Lyttleton Rock

Summary

Steep, sustained routes are the hallmark of this excellent crag. Although very steep or overhanging, most routes are infested with holds of all shapes and sizes and are not very technical. Strength is a definite advantage though and they do require some thought and determination to place adequate pro. Most routes have had enough ascents to be clean of loose holds but footholds still tend to crumble occasionally.

The cliff is pleasantly cool on hot days, being sheltered from the nor'west. Some of the climbs are so overhanging that short showers may pass un-noticed. It gets wet from seepage after rain. The Ataturk wall is sheltered from the easterly, and unlike the rest of the crag gets afternoon/evening sun, making it a good choice for after-work sessions.

How to get there

Access is from the Summit Road where the Major Hornbrook Track crosses on its way down to Lyttelton, between the top of Mt Pleasant and the Mt Cavendish. From the gate the first small buttress (Suzie's Slab) is visible. From there an obvious track leads over to and around under the rest of the crag. The map referenvce is M36 877355.

History

Little had been done here up until 1970 except for aid routes, with Stu Allen being a big contributor. 1971 saw work from Ross Gooder resulting in **Gooder's Line (16). In the next ten years only five routes were added, probably the best being Fantasia (17) by Rob Rainsbury in 1975. Then in 1982 Lyttelton Rock was refound. John Visser did the unrelentingly steep **Scratching Julius (21) up an old aid line, which started a feeding frenzy by Lindsay Main and Joe Arts in 1982-83. Great climbs such as **Feeding Time at the Zoo (21), *Bombs Away (21), *Suppressed Personalities (20) (all Arts), and *The Promised Land (17) and Rubicon (21) (Main) date from then. In 1984, Ton Snelder and Roger Parkyn hopped on the wagon. With this new blood and bigger and better bolts to protect the steep walls, the cliff gave superb test-pieces like ***Getting Rid Of Mr Clean (23) and **Pumping Velvet (23) (Snelder) and serious propositions like **The Active Ingredient (21) (Parkyn). Their efforts culminated in the publishing of a now-classic guidebook in 1985. Where possible, their original route descriptions have been used.

Things then slowed, but didn't stop. In 1987, Steve Schneider added Stars and Stripes (23) up one of the old aid lines. Dave Fearnley also made contributions, with Drop the Bomb (25) and the phenomenally steep ***Rage Sur La Plage (24). The late 80s saw the ascent of Gone Bimbo (28) and other steep things before the quest for horizontal rock lead people to the superbowl. Activity then ceased through most of the mid-90s.

Tony Burnell's arrival in 1996 saw a rebirth, with many new routes (Red Wall, Cli Revisitied, Spoonerism, Ground Effect, Buddies, Jug Jockey, Art For Arts Sake, Timberlands, Striking Distance, Salome Malone), and a few other people snuck in some new climbs as well (Kynan Bazley with Rock Shock and John Chambers with Idol Boys).

Climbing Notes

Many of the routes have bolts and hangers, and belay/rappel anchors exist at the top of most routes (notable exceptions being Pumping Velvet and Salome Malone. Descents are usually a scramble along the top and down the side of the crag, avoid crossing the fenceline at the top of the crag as the land beyond this is private property (it's almost always preferable to abseil). Any easy route is usually an unpleasant gully. Even the bolted routes may require (or at least accept) gear between the bolts - and several routes have their bolts well spaced. Pack your brave pills and your flying goggles.

The crag forms part of a DOC-administered botanical reserve, since it represents one of the best examples of native vegetation in a south-facing, shady microclimate. Some species here are fairly sensitive, so don't rip into the vegetation.

routes are described from left to right

U1	Ugly One
U2	Ugly Two
SS	Susie's Slab
PV	Pumping Velvet
N	Neophyte

Ugly 1 13 6m Stuart Allan '72

The first obvious crack on the small left hand crag, visible from the gate.

Ugly 2 16 6m Stuart Allan '72

The second crack, offwidth.

*** Susie's Slab 19 6m Merv English '83

A classic two move wonder with bolt protection on upper part. The red wall right of the Ugly's. Proceed directly up the wall to mantleshelf onto large hold, clip bolt,then climb up slightly right on small holds to easier ground. Gear belay well back. Technically only 19, but gets one grade for the unprotected moves to the bolt. You can arrange a side runner, which whilst it won't keep you off the deck, will mean you hit feet first (as opposed to head first) if you fail on the upper mantle.

*** Pumping Velvet 22 7m Ton Snelder '84

Starts up a slight crack right of S.S. Hard layaways lead to a long reach out right to a (relative) jug, continue up to next bolt, then move up and slightly rightwards discovering holds and getting pumped. A really good route. 2 bolts, gear belay as per S.S.

Neophyte 13 10m

The black chimney,hardly catholic.

across the grassy gully on the next cliff are:

GW	Gone with the Wind	C	Crucifix
LG	Let it Grow	GL	Gooder's Line
AB	Afghan Bandit	R	Rubicon
S	Skunk	IT	It's Tough at the Top
SS	Sinking Ship	DV	Dumping Velvet
SO	Social Ostracyte	GT	Gravy Train
CT	Changing Times

un-named 19 12m John Chambers '96

Chimney up the deep slot with the white-yellow slots. Place a friend in the upper one and swing up and out R to the holds and a slot for a bomber #6 hex. Move up and R to join GWTW. Next pro is a thread at the top of the arete. Committing.

Gone with the Wind 18 10m Lindsay Main '83

the first decent arête on the buttress. Start as for L.I.G. then move left to climb the wall right side of the arête. Sparse pro.

Let It Grow 18 12m Lindsay Main '83

The crack on the wall between two chimneys. Tackle the low bulge on the right, then up top wall. Protection just adequate.

Afghan Bandit 20 13m Lindsay Main ( Ton Snelder Gavin Tweedie ) '83

The arête right of L.I.G. started by climbing Skunk to ledge at 3m. Then climb straight up arête with spaced protection. (Snelder and Tweedie) Lindsay Main climbed left wall on first ascent.

Yisturdie 16 8m Ton Snelder '85 (solo)

A clean crack line on wall left side of skunk gully, discovered on guide book check.

Skunk 7 13m

The deep poxy chasm with a large root at the bottom. Also a descent route.

Sinking Ship 15 12m Lindsay Main '78

The wide crack just right of an arête 2m right of skunk. Gross.

Social Ostracyte 20 14m Roger Parkyn '84

Up wall to right of S.S. Starting up S.S. to bulge, place runners and move up right to bolt. Continue to top. A direct start was added by Peter Smale (24)

Changing Times 18 12m Merv English '82

Boulder tricky moves at bottom of thin crack,then easier top.

Crucifix 21 12m Lindsay Main '83

Starts up crack 2m left of G.L. and then proceeds up crux on bulging arête. Good protection, #2 friend and wires at crux. Top arête scungy and unprotected.

** Idol Boys 23 12m Paul Jackson, John Chambers '97

the direct line up the arete left of Gooder's Line. Start under the prong (don't worry - the epoxy resin holding it in place seems to work), make powerful moves up to clip the first bolt, then swing around left (crux) to a good stance on the hanging slab. Move back right onto the arete and proceed up on good holds to another crux moving up past the third bolt to get established on the sloping prow. Then easily up to the belay. 3 bolts, double eyebolt belay.

* Gooder's Line 16 13m Ross Gooder '71

Prominent right facing corner, good technique avoids thrutching up the top offwidth looking section. The early good route here. Good protection.

Rubicon 21 13m Lindsay Main '83

Up the wall and through the bulgy wall and roof 2m right of G.L. Good protection. Gets dirty un upper section after rain.

It's Tough at the Top 20 13m Lindsay Main '83

Start up the thin crack 3m right of G.L. Move right to upper bulges and up to the top. Protection adequate (#1 & #2 Friends).

Eight Million Years 21 14m Lindsay Main '00

start as for True Blue, but swing onto the arete at the first bolt, then straight on up. 4 bolts plus anchor chains.

True Blue 15 14m Ross Gooder '71

The totally overgrown corner right of 'IT'S TOUGH'. Not the best.

** Dumping Velvet 19 14m Joe Arts '83

Climb directly up the wall using layways and one goodish hold 'til you reach the first bolt. Bridge up on easier ground to the 2nd bolt, then commit up the steeper, fingery wall. Above this holds improve - keep going (possible medium nut placement) 'til you reach a good ledge and the belay. 2 bolts, plus double ring belay station. Runout to the 1st bolt (watch you don't end up in thge bushes) and above the 2nd bolt (the one wire comes somewhat too late) - not a sport route!

Gravy Train 15 10m John McCallum '78 (solo)

Climb the arête right of D.V. where the cliff turns a corner. Pretty ugly.

GaG	Get A Grip on Yourself
W	Whitless
FT	Feeding Time at the Zoo
PL	The Promised Land
S	Steppenwolf
R	Restless
P	Porcupine
EC	The Environment Centre Bites the Dust
SP	Suppressed Personalities

** Red Wall 24 15m Tony Burnell '96

Takes a direct line up the red wall left of "Get a Grip on Yourself", start below a scruffy crack make a few moves up this before swinging out left onto the wall (BR), good holds enable you to clip (BR) devious but direct moves allow you to stand on the good move up awkwardly to good holds just above 3rd BR. Continue more easily up the wall past the new replacement (BR) on "Get a Grip on Yourself" step left at the top to a new double bolt belay.

Get A Grip On Yourself 20 15m Lindsay Main '83

The crack on the red wall 6m left of W. Climb the crack until it runs out, move left to a bolt which protects the scramble to the top.

Whitless 20 10m Lindsay Main '82

The horrible bulging arête left of Prophet of Doom. Grovel fearfully up on suspect rock. At least one early attempt resulted in the removal of a considerable amount of WHIT'S shin when a foothold broke off. Spaced pro, and a lot of it's not very good. Only really 17 but gets one grade for grvoellyness and two for suspect rock.

** Prophet of Doom 23 18m Simon Middlemass '90

either boulder directly up from the ground over the prow, or step left from the first nut placement on Feeding Time. Then directly up the wall past 3 bolts (crux at the horizontal break) to a double bolt belay. Strenuous and fingery at the top.

*** Feeding Time At The Zoo 20 18m Joe Arts '82

The faint line through the overhang on the left of the wall. Follow up the crack line on good holds, a good runner just on overlap protects hard moves to gain a horizontal break (crux). Clip the bolt above the break and proceed with gradually pumping arms up steep wall/groove (pro possible). Belay over the top off tree/boulder, or off the PoD belay to the left.

*** Driftnet 22 16m Ton Snelder '89

Climb the wall right of FTATZ into the shallow scoop, clip the bolt and execute devious moves to gain the finger slot. Crank up to the somewhat disappointing ledge, then grovel up 'til you're standing on it.
The original finish (recommended) goes straight up - hardish moves to get established in the 'dimple' from which it's possible to stand and place a nut high on 'Promised Land', then easier climbing to the top. Sustained and technically interesting, with adequate pro.
The more common (but less pleasant) finish is to grovel up the shallow groove on the left to an RP placement, then move back right to the belay (or just chicken out totally and head up the wide crack on 'Feeding Time').
Shares double bolt belay with Promised Land.

** The Promised Land 17 16m Lindsay Main '83

Right of Driftnet - a peg in horizontal break marks the line leading to line higher up. Runners in middle break protect moves up right to flake top then climb with care up top section to a double bolt belay.

Steppenwolf 14 15m Paul Drake '75

The wall and crack right of P.L. Scungy and nearly always wet.

Calling All Sport Climbers 18 15m Joe Arts '89

a line somewhere up the wall between Steepenwolf and Restless. No gear at all unless you movr right and clip the bolts on Restless.

* Restless 18 18m Joe Arts '82

Climb part of Steppenwolf then traverse right along ledge about 4m. Follow the new, shiny bolts up a vague corner in middle of the wall then trend right to the top. Double bolt belay.

Porcupine 15 18m Al Hay '77

The tussocky crack right of the Restless wall. Use the bottom bolt on Restless to protect the traverse. Nice moves on good holds although the pro thins out a little towards the top and the belay can be awkward. CDs are useful.

around the corner, hidden behind the trees is...

* Out on a Limb 19 20m John Birch '90

Either climb the tree and dyno for the jug, traverse in from 'TEC' or else grovel up on decaying, suspect holds (which seem to be dropping off with alarming regularity). Then up the steepening wall on good jugs past 3 bolts to a eyebolt belay on the left slab. Very pumpy. A lot safer since having been rebolted.

** The Environment Centre Bites the Dust 17 20m Joe Arts '83

Boulder up the juggy wall & faint corner to ledge and corner crack. Crux near the top. Double bolt belay. Good pro.

Yvan Lorne on Environment Centre

* White Lies 18 20m John Barnes '88

Start up as for Environment Centre, but from the ledge tend right to clip the first bolt, then up past second bolt to end at eyebolt belay on Supressed Personalities. Not as easy as it looks

Into the Trees 21 20m Ton Snelder '90

Direct start to White Lies, no gear 'til you get to the first bolt on White Lies.

* Suppressed Personalities 20 20m Joe Arts '83

About 3m right of previous climb. Up the bulging wall (preferably without using the battered tree) to jugs and crack. Proceed using holds on right up past peg, this is last good (?!) runner for a while. Continue slightly left to top. Eyebolt belay. The start is strenuous and upper section pumping. Good route, if somewhat serious.

Power up the wall, taking care not to impale yourself on the tree. Belay bolt.

Delicia 21 20m Athol Whimp '90

Cli... 20 John Barnes & John Chambers

Half a climb. Abseil down to the nook with bushes, then climb back up the arete. Three bolts.

Cli...Revisited 24 Tony Burnell '98

7 bolts. Starts 2 grooves left of 'Rage sur la Plage', same start as 'Spoonerism' but moves left after second bolt.

EC	The Environment Centre Bites the Dust
SP	Supressed Personalities
SP	Smash Palace
RP	Rage sur la Plage
AI	The Active Ingedient
B	Bodies
VR	Victim of Ravishment
BA	Bombs Away
DB	Drop the Bomb
SJ	Scratching Julius
SS	Stars and Stripes
MrC	Getting rid of Mr Clean
CK	Citizen Kane
TC	Tupping Cecil

on the next section of cliff, past a gully

Christchurch Disco A1 Roger Parkyn '88

An aid route up "a poxy groove that will one day be freed by some spoon with n o taste or self-respect.' Up a crack then R to 2nd bolt of Smash Palace. Continue R horizontally to bolt on Rage Sur La Plage and rappel off. Knifeblades, skyhook, wires.

Smash Palace 23 23m Joe Arts '85

Up the first prominent groove left of A.I., past two bolts to ledge. Then bridge up line left of pillar. Hard.

Acid Drop 24 23m Andy Milne '94

Up RSLP to the pillar, then up this.

Spoonerism 24 23m Tony Burnell '97

ascends the wall two grooves to the left of Rage

Ground Effect 25 Tony Burnell '98

Starts as for 'Rage's first bolt, then angles right to join 'The Active Ingredient'. (A direct start.)

*** Rage Sur La Plage 25 23m Dave Fearnley '87

Ascends the awesomely steep pillar on its R-hand side. Climb wall on small incuts left of A.I. past bolts then up right of side of pillar, move round left after top bolt, trending back right at the top. Sustained. Four bolts plus belay bolt.

** The Active Ingredient 21 23m Roger Parkyn '85

An awesome looking route, but not to bad due to a profusion of jugs. Start up a thin crack to reach ledge. Follow left arching line until it becomes horizontal, then up over roof to continue up easier wall to top. No protection on top section, scary. Very sustained but technically only grade 21 - two bolts, plus cams under the arch.

Bodies 22 22m Ton Snelder '85

This is not for boys - a fall could turn you into a `gurgling bloody mess'. A direct version of A.I. Up crack to ledge clip bolt, continue up bulgy wall above. Eventually good holds lead left to finish up A.I. Serious and sustained. Another bolt on top section.

*** Victim of Ravishment 22 23m Ton Snelder '85

Winds it way up wall up right of BODIES. Provides more climbing than the average Christchurch classic. Start as for A.I. to ledge, moves right past flake then up and back left to second bolt. Follow leftwards then up and back right to a short section of crack, (#1 & 2 friends). Continue straight up to the top. Double bolt belay over the top. There's also a separate direct start hidden in the trees.

Buddies 22 Tony Burnell '98

5 bolts. Starts right of the direct start of 'Victims of Ravishment' and finishes at a double bolt belay just beneath the lip.

past the next gully is a striking grey wall that only appears low angled. This is:

*** Bombs Away 21 18m Joe Arts '83

Not a slabby as it looks - very steep in fact. Start in bushes at left. A few desparate tree moves allow rock contact and bring the first bolt within clipping distance, hard moves lead up to next bolt, an easier section follows.The headwall is tricky but pumped arms can be rested at the obvious rest. First bolt does work. Double bolt belay over the top and back a bit.

Phil Stuart-Jones on BOMBS AWAY

Drop the Bomb 25 18m Dave Fearnley '87

The deceptively steep groove to the R of Bombs Away. Up past the bolt, then up crack line and R at the top.

Clip or Fly 24 18m Peter Taw '91

The wall L of SJ. Shares the start.

** Scratching Julius 21 18m John Visser '81

The obvious, steep crack at the left end of the face. Technically only grade 17 climbing, but extremely sustained and powerful. Finish straight up (although R is easier). Good pro. Bolt chain belay at top of Bombs Away.

Pete Moore abing off Scratching Julius.

*** Filet of Arnold 25 19m Ton Snelder '89

Pumpy climbing on good spaced holds. Four bolts.

Stars and Stripes 23 19m Steve Schnieder '87

The weakness 3m R of S.J.. An old aid climb. Follow the crack past a bolt to a wire fixed to one of the old aid bolts. Move around L and up the crack line. Continue to top.

*** Getting Rid of Mr Clean 23 18m Ton Snelder '84

Better than a work out at the gym. Strenuous and pumping. Start as for previous climb, but at the fixed wire continue straight up the wall to a further bolt protecting the top section. Bolt and chain anchor.

*** Citizen Kane 22 18m Joe Arts '84

The obvious crack line R of Mr Clean. A bolt at the start protects the crux, which is followed by a pump to the top. Good pro - though hanging around to get it in can be fun. Strenuous, so go fast. Has been top-roped by John Chambers in 52 seconds. Shares belay with GRoMC.

John Davis on Citizen Kane

Tupping Cecil 20 16m Pete Sykes '87

The line to the R of C.K. Sustained, with good pro.

Hornets Nest 14 Lindsay Main

Just L of the descent gully.

The crag about 50m R of the gully is the Ataturk Wall. This wall is 100m R from the main crag along DOC's Highway 1. The big roof is the THUNDERDOME AREA.

Fantasia 17 Rob Rainsbury '75

This is just as you come out of the trees. It is a good route apparently. Up the corner and flake.

Hyperspace 21 Ton Snelder '91

The bolted arete L of the cave. Up the wall, L at the ledge, don't drop off the top.

Chocolate Discharge A2 Roger Parkyn

Aid up the zigzag crack on the L end of the overhang section. Start in a groove, then L, then up. Knifeblades.

Gone Bimbo 27 Ton Snelder '89

The obvious line on the L end of the roof. Pull to the fourth bolt then R along the crack. No bolts protect the lip below the rap chain (leave the krab!). May be wet. Numerous variations exist.

Carnivore 27 Pete Taw '93

start at mysterious swine disease, traversing left across gone bimbo roof and finishing up Peter Carter's variation finish (27)

Mysterious Swine Disease 27 Pete Taw '92

Strenuous and gymnastic moves (you couldn't tell?) then up the last few metres of GB

Mega Pump 27 Pete Taw '92

Do MSD to the last bolt. Go L to CD pro then down GB to where the direct finish exits. Do this.

Next theres an abandoned project of Martyn Clark's - then...

Creatures of Power 28 Pete Taw

Awkward moves under the roof lead to easier ground.

Scud Muscles 23 10m Dave Fearnley

An interesting start with some loose holds gets you to the first bolt. Don't kick off the big ledge! Tackle the small roof at the second bolt, then up easier but looser ground with scant pro to finish in the weeds. Watch out for rope drag.

Jug Jockey 22 Tony Burnell '97

Start between "Scud Muscle" and "Frank's in a Frenzy". Start up the yellow coloured wall directly below a series of overhangs. Climb easily up to the first bolt, a hard move past the first bolt leads to a huge hold. Surmount the second roof on improving holds and continue up, steep but easy ground past three more bolts. At the top of the shallow right facing corner rock over out left to a no hands rest and a No.1 friend placement. Continue straight up the slabby wall avoiding the crack on the right which is the finish to "Frank's in a Frenzy". Single bolt lower off, four bolts, #1 CD.

Frank's in a Frenzy 23 10m Damian Carroll

The wall to the R of SM. Bolts, wires and cam(s).

* Art for Arts Sake 20 Tony Burnell '96

Takes a line up the steep rock between Frank's in a Frenzy" and "Stu Allen."
Above the initial roof is a left facing square capped corner. Start down and right, climb to the corner (BR) on slab, move up left to a small shallow scoop (BR), continue straight up over a small roof to good flat holds (BR), continue up passing the fourth bolt till the angle eases, last bolt, finish easily up to a double bolt belay slightly left.

Stu Allen Memorial Roof 23 Joe Arts '89

On the R end of the roof. The overhang and the R-hand leaning corner above.

Bridging over Lyttelton 25 Rod Newburn '96

Timberlands 24 Tony Burnell '97

Start about three metres right of "Bridging Over Lyttelton" directly below a steep overhanging groove. Beat a path up the wall between the trees to the base of the groove. Difficult moves into the groove lead to good holds. At the top of the groove swing out left onto the face and good holds lead to a no hands rest. Continue up a short vertical wall onto easier, but lichen covered, rock joining "Bridging Over Lyttelton" at it's last bolt. Finish as for "B.O.L.". 5 bolts.

Striking Distance 26 Tony Burnell '97

the steep wall/groove to the right of Timberlands. Climb the dead tree to reach the first bolt, then up on painful, crimpy things. 4 bolts.

Dead Men Don't Lie 18 Lindsay Main '89

Up a corner, a sloping layback and then an awkward mantleshelf. Straight up or sneak out L. Not a Castle Hill 18 so watch out.

Avant Garage 22 Joe Arts '89

Straight up to the top through the open book corner. Bolt chain at top.

Sneg Field 18 Joe Arts '89

Same start as A.V., but finishes R and lower down.

Ataturk Strikes Again 18 Joe Arts '89

2 bolts.

** Rock Shock 22 Kynnan Beazley '97

about 15m to the left of SM/CM. Easy moves to the first bolt, then a battle with slopers to the last bolt. Above the last bolt you can either swing left onto easy ground, or carry on up on the right via bridging. 4 bolts in total, plus a double bolt belay. Quite sustained.

The Mother of all Session Routes 22 Lionely Clay & Tony Stempa

Pitch 1: (18) climb up and R into the cave with the tree. Pitch 2: (22) either way out of the cave and up.

* Salome Maloney 23 Tony Burnell '96

Sart left of "Colonel Malone", move up onto a pedestal (BR.) below a small roof. Climb directly over the roof (easiest to the right of the bolt) using positive holds to reach huge jugs (BR). Continue directly up the wall past the third bolt to the fourth bolt, although it is easier to move towards the 18 to the left. After clipping the fourth bolt difficult moves up the front face of the obvious tower lead to a slight alcove, then on good holds over the top.
Note - no belay bolts at the top, good thread anchor possible over the top and back, or else scramble down to the Colonel Malone belay and abseil from there.

*** Colonel Malone 21 Joe Arts '89

Near the right end of the crag, just left of the wide gully. Stand on convenient block to clip first bolt, then straight up the steep face to a hard move thru a bulge just above the last bolt. 4 bolts plus eyebolt belay.

John Davis on Colonel Malone

Pimple on the Arse of the Universe 16 Joe Arts '89

A route-bag done only to compete with Lindsay Main (which is impossible).