dog4

BUILDING A DOGSLED PAGE 4
DOGSLED LINKS FRANK'S HOME PAGE DOGSLED PAGE 3

Step #23:

Need two strips of hyfax plastic for the runners. The length of the runners, half inch thick and 2 to 3 inches wide.

Clamp the hyfax to one of the runners. If it is longer than the runners then let it hang over one end to be cut off later. Once clamped in place and centered the way you want it . Pay attention if you will add skegs that one side of the hyfax is flush with the runner so you have a place to put them. I did not instal skegs (for ice traction) so I centered the 3 inch wide hyfax on the runners.

Once it is clamped in place then mark a good spot every ten inches or so that will not interfere with any other hardware. At this point I removed the hyfax and used a connicle counter sink tool on the drill press at each mark so that the screws would be slightly deeper than the surface of the hyfax. I then reclamped it in place. Drill pilot holes and screw it down tight with wood screws. See photos.

Step #24:

Need an old tire. Old ATV tire works great.

Cut two strips out of the old tire to use as foot pads to keep your feet from slipping.

They should be about the same length and width as the false runners that you will be standing on.

Screw the strips down on the false runners with wood screws as shown in the photo to the right.

Step #25:

Need a piece of metal about a foot long and around 4 inches wide.

To build a snow brake. I discovered some other types of brakes that would probably work better or for different purposes. There is another type of brake for ice that I have not built yet. This one is not good for ice because it could break off taking your middle cross piece with it, but it seem to work fine for slowing me down in the snow.

Bend about 3" of the metal down at a 90 degree angle. I cut teeth into mine. Screw it securely to a piece of your sled building wood about 3" wide, 1/2" to 3/4" thick, and long enough to extend from the middle cross piece to far enough behind the rear cross piece that you can easily push it down with your foot.

Step #25 Continued:

Need one heavy duty hinge.

Need two bungi cords.

I rounded the lower edge off the front of the wood mainly for the look of it. Next attach the piece to the middle cross piece with the hinge.

Drill a couple of small holes in the break metal just behind the bed of the sled and attach bungi cords from there to the eye bolts that were previously installed on the rear stantions.

Give the sled a couple of more good coats of linseed oil or other water proofing.

You are finished. Hope it looks good.

DOGSLED LINKS FRANK'S HOME PAGE DOGSLED PAGE 3

Step #23: Need two strips of hyfax plastic for the runners. The length of the runners, half inch thick and 2 to 3 inches wide. Clamp the hyfax to one of the runners. If it is longer than the runners then let it hang over one end to be cut off later. Once clamped in place and centered the way you want it . Pay attention if you will add skegs that one side of the hyfax is flush with the runner so you have a place to put them. I did not instal skegs (for ice traction) so I centered the 3 inch wide hyfax on the runners. Once it is clamped in place then mark a good spot every ten inches or so that will not interfere with any other hardware. At this point I removed the hyfax and used a connicle counter sink tool on the drill press at each mark so that the screws would be slightly deeper than the surface of the hyfax. I then reclamped it in place. Drill pilot holes and screw it down tight with wood screws. See photos.

Step #24: Need an old tire. Old ATV tire works great. Cut two strips out of the old tire to use as foot pads to keep your feet from slipping. They should be about the same length and width as the false runners that you will be standing on. Screw the strips down on the false runners with wood screws as shown in the photo to the right.
	Step #25: Need a piece of metal about a foot long and around 4 inches wide. To build a snow brake. I discovered some other types of brakes that would probably work better or for different purposes. There is another type of brake for ice that I have not built yet. This one is not good for ice because it could break off taking your middle cross piece with it, but it seem to work fine for slowing me down in the snow. Bend about 3" of the metal down at a 90 degree angle. I cut teeth into mine. Screw it securely to a piece of your sled building wood about 3" wide, 1/2" to 3/4" thick, and long enough to extend from the middle cross piece to far enough behind the rear cross piece that you can easily push it down with your foot.

Step #25 Continued: Need one heavy duty hinge. Need two bungi cords. I rounded the lower edge off the front of the wood mainly for the look of it. Next attach the piece to the middle cross piece with the hinge. Drill a couple of small holes in the break metal just behind the bed of the sled and attach bungi cords from there to the eye bolts that were previously installed on the rear stantions. Give the sled a couple of more good coats of linseed oil or other water proofing. You are finished. Hope it looks good.