nzflag(1).gif (9615 bytes)        S/V TETHYS

Touring New Zealand by Car
December 2000, February, March 2001

Buller Gorge Gorgeous Gorge
Highway 6 from Westport to Nelson follows the Buller River through Buller Gorge, considered one of the most scenic gorge drives in New Zealand. And it is quite scenic, although not as spectacular as the Alps, as the road winds its way along the edge of the river. The road is narrow and several times turns into one lane.

A GIVE WAY sign with arrows shows which direction has to stop if there is traffic coming. The problem is seeing the oncoming traffic. We stopped so that Vlad could take a picture of the sign and road.

give way sign  (17063 bytes)
Buller gorge half tunnel  (11165 bytes) In this case the road narrowed to pass under this half tunnel. The half tunnel was built at the end of the 19th century, by men with shovels and picks, has survived earthquakes and floods in its long life.

The road curves at both ends so it is very difficult to see approaching traffic. You just hope that the other fellow is as careful as you are.

We stopped at the gold town site of Lyell for a walk and lunch. Following old miner tracks and a dram road we walked through a beech forest bordering Lyell Creek. A hundred years ago three thousand lived in Lyell, a bustling town with 5 hotels, 2 banks, 2 churches, post office, newspaper, school, police station, brewery and courthouse. Nothing is left of the town. The buildings had either been dismantled or burned down and the rest was overgrown by brush and forest.
The cemetery is still visible among the beech trees. Someone keeps it cleared

Lyell cemetary  (19682 bytes)

dram track (12690 bytes)
Our destination was a stamp battery used to crush the quartz rock to extract gold. The battery stands at the side of the creek as it was left 100 years ago. It is slowly decaying, covered in mosses and lichens, and iron parts rusting away.

Other than the battery and cemetery we did not see any other recognizable remnants of human occupancy.

battery  (21555 bytes)

Fantail (12956 bytes)

black phase fantail (10480 bytes)

Fantails flittered around us at several places along the track. On the left is the common plumage and on the right a black phase.
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