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More than any other timepiece, the chronograph exemplifies the reason for which watches were created: to measure time. Chronographs are the instruments of the race, and what names can better summon up memories of the glories of motor sports than the old Heuer Carrera on the left or its bigger sister, the Monaco! Numerous other makes have recently entered into sponsorships, such as Omega (Michael Schumacher has his own model - yikes!), Baume et Mercier (Jacques Villeneuve), and Dugena (Heinz Halrald Frentzen). Still, when I think of racing, the classic hand-wound Carrera sticks to my mind.

It seems that whenever one thinks of or sees one Speedmaster model, four different ones pop up, just like here: models range from the showy solid gold Speedy above on the left to the popular, if cheaply glitzy automatic triple date beside it, the strange f300Hz Speedsonic with tuning fork movement to the right of it, and the superb, rare exotic Speedmaster cal. 321 with red markings to the left. I immediately felt a deep affection for this no-nonsense model, although I have come across diverse opinions from "strange" to "busy," and even "kind of sick looking!"

Today, Heuer has become TAG Heuer (giving money to Boris Becker, among others, for endorsements) and is a leading producer of noticeable Swiss sports watches and chronographs. Tracing its roots to a workshop founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer, TAG Heuer has a long tradition of technological innovation in precision timepieces, including stopwatches and water-resistant watches.

Reflecting this heritage, the TAG Heuer brand has long been closely associated with the world of competitive sports, providing official timing services for the Olympic Games, FIS Ski World Cup, FIA Formula 1 World Championship and other major international sporting events.

In addition, TAG Heuer continues winning an active following among sports enthusiasts around the world. Their re-issues of classic models from the past are by far my favorite models, presumably faithful to the style of the originals, yet modernized to contemporary standards. Still, all considered, what would you prefer? The original Mr. Cool up there on the right wearing his Heuer Monaco as it should be worn, and playing Thomas Crown as he should be played or Pierce Brosnan, Mr. Nasal Tone, trying to make everybody forget the greatness of Steve McQueen, and failing ridiculously. I must admit, I do like the Carrera re-issue by TAG, but I own a Speedmaster Professional!

Right now, we can witness two trends in chronographs: fashionable designs on one hand and better high-tech solutions on the other. In addition, chronographs continue their association with aviation and motor-sports. AVIATEX aimed at applying to the watch industry the ultra-sophisticated technology they had developed in the aeronautics industry. On their way, they innovated on many points: choice of materials, type of machining and manufacture, vacuum treatment and hardening. Their way of designing, testing and marketing watches was also new.

AVIATEX has set itself up in ultra- modern premises equipped with machines designed specially for a type of manufacture entirely new in the watch and clock industry. Watch cases and bracelet links are made of an aeronautic super alloy of unusual hardness (7x the hardness of stainless steel), which is highly scratch resistant and corrosion free, because its steel contains no more iron. With its sister company, RMD Thermique SA, Aviatex has developed a technique of vacuum treatment and hardening of the different pieces, which further improves the characteristics of this alloy and enables it to reach the exceptional hardness of approximately 50 HRC or 500 HV. Their automatic chronograph (Valjoux 7750, US$ 7700.00) is flanked by two more fashionable examples from the Italian house MOMO.

The two-pusher chronographs created by Universal Genève in the 1930s represented a breakthrough in chronograph technology. The range of Compur and Compax watches followed suit in 1936 and marked the beginning of a long series of prestigious watches. Universal Genève has been renowned for its chronographs ever since. Among the chronographs tested by NASA for the space missions was also a Universal, but it didn't make it.
To visit the Universal web site, click on either photo.

The latest version of the Compax that Universal Genève presented at the Basle fair in 1998 (picture on right) is reminiscent of its predecessors. All of the main characteristics of the original timepieces that are so appreciated by the specialists are present in the latest version: a refined case, superbly crafted dials and a fluid design. A novelty of the current version is the sapphire crystal glass as well as the new dial designs.

Recently, just about everyone got into marketing watches: Coach, Hugo Boss and Calvin Klein, pen makers Montblanc and Cross, and perhaps most astonishingly, whisky maker Johnnie Walker! Somewhat disappointingly, Leica joined the circus, with some marketing genius deciding that they needed their own line of watches and jewelry. Disappointing, because to me, they have been making the best 35mm cameras and lenses available and that should be good enough. Their watches resemble those by Braun, who at least had made alarm clocks before, and yes, they use ETA movements.

Jörg Schauer switched from architecture to watch design, in response to the growing demand for customized and well-executed watches. His specialty is hand building cases into which are fitted high-quality Swiss or other exotic and rare movements. Carved out of solid blocks of steel, gold and platinum, these cases are fashioned as one unit including the lugs. Front and back bezels undergo the same hand-treatment. His classic collection is not restricted to specific quantities, but will remain extremely limited due to the extensive labor required to produce his work. The three chronographs on the right are examples of his work.

The Ikepod Watch Company is a new Swiss watch company committed to advanced design and manufacturing values. Founded in 1994, Ikepod combines innovative and enduring design concepts with a traditionally Swiss adherence to technically advanced mechanisms. Ikepod specialises in the production of mechanical wrist watches in limited editions, which are all part of the POD brand developed in conjunction with Marc Newson, one of world's leading designers, who designs watch collections exclusively for the company.

Ikepod represents a new chapter in design for industry in the highly specialist field of watch design, one centered around the unique collaboration between an innovative Swiss manufacturer and leading edge Australian designer Marc Newson. Combining Ike the surname of the entrepreneur- with Pod, the name of Newson's successful limited edition furniture company, the new Ikepod brand is a formidable force fuelled by strong concepts, a love of innovative values in design products and a perceptive global design awareness. The Hemipode Chronograph on the left is a C.O.S.C. certified chronometer. The movement is based on a basic ETA 7750 calibre, with the date indicator at the 3 o'clock position. At the 6 o'clock position, there is a time zone indicator, which can be adjusted by means of the lower left-hand pusher. The split-seconds chronograph on the right can measure time intervals up to12 hours. The movement is based on the ETA 7750 calibre. The Hemipode Split Chronograph is limited to 99 models world-wide for each dial version: HR01 (black with silver counters) and HR02 (silver with black counters).

It probably is just a case of Teutonic pride that makes me squeeze in just one more example of German watchmaking: the Glashütte Original chrono on the left (yes, after a long, long wait, their web site is now open!). To me, it looks like Tutima meets the Royal Oak, a bit more elaborate than the Flieger examples I lined up before, but lacking the glitz of the more fashion-oriented chronos.

The YEMA automatic pilot's chronograph threatening beside, on the other hand, strangely looks to me like a bedecked version of the Sinn Fliegerchrono I like so much.

The Russians are coming! The Russians are coming! Russian attempts to market their products in the West have long been regarded with a certain amused skepticism. I remember studying their tanks with horror when I was in the West German army, then the Lada appeared in car showrooms and promptly disintegrated. I once owned a Russian 500mm mirror lens but sold it when it turned out to be useless for my Nikon equipment. Below are two chronos by the Russian Patek Philippe, called "Poljot," and one might say that they have some sort of exotic charm. Word about these watches seems to be: if you can get one of those ex-KGB marvels for under 50 Dollars, go for it!

Click on the right picture to go to the Timezone Horologium and Walt Odets's article that has hence become rather legendary (somewhat to the dismay of Rolex, I presume), called "Jessica's Cornavin Dolphin," with an illuminating and at times surprising comparison between something Russian and a Rolex Explorer: fascinating! Click on the left picture, the logo or name to go to different Poljot sites.

Page 1: hello	Page 2: nice things	Page 3: Audemars Piguet	Page 4: IWC, JLC	Page 5: Patek Philippe
Page 6: Flieger	Page 7: more Flieger	Page 8: Zenith, Eberhard	Page 9: chronographs	Page 10: big money!
Page 11: mo' money	Page 12: more chronos	Page 13: less known gems	Page 14: moonstruck	Page 15: pictures & links