Materials Needed:

3/8" X 4' X 8' sheets of plywood

8' 2-by-4s

electric, hand-held or bench saws

handsaw

hammer & nails

electric sander/sandpaper

drafting compass

string & chalk

garden hose

sawhorses

nail punch

ink pen

wood screws

3/8" PVC pipe

push-pin

General Guidelines:

1. Decide on the type of ramp(s) you want to build, sketch out the design and dimensions on paper.

2. Acquire the tools listed below and as much wood as you can get your grubby little hands on

3. Find a work space to use (garage, backyard, etc.) and lay out your supplies. If you're planning to build a fairly large structure (permanent) try to build it on site.

4. For ramps with curved transitions, you will need to use the string-and-compass method shown below.

5. Once you've drawn and cut your templates, next comes the bracing. Shown below are two methods. Both are effective, but the cut-out version, while more work, is a stronger design.

6. Once you've done the framework, you'll most likely need to prep the top piece(s) of the plywood (which must bend to fit the transition without breaking). Do this by propping up the sheet(s)--already cut to size--at a sloping angle and soak with a hose at low pressure for an hour or so. As the wood becomes soaked, apply an increasing amount of weight to the center of the board(s)--using bricks or something similar--until the wood attains the desired curve. Now nail the wood onto the framework's 2-by-4s. If your ramp is to have coping, make sure to leave enough space for it to fit snugly. Always go WITH the grain of the wood while bending and apply the ply!

7. For a smoother transition, sand the bottom edge of the top sheet at an angle flush with the ground. Check for jagged splinters. Sand or paint if desired. Paint will make your ramp faster!

8. Duct tape, airplane or electrical tape or aluminum strips may be added to smooth the transition's bottom edge.

9. Congratulate yourselves on a job well done (?) and start shredding!

String and Compass Method

click here for an illustration of the compass & string method

1. Figure how much transition curve you want (in feet & inches) and how much vert, if any.

2. Tie one end of the string around the push-pin and stick it in the sheet as shown.

3. Holding the string taught, measure out exactly the amount of transition (see step one) and mark this on the string with an ink pen.

4. Tie the drafting compass to the other end of the string and tighten it so the slipknot is right on top of the mark you made.

5. Holding the string taut, swing the compass from the sheet's edge in a quarter-circle, marking the template with the chalk. You may need to move the contraption around to get the desired curve and best use of space!

6. Place sheet on sawhorses and cut out templates carefully.

7. If you want to make a ramp with a decreasing transition, you need to modify the above steps and instead of using a push-pin, use a round object that is 6 inches to 3 feet in diameter, such as a paint can or a round garbage can. Attach the string to the round object and somehow secure it to the wood in place of the push-pin in step 2. As the string winds around the round object, it will get shorter and your transition will become tighter. This is called a decreasing radius transition and it is very cool when making launch ramps and quarter pipes. Experiment and eyeball in a cool tranny.

POWER SAWS ARE FUCKIN' DANGEROUS

Transitional Bracing Methods

click here for an illustration of how to do bracing

Number One: Cut Out

1. You need 3 identical templates. Using a 2-by-4 as a model, trace cut marks holding it flush with curve's edge.

2. Distribute brace/cut marks as evenly as possible.

3. With a jigsaw, cut out all marked spaces just outside of lines.

4. Nail in some bracing 2-by-4s to hold up structure.

5. Cut 2-by-4s to width of ramp.

6. Slide 2-by-4s into cut slats (they should fit snugly).

7. Connect platforms, top platforms, additional bracing or coping.

8. Apply to sheet(s) (see string and compass)--use nail punch to drive nails flush.

Number Two: Side Nail

This method is quicker to build and much less work.

1. After cutting the templates, simply nail in 2-by-4s through the sides at the same angle as the first method, using 3"-4" Flathead nails per side per stud (this woks much better if you have help to hold the 2-by-4s in place).

2. Follow steps 7 and 8 of method one.

Dr. Splinter's Helpful Hints

1. If this is your first ramp, keep it simple. A quarter-pipe or small launch ramp makes a good first project. Then you can add on.

2. Be resourceful. If you don't have access to many tools, try to borrow some. If you can't afford wood, scrounge for some scrap wood.

3. Platform ramps and wood curbs are big again, and they're pretty easy to build. To ensure good design and durability, experiment on paper before you slap something together.

4. If you have nowhere to keep a ramp permanently, consider building a few compact, portable ramps to bring to your favorite weekend spots.

5. Make sure your design is adequately braced under the top sheet, so you don't fall through the ramp (which I've seen happen).

6. For portable ramps, wheels or handles can be attached for easier transport.

7. Two small curved ramps, built to fit flush with the wall, can be spaced apart for a gnarly channel-wall ride set-up!

8. For extra kick on quarter-pipes, "obtain" a slick parking block and place it atop the ramp, for big rock-and-rolls and lapover tricks.

9. Most of all, experiment, try new things and have fun with your ramp. Always wear pads when learning to ride a ramp and don't snake runs in front of your friends. Good Luck!

Here's some e-mail we got on ramp Building:

I HAVE SOME GOOD ADVICE FOR THOSE WISHING TO BUILD HALFPIPES THAT ARE 4 TO 5 TIMES STRONGER THAN YOUR RIB METHOD. THE METHOD EMPLOYS THE RIB METHOD BUT EXPANDS THE METHOD TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF EVERY LITTLE BIT OF POWER. CUT OUT NOTCHES WHERE THE RIBS GO. THIS WILL ALLOW THE RIB TO DISTRIBUTE THE PRESSURE THROUGHT THE STRUCTURE. IN ADDITION, USE VERTICAL BRACES ON THE BOTTOM 3 FT OF TRANSITION, THIS WILL EXTEND THE LIFE OF THOSE RIBS BY THREE FOLD. LASTLY, USE PACK DIRT UNDER THE FLAT BOTTOM AND THE FIRST 2 FT OF TRANSITIONS. THAT TRICK WILL DEAD SOUND AND ALSO MAKE THE RAMP 5 TIMES STRONGER. IF THE RAMP IS TO BE A LIFELONG STRUCTURE, THEN REPLACE THE DIRT WITH CEMENT.