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This is obviously the most subjective of all the topics covered here, but most photographers develop their techniques with time and experience and there is always some logic behind it.
Being a bit critical, I also will not shoot if many other requirements are not met. I am going to outline some of these conditions below: Water the water in the tank may appear clean and clear to the human eye but the film will give you an unbiased opinion. I always do a large water change the day before the shoot. This will remove the tannins that may have leached from the driftwood and discoloring metabolites from fish waste. If you skip this step, your pictures may appear yellow.
Substrate I always use s gravel vacuum to thoroughly vacuum the substrate before a shoot. This prevents unsightly debris from floating into the field of view. It may not seem like much but once a small piece of debris has been caught by three sources of light, it appears like a shiny, white speck. At worst, it can look like your fish have Ick.
Glass sides the back and the two sides of my photo tank are spray-painted black to avoid seeing wires and other equipment. In addition, some fish, especially cichlids, seem to feel more comfortable and secure with the dark sides. The front glass of the tank needs to be thoroughly cleaned on the inside and out before the shoot. The inside glass needs to be cleaned to remove any spot or slime algae use an aquarium glass-cleaning scrubber. The outside of the front glass needs to be thoroughly cleaned. I use a non-toxic, non-abrasive cleaner. Even if it looks clean, it is a good idea to wipe it down with a moist towel. The tiny dust particles on the surface of the glass cannot be easily seen. These particles will become bright, glimmering spots when the two or three flashes hit them. It is hard to keep glass and acrylic from scratching but if it does get scratched, it is best to wait until the fish swims away from the scratch or, I suggest you use another tank. The fish itself make sure that you are photographing a healthy, attractive subject with flattering fins. I've photographed a few specimens, only to discover later when looking through a loupe that they had Ick! Occasionally, I may buy a fish from a pet store that I feel has to be photographed right away. Unfortunately, these fish usually display many signs of stress and it shows on film. The best photo subjects are fish you have had in your tanks for a while.
This is why I use photo tanks they are easy to control and arrange aesthetically. Photo tanks a photo tank is a small tank designed to show off a fish with none of the unsightly aquarium hardware. I set up my photo tank differently for each fish, depending on its natural habitat and allow room for the fish to swim. They are usually 10 or 20-gallon tanks. I decorate these tanks as naturally as I possibly can, hiding anything I don t want in the photo by using rocks and plants. I make sure that each photo tank design has a few sweet spots in it. A sweet spot is a place in a tank where I want the fish to swim or stay. Once the fish is at the sweet spots, I focus and click, being assured of an attractive and problem-free background. Plants, rocks and driftwood do not disturb the viewer like PVC tubes, heaters and air tubing.
Invest time and effort into making the photo tank look attractive. A quickly set up photo tank with freshly purchased plants often looks sloppy because the plants have not had the time to reorient themselves vertically to the new source of light. I rarely shoot on the same day as I set up my photo tank. This allows the plants to straighten and perk up. Bunch plants purchased from stores are often unhappy looking and need some time before they are attractive. Attention to detail is very important if you want a good photograph. The effort you put into it shows with every shot. I control these conditions before I sit down to shoot. Photography is a fine blend of art and science. In my opinion, you need more science than art for fish photography. This suits me just fine because I don t consider myself artistically gifted. If you separate the art from the science, you find that the science portion is very controllable. This field is something anyone willing to invest the time and money in can do very well. While artistic fish photography is rare, some European masters like Arend van den Nieuwenhuizen produce images that are technically and artistically exceptional. Most hobbyists are interested in seeing what a fish looks like at its best; for that, you don't require much artistic skill. Do you use your camera in manual or automatic? This is a question that I hear very often from beginning fish photographers. If you are not comfortable using your camera, you may be tempted to use it in the automatic mode. If you have TTL (through the lens) metering and have a dedicated flash, this may work well. However, if you decide to add additional light for removing shadows and possibly a third flash or AC slave strobe for increasing depth of field, it is not going to be possible to use the automatic mode. Your camera cannot account for the additional light generated by the separate strobe. Here, you will have to use the manual mode. It is not difficult. Get a pencil and a pad of paper. Shoot a whole test roll using slide film on a fish or even the plants in the tank. Record your camera setting for all the exposures. If you are using 100-speed film and one camera-mounted flash, start at f/8 and 1/125th second. Then change to f/11. Then try f/16. Assuming you maintain a constant 1/125th second shutter speed, you will be able to tell the difference between the three shots. The f/8 may be too bright (overexposed) and the f/11 may be just right and the f/16 underexposed. Be certain not to use print film to do this the processor will compensate for your errors and you will not be able to tell the difference easily. You can ask your developer to number your slides when you have this first experimental roll developed, this will help you identify your mistakes. Similarly if you are using an additional strobe or flash, you could use f/11, f/16 or f/22 as your aperture settings. This experiment will tell you what your aperture should be assuming a constant of ASA 100 and a shutter speed of 1/125th second. I suggest you buy the paperback book 35mm Photography by Craig Alesse, available at any bookstore, if you don't understand the relationship between film speed, aperture and shutter speed in regards to exposure. Thoroughly understanding this is crucial if you are venturing into manual photography. Why do I always get a flash reflection on my photos? This frequent question has an answer. Assuming you are always aiming the flash at an angle away from your camera, this is caused by two causes. First, you may be using a compact or instamatic camera equipped with a small lens. Second, you are using a wide-angle lens like a 28mm or a 35mm or even a 50mm lens. The human eye sees the world similar to a 50mm lens. A 28mm lens sees a wider angle than the human eye. A fish-eye lens sees much more than 180 degrees. A 100mm lens sees only about 30 degrees in front of you and a 400mm lens sees a narrow 5 degrees in front. The longer the focal length, the narrower the camera s field of vision. So, using a 100mm macro lens will significantly reduce your chances of getting a flash reflected on the film. Having said that, I still have to throw out about 5 or 6 from each roll due to this problem. To avoid other reflections, I shoot in a dimly lit room, wearing dark clothes and a dark pair of gloves. Remove shiny objects from the area. If you wish, you can hang a dark cloth behind you and all around the tank to avoid additional reflections. Do I need a Tripod? A tripod helps if you are going to be in front of the tank or many hours; the camera and lens can get heavy after a while. Since this is flash photography, the tripod is not meant to stabilize or steady the camera, but rather give your arms a break. Before you buy a tripod, make sure it has the ability to rotate and point the camera at all angles in the front. It is not necessary to purchase a heavy tripod like the ones used in outdoor photography, a light and cheap one will suffice. What shutter speed should I choose? Your shutter speed will be limited by the flash sync if you use a flash. I would shoot at the maximum allowable speed during flash photography. In my case, it is 1/125th second. Since you are going to have a flash, the light burst will be fast enough to freeze any movement, regardless of the shutter speed. Still, the only thing I would use to control the exposure is the aperture.
Another photography technique is to have a tank divided by a clean sheet of glass into two, the bare front where the fish is kept and the back where there are plants and decorations. The front section is narrow and only allows a couple of inches for swimming. This is an unacceptable method for cichlids. They look terrified and it shows. Sometimes cichlids are squeezed and injured by this technique. On the other hand, this technique works very well for killifish, small tetras and some Anabantids, where the fish are not as concerned about their surroundings as cichlids. These small fish are not as likely to be crushed. Another technique I ve seen used to avoid reflections is to put the lens right up against the front glass of the tank. This requires a lens with a very small focus distance and it is very difficult to get good shots. Try it and see what I mean - you'll just end up scratching the glass with your lens.
I have taken many slides of tetras and other small fish that I am happy with but none of them are what I consider excellent or great. It is easy to rise above the average in fish photography by following some of the techniques described above but I find it is extremely hard to make the jump from my level to the levels at which the individuals mentioned above, especially the Europeans operate.
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