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Moderator: Marilyn H. S. Light
Wed, 13 May, WBS 8 PM (CDT)
SPACE
FOR
MORE
ORCHIDS!!!!! Marilyn Light - Copyright 1998
All hobbyists eventually face the same dilemma. As their orchid addiction grows and acquired plants grow, the grower is faced with the enviable problem of too much plant in too little space. Help!
The problem with crowded plants, whether it be on a windowsill, in a small greenhouse or in a major conservatory, is that individual plants may become neglected or even lost amongst the tangle of pots and foliage. With insufficient light, water or even fertilizer, these crowded plants become unthrifty and may die. Worse yet, the stressed plants may become hidden foci of infection and infestation. Make space for each plant before it is too late!
How can we rationalize our burgeoning orchid collection within our given space? It may sound tempting to create a bigger growing area but expect that all that new space will soon become filled with new aquisitions. As hard as it sounds, the only way to maintain space for each orchid is to be very selective as to which specimens remain in the collection.
Here are some suggestions.
1 - Rogue plants annually or as they bloom for the first time. Keep the ones you really like, trade, sell, or otherwise dispose of those less to your taste. It is not a kindness to give away or trade hybrids producing poor quality or deformed blooms. Destroy such plants.
2 - Trade, sell or give away, plants that do not grow well under your conditions. Someone with cooler or warmer conditions may get the challenging plants to bloom.
4 - Exploit both the horizontal and vertical planes of your growing area. Try creating a vertical wire mesh rack to hold mounted orchids. Some potted specimens may grow well or even better mounted thus relieving the congestion on the bench.
5 - Give a plant room to grow. Maintain at least 3 inches breathing space around each potted or mounted plant, more space if air circulation is poor.
6 - Divide large specimens especially when the center growth becomes sparse. Give away a division or two. Then, if tragedy strikes, you can hopefully recover your favorite plant. Remember the old gardener's saying, "to save a plant, you give it away."
7 - Within any major group of orchids there are species and hybrids a bit more compact than standard size. Try collecting smaller, more compact orchids. This option will be especially useful for those moving from a large to small growing situation.
ORCHID CONSERVATION SERIES ON Orchid Safari
Present were 19: marilyninOttawa 55SS (James in Fresno ) marilyninOttawa prankster d (Susan from Oregon bmtorchids (Barbara in cod & wet California) drckw (Kay in New Jersey) bmtorchids (Barbara in cold & wet California marylois marilyninOttawa nodosa (Ed in SAT) marilyninOttawa nodosa (Ed in SAT marilyninOttawa jfall Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y.) nodosa (Ed in SAT) marylois KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif marilyninOttawa Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y prankster d (Susan from Oregon 55SS (James in Fresno ) marilyninOttawa nodosa (Ed in SAT) marilyninOttawa Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y) KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif) jfall kawacym (Jim in San Jose, Ca.) JCY8S (John in Arcadia, CA drckw (Kay in New Jersey) JCY8S (John in Arcadia, CA) [NOTE: A friend made me a couple of slug traps - the plastic bottle with
top cut off and inverted - but he used an aluminum-look metallic tape instead
of stapling - no slug would go near the bait. I've just put out five more
traps secured with staples - will report results...mlg] nodosa (Ed in SAT) marilyninOttawa KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif) marilyninOttawa JCY8S (John in Arcadia, CA) Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y.) marilyninOttawa nodosa (Ed in SAT) marilyninOttawa jfall KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif) nodosa (Ed in SAT) nodosa (Ed in SAT) marilyninOttawa kawacym (Jim in San Jose, Ca.) Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y.) nodosa (Ed in SAT) marylois marilyninOttawa kawacym (Jim in San Jose, Ca.) marylois Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y.) prankster d (Susan from Oregon) nodosa (Ed in SAT) marylois Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y.) marilyninOttawa KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif) Nodosa (Ed in SAT) marilyninOttawa marilyninOttawa kawacym (Jim in San Jose, Ca.) marylois sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida) nodosa (Ed in SAT) marylois nodosa (Ed in SAT) bmtorchids (Barbara in cold & wet California) marylois Rick Barry marilyninOttawa marylois prankster d (Susan from Oregon) nodosa (Ed in SAT) marilyninOttawa marylois nodosa (Ed in SAT) nodosa (Ed in SAT) sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida) marilyninOttawa marylois sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida) marylois bmtorchids (Barbara in cold & wet California marilyninOttawa nodosa (Ed in SAT) KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif marylois sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida marilyninOttawa KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif marylois KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif jfall (jfall) marilyninOttawa KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif bmtorchids (Barbara in cold & wet California marilyninOttawa KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif) KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif) marilyninOttawa marylois bmtorchids (Barbara) KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif Rick Barry KB Barrett (Kath in N Calif marilyninOttawa bmtorchids (Barbara in cold & wet California marylois bmtorchids (Barbara in cold & wet California marilyninOttawa marylois sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida) bmtorchids (Barbara in cold & wet California) marilyninOttawa marylois sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida marylois marylois marilyninOttawa sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida Rick Barry 30 -
drckw (Kay in New Jersey prankster d (Susan from Oregon drckw (Kay in New Jersey sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida drckw (Kay in New Jersey paulav (Paula in Boca Raton, Florida
WBS, Wed 13 May 98
PRE-DISCUSSION MAILOUT
Conservation Series with Marilyn Light
TOPIC: Space: dealing with the consequences of a burgeoning collection
TRANSCRIPT
PART 11: "Consequences of a Burgeoning Collection"
Moderator: Marilyn H. S. Light, List of Credits
WBS, Wed, 13 May 98
Marilyn
James
marylois
sparkysteve
Jane5536
JCY8S John
Nodosa Ed
206.87.90.148 (visiting)
paulav
jfall Jay
harold6820
drckw Kay
gaillevy
prankster d Susan
emddvm11
bmtorchids
KB Barrett
Peterlin
Rick Barry
I was wondering if anyone had suggestions beyond what I listed in the reading
material, regarding making space for burgeoning collections? I would like
to know how much space you allow between your plants?
Depends, sometimes 1 inch, sometimes nil... between plants or pots?
Space between plants, I am sure you realize, is space for plants to grow
and for breezes to blow. This means healthier plants!
Marilyn, I allow WAY LESS space between plants than they'd really like.
Leaves touch. A lot.
Marilyn, I do give lots of space in between my plants. I hate crowded GH.
I also do not like repot or dividing. Therefore, I have Vandas and Den.
and Phals.
My phals are growing roots all over the place; air, sides outside of the
pot. Don't you have to repot those, Barbara?
Kay, I do repot the Phals, there are the easy ones, no need to tie down.
I use the mud mix for potting, even easier.
I've put in one vertical wire screen, plus I have two that 'hang' high...darn
quonset-shaped greenhouse! I've been culling - in the summer they have breathing
space, but come winter, they'll be scrunched up again unless I drop another
hundred or so.
Vertical housing is great. Try angling the wire so that plants do not hang
one above the other. Less drip, more light too! Culling is actually one
of the most difficult tasks to accomplish. One never wants to throw anything
away.
Marilyn, we allow about 8 feet above each plant. Does that count as space?
Ed. Certainly space above plants is important especially when the plants
are grown in a enclosed area like a glasshouse or under shadecloth. Heat
does buildup beneath the cover, however permeable.
I agree with heat build-up. We have a 16 ft ridge and vents at the top.
Plant level is always as cool as we want it.
How often do you divide specimen plants? Making a big one smaller makes
space and also provides material for sharing, trading or whatever.
Marilyn, I know that you're right about regular dividing, I can't tell you
how many times I let a plant get huge and then it melts down while you're
on vacation. Actually dividing, if you have the materials to mount the plants
can be quite fun, I enjoy finding different ways to mount or pot my divisions
to see if there is a better way than I supposed first.
Whenever I get too crowded with "I must haves", I add more fans.
I love specimen plants! Rather have a CCM than an AM.
Hmmmmm...I don't divide specimens til they DEMAND it...but then, I only
have less than a dozen specimen size - or approaching specimen size. Had
a HUGE Den. Field King - gave it to Ed to give to the San Antonio Botanical
Gardens - BTW, Don Pylant of the SAT Botanical Gardens will be here on OS
soon. Have an ENORMOUS Brs. Edvah Loo out there now - 16" basket -
plant has over a three foot wing span.
Marilyn, I've been trying to grow my plants larger, to keep from getting
too many small plants. As Ed says, large plants bloom (and small plants
grow). Otherwise mine are crowded, but I do try for about 3 inches between
plants on the benchtop. and have many fans going.
Interesting approach, Jane. Have you ever tried culling plants to make more
space for new 'must haves'?
Oh yes!
I have a hard time culling. Afraid I'll hurt a plant's feelings. I have
some plants that are good quality hybrid clones, but not really my taste.
Should we plan an orchidsafari swap meet?
That sounds like a good idea, Susan
Ed. Please tell us how you judge when a specimen is ready to divide or do
you never divide, ever?
Marilyn, let's qualify this and say we're talking about a specimen plant.
Some plants are just big, Onc. altissimum, for example. I never do a massive
division on a true specimen plant. Maybe nick off a corner to share with
someone, but a huge plant with dozens of flowers is just too nice to butcher.
When we can't handle them anymore, we give them to a botanical garden or
public garden rather than cut them up.
Some plants easily attain specimen size and have a good margin of safety
while others have a very narrow margin. A few months can make the difference
between a CCM and a catastrophe.
I threw out a lot of catts--older crosses from yrs ago-but filled in the
space with minicats.
jfall, I like hanging mounted orchids too. I have a couple of small Cyms
that I've put in hanging plastic 'slip' pots and they arch quite nicely.
Also slugs can't get 'em!
Slugs are a **** eh? And what about those snails!
Hi gang, been lurking. Kathy I have seen slugs/snails in hanging cyms, they
come down the wire from overhead.
Kathy - I just read that you can stop slugs and snails by wrapping the edge
of the pot (or the wires) with teflon plumbers tape!! I think that I will
try it.
Teflon? I've heard of, and used, copper. It's working so far if the slimy
thing can't get around it.
Yes, Kay, I have heard of the copper also but this is the first mention
of the teflon tape. I think that you have to wrap it fairly wide so they
can't cross it.
Be kind to the slugs. They always identify the best plant in your collection.
Saves you a lot of consternation.
We are having unseaonably warm weather right now. Spring is one month early.
To keep my Disas happy while they are blooming, I place the plants on the
grass during the day with filtered sunlight and raise the plants for the
evening, mostly to avoid slugs. It is really cool at ground level.
I'm finding out just how inventive slugs can be, they've eaten a bud on
one of my only Cats to rebloom for me in this weather! Marilyn, I liked
the idea about giving plants away so you can be sure about another source
for it if yours ever kicks the bucket! The only way to save a plnt is to
give it away!
Thanks, Kathy. I have seen this happen quite often and it is rewarding when
you can occasionally return a piece of the plant that the original donor
has lost. I am thinking particularly of my Paph. Puddle which is part of
the plant whose flowers appear on a Barbados stamp. In the end, I was the
only one who had a living part left and was able to return the favor.
Kathy you are right about giving another person a division of your good
things. I almost lost the plant of my only AM but JUST saved it. It might
bloom again next year if I am lucky and no one else had a division.
marilyn--I think its hard to have a varied collection (we are all guilty)
because you are hunting for micro climates as well as for space & sometimes
things seem more crammed in certain areas.
You are right Jane, it is difficult to have a varied collection but with
experience, you can accommodate a range of compatible specimens. Each grower
will have a different possible range of size and type and of course, they
will also have different tastes too. I have come to realize that I succeed
with some but not all orchids. While I might not like it, I have to reduce
the collection of those which don't thrive for me to give the plants a chance
to flower elsewhere.
Marilyn, don't you love to see specimen plants of some of the really small
species? We have one of Onc. morenoi and right now it looks like a big popcorn
ball.
Ed, I was thinking of some of the plants like Masdevallias which grow quickly
to specimen size but then as quickly become vulnerable to rot. Another example
would be say Cattleya skinneri which can grow to massive specimen size.
Eventually you can no longer move it and soon after, the center is just
not as vigorous as the outer parts. I realize that with many Oncidiums,
Brassias, Vandas, Dendrobiums and Bulbophyllums, the specimen character
is more easily maintained for a log time.
I have a grammatophyllum measursianum that was in a 10 gal. pot that I divided
this spring used a saw and now have 4 giant small plants. Grammatophyllum
measursianum has 14" psuedobulbs.
I had a nice Brassia gireoudiana which bloomed nicely for me, then I divided
it and it hasn't since. I'm trying for specimen sizes now.
Marilyn, let's not excuse sloppy growing! Real specimen plants are very
hard to grow. It takes years and you can only make one mistake. Masdevallias
have their requirements but so does our C. aurantiaca. When we had B. digbyana
in a 4X4 foot size, we had all kinds of problems. There is NO easy specimen.
That's the fun of it.
Kathy, didn't someone once say big plants bloom and little plants grow?
**GG**
Good point, Ed!
Did anyone see or hear of the specimen Den speciosum that Paul Gripp exhibited
at the Santa Barbara Orchid show? It was about 6' diameter and 7' tall.
Had over 100,000 flowers on it.
[Jim, was that at SBOE? If it was the thing was HUGE - had a sign on the
sale plants saying "After 25 yrs it will look like this" - KB]
Who counted those?
My thought exactly, Jane.
Had a Cym. Lillian Stewart - everyone in SHV has a piece of it...even in
this heat it blooms religiously! Guess I never let it get that big - repot
every second year and give half - or in a good year 3/4 - away.
I agree Ed. A specimen is truly a joy to behold. It is the plant at its
most magnificent. I recently saw a Promenea xanthina awarded here in Ottawa
with I believe, 70 or more flowers surrounding the plant. It was a veritable
bouquet!
I am in process of culling my cym collection this year. Dumping small divisions
and just keeping the larger ones as I repot them.
That's a picture, Marilyn!
Wow, Marilyn - mine rotted out on me-- hated to get wet.
A few years ago, while I was on vacation, my orchid suffered badly. I salvaged
a pseudobulb or so from each and threw the rest of the plant away. There
wasn't much living to take from. Really opened up the growing space!
That's what I mean, Marilyn. I like the grand old Cattleyas with two dozen
flowers. We have a Molly Tyler in a milk crate that does that every year.
Oh, Susan! Horror story!
I once had soph coccinea with over 25 flwrs-someone wanted a piece so I
divided it for the 1st time---died faster than you could look at it.
I think that you might agree Ed, that certain clones make better specimens
than others. Part of the formula is the plant.
Marilyn, it must be fun to have a plant with a history like your 'Puddle'!
Where I am now with my collection Is trying to decide whether I want to
keep some of the eh-blah plants I bought when I was first buying orchids.
I'd pick up anything. Now I want to be a little more discriminating in my
selections, but I have all these eh-so what plants taking up room.
I do agree, Marilyn. Also, within plant groups one must carefully select
a candidate for specimen culture.
I have a Meiracyllium sp. which is not very tall but as it gets more leaves,
it produces more and better flowers on longer sprays. I cannot fathom exactly
what I am doing or not doing for it to respond so well but one thing for
certain, this is a plant that I will keep. It has specimen written all over
it.
I must admit when I had my first orchids that I would have been very reluctant
to cull any of them. I now cull mostly in the fall when extras, those that
are pretty but not to my liking, and some unbloomed seedlings, are distributed
at our first society meeting.
I know a guy who loves Draculas and Madevallias but lives where it goes
over 100 in summer, he has an air conditioned greenhouse for them.
Re greenhouse space - it's not the best of growing, but I have plastic under
my bench so I can put plants on the shelf under the bench for the winter...they
don't thrive, but they live to see another year...come summer - half go
out. Finally getting the idea I'd have a better collection if I grew fewer
plants on top of the benches. Know what you mean, Marilyn...but it's like,
grow 4-500 'normal' plants, or 25 specimens! *G*
What does cull mean??????
Boy, that's the truth, Lois. We'd all do better if we chucked the losers
and grew the winners to potential.
Like Ed just said - 'cull' means pick out the losers and chuck 'em.
Sparky - apparently cull means 'sell at a show' judging by some offerings
I've seen lately.
Marilyn, I'm with you. That's why my lower bench in my GH is half-empty.
They like the upper bench much better. So I use the lower as a sick bed.
Re space - know someone who makes a big compot from a flask and leaves the
plants there til a couple bloom - keeping just the most vigorous that pushed
the others aside.
A responsible grower should recognize that some plants should never have
survived the compot in the first place. Sometimes you should do what the
breeder should do: discard the garbage and sell what may be worth growing
in another environment.
Sparky. Cull means select from a collection of things, the ones that you
do not wish to keep. The reasons could be off type, wrong color for you,
no perfume, etc. Another term 'rogueing' is applied when we cull because
of pest suceptibility, disease, crippling or some other defect.
The day is coming when I'll face a greenhouse full of plants needing potting...then
decisions may come more easily.
Sometimes if I have extras, I use them in experiments ..Trying out new (sometimes
very novel) potting media, strange mounting surfaces, etc. Like Cyms in
pure. FRESH horse poo. (They're thriving!)
You can do good PR work with spare orchids. Put them in bloom, then take
them along when you do errands. Give one to anyone who asks aout them. We
give one to the airline girls pretty often - nobody thanks them much.
Lois, as we are now past the requiste hour presentation, may I make a comment
on potting media?
Have to admit, I haven't given away very many blooming orchids, Ed. I've
a long way to go.
Marilyn, please comment on media.
Marilyn, do you believe a happy medium is one who holds seances in a room
full of funny smelling smoke?
Ed's on a roll!!!!!
I have started experimenting with coconut media that we have for sale locally
in the form of compressed blocks called Gro Brix. You add water and you
add water.... and you end up with a very large amount of nice friable granules.
This is the matrix that lies between coconut husk fibres. Anyway, I decided
to try it with Catasetums and do they love it! Huge roots and no apparent
problem with salts although I haven't measured the salt content yet. I look
at the roots and if they keep growing into the medium something must be
right. I have tried it with a Paph. Transvaal and boy o boy, do the roots
love it. I wonder if this batch is particularly good? Any comments?
Sugar-loving roots!
Marilyn, I have used husks before and it does well, only problem is that
they only last 6-7 years before they need repotting. I need something that
lasts longer.
*chuckle*
Marilyn, I bought about 10 blocks last year, only used two. Do you mix it
with any thing else? Plastic pot or clay?
I use plastic pots and have used the stuff mixed with coarse perlite or
without. I don't think that it makes much of a difference. I will not rush
into this and pot everything using it.
Haven't tried the new stuff, Marilyn. We were disappointed with the long
fiber and also with commercial coir. Others have reported very good results
with straight fiber - it just didn't work for us.
Marilyn, 2 of the last Phals I got from Zuma Canyon were potted in chunks
of coconut husk. I'm not sure if that's coir or not. The Phals seem to love
it too. The OLD was saying that you may need to soak the salt out of plain
old husks to reduce the salts. Did everyone see the Phal mounted on a plain
old coconut in Orchids? Neat trick! I think Grove discusses it in his media
article in the 'Orchids' too.
Keep us posted, Marilyn - sounds interesting.
Coconut retains water better then treefern---not as good as bark.
I used to use husks when I lived in Barbados but the plants really did not
like it. We used it around the bases of Vandas too but the husks do need
to be replaced eventually. I haven't tried the fiber product.
Before everyone bugs out, can I ask a cymbidium question?
Ask, KB!
It seems my Cymbidiums grow new bulbs then the old bulbs drop their leaves
and go dormant. Is this typical of their life cycle? I thought the old bulbs
would retain their leaves longer. My plants look like back-bulb collections.
Kathy, Divide more and there will be less back bulbs.
What kinds of Cymbidiums do you have Kathy? My cymbidiums are grown hard
with lots of sun and water and fertilizer yet they rarely drop that many
leaves. Some leaf drop is normal, especially in winter.
Jay, that's just it, there is nothing to divide. My Cyms probably have 3-4
bulbs total in 1 gal pots. the new growth came up, flowered and now last
years bulbs are losing their leaves. I just wondered if this was normal.
Marilyn, these are both the standard and mini Cyms.
Kathy, check if they have spider mite. Other wise, too little water?
Are your plants getting enough light? Cyms drop leaves when they do not
get enough light or occasionally when they are too dry.
Barbara, they are outside in the rain, I doubt it's water, more like fertilizer,
I rarely fertilize. (Blush)
Marilyn, they are under a 50% shade cloth outside.
Kathy. I think that you should be giving them almost full sun. Mine take
full sun with impunity.
Too much water does it too, Kathy. How long since repot?
Kathy, for Cym, just put the time release fertilizer in the pot, never have
to do it weekly.
Lois, many of these have not yet filled their pots, or are newly purchased.
I last repotted 2 yrs ago. I'll try the fuller sun marilyn. More food, and
repotting. Just better care in general. They get black tips on the leaves
too.
Kathy, I grow my cyms outside here in San Jose with no problems losing leaves.
I don't think it's the environment that's causing it.
Rick, I agree, I think its my care. I didn't think Cyms should drop leaves
like that. So I gotta watch my culture.
Just before I go Kathy. Black tips on the leaves point to a salts build
up in the medium. Flush with plenty of water or better still repot with
fresh medium. Use only rainwater or deionized water when flushing.
Marilyn, I have 2 Catasetum callosum, they were good bloomers, they have
fat roots coming out of the little pots. Do they like repot or like be pot
bound?
Catasetum likes annual repotting.
I guess I best get them repot soon.
The more roots and the bigger psudobulbs, the more flowers and spikes you
will have on Catasetums. I always overpot these and I try to plan for repotting
only every two to three years. I am not yet certain what will happen with
this new (coconut granule) product and the need for repotting. My previous
experience was with medium coarse bark chips.
In fact, Gene Monnier says that in fall when leaves fall off, empty the
media from the pot and put plant in bareroot, laying pot on its side. Then
pot up fresh in spring.
Lois---a friend of mine was formerly working there---he likes Ctsms and
he doesn't do that---he just puts them aside so they don't get water and
rot.
Kathy, I'm sorry I bought the Catasetum now. I hate that.
Interesting difference in approach, Lois. Maybe it has something to do with
the different climates. I grow my Catasetums dry with my cacti during the
late winter. Then as new shoots form, I either repot, pot on (put root ball
in larger pot) or simply resume watering.
The ones I empty do better than the ones I let stay in the mix over winter....
he said this as speaker at a show some time ago.
Marilyn---I agree with you---it's the water they don't want.
Marilyn - think that's it...very damp here...
Lively evening, Marilyn - a million thanks. Gotta call it a night
Well, everyone. It is time to call it a night. I was happy to discuss orchids
with you once again and look forward to doing so again in June when we will
talk about orchids in wet situations. Good night. Thank you, Lois.
Thanks, Marilyn---standing ovation!!!!!CLAP CLAP!!!!
Thanks, Marilyn!!!!!!
PRE- POST-TOPIC OPEN CHAT
Is it time to ask dumb questions yet?
Kay, Hello. What do you grow?
I like catts, oncidiums, phals not so much, love cyms, some dends, a Colm,
a Ctna. I killed my Zygo.
Kay---the only question that's dumb is one that hasn't been asked!!!!! ASK
ASK!!!!!!!
OK, here goes. Why is my den aggregatum still look like a cactus with no
leaves?
Kay, Den. aggregatum drops most of its leaves in winter. Not to worry. You
should start seeing new growth soon though, and those will have leaves.
paulav (Paula in Boca Raton, Florida
Kay, mine has hardly grown much at all in 5 years - they grow SO SLOWLY.
marylois
Yes, Kay - that's the difference in where we live...mine is in full bloom
now - 5 spikes...but Sparky tells me his has 9! *G*
drckw (Kay in New Jersey
Paula - wow, I didn't know that. How often should it be misted?
harold6820 (Farmers Branch, TX
One of my aggregatum is just now staring to bloom. Has 40-50 blooms/buds
on it. (If I were a judge like Lois, I would count em)
marylois
Seems to me they take about five years to acclimate, then they grow a bit
faster.
sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida
Yes Lois, but all gone in less then 5 days!!!!!
marylois
Hey, Harold - students do the counting. *LOL*
marylois
Hmmmmm-mine's been open over a week...better get out there and get a photograph!
paulav (Paula in Boca Raton, Florida
Kay, if you see any signs of new growth, you can start watering it regularly
again. Some growers in Florida don't give it a winter rest, but I usually
keep mine dry from November to March. Then I hang it in bright light (almost
full sun) with the terete Vandas and mist it heavily every day.
Jane5536 (L.I. N.Y
My Den. jenkensii has driven me to drink-used to bloom --now I see the blooms
coming then poof they dry up
drckw (Kay in New Jersey
Super; I'll put it next to the vandas that get misted every morning
sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida
Kay---dont mist it---WATER HEAVILY!!!!
drckw (Kay in New Jersey
Gotcha; I can do that too. thx
jfall
I was in the Big Cypress swamp last week and saw Calopogon pallidus and
Oeclades maculata and didn't recognize them till I got home and saw them
in books, terrestrials go figure.
sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida
Jay---I saw Onc. luridum in flower!!!
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