When you get off the tour bus, you run a gauntlet of little stores all selling galabayas and dresses and other such stuff for the tourists. Past all that, there's a checkpoint with armed tourist police selling tickets and keeping the salesmen out.

And then, this looms out at you.

This is the back side of the temple, and the carvings are in excellent condition. You can see how dark the lines are in this photo -- that's an indication of how deep the carvings went.