Kala Bhairab shrine in Kathmandu

Before I could begin my trekking, I had to queue up for half a day to get the necessary paperwork. When you enter Nepal, the visa is only valid for the central area. To walk along the trails, a permit is needed. Most of my possessions were locked in my rucksack and stored in Kathmandu at the hotel I was staying at.

I'd hired a pack to take with me. In this pack I had camera gear, film, short wave radio (for the football, of course), first aid kit, down jacket, sleeping bag, washing gear, clothes, raincoat, toilet paper, goggles, some nibbles, towel, writing implements and diary, map, trekking guide, hat, gloves and my trusty ex-Chinese Army water bottle. My pack felt heavy when I picked it up. It looked like I was going to get fit!

Slept from 9pm to 4am. It was an early start because I had a bus to catch. Before you can walk, you must ride. I walked to the bus station in 20 minutes. The bus was packed with locals and a few Westerners and their guides. I didn't have a guide. For two hours we drove along the Friendship Highway towards the Tibetan border. After 100km, we turned east. The final 125km of the journey took 10 hours. The road was narrow, in bad condition and the route was up and down all the way. The scenery was beautiful with orange and white Chhetri houses, wooden Brahmin houses, rice terraces, forests and sparkling white rivers. Clouds kept the mountains invisible. We arrived at Jiri (1860m), the end of the road, at 5:30pm. The rain arrived at the same time!

Jiri - end of the road - beginning of the trail

Accommodation was in a four bed room in the nearest lodge to where the bus stopped. My companions were Kipper (?) from Somerset, Chris (Bristol), and Simon (Sydney). It poured outside as we ate supper at the lodge. So far, so good. We had good food, electricity, comfortable beds, and clean toilets (outside). We were in Sherpa country - they are friendly and attractive people. The radio made me smile with news of a 2 - 0 win for Arsenal. I retired tired at 10pm.

Woke to a sparkling clear morning after an excellent sleep. Breakfast was Tibetan bread with jam and coffee. At the end of the town, the road ends and the trail begins. The first part of this trek was eastwards across rivers flowing north - south. This would mean a lot of up and down trekking as we ascended the valley, descended the other side to river, crossed and ascended again. Only later would we move north towards the Everest Region.

The trails in Nepal have been used for centuries. They are still the highways that link villages. All along the route there were places to drink tea, have a meal and lodges where I could sleep. I could walk at my own pace. Very important for a wimp like myself.

The trail began level then ascended in thick forest. Eventually it emerged into pastureland with lovely views of the Jiri Valley with its copious rice terracing, forests and different coloured houses. Being unfit, I lost my companions as I trailed behind. I didn't mind as I could stop frequently to take photos, drink tea at the tea shops along the trail, play with the children, and joke with the adults. The people (mainly Sherpas, Chhetris, Tamangs, and Newaris) were very friendly. I kept running into a Spanish group. Mainly the trail was quiet. It continued, often steeply, sometimes by a stream.

Tamang woman and child in the Jiri Valley

Finally I reached the top of the ridge at 2400m. After a rest I began descending. It was steep in places, passing water buffalo, goats, houses, tea shops and many porters coming the other way. In much of Nepal everything has to be carried in by porters. I would notice this in the prices of goods: as I got further from the road, prices would rise. I continued down a narrow valley with sheer rock faces breaking up the greenery. We crossed a fast and furious river on a wooden bridge, the first of many. This easterly valley finally met with the Khimti Khola Valley running north - south. I descended and crossed the wide river on a long suspension bridge. On the other side was Shivalaya (1767m), a small settlement.

I joined my companions in a room. I played with the children, had lunch, and relaxed by the river. It rained in the afternoon. It had been tiring ascending and hard on the knees descending. Today it had been a short day but normally it would be six hours of walking every day. Supper was rice, potatoes and teas. It took three hours to prepare on an open wood fire! I spent an hour of that singing songs in the kitchen with the family and went to sleep around 10pm.

I had to go wee wees in the middle of the night. Luckily I had a torch because the toilet was a wooden shack near the river! We awoke at dawn to a clear cold morning. After tea we began the 1000m ascent that we would have to cover that day. The first 350m was steep and tiring. The views back down the valley were superb. I stopped many times for tea, salted peanuts and water. The trail levelled slightly and moved towards the head of a steep forested canyon. The people were Sherpas, Chhetris, Newaris and Rais. The final two hours were very steep and it wore me out. There were steps in places but I had to keep stopping every ten meters. Every time I thought I'd reached the top, there was more. As noon came it clouded over. I hoped it wouldn't rain until I reached shelter and I just made it. I stopped for a lunch of lentils, rice and tea while it poured outside.

The 2705m pass was clouded over so I had no view. When the rain stopped I descended with four Swiss. It was slow and slippery on the wet, broken steps on the trail. After half an hour I descended below cloud level. I could now see the pleasant Likhu Khola Valley. After a few slips I spotted two small stupas (Buddhist shrines). I'd arrived at Bhandar (2194m). This was a small village of white brick Sherpa houses. Again I rejoined my companions in a room for four. I enjoyed a delicious hot shower before exploring.

Stupas at Bhandar

Supper was a lively affair, eaten under a kerosene lamp with an Israeli, an Italian (who was learning English from the Israeli!), a guy from Leeds and an American returning from Everest. I ate soup, momos (Tibetan dumplings) and chapattis with honey. My shoulders ached from the strap of my pack and my thighs ached from the ups and downs. My stomach had been fine: some of my fellow travellers had had tummy problems. I settled down for the night around 8:30.

At 6:30, we were tucking into banana muesli (!). None of us was hungry, but we ate because we had another 1000m ascent and it would be several hours to our lunch stop. The beginning was a pleasant downhill stroll through fields, crossing a stream on a covered wooden bridge. The trail then went through forest. The wide valley converged into a steep rocky canyon. For a while the descent was steep, stony and slippery. The canyon opened out onto a valley and met yet another north - south running valley (the Likhu Khola). After crossing a stream on a wooden plank (!), I stopped for tea. I followed the main river north (passing villages and flowers) crossing on a large suspension bridge while the river raged far below. I was now at 1580m, one of the low points of the trek!

Crossing the Likhu Khola River

The trail continued, rising slowly. I twisted my ankle at one point but I was OK to continue. After an hour, I reached Kenja, a pretty Sherpa village next to a small stream. I had lunch with my three companions, the Israeli, the Italian and the four Swiss. It was an excellent meal of lentils, rice, lots of water and a glass of home brewed cider (this was an apple growing area!).

After a rest, we began the ascent. The first 200m was steep and slow. The views of Kenja and the two rivers meeting were superb. I felt stronger than I'd done on previous ascents. I took it slowly, breathed properly, took frequent rests and drank lots of tea and water. After 300m we hit the clouds so there were no more views. I chatted to local people in broken Hindi / Nepali on the way. The final half hour was tricky as it became steep and stony. My left ankle began to hurt from where I'd twisted it earlier. Suddenly, Sete (2575m), appeared like a ghost out of the mist.

I felt tired so I rested. My ankle was painful when I got up for supper and I hobbled all evening. The lodge was primitive as was the food: pot noodles, chapatti and tea. I rubbed tiger balm into my ankle and it began to feel better. I went to bed early.

Slept well; in the morning my ankle was normal. Breakfast was omelette and roti (bread cooked in a clay oven). We still had 1000m to climb to reach the next pass. The weather was clear giving fine views of the forested valley we were in and Bhandar (yesterday's stop) on the far side of the valley behind us. On the ascent we glimpsed two snow capped peaks (Numbar - 6959m; and Khatang - 6853m). The ascending trail entered moist forest full of chirping insects and birds. Moss hang like hair from the trees. I stopped several times for tea, apple pie and apple juice. It was a long hard climb, steep in parts and going in and out of cloud.

Above the forest, the open spaces were dotted with moss covered rocks. It seemed to take ages to get to the pass because of the many false summits. The last bit kept descending only to commence ascending again. Suddenly I rounded a corner and saw a pile of rocks covered with prayer flags. After six hours, I was on the 3530m Lamjura Pass. Once again, it was shrouded in cloud so there was no view.

I was happy to be descending but it was steep and stony for the first 400m. My knees ached and my right testicle was rubbing painfully on my trousers. It was tiring. I was walking through thick forest. This gave way to pastures and fields. Then I saw the welcome sight of a Sherpa lodge. It was a nice family that ran it and the food was excellent (noodles and apple pie).

I continued along the valley. By now I was walking with legs apart! My pack was cutting through my shoulders again. The trail rose a little, but steeply. I saw Buddhas and Tibetan prayers painted on the rocks in bright colours. Mists swirled around the tops of the mountains giving the scene an eerie look. I turned into a side valley and caught sight of my destination, Junbesi (2675m). It was a pretty village dominated by a Buddhist temple. I was aching all over, tired and not in a good mood. Fell asleep quickly.

Numbur (6959m) overlooks the Sherpa village of Junbesi

I slept soundly till dawn even though there were birds living in the walls of the lodge. I moved to a better lodge and had a day off in Junbesi. The owner of the new lodge had been an English teacher in Kathmandu. This was the only lodge on the trail with an inside toilet. I met a Korean academic and a Norwegian. I wandered around the village exploring the yellow roofed temple. It was a quiet and peaceful place to rest. I showered and washed some clothes before enjoying a Tibetan stew chatting to two Australians. I relaxed all afternoon; my limbs felt better. I watched some locals maintaining part of the trail; others were relaxing in the fields playing with their children.

Slept well till dawn. Breakfast was muesli and coffee. I felt better but I'd lost my hat! The trail descended to the river and crossed. I was joined by a Canadian couple and we promptly took the wrong trail. After a couple of hundred meters a porter corrected us. We ascended through pine forest with fine views of Junbesi across the valley. We turned into another valley (the Ringmo Khola). The trail left the forest and ran exposed along the side of the valley which was mainly grass and flowers. We continued a gentle climb up to about 3000m. Suddenly I turned a corner to be faced by a spectacular panorama of snow capped Himalayan peaks. Everybody had different ideas about what mountains we were seeing but, in fact, none of us knew. Later, I'd get to know the Himalayan peaks by sight.

The trail continued exposed along the valley and I could see our lunch stop on the other side. After an hour the trail began to descend through fragrant pine forest. I descended past several waterfalls, one with its own rainbow, through pasture land, crossing the river on a wooden suspension bridge. There was a steep but short ascent on the other side through forest into open land. The north was dominated by views of the icy peaks of Numbar and Khatang.

Half way up the slope was a large orchard run by an elderly and friendly Sherpa who is proud to mentioned in the guide book. He stood outside his establishment like an English country squire smiling. This was our lunch stop. The apple juice and apple fritters were excellent but the food was nothing special. From here it was a short climb up to the Trakshindo Pass at 3071m. A large chorten (round shrine) marked the spot. For once the views were clear. The rest of the day was spent descending into a side valley.

A chorten marks the 3071m high Trakshindo Pass

A little below the pass was the yellow roofed Trakshindo Monastery with its colourful wall paintings, Tibetan scriptures and giant Buddha. The monks were friendly; some were playing football! It took two hours to reach my night stop from the first moment I saw it. The trail descended along a stony path which became slippery mud. I'd felt good all day up until the final half hour when my knees began to feel the strain. After a descent of 800m I arrived at Nuntala at 2194m. This was a pleasant village perched on the side of the valley. Although mainly Sherpa, I ended up staying with a Magar family. They had rigged up the shower behind the wall where the stove was, thus ensuring very hot water. The family were very lively and noisy until they went to bed. Supper was candle lit. My final climb of the day was up the stair to my room. By 7pm I was fast asleep.

I awoke at 6am while it was getting light. Outside it was crystal clear. To the east was the huge Dudh Khosi river valley whose waters come from the glaciers of Everest. The far wall of the valley was topped with snow capped peaks. I devoured porridge and hot lemon with chapatti and jam for breakfast.

The trail descended slowly through forest and pasture. There were large numbers of colourful butterflies. I saw Chris and Simon excitedly picking what they told me was "grass". Porters passed constantly. I liked the way they would stop and rest by sitting on the T-shaped handle of their walking sticks. After two hours I intersected the wide, fast flowing Dudh Khosi River and its huge valley. I crossed it on a wide suspension bridge at 1500m. This would be the lowest elevation of the trek. My days of easterly trekking had now ended as the trail turned north to follow this valley towards the Himalayas. I stumbled over a landslide and entered pastures above the raging river. I avoided touching the wild Sisnu plants which have a painful sting.

The picturesque Rai village of Jubing

Around noon I arrived at Jubing. This Rai settlement was the most picturesque village on the trail so far. The whole place was covered with flowers and the roofs of the houses were thatched. I sat here for a while sipping lemon juice and slurping delicious vegetable soup. The last part of the day's walking was up into a side valley and over a spur. A pleasant level trail brought me to the Sherpa village of Khari Khola (2072m) set on the slopes of the valley. I shared a lodge with Simon and Chris. After a tomato soup and rice pudding we sat around enjoying the view and watching people passing. It became cloudy later and cooled. Round the back the father of the family was busy making a table from wood. The mother runs the restaurant and shop. Supper was lentils, rice, hot lemon, and chapatti with jam. We all fantasised about fish and chips, kebabs, satay and chicken curry. Outside it rained heavily.

Prices had risen as the trail got further from the road. A soft drink which cost 5 Rupees in Kathmandu and 8 Rupees in Jiri now cost 35 Rupees. Similarly a bottle of mineral water has gone up from 20 to 55 Rupees on the trail.

It was a grey, overcast day. Some of the higher peaks showed evidence of snow. The trail went through the main part of the village past a huge chorten and a checkpoint where my permit was signed. I crossed a side river on a long bridge next to a water wheel. From here it was a steep 300m climb up to Bupsa, a small settlement on a ridge overlooking Khari Khola. There was a small monastery on the top. I had tea here chatting to the elderly, bearded monk, and continued on a steeply climbing trail. I passed through forest and it began to rain lightly. I moved slowly as the trail was slippery. This part of the trail was blasted out of a sheer rock face 1km above the river below. Unfortunately, it was too cloudy to see anything. In fact, this was to be the worst day's walking because it rained most of the day and there was little shelter on this part of the trail.

Monk from monastery at Bupsa

I reached a tea house after an hour and a half where I enjoyed a hot lemon and chatted to two pretty girls, one Sherpa, one Chhetri. The rain got heavier so I wrapped up well and plodded on along slippery and treacherous trails. I reached a ridge at 2900m and turned east into a large side canyon. It was cold, wet and miserable and there was no shelter. On and on I walked past waterfalls, streams, mud, rockslides. After three hours I reached the unfriendly and basic Puiyan on the far side of the canyon. Accommodation here was unheated and no bedding was provided. After a pot noodle soup, the only food available, I decided to move on to my planned night stop which would be more comfortable. I wrapped up well, covering my pack with my plastic raincoat and set off with an American couple.

It turned out to be an easy walk and the clouds cleared to reveal magnificent views of the Dudh Khosi Canyon. The damp had got to my camera battery so I couldn't take too many photos on this day. Glimpses of ice-covered peaks poked through the clouds as we descended carefully to Surkhe at 2339m. I found a comfortable and friendly lodge and ate fried potatoes and chow mein. I took out all my stuff to dry in the room and settled down about 8pm as it began to rain outside. Mice scampered around inside the wooden walls of the lodge while I dozed off.

The night was cold. The midnight trip to the toilet involved a 20m walk down a slippery slope in the dark so I just did it out of the window (!). By morning, my stuff was reasonably dry. I had to change my camera batteries before the camera would work. Outside was a sunny, blue sky day. I left the side valley and began the long two hour 500m ascent to Lukla. This village is famous for an airstrip built by Sir Edmund Hillary (who in 1953 made the first ascent of Everest with Tensing Norgay). I was hoping to fly back to Kathmandu from here in a few weeks. The ascent was steep and involved a stream crossing. While I walked up, three light aircraft and a helicopter landed.

At Lukla I saw more foreigners than I'd seen for the last week. I put my name down on the waiting list for a flight and had lunch (chicken soup, poached egg, hot lemon). I chatted to a group of Westernised Sherpas who'd just completed an expedition to Everest with a group of Japanese and Koreans. They told me they'd made a lot of money and one Korean was missing. I was glad I wouldn't be doing any climbing!

The trail was gentle and slightly downhill. This section of the trek had the most tourists but it was not really a problem as the scenery dwarfs them. I passed over a beautiful fertile area dotted with villages. On the far side of the valley I saw many landslide areas. I could see how difficult it was maintaining trails in these mountains and valleys. As the trail descended, the blue white river ascended to meet it. Ghat (2550m) was a pretty village with a small temple and many waterwheels. Butterflies were plentiful. It was a pleasant day's walk. I chatted to many people from all over the world, and used my pidgin Nepalese on the locals.

Small temple at Ghat

The valley narrowed and the trail clambered over some huge rocks. I arrived in the larger village of Phakding (2652m). I found a nice lodge by a bridge next to a small stream and indulged in apple juice, apple pie and coffee.

In 1989, while in India, I'd met Heather, a lovely Australian lady who travelled with me for a while. When I wrote to her to tell her I was going to Nepal, she gave me a name to contact. The name was that of a young Sherpa called Pemba Rinjee. He had been her guide and she had paid for his schooling. I asked the proprietor of the lodge if he knew where I could find him. He turned out to be Pemba's brother! Pemba was on a trip climbing a 6189m peak with an American. He was actually due to return that evening. He came in later clutching a letter from Heather he'd just picked up in Namche, further up the valley. The letter had told him of my arrival!

Simon and Chris turned up. That night we all sat around the stove with Pemba and his family. We heard their mountaineering stories. Pemba's brother had been on an Everest expedition with Chris Bonnington and had reached 8000m. He'd also worked as a cook in the Indian army. That showed because the food at this lodge was the best yet. I had tomato soup, potatoes with cheese and apple juice. Pemba showed us photos people had sent him after he'd guided them. It was an excellent evening. The trek has not been boring: rain and misery one day, joy and sun the next. And I still hadn't seen Everest!

Days 11 to 20 continued in Part Two.

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