Growing up, my parents planted a vegetable garden each year, and as loving parents they often involved me in the gardening process. Although I was fascinated by the planting of seeds and enjoyed much of the intermediate and end product, gardening maintenance was a childhood chore akin to making the bed or setting the table. Thus, as an independent adult the thought of keeping a garden never occurred to me.
Then one day I discovered that the city in which I live offers use of a community garden not more than a quarter mile from my home, ensconced between a bypass and a hotel. A call to the Parks and Recreation department revealed that plots could be leased for $30 per annum, and it occurred to me that I might start my very own garden. I realized that my childhood aversion to the effort involved was more an issue of control than anything else; as an adult I could do things "my way".
"My way" began as an ideal but has been segueing year-by-year into a more practical combination of pragmatism and philosophy. Thereforeto, I outline here the constraints, goals, and strategies that have evolved from my experiences to date.
My general goals are to enjoy myself, create an aesthetically pleasing plot, and produce tasty food. Since I would like to accomplish these feats with minimal expense to my health and the environment, my garden ideally should be organic (no herbicides or pesticides), all-natural (a previous plot-holder foolishly used nylon pantyhose to bind plants), self-sustaining (it'd be nice if every crop were either perennial or could be re-grown from its own seeds, but in practice this means not using additives like, say, peat moss, which is a non-renewable resource from afar), low-maintenance, and low-cost.
The city provides a limited quantity of wood chips and unlimited quantities of leaves which "cook" themselves in a big pile. These I've used to construct pathways to cut down on the roughly 1000 square feet of plot space. My plot is divided into three main sections. The first section is subdivided into six rectangles, four of which are now for annuals. The remaining two rectangles within the first section and the remaining two sections are reserved for perennials.
I till the annual section rectangles twice a year with a spade. To provide nutrients to the soil and to deter weed growth, I use a "green" mulch -- that is, I grow annual ryegrass over the winter; this gets tilled into the soil in the spring. I rotate the annual crops so that each rectangle alternates yearly between a bean crop and a non-bean crop. I add as much leaf mulch to the soil as possible. Identified weeds include cocklebur, crab grass, broadleaf plantain, yellow wood sorrel, bindweed, purslane, geranium, tree-of-heaven, and chickweed. My general calendar runs as follows:
Spring: | harvest winter crops, till soil in annual section, plant summer annuals, mulch pathways |
Summer: | weeding, mulching, and harvesting |
Fall: | harvest summer crops, till soil in annual section, plant winter annuals, mulch pathways |
Winter: | mulching |
Continuous: | weed, mulch |
Note about photography: Photos were taken with a generic self-focusing 35mm camera using generic 35mm color film (usually 200 or 400 speed) and developed by the mail-order firm Clark Color Laboratories. In 1999 I scanned the prints; from 2000 to 2002 I bought a copy of the pictures as a floppy disk of JPEGs; and from 2003 to present Clark uploaded the photo files to the web. I manipulated the JPEG files using Microsoft Photo Editor. All photos were shot during the month of June of the respective year.
The following key items appear on the Annuals and Perennials pages.
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Last updated July 24, 2005 by Colt Mazeau