| STEP 4: PADDLE OUT AGAIN AND AGAIN |
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Paddle out at the same spot the next day. By the end of the second day, you might be able to get to your feet more frequently. After a week of this, you should try to cut into the green face of the wave, rather then just going straight in the whitewater. To cut, first catch a wave, then stand and lean in toward the direction of the green face of the wave. In order to execute this, you'll have to learn to read a wave to see if it's going to be a rideable wave or if it's going to close out. |
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A closeout is a wave that's usually a waste of time because it has no wave face. You won't be able to cut, because the whole wave is whitewater. The best way to figure out how to judge waves is to watch good surfers and see which waves they are taking off on. After several times trying to cut, you'll begin to feel where you should be standing on your board. To stand on the best place of your board for speed is to trim. In time, you'll eventually know which waves are best for cutting and trimming. Once you can cut and trim at will (after several weeks of falling), you'll be surfing. Then you'll be stoked. |