav a horse show Sept. 15 (( think thats the date) do you think that would be rushing her to take her in hunter hack with inly 2 fences?Thnak you SOOOOO much
Kelly

Re: JUMPING
Thursday, 05-Aug-1999 21:09:53
207.172.203.25 writes:
Hi Kelly,
There are many exercises which are designed to help you teach a rusher that it is better to 'chill out' and enjoy jumping fences, rather than hurry and get it over with. The first thought that comes to my mind is 'Do you have an instructor who can help you with your horses training?' If it is possible, I'd recommend you work with a knowlegable horseman, who can help you find a solution to your problem. Horses, being 'herd animals' will seek 'flight rather than fight,' and often quickening their pace when they are confused by the aids or have an ill fitting piece of tack, causing them pain. Ask a professional to check the fit of your saddle on your mount, so that you are sure this is not the case. If you haven't had her teeth floated recently, find a good horse dentist who will file down any sharp edges, which may be protruding into her mouth, inflicting needless discomfort. If she's been sound, you probably can do without a complete exam by a veterinarian for now, but it would be good to ask one to update her on worming and innoculations. Once you are reasonably certain that nothing physical is causing her needless pain, I'd begin working on correcting this situation through training. You may need a slightly stronger bit for jumping than the one you find perfect for flat riding. It is not uncommon for a horse to get a bit cranked up when she sets her eyes on an upcoming obstacle and many successful showmen make use of a stronger bit for the show ring. If you are presently using a simple snaffle, try a slow twist for jumping. The most important ingredient in riding a course of fences is establishing the proper pace, one you are comfortable with, neither too fast nor too slow. School your mare to respect your requests on the flat, doing lots of transitions. Walk to trot, trot to walk, walk to canter and back to the trot, using no more force than necessary to teach your horse to listen to you, but enough to 'get the job done.' Set a 'mental speedometer' running as you ride and resist any temptation to allow your horse to go any faster than you are asking her to go. When you are satisfied that she is totally responsive to your aids, begin to jump again. Work her at the trot over very low obstacles. If there is a trainer or knowlegable friend you can get to assist you, start over ground lines, set approximately 5 feet apart, teaching her to maintain the same even rhythm over the rails. Once she can do this without rushing, ask her to jump a cross rail, set about 8 to 10 feet past the last cavaletti. If she rushes this obstacle, bring her back to a halt on a straight line. Do not allow her to continue cantering into the turn, even if she doesn't hurry. Teach her to come back to you and to stay straight through her body as she does the transition to the halt. When you are happy with her performance of this exercise, have the ground person add a small verticle approximately 18 feet beyond the cross rail. Continue building this small gymnastic, next adding a small oxer at about 24 feet beyond the verticle, stopping straight and smoothly on a line.
Sandy

MARES IN SEASON
Tuesday, 28-Mar-2000 14:08:45
Hello! I have a 5yo TB mare who's great under saddle until she comes in season!! I know that there are "drugs" out there to not have her come in, but I was wondering are they liegal? If so what do you think is the best one out there? Thank you

Re: MARES IN SEASON
Tuesday, 28-Mar-2000 21:28:09
Medication used to prevent a mare from coming into season is not illegal, to my knowledge, however, you would be wise to check with the AHSA, drugs and medications department to confirm that the drug your vet favors is, indeed legal to use in the show ring. There are several such meds in use, but I am not qualified to tell you which one to try on your mare. I’ve had a mare who used depo-provera, successfully, but I know there are new and better medications coming out all the time, so do make this inquiry of your vet.
Sandy

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