THE HIGHLANDS OF CHIAPAS (5)
All around San Cristobal
are the villages of the
Tzotzil Mayas. These
people are among the most
traditional in Mexico.
They speak the Tzotzil
language (Spanish is a
second language for them)
and wear the colorful garb
which identifies their
village. They are nominally
Catholic, but in fact they
follow ancient, Mayan
beliefs with a thin,
Christian veneer.


The Chamulans are a tribe of some 40,000 Tzotzil Mayas. Their principal village is San Juan Chamula, a few miles by paved road from San Cristobal.
 


Like most Mexican towns, San Juan Chamula's main church faces the village square. But San Juan Chamula is NOT your typical Mexican town.
 


The decoration around the church entrance shows native influence.
 


Photography is strictly prohibited inside the church. The atmosphere inside is eerie, otherworldly, and completely alien...as if you had entered an entirely different time and place. There are no pews. Pine boughs are strewn about the floor, and dozens of flickering candles have been placed on the floor by worshippers. (Is it any wonder that Chamula's other church burned down?) The Chamulans kneel on the floor and pray incessantly, chanting in their Mayan tongue. They drink alternately from bottles of Pepsi and "posh," their homemade liquor, so that they may expel evil spirits by belching. This may be a Christian church...but the rites derive from their ancient Mayan ancestors.
 

1