Here I intend to write about my
experiences with the Clisby Metal Lathe. I am writing this from the
point of view of a rank beginner, and I will be including how-to's and
tips for doing everything from the most basic of procedures, up to
modifications and attachments I will be building. When I started I
found an extreme lack of information for beginners with this lathe, so
I decided to document my experiences in the hope that it may help
others that wish to get into this hobby!
It is a work in progress so stay tuned!
Contents
Early
Days
Making
Brassy Babe
Tailstock
Die Holder
|
25/11/2003
30/11/2003
1/12/2003
1/12/2003
2/12/2003
3/12/2003
17/12/2003
18/12/2003
|
In
the beginning!
I caught the machining bug while reading threads on the
E-Zone about making new rotor cans
for CD-ROM brushless motor conversions. I then read up about machining
and steam engines in particular. I looked around, did a lot of
research, and decided I wanted to buy the Clisby lathe. It is a tiny
metal lathe manufactured here in my home town of Adelaide, South
Australia. My reasoning for wanting this lathe was that it is low cost,
compact, yet big enough for my requirements. If I decided I didn't like
the hobby I wouldn't have needlessly spent a huge amount of money.
Purchasing
The first thing I did was order in a book from
Plough Book Sales - "The
Amateur's Lathe" by L H Sparey. While it mainly deals with the larger
7.5" lathes, many of the techniques and concepts scale well to the
Clisby lathe. I recommend it to any other beginners out there.
I then checked out a few tool stores in my area and found that I could
buy everything I needed within 5-10 min drive of my place. On the big
day I first visited my local tool store and bought:
- Dial caliper
- Dial test indicator
- Sewing machine oil
- Cutting fluid (brand name is "Tap magic")
- 3 3" long pieces of 3/16" high speed steel tool bit stock
Next I ventured a bit further down the road to the Clisby factory,
where I met Orville Clisby and purchased the following:
- Clisby long bed metal lathe
- Large tailstock chuck
- 1/8" centre drill
In total I spent $450 Australian. Here is a picture showing my
purchases sitting on my desk:
Mounting
After thoroughly reading the manual several times I set about mounting
it. A quick rummage through my shed discovered a nice 1/2" thick piece
of laminex coated wood. I pulled out the jigsaw, made it look a bit
neater, and sanded the edges. I marked out for the mounting holes and
drilled these. I countersunk them on the underside. Finding that I had
no suitable bolts for mounting I drove to the hardware store and bought
these. While I was there I also purchased some safety glasses (VERY
important! Don't try machining without a decent pair) and some nice
looking brass bolts to practice on.
Mounting was a reasonably simple affair. I used cardboard as packing
under the feet, and put the bolts through from the underneath. These
needed to be shortened, and I had to remove the motor to be able to
tighten them. The pair at the headstock end were tightened all the way,
and the pair at the tailstock end were left finger tight. This is to
prevent distortion of the bed.
First
snag
I then noticed that the saddle leadscrew would not rotate! No matter
what I did, I could not get it to turn. I thought about this for a
while, and eventually undid the screw holding the handle to the bed (on
the inside of the tailstock end of the bed) and removed the leadscrew
totally. I held the section thats meant to be stationary in my vice and
applied a large force to the handle - I heard a sharp cracking sound
and the leadscrew started to rotate. After finding out more about how
these lathes are constructed I'm now pretty sure that during assembly
some of the loctite used to hold the handles together managed to get
into the gap between the handle and the stationary part. Anyway, I
oiled it liberally and worked it back and forth for a few minutes,
clearing the gunk that came out of the gap. Its still a little stiff
but it works great - its only a pain if I'm winding the saddle from one
end of the bed to the other. I reassembled it all and decided it was
time to give it a shot!
First
cuts
I used an F-clamp to hold it to the bench a little more firmly and dug
out my power supply. I'm using an old PC power supply I pulled out of a
486. I found the +12V and ground wires, hooked it up to the lathe and
plugged it into the wall. I put some oil in the oiler hole and oiled
the leadscrews. On went the power, and I flicked the switch while
holding my breath. It ran! With a big grin on my face I decided it was
time to take some test cuts. I grabbed one of the brass bolts and put
it in the chuck. I spun the chuck a few times by hand checking to see
how true it was running and to my amazement it was pretty much perfect.
I got lucky - its not normally this easy with a 4-jaw chuck! I donned
my safety glasses and positioned the tool to take a very shallow first
cut on the head of the bolt. I flicked on the power and slowly advanced
the saddle towards the chuck. My first cut barely skimmed it and took
off very little metal. I wound it back again and wound the cross slide
further in. This time I took off a little bit more metal. Chips of
brass went flying. I was making chips! I proceeded to turn the head of
the bolt down to half its original diameter and then faced it too.
There we have it! I'd taken my first tentative steps into the all new
realm of hobby machining. Stay tuned for more!
Back to the index
Centring work, basic techniques and
cutting steel
Centring
work
Rotor cans for brushless outrunners (eg CD ROM motors) require
steel outsides to reduce losses. This meant I had to machine steel with
my little lathe. I found some galvanised tube at the scrapyard of a
suitable inner and outer diameter to be a starting point. I hacked off
a section and chucked this in my lathe. A few minutes with the dial
indicator had it centred. Below is a photo of my setup for doing this.
I use a "helping hands" device to hold the back of the dial test
indicator, positioned in such a way that the end is perpendicular to
the surface of the work, under tension. This means that when I rotate
the chuck (by hand! Do not switch on with the indicator in place!) I
can see the needle move either to the left or right showing deflection.
I can then adjust the jaws to shift the work in the required direction
to centre it. Once satisfied with the placement I tighten the jaws (do
not over-tighten them - you can damage the jaws) and check the centring
once more. I then put the indicator away to avoid damaging it while
turning.
Note - due to the large diamater of this workpiece I gripped it using
the ouside of the jaws on the inner diameter of the pipe rather than
the inside of the jaws on the outside of the work. Otherwise the jaws
need to be reversed and the saddle cannot be traversed all the way
under the chuck as the jaws will strike it (I found this out the hard
way).
Facing
and steel turning tools
Now that the work is set up, it is time to set up the tool. I found
that the easiest method to machine steel on this lathe is to use an
*extremely* sharp bit. Grind it until it is as sharp as you can get it.
Put it back in the toolpost with only the minimum amount out the front
as possible - this reduces possible flex and stresses on the machine to
a minimum. I start by setting the tool at a 45 degree angle for facing
the work. As I use a right hand bit (for cutting towards the chuck) I
face from the centre out. I have tried it both ways and I find this
easier. Move the tool bit to the centre (in the case of my pipe I move
it to just past the inner diameter), switch on, and take a very light
cut outwards. Wind back to the start of the cut, advance the saddle a
few thou and take another light cut. With steel it helps to put some
cutting fluid on the work and tool bit. Take it slowly, be patient, and
you'll be rewarded with a nice finish. Continue this way until the
entire surface has been machined flat. The surface has now been faced!
Turning
an outer diameter
Time to machine the outer diameter of the pipe. Start by setting the
tool just beyond the end and just outside the outer diameter. Switch
on, and advance the tool slowly towards the chuck. It should barely
skim the work. Return to the end, and advance the cross slide by 2 or 3
thou. This is very important with steel as taking deeper cuts than this
will most probably stall the motor. Again traverse the work slowly, and
hopefully you will take off more material. Continue this process until
the work has been trued - this means that the entirety of the outside
has been machined. You can then continue turning the diameter down
until you have reached your target diameter. You will find that keeping
the workpiece and tool bit lubricated with cutting fluid will make the
process easier and the cuts cleaner. Make sure to regularly oil the
headstock and clear chips from the ways. This is very important as
steel chips will damage the ways if left there. Taking these
precautions should hopefully result in a long life of your machine.
Turning
an inner diameter
With the outside diameter turned it is now time to turn the inside
diameter! This requires a boring tool. These are tricky to grind, but
the pictures available at
this site should help
(thanks Mark!). I do this just like the outer diameter but starting
from the inside and working towards myself. Take shallower cuts, and
sometimes it pays to repeat cuts on the same setting - this accounts
for spring in the tool. Work your way out until the inner diameter has
reached its target.
Thats all for tonight folks, check back later for more news.
Back to the index
First steps towards a
Brassy Babe!
When I was researching steam engines, I fell in love with one in
particular -
Brassy
Babe, a single acting wobbler designed by Dave Goodfellow. The
plans are available
here.
Due to limitations of the equipment I have I will be making a few
modifications, including making it a 2-piece frame. I will also find
some way to eliminate the need for milling the piston. Today I finally
found a source for brass and aluminium round, and bought some 1 1/4"
brass round. I hacked off a piece and put it in my lathe. To do this I
reversed the jaws and used the inner set of grips. After centring it I
faced it and then set about making a depression - purely for the sake
of looks. This was achieved by starting a cut about 3mm out from the
centre of the face and ending it about 4-5 mm in from the outside. I
returned the tool to near the start and wound it a bit deeper. First I
backed it up to the edge of the first cut (you can hear the lathe start
struggling when you've reached it) and then I wound it to the edge of
the second cut (again, the lathe starts to struggle at this point). I
kept doing this until I was satisfied with the depth. If you set your
tool at a 45 degree angle like I did then you'll end up with a nice
taper between the high and low levels.
Drilling
This is the method I used to drill the 1/8" centre hole. I'm not sure
if this is the best way to do it or not, but it turned out farbetter
than my previous experiments with drilling did.
I removed the chuck from the lathe and wiped down a clean, flat spot
for me to set it down. I located the centre of the wheel and centre
punched it lightly (so as not to put much strain on the chuck). I then
put the chuck back on the lathe, mounted the Jacobs chuck in the
tailstock, and put the centre drill in the chuck. I pushed the
tailstock up close to the work and locked it in place. On went the
power and I gently rotated the tailstock handwheel - advancing the
poppet and drill. The centre drill immediately found the point I had
centre punched and drilled into it. After allowing the taper of the
drill to enlarge the hole a little I swapped the drill to a 1/16" bit.
This requires you to go slowly and patiently. I lubricated the drill
bit with cutting fluid which seemed to smooth things a long a bit.
Every now and again I retracted the bit and cleared the brass chips
from the bit, lubricated it again, and kept drilling. When it got to
the point where the poppet was extended quite a long way I retracted
it, shifted the tailstock closer to the chuck (so that the bit started
inside the workpiece) and continued drilling. Eventually I was rewarded
with the sound of the motor unloading as I broke through the other
side. I replaced the drill with a 3/32" bit and drilled through again.
I repeated this until I had drilled through with a 1/8" bit.
Finishing
I faced the front lightly again to remove the lip that the drilling had
left behind. To finish this side off I held a file to the outer edge to
bevel it slightly, and then held sandpaper to the wheel where it had
been machined. I then reversed the paper and used the non-abrasive side
to polish it slightly. While it is still possible to see tool marks, it
is quite shiny and feels extremely smooth. A good enough finish for my
first project I thought, so I moved on. I loosened two jaws ever so
slightly, flipped the wheel around and tightened the jaws again. A
quick facing cut and some filing and sanding had the job completed!
Heres what I ended up with:
I'm quite proud of how well this part turned out, and barring unforseen
difficulties this should make it into the final engine. Next up? The
piston! Stay tuned for more, hopefully I will complete the piston
tonight.
Back to the index
A
Brassy piston!
Pistons pistons pistons! The plan calls for a 3/16" diameter brass
piston, but I didn't feel like turning down a huge slice of the brass
round I bought to something that small, so I dug out one of the brass
bolts I had experimented with. Into the lathe it went, and I started
turning the threads off when I noticed that I was getting some flex.
This makes sense as the bolt was long and thin.
Turning
a long thin shaft
I rechucked it with the head of the bolt only just beyond the chuck
jaws and faced off the socket for the screwdriver. I then centre
drilled it, and gripped the very end of the bolt in the jaws, with the
dead centre in the centre hole I'd made. I locked the tailstock and
wound the poppet forwards until it was a firm fit and then locked the
poppet. I switched the lathe on and noticed it was running a lot slower
than usual - a drop of oil on the dead centre fixed this. I proceeded
to turn it down until the threads were gone and measured it - 0.175"!
Too thin for a 3/16" piston. I quickly took stock of my selection of
drill bits (quite a few missing, I need to buy a new set) and found
that the next smallest bit I had was 1/8". I thought about this and
decided I might as well try to modify the design for a 1/8" bore. I
don't know how well it will work but I can always build a new one if it
doesn't run - it will be a good exercise in machining.
Anyway, I finished the rod by holding sandpaper to it and then a rag.
It is reasonably smooth now.
Parting off to length
My nice 1/8" shaft turned out to be 2" long and I only wanted a
1.6" length. I didn't want to hacksaw it off, so I ground up a parting
tool and used that! At the point it has a width of about 1.5mm and it
tapers in slightly at the sides and front to give clearance. I set it
up so the tool just poked out of the toolpost, and the point to be
cut was barely clear of the chuck jaws. I very very slowly
advanced the bit into the workpiece at the point to be cut, using
cutting fluid. Moving slowly this took a nice square cut out of the
piston. The remaining material got thinner and thinner until only a
thin spigot was left, which then broke and the leftover dropped gently
to the cross slide. It left a nice flat face on the cut piece, with a
small bump that was easy to file off.
Drilling
the crank pin hole
Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of this stage, as it may be
hard to explain. First of all I marked the rod where the crank pin hole
had to be. I laid the rod flat across the face of the chuck (jaws
loosened quite a way) so that it was approximately centred. I then
tightened two jaws on one side of the rod so that they formed a
horizontal platform to rest the rod against. I tightened the other two
up so they nearly gripped the rod, but still allowed me to shift it.
Dead centre went into the tailstock, and this was brought up to the
workpiece and the tailstock locked so that I could see where the centre
of the work was. I adjusted the rod's position and the jaws until the
dead centre was in line with where the crank pin hole needed to be,
tightened the jaws up, and replaced the dead centre with the centre
drill. On went the lathe, and I started the hole with the centre drill.
I then used a 1/16" bit to finish the hole all the way through.
Finishing
The plans call for one or both side/s of the piston to be milled
flat to allow clearance for the crank disc, however I do not have any
milling capabilities just yet. To do this I put the piston lightly in
my vice so that it was reasonably square and filed it flat. I haven't
filed it much yet, as I need to draw up the engine in CAD first to
determine exactly how much filing I need to do.
Heres the finished product with the flywheel and a rule to give some
scale:
It looks tiny next to the flywheel,
and with the reduced power from the smaller piston I'll be surprised if
it can spin such a heavy flywheel, but then again I've never built one
of these things before so I'm just going to try it and see what
happens! If it doesn't work it'll be a good learning experience.
Whats next you ask? Either the cylinder block or the crankshaft. It
depends what pieces of scrap I have lying around to use. I may even cut
a round of aluminium, face it, make a couple of parallel cuts on it,
face those, and then face the ends to make an aluminium cylinder block.
I will probably adapt the screw size to suit ones I have pulled out of
old toys etc.
Back to the index
After consulting Dave about the suitability of my 1/8" piston, I used
Autocad to draw up a new cylinder based on the materials I had
available. I have plenty of 1/4" aluminium plate so I decided to use
that. I ended up with a piece 1" * 1/4" * 5/16". I hacked this chunk
off and filed it roughly to shape, and then carefully filed the
appropriate side perfectly flat. I marked out and centre punched the
bore, and located it in my chuck. This was quite difficult to grip
well, but I ended up with the end of a jaw on each of the four sides.
Centre drilled the punch mark, and then drilled it, slowly increasing
the bit size until I had drilled it 1/8". To get the correct depth I
wrapped a piece of masking tape around the bit where I needed to stop.
Then I tried inserting the piston into the bore and found it wouldn't
go in very far! I'd machined the piston *slightly* oversize, so this
didn't come as a surprise.
Crude
lapping
To overcome this I put the piston in the Jacobs chuck, coated it with
cutting fluid, turned the lathe on and advanced it into the bore. I was
soon able to put it all the way in. I then unlocked the tailstock and
slid the piston in and out of the bore with the lathe on, simulating
the motion of the piston in action. After stopping the lathe I found
that I could easily move the piston in the cylinder and that there was
little to no side to side play in the motion. I guess this was a
primitive lapping technique - to truly lap it I would've used an
abrasive compound.
Final
steps
Once I was satisfied with the fit of the piston in the cylinder I
marked out the pivot and air holes and centre punched them. I then set
it up in the chuck similarly to how I set up the piston, centre drilled
and then drilled through with a 1/16" bit. I made sure to only go
halfway through by regularly stopping and looking down the bore to see
if I'd broken through. I was quite pleased with the depth of the bore
and positioning of the air hole, as the bit cut a depression in the
bottom of the bore - just as planned. I was able to wash the swarf out
of the holes by pouring water into the 1/16" holes.
Heres a group photo of the parts so far:
Out of interest I just loaded the piston into the cylinder, sealed my
lips around the end and blew into the air hole - the piston shot out of
the end. I'm pretty happy with the fit of these two parts at the moment!
Next job? Probably the frame. The end is in sight! Only another 2 parts
to make. I've probably spent about 9 hours so far on this engine, but
most of that has been thinking about techniques. I could probably build
another one in half that time or less, especially if I had some better
drill bits. I might have to splash out for a nice set...
This is great fun :)
Back to the index
Crankin!
I decided to make the crankshaft today. I didn't have any 5/8" stock,
so I took my 1 1/4" bar, took a 0.7" slice off it, and then took chunks
off the sidea of that slice until I had a roughly 0.7" square * 1 1/4"
bar. The ends were curved, so I filed one of them to be mostly flat so
that the chuck would hold it better. I also flattened the areas to be
gripped. I put this in the chuck, roughly centred, and started turning
it down. I had to proceed very very slowly otherwise the work would
slip in the chuck. To fix this, I centre drilled the end and supported
it with the dead centre. This enabled me to take cuts 10 thou deep, so
I took a lot of material off very quickly. Once the outside (as much as
protruded from the jaws) was trued, I turned it around in the chuck and
trued the part that had previously been gripped by the jaws. Mmm, a
home-made 0.65" round bar. Now it was time to turn this into a
crankshaft!
First up I faced the end of the bar and turned it down to a diameter of
0.55". Note I was still supporting the work with the dead centre, so I
couldn't machine the entire face. Next I started to work on the 0.25"
diameter - to do this I started removing material along the whole bar
excepting the 1/16" at the very end. I went to a depth of about 0.35"
with the right hand tool, meaning I had a taper down to it from the end
(due to the clearance angle on the bit). I decided that it would be
best to drill the crank pin hole before I'd removed too much material,
so I offset the piece in the chuck so that a point on the correct
diameter was at the centre of rotation. I then centre drilled this and
ran it through with a 1/16" bit. During this time there was a lot of
vibration due to imbalance in the chuck - I just clamped everything
down really well and tried to minimise running time in this situation.
after drilling I centred the piece on the original centre, supported it
with the dead centre again, and turned the bar down to 0.25" using the
right hand tool. I ground up a left hand tool and took this diameter
all the way up to the 1/16" thick crank disc. I swapped back to the
right hand tool and turned the majority of the shaft to 1/8", changed
to the left hand tool and finished the shaft off. I changed to the
parting tool and parted it off to length. Almost done! I filed off the
little spigot left from the parting tool, and centred the crankshaft in
the chuck. I faced the crank disc to remove the part the dead centre
rested in. I used some wet and dry sandpaper (moist) on the end to
finish it. There we have it, one complete crankshaft! The amount of
brass shavings I made today was phenomenal...
Here are the parts so far:
Just the frame left to fabricate now - this will require some thought
and probably major modifications to make it with my equipment (ie, the
lathe and hand tools). With a drill press it would be pretty
straightforward. I'm currently thinking that my frame will look
radically different to Dave's. The jury's out as to whether thats a
good thing or a bad thing ;)
Stay tuned!
Back to the index
Taper Turning 101
Its been a while between updates, I've been a bit busy with a new job
and all but I have still been playing around with my lathe. Brassy Babe
has gone on the backburner for a while, as I'm having trouble figuring
out how to make the frame using my equipment - it may have to wait
until I'm set up for drilling on the cross slide. I have collected a
few sewing machine motors, but I'm yet to buy the pulley and find a
belt to complete the motor upgrade. This may wait until after Christmas
as my probable belt supplier will be pretty busy until after then. I've
been playing some more with turning CD motor rotors, and made one from
aluminium into which the original (slightly distorted and off centre)
can was pressed. This worked ok for a little while, but the magnets
themselves were damaged, so my next rotor turning experiment will
probably involve Neodymium magnets and a strip of steel glued to the
inside of a thin aluminium can. This will probably thread onto a
standard GWS shaft (M3*0.5). To play around with threading I bought an
M3*0.5 taper tap, plus a die and drill bit (2.5mm) to match. I threaded
a couple of holes by hand and decided I would make a tailstock die
holder similar to that described in LH Sparey's book. So I had to
figure out how to turn a taper to match the tailstock's Morse 0 taper.
I played around a bit and came up with the technique described below.
I selected an old printer shaft I had laying around in the shed and
hacked off a section about 1.3" long. I turned about 0.92" of this down
to approx .305" diameter, and then turned a series of steps, 1/8" apart
and reducing in diameter by 0.007" each time. The diagram below shows
this, in case my descriptions didn't help you:
The second step was to hold a file to this as the work rotates. Be
patient with this, it will take a while but the result (in my case) was
perfect. On my next one of these I intend to take the steps even finer
to minimise filing required.
Happy with the taper I'd produced I moved onto the next part - the
holder itself. I then realised that I'd made the shaft *much* too
short, so rather than make a new one I ended up drilling a 1/8" hole
into the taper, turning a 1/8" spigot onto the end of an extra length
of shaft, and press fitting them together by fitting the taper to the
tailstock and using the handwheel to screw it onto the extra shaft. I
do NOT recommend this method as it was a major pain and it would have
been quicker to make a new taper. The resultant shaft is also much
weaker. I took a few cuts along the length to make sure everything was
true and put this aside. I must say, I quite enjoy working with this
steel as it machines cleanly, easily, and by setting the tool to "rub"
I've found I can achieve an *excellent* finish. Below is a diagram of
the final dimensions of my shaft. The maximum diameter is not critical,
as long as your die holder barrel hole matches it.
I've started turning the barrel, but more on that next time...
Back to the index
First Accessory
Complete
Right, onto the barrel! It started out as a chunk of 1 1/4" aluminium,
about 1 3/4" long, faced on both ends. I roughly centred it (by eye),
and bored the inner diameter for the die (in this case a 25mm diameter
metric die). To do this I did facing style cuts to a smaller diameter
until I was down to the depth I desired, then normal cuts along the ID
until the die slipped in nicely without play. Next task was the hole
through the centre for the shaft to slip into. I drilled through with
every bit I had up to the one just smaller than 1/4" (the capacity of
the large chuck) and then ground a long boring tool. This was hard
work, but I finished up with a tool capable of moving through a hole of
that size, almost 2" deep. This was bolted into the toolpost and I
started enlarging the centre hole. This was slow going due to the
spring of the tool, so each cut had to be taken several times to "work
out" the spring. When the diameter got close I started checking it
regularly by trying to fit the shaft into the hole. Eventually
everything was a good slip fit, so I trued the outside diameter
of the barrel to some distance back (in case I decide to do more work
on it later this will provide a good reference point for the indicator)
and removed it from the chuck.
Next job was to drill the holes. To assist with marking out I coated
the front face and the outside with nail polish. I marked a centreline
on the face, and used a square to continue this back along the barrel.
I then marked the depths for the holding screw holes and the tommy bar
holes. This went into my vice, the hole marks were centre punched, and
drilled with a big hand drill (I do not have a drill press). I then
hand tapped the two holding screw holes. After cleaning off the nail
polish, it was done! After digging up some M3 screws it was testing
time :)
I turned down a brass bolt to 3mm diameter, fixed my M3*0.5 die into
the holder, plugged the shaft into the tailstock and slid the holder
onto the shaft. I found starting the thread pretty difficult (a chamfer
on the end of the item to be threaded will probably help this a lot)
but once it was started it was simple to thread the whole shaft. With
the tommy bar (I use a .16" steel rod from a floppy drive) in a hole
and the chuck key in one of the screws, I rotated the chuck towards me
and the holder away from me. This process was repeated and the thread
completed. Apart from starting the thread this process seems pretty
simple and straightforward. I need to do some more experimenting though.
Below are pictures of the parts and the complete attachment, along with
the first item I threaded with it.
This was a pretty easy accessory to make and looks like it will be very
useful in the future. Now, I made mine to fit 25mm die, but I'm
thinking about boring the other end to suit the 1" die size. This will
enable me to simply swap which end I use. This part of the attachment
enough is simple enough that a CAD diagram shouldn't be needed, but if
theres enough demand I'll draw up the whole thing and post it on here.
Now to decide what to build next.... any suggestions?
Back to the index
Home
E-mail me if you
have any questions or comments!
I take no responsibility for any damage caused to people, animals, or
property by following the procedures I've described on this page. I'm
by no means an expert so I'm just describing what I've done, not the
perfect way to do them!
Copyright 2003, Tristan Williams