nzflag(1).gif (9615 bytes)        S/V TETHYS

Touring New Zealand by Car
December 2000, February, March 2001

Doubtful Sound
We wanted to see at least one of the famous Fiordland Sounds and chose to spend a lot of money for an entire day of touring by boat and bus.

When Cook named this fiord Doubtful Sound he was mistaken in two ways. Firstly this is a fiord because it is carved out by glacier. Sounds are carved out by rivers. Second he was doubtful that he could sail into the sound. Several years laters Malespina sailed into the sound and charted it for the Spaniards.

Doubtful Sound mountain view (6143 bytes)
Morning fog (8669 bytes) The morning boat ride across Lake Manapouri started out a bit foggy. But as we progressed across the 15 mile long lake the mist rose and the surrounding mountains were revealed.

After the 60 minute crossing we arrived at the Manapouri Generating Station docks and boarded busses for the roadtrip over Wilmot Pass to Doubtful Sound.

The road to Wilmot Pass was built to service the building of the Manapouri Power Station. Fortunately the gravel road will remain to take tourists to the head of Doubtful Sound. Otherwise an uncomforatble, and distant, sea voyage from Invercargil or Milford Sound would be necessary to see this beautiful sound.

Moss covered mountain beech trees line the road until just below the pass. At the pass the windy weather and drier conditions stunt the trees and make it imposible for them to survive.

Mountain view on way up to pass (9153 bytes)
Sound view from Wilmot Pass (9935 bytes) From a view point at Wilmot Pass, Doubtful Sound is visible as it winds it way between the mountains to the Tasman Sea.

Wilmot Pass is about 600 metres above sea level and the gravel road descends in a series of switchback curves down the westrn slope. The bus driver went very slowly as we made our way down. Fortunately we only net one tandem dump truck along the way that  was safely tucked in a layby.

Once safely aboard the second boat of the day we were off to see the sights of the sound. It had been fairly dry for the previous two weeks and many waterfalls were thin. However this one peeked out from the thick forests along the shores. waterfall (15058 bytes)
surfing dolphin (10897 bytes) A school of dolphins feeding along the way decided to have some fun in the wake. Two dolphins managed to swim in the wake as we sped off at 20 knots.
It took about one and a half hours to reach the Tasman Sea. There is an island at the mouth of the sound and it is easy to see why Captain Cook thought he may have prblems sailing in and out of the narrows. There are many rocks around as well. view from narrows (6809 bytes)
fur seal colony (9226 bytes) A large fur seal colony calls the rocky islands home. Most of the animals we saw were young seal pups. The parents had already gone to their winter fishing grounds.
On the way back to the Manapouri Generating Station docks we were taken into the tunnel leading to the turbine room 200 metres below the lake. The 2Km spiral tunnel, only just narrow enough to allow two busses to pass by, was blasted out of solid rock. There are only a few places were reinforcement is required. This was a tense time for us as we do not like to be enclosed in either caves or tunnels. However, we did want to see the generating station. Manapouri tunnel (11902 bytes)
Manapouri turbine room (13669 bytes) At the bottom of the tunnel we walked about 100 meters to a viewing platform overlooking the turbines. This is a cavernous room, brightly lit, filled with the sound of water rushing in the distance.
Two hundres metres above the water intake directs Lake Manapouri water down tunnels to each of the 7 turbines. The tailrace for some reason does not allow water to flow freely and ony 5 of the turbines can operate at a time. This is being corrected with a new tailrace tunnel running parallel to the old one.

The power generated here is used at the aluminum smelter at Bluff.

Manapouri generating station (9233 bytes)
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