Resting on a covered platform outside the tomb of Rameses IV, I took a picture of the crossroads. Off to the right is the majority of the Valley of the Kings. Up ahead are some rinky dink tombs, Rameses XI, and, all the way at the end, Hatshepsut.

Rameses IV was a real treat, especially with my legs the way they were. It was a gentle incline down, and when I got all the way to the bottom I got to see his outer sarcophagus: this huge, stone thing shaped like a cartouche. The burial chamber itself had a rough, stony ceiling that seemed about ready to fall down at any moment, but I wasn't looking at that.

Really.