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Summary
Some good middle grade climbs are to be found on this small crag, including the
classic ***Nudity 20. The harder routes are serious propositions with little
pro and the odd loose or brittle hold.
Pleasant grassy areas at the base, and great views of the plains and
the harbour make it a pleasant place to spend
a summers day (when Castle Rock can be too hot) if you're looking for
moderate routes. Since it's situated on the summit of the hill, it also
get sun 'til very late, making it a good spot for after-work climbing.
It's also well sheltered from easterly winds. In winter it only gets sun late
in the afternoon, and tends to stay damp and cold.
Since it's so near to Castle Rock it's quite
feasible to spend a day at both crags. It tends to not be
as crowded as castle rock or rapaki.
How to get there
The Tors are prominent rock pillars on the harbour side of the Summit Rd between
Castle and Rapaki Rocks, about 200m west of Castle Rock.
There are a couple of limited parking areas just opposite the stile.
Cross the stile and follow the track (part of the crater rim walkway) or go straight up the hill to the crag.
History
In 1970 the great developer Ross Gooder produced Smaug 19, and the excellent
**Hotlegs 17. 1973 saw exploration by Lindsay Main and Exposition 17. Then in 1977,
new-arrival John Allen did the superb classic ***Nudity 20 which had been cleaned
by Main. John also added *Future Legend 19. Over the next few years, these two
were the main contributors, Main's best routes being Cat's Cradle 21 and Mirage 20.
In a short burst of activity in 1979, John Allen added *Moss Gard 22.
The crag was then left alone, considered by most to be worked out, until Tony Ward-Holmes added the desperate
Someone Else's Girl 27 in 1993, being the first purely bolt protected route on the crag. Joe Arts then followed
on and bolted Bulgy Bowels and Progressive Aging in 1994 and Lindsay Main added Collateral
Damage 21 in 1996.
Climbing Notes
All but two of the routes require gear to lead them, and getting
a belay at the top can require serious amounts of extension. For
those wishing to top-rope, it's an easy scramble up the back.
Generally belays are on blocks on the top ledge and descents at either end or over the back.
There is a bolted belay for Mirage/Collateral Damage/Cat's Cradle.
The Left End
 |
| KC | Kilgore's Crack | GO | Gumbo |
| W | Wampeter | FL | Future Legend |
| F | Foma | CB | Crap Breech |
| GF | Granfalloon | D | D.I.Y. |
| P | Pantagruel | HL | Hot Legs |
| N | No Nirvanas | CC | Cat's Cradle |
| S | Smaug | G | Gargantua |
| MrB | Mr Baggins | P | Porno |
| GM | Gollum | J | Jambilicus |
|
| Kilgore's Crack |
8 |
10m |
|
 |
A short steep crack with good holds on the left margin of the cliff.
| Wampeter |
11 |
10m |
Lindsay Main '77 |
|
A steep crack with good holds but poor protection until the crux near
the top of the climb.
| Foma |
9 |
10m |
|
|
An easy-angled corner with a steep grassy bulge (crux) in the middle.
| un-named |
14 |
12m |
|
|
The bulge between Foma and Granfalloon. Negligible pro.
| Granfalloon |
12 |
15m |
Ross Gooder '70 |
|
Start in the easy-angled right-facing corner, at mid-height traverse
left and climb straight up near the edge.
| * Pantagruel |
13 |
15m |
Ross Gooder '70 |
|
Start as for G. but continue up the corner, by some interesting
bridging (crux).
| No Nirvanas |
17 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '77 |
|
Climb the sharply cut right facing vegetated corner, which steepens up
under a large block. Swing round to the edge on the left using
underclings, then climb up the thin crack. Watch for loose
rock in the top crack.
A variation (also 17) goes
right under the huge block, finishing as for smaug.
| Smaug |
19 |
11m |
Ross Gooder '70 |
|
Start on the left side of a wall wide. Climb up the thin crack
which steepens up under the large block, then proceed delicately
on small holds to layback past the block. Holds may be loose and
protection marginal.
| Mr Baggins |
10 |
15m |
|
|
Start in the middle of the wall near a prominent crack, move onto the
wall where this is easier.
| Gollum |
10 |
15m |
Ross Gooder '70 |
|
Starting on the right side of the wall, climb the left facing corner.
| Dominoes |
17 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '83 |
|
The wall and bulge between Gumbo and Gollum. Easy start, then up steep wall on good holds and over bulge.
Poor pro 'til well after the crux.
| Gumbo |
16 |
15m |
|
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Start up a crack beneath a jumble of large, loose blocks. Climb through the
first bulge then move left up the wall and over the small bulge.
finish straight up the wall above. Watch for loose blocks at first roof.
| * Future Legend |
19 |
18m |
John Allen '77 |
|
Climb the right crack through the slight bulge (crux), then easier up to the
overhang. Move up right onto the wall and across delicately to reach
jugs and a hard move out from under the roof onto the upper wall. Continue up on larger
holds. Protection adequate. Much harder for short people.
You can also
go directly out the top roof instead of across the wall (about 22), or out the loose
crack on the left (20/21).
Bruce Wilson on Future Legend
| Someone Else's Girl |
27 |
17m |
Tony Ward-Homes '93 |
|
steep, powerful and bolted - somewhat out of character
with the other routes here. Straight up the very steep wall between Future Legend and Crapbreech. 2 bolts.
| * Crapbreech |
15 |
12m |
James Jenkins '73 |
|
The overhanging off-width crack. Bridging and large jugs near
the top make this a good route. Good protection (cams #3 and up). Somewhat
more sustained since one of the big jugs at the top fell off.
| D.I.Y. |
18 |
15m |
John Allen '79 |
|
The wall to the right of Crapbreech. Start with a move to the right from the
small rib. Spaced protection. Purists can choose to stay entirely left
or right of the arête for a bit more fun.
| ** Hotlegs |
17 |
18m |
Ross Gooder '70 |
|
Climb the thin crack up through a small roof (crux), and then up to a
left facing corner. Proceed pleasantly up the corner to the top.
Good protection.
| Hot Pants |
20 |
18m |
Tony Burnell '99 |
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climb Hot Legs or Mirage for 8m, then launch over the roof and up the pillar. No gear
at the top.
| Mirage |
20 |
18m |
Lindsay Main '82 |
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Start up Hotlegs then move right and up the right-facing corner, going right past the overhang to the top.
Protection adequate, but make sure you don't miss the fixed piton
under the roof (failing to clip it nearly killed John Visser - don't let it happen to you).
Alternatively cheat and clip the bolts on Collateral Damage.
| ** Collateral Damage |
21 |
18m |
Lindsay Main '96 |
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The roof and arête between Mirage and Cat's Cradle. Start on the left, move
out to the first bolt and up over the roof (crux) to a good rest, then
move technically up the arête. Three bolts plus gear at the top, bolt+chain belay.
| Cat's Cradle |
21 |
18m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
|
Move up the smooth groove left of Garganuta and then powerfully straight up through the roof (crux) 5m up.
From the vegetated ledge climb the easier wall above and follow the crack veering rightwards. The start used
to be easier before the deacying ledge decayed.
| Gargantua |
15 |
18m |
Ross Gooder '70 |
|
The prominent gully, start from the left and swing around into the
crack (crux). Continue straight up.
Direct start from the right is 18, but probably less awkward since the good ledge on the
left fell off.
| Exposition |
17 |
18m |
Lindsay Main '73 |
|
From 5m up Gargantua move from the gully onto the right wall, following vague
cracks. 5m from the top step left and climb a
small bulge to finish. Sustained, marginal pro in the middle (RPs, microcams).
| Porno |
21 |
18m |
John Howard '79 |
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Start below the Gargantua gully. Move up and right to above the overhang and
up the wall above, finishing up the top 3m of Jambilicus. Thin/non-existent Protection.
Instead of moving in from the left, you can start directly through the roof, hard and
no pro at all, or further right still (1 bolt and even harder).
| Jambilicus |
15 |
18m |
Henry Mares '77 |
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Start just left of Nudity. Climb up about 4m, move left to the bottom of
the obvious groove (crux). The protection improves after this section!!!
Proceed up the pleasant groove and wall above. Watch out for loose or brittle
holds.
There is also a direct start through the roof (18, Gavin Tweedie '82), with no pro.
| un-named |
18 |
18m |
John Barnes |
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start as for Jambilicus, but from half-way across the traverse go
straight up over the roof, climbing the arete and left hand wall. Single
rusty bolt, some other gear possible above this. Serious.
| un-named |
20 |
18m |
John Barnes |
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From the bottom of Nudity, move left climb the thin crack and wall, then up over
the large hanging flake at the top. Single bolt shared with previous route, plus
spaced gear. Serious.
The Right End
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| J | Jambilicus |
| N | Nudity |
| MG | Moss Guard |
| GN | Great Notion |
| G | Gormenghast |
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| *** Nudity |
20 |
18m |
John Allen '77 |
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The prominent corner. Bare, but not indecently exposed. An excellent, sustained
route for those with good technique. Straight up to the top. Pro adequate - CDs
fit better than nuts (the nut placements are worn), take plenty of small cams (#0.5 and smaller).
You can make it 19 by moving out R at 2/3 height to good holds,a hands free rest and pro on ledge.
| Lickedy Splat |
22 |
18m |
Steve Elder '89 |
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Through the overhang and up the arete R of Nudity. One loose hold, handle with
care. Serious start but adequate pro after that.
| * Moss Guard |
22 |
20m |
John Allen '79 |
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Climb the overhang 3m right of Nudity, step right then trend left and up to a good
spike hold. Continue up trending left to the top. Sparse protection, very serious.
| Great Notion |
21 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '83 |
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Climb through the overhang left of Gormeghast then follow a thin crack line right and up
until near Gormenghast. Finally proceed up the upper wall. Technically not overly hard
for the grade, but sparse protection, serious.
| Gormenghast |
17 |
18m |
Lindsay Main '77 |
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The left leaning corner, climb the underhung start and easy slab to
gain the corner. Using holds on the left wall and laybacking move to
the top, finish using block and tree roots with care. Adequate
protection.
| Progressive Aging |
16 |
18m |
Joe Arts '94 |
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The overhang and wall right of Gormenghast. One bolt. A second bit up steep
slippery vegetated loose unprotected rock adds a uniquely alpine flavour...
| Bulgy Bowels |
16 |
14m |
Joe Arts '94 |
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The bulge R of the descent route. Interesting texture, and one bolt.
There's also some reasonable bouldering on the small ridge further right
towards lyttleton, including the obligatory traverse and one route. Watch out for loose rock.
| Windless |
18 |
8m |
Dean Engle (solo) '94 |
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Up the highest part of the wall of rounded holds out on the headland about 200m
south of The Tors.
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The Tors