S/V Tethys Mexico, Baja
November, December 1999
After 3 days in the ocean sailing in 35 knot winds from Isla Guadeloupe, it was very exciting, and a relief, to see mainland Mexico show up at the crack of dawn. Bahia Santa Maria was our first warm, sunny, and quiet anchorage in Mexico and we stayed for six days. Six boats (5 Canadian, 1 American host) celebrated American Thanksgiving aboard AEVENTYR with a turkey and all the trimmings.
Cabo San Lucas rocks (8518 bytes) Six days later, well rested, we sailed to Bahia Magdalena. Stayed in Mag Bay only for a couple of days before leaving for an overnight passage to Cabo San Lucas on the tip of Baja.We did not go ashore in Cabo, but left at the crack of dawn the following day for Los Frailes anchorage 40 miles up the coast of Baja on the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortes). The wind picked up late morning to a strong northerly with short choppy seas that made for a very uncomfortable passage.
Continuing north towards La Paz we stopped for one night in Ensenada de los Muertos and one in Puerto Balandra bay. Puerto Balandra (11 miles from La Paz) seemed a nice calm anchorage when we arrived in the afternoon, but turned into the anchorage from hell that night. The winds increased from the north and a heavy ground swell came into the anchorage. At first light we (and every other boat in the anchorage) up-anchored and got into La Paz by 0900.
La Paz is a port of entry and so we had to clear in with Migracion, Port Administration, and Port Captain. Migracion required clearance papers from Mag Bay, a receipt from a bank for a tourist visa fee, the visas we picked up in San Diego and passports. They forgot to stamp the three copies of the clearance papers and we walked two miles to the Port Captain before finding out that our papers were incomplete. It took us four hours, and several miles of walking before we got properly cleared in.

We stayed in La Paz thru Christmas, shopping, sightseeing, getting used to Mexican ways, visiting with fellow cruisers including several Canadian boats and generally hangin' out, as they say. The local museum was interesting, however our Spanish is too rudimentery to understand all the explanations. The Aztec calendar was brought here from a long way!

mexico_calendar.jpg (11321 bytes)

Christmas in La Paz was celebrated with several friends we made along the way. The crews of CHIQUITICA, SHADOWFAX, TETHYS, WHITESHELL and YEHUDI had turkey dinner aboard WOLF WILLOW.  

New Years eve was spent in Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida with WHITESHELL, YEHUDI, and WOLF WILLOW . At about 8:00 P.M. local time we met at the beach, lit a campfire, and started celebrating by toasting Newfoundland's entry into 2000 at 8:30 P.M. local time. We returned to WHITESHELL just before midnight to open the bubbly and continued toasting Y2K arrival in each North American time zone ending with B.C. at 1:00 A.M.local time. The plan for the next day was to meet on the beach at noon and have a polar bear swim. Well, nobody showed up. It took a while for any of us to start functioning properly.
It was time to move on. Crossing the Sea of Cortez and cruising the West coast of Mexico from Isla Isabela to Tenacatita.
Charts Journals Ocean Voyages Cruising Tips Photos Tethys Yours truly Links Home Page
1