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Jonathan in Tunisia and Sicily
July 1997
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Carlo Maccioni and Franco Falconi
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aroving click for soundtrack

 

  Jonathan's page



Before Cape Blanc

From Cagliari to Bizerte

  • moorings left on  July 12,1997 at 8,00. Head 161°. A force 4-5  NW wind drives the boat at 6-7 Kn
  • Jonathan sails fine until sunset, on pretty rough following sea
  • by night wind falls to force 3 and speed to  4 Kn. The night is very clear under starry sky 
  • at dawn, wind  falls further and we start up the engine. At 7,00 of 13  we raise Cape Blanc:  it's Africa!
  • at 8,00 rises a force 4 East wind, that drives the boat at 5 Kn. We round Cape Blanc and sail along the coast to the port of Bizerte.We enter it at 12,00. At 13,00 the boat is moored.


  • Jonathan at Bizerte
  • The old port 

    Bizerte

    • Our first contact with Africa's land is Bizerte, that we visit on 13 and  14
    • The Old City includes the Medina and an inner port,  utilized by small boats, defended by an imposing Turkish forteress. 
    • The New City, with colonial and modern districts,  is pretty cute. A magnificent seafront promenade with palms and other plants stretches along 6 Km from the port to the beaches and Cape Blanc.
    • The port, spacious and well protected, includes a quay and a warf for leisure boats, and is located before the mouth of a ship canal leading to a great inner lagoon.


    Before Cape Farina

    Moorings at Sidi Bou Said
     

    From Bizerte to Sidi Bou Said

    • Moorings left on 15 at 7,00 under total lack of wind. Engine started , we make for Cape Zebib, where the course is barred by a long row of buoys that we round 6 Ml offshore: a tunafish net.
    • overcome the net with some danger, we head to cape Farina, round it, drop the anchor before a beach for us to bathe and have lunch.
    • weighed the anchor, we sail southward driven by a light East wind, along the coast of Camart and  Marsa, crowded by cottages and villas, to Sidi Bou Said
    • We enter the port at 18,00. After wandering  pretty long among the wharfes looking for free moorings, at last we can moor the boat along the main pier.


    a house at Sidi Bou Said
    a domus at Carthago

    Sidi Bou Said and Carthago

    • Sidi Bou Said is the sea resort preferred by the inhabitants of Tunis. It's a village perched on  Cape Carhago's promontory, with cute white houses and turquoise-blue windows.
    • The leisure port, very functional, is situated 100 mt downhill , by a beach crowded by middle-class Tunisian families .
    • Carthago covers a very wide area between S.B.S. e La Goulette, where tourists can visit the many lots of Roman and Byzantine ruins interspersed with modern built-up districts. Very attractive the thermae of  Septimius Severus,the theatre, a bloc of Roman domuses and a palaeo-Christian basilica. All amongst green meadows and trees.
    • The Punic remains are scarce: the tophet. the military and merchant ports. However many Punic finds are displayed in the Archaeological Museum located in the old seminary, built by the French close to an awful cathedral in neo-Bizantine style.



  • The mosque az-Zitouna
    Hammamet
    Tunis, Hammamet, Kairouan
    • On 17 we visit with a rented car Hammamet and Kairouan; on 18 Tunis, of course by foot.
    • The Medina of Tunis is large and incredibly crowded. Includes many monuments as: the az-Zitouna Mosque, the Medersas, the tombs of the Beys and the greatest souk of Maghreb.
    • Tunis' modern districts aren't so interesting. The downtown is caotical and pretty dirty. The urbanistical and architectural layout is typical of many colonial cities built under French rule.
    • Hammamet is neat and cute. The medina includes a borj  of the tenth century, and the modern districts, that stretch along the beach, remind of Antibes.
    • The Medina of Kairouan, encompassed by its imposing ramparts, includes dozens of mosques, among which the Great Mosque built in the 8th century with great reutilization of Roman building pieces

     
    From Tunisia to Sicily
    • After refueling, we leave the port of S.B.S on 20 at 7,30, with force 4 NW wind, moderate sea, and poor visibility
    • the navigation goes on at 5-6 Kn until sunset. Past  the island of Zembra  and Cape Bon, the wind lowers slighty
    • By night we lower intentionally our speed to avoid reaching Marsala before dawn. The sky is cloudy, preventing us to take avantage of the full moon.
    • On 21, at 6,30 we raise the island of Favignana and later the Sicilian coast. At 9,00 we enter the port of Marsala where easily  find free moorings at a wharf reserved for leisure boats
    • In the afternoon we go downtown for shopping. Back in the port, we embark Carlo's daughter and niece, Carla  and Laura, who were just coming from a sea-bathing day spent at Mondello with some friends from Palermo


    at Favignana
     Cala Rossa

    Marsala and the Egadi

    • Marsala is wide and dusty. It doesn't impress much, apart some streets of the inner city. However you can eat  very fine.there. Everywhere memories of Garibaldi, the Mille and the Florio family
    • On 22 we circumnavigate the island of Favignana driven by a fresh NW breeze. We find shelter at Cala Azzurra, where drop anchor to eat and bathe.
    • on 23, with Carmelo, a  friend of the girls, we sail again to Favignana and moor the boat in the port. After visiting the village, we sail to Cala Rossa, where drop anchor
    • Cala Rossa is beautiful : the cobalt-blue water looks like crystal and the bay,  surrounded by ancient tuff quarries, displays a paradisiac look


    by day
    .by night

    From Marsala to Sardinia

    • we leave Marsala on 24 at 8,00 instead of scheduled 5,00, after a delay due to strong sirocco until 7,00 and afterwards to stranding on an unbeaconed seaweed bar near the wharf
    • we sail quite easily until sunset, driven by a force4 East wind, that shifts to West at 21,00
    • By night, sailing close to the wind is less comfortable because the rougher sea and the girls start getting seasick
    • On the dawn of  25, the West wind raises to force 5-6. The girls suffer for the whole day and since 18,00  Franco starts suffering himself.
    • At 19,00 we raise Cape S.Lorenzo: Sardinia is in sight. But the wind increases to force 7, a moderate gale. The sea grows very rough and hinders the course towards the coast. We realize also that both bilge-pumps don't work
    • of necessity, since spending another night offshore would have been too dangerous, for Carlo was the only man valid left and already slumberous for not sleeping since 36 hours  , we radio for rescue.



    Porto Corallo, the day after

    Sea rescue!

    • our call is received by Cagliari-radio and forwarded to the Coast Guard operative center, that take charge of the rescue
    • at 20,00  a Danish cruise ship, the King of Scandinavia, joins us, stops and invites us to shelter  the boat past her lee side
    • At 21,00 the cargo ship Calabria  invites us to leave the K.o.S and put the boat past her hull. We thank the Danes and handle to join the new shelter
    • At 22,30 comes the Coast Guard vedette boat CP811 and hands us a cable that we fasten to the forecastle. The girls tranship .Afterwards the vedette tows us while the Calabria sails in convoy assuring her shelter until near ashore
    • at 3,00 we enter , always atow, the port of Porto Corallo and moor the boat along the quay. Both   the cabin equipment and ourselves are soaked wet. In spite of it we manage to sleep until 10,00, after thanking the rescuers, of course.
    • One week later, fulfilled the bureaucratic duties, we sail to Cagliari 


    Acknowledgements

    We are grateful, for their effective disinterested and friendly partecipation, to all people who took part in our rescue,  namely:

    • The Officers and the Operators of the Coast Guard Operative Centre of Cagliari
    • The Captain and the crew of the Coast Guard vedette CP811
    • The Shipowner Tirrenia SpA, the Captain and the crew of the cargo ship "Calabria"
    • The Shipowner, the Captain and the crew of the cruise ship "King of Scandinavia"
    • The operators of Cagliari Radio and the radio-operator of the ferry ship "Karalis"
    Carlo Maccioni and Franco Falconi Jonathan's page
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